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I asked in the Sticky thread but I'm afraid it won't be seen.
What are the torque requirements for the drain bolt and the transmission pan bolts?

TIA
Drain bolt I used 25ft/lbs..Oil pan bolts (perimeter of pan, 10mm bolt heads) and filter bolts (3-10mm bolt heads) I used 70in/lb.

Remove the frame connector (4-17mm bolts) and do the pan gasket and filter...it is too easy not to do it!:thumbs_up:
 

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Rav4 2.4L I4 has no filter in it.
Yes, it does.

That's a common misconception. The transmission filter is a replaceable media type, NOT a simple screen.
Quoted for truth.

As far as the filter being clogged, although it isn't likely in the OP's case, it's still a good idea to change it once.

Most of the wear material in an AT is generated in the first 10-15,000 miles from new. This material is what the filter is designed to catch. After that initial time, there's very little for it to do, so changing it beyond the first time is unnecessary, unless the transmission is being repaired for a failure or the fluid has become contaminated. Routine servicing of the filter is not needed.

The ideal service for a transmission is to drop the pan after about 15,000 miles and install a new filter. Do a simple drain & fill every 30,000 miles after that and your transmission will last as long as it ever will.

If you inherit a vehicle with an unknown maintenance history, changing the filter along with a complete fluid exchange is a good idea...simple drain & fills will suffice thereafter.
 

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A few suggestions for those attempting to do a transmission flush.....

1. Buy a few of those extra under body panel fasteners. I think there were 8 of them, and I broke all but two. The plastic disintegrated no mater how gentle I was with them.

2. The lower hose that enters the V6 Auto Trans from the front of the vehicle (radiator) is the return line. Disconnect hose where it connects to the pan, insert a metal connector into ruber hose of approximately 3/8's size, then attach a rubber hose to other end of connector. Pump into clear jug.

3. I'd replace the V6 Auto Transmission filter. I was actually surprised at how much fine metal silt was stuck on those magnets and the drain plug. When I did this on my Tundra with twice as many miles, there was far far less - not even comparable.

4. Use Blue Locktite for the Auto Trans Pan bolts.

5. As previously stated, disconnect the body frame mount support for accessing all of the auto transmission pan bolts (4 17mm).

6. Always check the trans fluid level when the vehicle is running.

While you've got it all apart, might as well change the front and rear differential oil. That was a far easier job. Always make sure the filler bolt is loosened first (#10 Allen on all of them). Then remove drain bolt. Drain. Clean drain bolt magnet. Reinstall drain bolt. Pump in new fluid, and install filler bolt. I drove the Rav onto some boards so it was level and I could crawl underneath to access. This is more important for when you fill it as you don't want to overfill. Both front and rear take approximately half quart on a 2012 V6 4WD model.

Most of all this information can be found in this thread and the other big one that's at least 11 pages long, but the one piece I couldn't find anywhere was which hose on the V6 auto trans was the return line. I hope this helps someone tackle the flush versus doing the fluid dilution method.
 

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Where is the best buy on steel mesh filter for 2007 V6?
You can buy the filter at Rockauto or Amazon. I don't think it is a steel mesh but a fiber filter. That is how mine is and every filter I seen for the V6 and 4 banger.

The filter is for bigger pieces of metal. I have an inline filter (Magnafine) for finer metals which has a power magnet.
 
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