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According to my Toyota diagnostic manual, DTC P1349 refers to "VVT System Malfunction", which means there is a problem with the variable valve timing system. This code can mean a lot of things, it could be caused by a foreign object in the engine oil jamming up the VVT control valve, or the intake cam timing coming out of spec. A bad cam sprocket could cause the timing to go out, so it sounds like you dealer is on the right track. If they do replace the cam sprocket it should be covered under warranty, however you made need to pay a deductible.
 

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nomoretoy said:
I had look at my UK spec manaul, it does not say anything about fuel cap sensor. I don't think there is such a thing on RAV??
It's not a "fuel cap sensor" that causes this problem. It's a pollution control sensor. If the cap is loose, a pollution control sensor kicks in, thinking their is a leak in the evap system. :roll:
 

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Yes that's how it works, although it isn't as sensitive as the dealer would lead you to believe. The ECU keeps track of the EVAP system over time, and if the tank pressure is consistently low or high then it triggers the DTC. You would have to leave you gas cap loose a number of times in a row for it to trigger the DTC, at least that's my experience.

I just hate whenever I call the dealer and make an appointment to fix a problem, the girl who answers the phone says "did you check your gas cap?". I usually respond by say something like "that's on the tire, right?". I guess the reason why they ask this question is that the must have a lot of people who don't tighten their gas caps. How hard is it to do? I mean today it's all but foolproof, you turn the cap until it clicks a few times.
 

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I have a great story that some of you may have read on the old R4W site.

I used to drive a 1999 VW New Beetle (before I got my Rav, long story) which I had picked up new in the spring of 1999. Not the greatest purchase decision in the world, but it was cool at the time. Anyway, a few months after I got the car, I was maneuvering in my friend's driveway, and managed to scrape the lower part of the rear bumper on a rock wall. This was going at less than 1 mph, and it was a scrape about 2" long near the passenger-side reverse light at the bottom of the bumper. I freaked out initially, but since it was not very noticeable I put off fixing it since I figured I would scrape the bumper again. The car was a PITA to back up since it had bad visibility through the rear windows.

Fast forward almost a year, to the spring of 2000. I was driving home one night, and the check engine light came on. Took the car to the dealer a few days later, and they told me the EVAP canister was broken and needed to be replaced. Well on the NB the EVAP canister is located somewhere near the rear bumper, coincidentally close to where I had scraped the bumper. Of course the VW dealer told me that since there was a scrape on the bumper, the EVAP canister was damaged as a result of an accident, and the warranty wouldn't cover it. So I would be responsible for the $600 it costs to replace the unit. After having a heated debate with the service manager, I had them replace the EVAP canister and paid the $600, deciding I could just take up the warranty issue with the VW corporate office. Keep in mind the EVAP canister went bad almost a year after I had scraped up the bumper, so I thought there was no way in hell that they were related. My uncle is a lawyer, and after weeks of dealing with VW, and threatening a lawsuit, they reimbursed me for the cost of the repairs.

Of course this was not the one and only issue I had with my VW, and after a few more years of ownership and various expensive repairs I decided never to purchase a VW again. In 2002 the car hit some black ice and went off the road, spun around, collided with a few roadside objects, and landed in a snow bank. The only good thing about that car was that I walked away from the accident with only a scratch. Some of you may think the Rav has issues, well let me tell you the recent VW models are far worse.
 
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Discussion Starter #45
OMG! I can vouch for the VW thing. I had an '02 GTI that I really liked except the car totally disintegrated on me. It lasted a whole year and a half and 35k before I gladly got rid of it.

The problems with the RAV are NOTHING.


jerij
 
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Discussion Starter #46
Well I got my first CEL on my new RAV (less than 1K miles). The VSC/TRAC light also came on. Called the dealer and he blew it off as the whole gas cap thing. I asked, but what about the VSC/TRAC light and he says they can come on at the same time (meaning they are related). What do you guys think? Is it common or should I try another dealer? (I'm usually real good about tightening the gas cap til I hear a bunch of clicks, so I'm leary about it, but maybe it is?)
 
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Discussion Starter #47
If it is a pollution control sensor, has anyone had it replaced when the engine light came on? Where is this sensor located? What if this sensor is bad and not the cat. converter? Wrong message?
In todays modern world, we are becoming too reliant on what a computer is telling us. What if the computer is wrong and giving the wrong error message? How can you fix a problem if the info is incorrect? My Rav does not have any symptoms to support the diagnosis of the engine light. Just another thought,
 

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I had the Cats and O2s replaced and that did it

I finally had the nerve to call the purchase dealer and told them that the MIL light and codes P0420 + P0430 were in the OBDII and I had an independent emissions place verify that the cats were likely clogged. I flat out told them they had to replace the Cats and O2s and they tried to say that they had to verify it before they could proceed, but they did and 4 hours and several engine studs later they managed to replace all the parts. They said something crazy about the car had to have California emmisions to be covered by waranty, but they never asked me to pay when they were done - the final mileage was 57,500 miles - the mileage where the problems started (MIL came on) was 54,000. And I had noticed that the gas mileage had started to drop off from the 25MPG I was getting last summer to about 16MPG just before the work was done. I have only driven 50 miles since the work so I will have to post that after I have more data.
 

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25 mpg down to 16 mpg is a really noticeable decline! :eek: :shock: I didn't see any drop in gas mileage until after the converter and sensors were replaced, and that was a drop of about 1 mpg, not 9 mpg!
 
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Discussion Starter #50
Just a thought on the fuel cap sensor..........

It seems that most of the problem has ben reproted from the US/Canada. Is it something common there, i.e. the way you refuel. Do you guys have the fuel fill up by the garage attendent and still left your ignition key turned on or have the engine running.

If you guys refilling the fuel like the way I described above, it means that there is a possiblility that the computer is still switched on and is in the sniffing mode, i.e. sensing for any fuel evaporated due to a loose fuel cap.

In UK, in order to refuel, wer have to switch off the car and refule ourselfs. There is no such thing as garage attendant. This means the computer or sensor is not switched on. By the time we pay up the fuel and return to the car and start the engine, the fuel vapor is settled and minimising the risk of false triggering the fuel cap sensor.

If this is the root cause, then you guys have to get off your back and fill up yourself! Teaches you being lazy..............
 

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I always pump my own gas, and shut the engine off all they way, usually taking the key out with me, and I still had the emissions problem. On the occasions that I did leave the engine running while filling the tank, or drove away without putting the gas cap on, I did not have any problems.
 

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Probably 99%+ of the gas stations here in California don't even offer a service option anymore. It's ALL self-service. So, it's not likely that we'd leave the key in the ignition and leave the the door openwhile we fill the tank with petrol. I've never had anyone else fill my tank, and I got the infamous gas cap off MIL once. :roll:
 
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Thermostat

Hello everyone,
I just left my 2003 RAV4 at the dealer. $175 for replacing the thermostat. My check engine light went off and the heat gauge was very low or maybe not functioning. I wonder if I could have replaced the thermostat myself.
Happy driving:)
 

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Re: Just a thought on the fuel cap sensor..........

nomoretoy said:
It seems that most of the problem has ben reproted from the US/Canada. Is it something common there, i.e. the way you refuel. Do you guys have the fuel fill up by the garage attendent and still left your ignition key turned on or have the engine running.

If you guys refilling the fuel like the way I described above, it means that there is a possiblility that the computer is still switched on and is in the sniffing mode, i.e. sensing for any fuel evaporated due to a loose fuel cap.

In UK, in order to refuel, wer have to switch off the car and refule ourselfs. There is no such thing as garage attendant. This means the computer or sensor is not switched on. By the time we pay up the fuel and return to the car and start the engine, the fuel vapor is settled and minimising the risk of false triggering the fuel cap sensor.

If this is the root cause, then you guys have to get off your back and fill up yourself! Teaches you being lazy..............
I don't know too many living people that leave their ingnition turned on when filling up, but I do know many people who overfill their tank by filing it up to the top of the filler neck, and this ruins the charcoal canister which probably would lead to all these other problems.
 
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Discussion Starter #55
It's not just a US/Canada thing. My 04's light came on about six weeks ago at 7,500 miles and I took it straight to the dealer. Trouble is when we started the car to do the diagnostic there was no light on and no fault stored in the computer.

It came on at the beginning of the week again and I took it straight to the dealer and left the engine running this time. Turned out it was the oxygen sensor. Replaced on Saturday under warranty and the Rav is running sweet again. When it comes on, the Rav goes into failsafe mode, which meant reduced engine output.
 
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Discussion Starter #56
I finally was able to get to the dealer today after having my light come on again. Even though I had over 36,000 miles it was still under waranty. It was the polution sensor, they updated my computer and I was on my way without having to pay anything. The TSB said it was under waranty for 80,000 miles.
 
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Just spent two hours waiting while my catalytic converter was replaced since that was diagnosed as the problem cuasing the check engine light to come on. The good news was I only had to pay labor. the bad news is that the check engine light came back on less than an hour after leaving the garage. I called to see when I could come back in, but had to tell them I'd call back when I was in a better mood when the guy insisted I had to come in during the weekday (as in I would be having to take time off work...again) instead of during a weeknight or Saturday.

I'm thinking there needs to be fields for what stuff you've had to get fixed (Dash Rattle, Check Engine Light, Brake Groaning, etc) for the 4.2 in the account profiles like there's fields for modifications.
 

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It seems that most of the problem has ben reproted from the US/Canada. Is it something common there, i.e. the way you refuel. Do you guys have the fuel fill up by the garage attendent and still left your ignition key turned on or have the engine running.
In the 6 years that I have been living in the US, in CA, I've never seen anyone pumping gas with the engine on or an attendant. In every gas station that I've gone they have signs that warn people to turn their engines off. Isn't leaving the engine on illegal in CA? :? :?:
 
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Discussion Starter #59
Hi, I am new here and I am just trying to find a solution to the same problem that most of you seem to be having for my 2002 RAV4. At around 51000 miles, my check engine light came on for the second time (the first time was to reset the computer) and it seems to be because of the O2 sensors and the Catalytic Converter caused by emission problems, as said by the dealership anyway.

I would really like to have this problem fixed, but the price they gave me was the kind of money I do not have laying around. It came to approximately $1500 with labor charges included, but they were "kind" enough to give us a discount to $1000 flat. The parts, they said, is under warranty, but $1000 is still far too much for me to afford.

I was wondering if there were another way around it, maybe buying the parts of a better brand (since I see that replacing it from the dealership has caused some to lose MPG for their vehicle) and installing it elsewhere.

I'm already going to check out places of local repair shops that I know of and have seen the prices of some converters and sensors so I have an idea of the price range just too bad that they dont have any for years 2001+. Any additional information would be helpful.

Thank you. ^^

- Also, I probably should have this post under section, but it didn't seem relevant to me anywhere else but here since it's a problem and not an addition.
 

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KunoMochi:
Try taking your RAV to a different dealership. Emissions problems should be taken care of under the emissions warranty, some of which lasts until about 80k miles, if I recall correctly. Check your manual for the exact mileage. And you shouldn't be paying $$$$ to fix it on a car that young.
 
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