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Hey everyone,

Ok, I just bought my Rav about 2 weeks ago, no problems at all ... and it still drives great, but, at 41,000 miles, the check engine light just came on. Basically, I want to know if anyone thinks that anything regarding the wiring in the rear, passenger side door would trigger the check engine light if some of the wires were to short out and cause the 30a fuse for the power window system to blow.

Alright, I'll explain ... I wasn't thinking while drilling holes for my speaker brackets, drilled through the wires in the door, didn't know it, put a screw in, heard a spark, windows died, replaced the fuse, everything was fine with NO check engine light on. I did go through and re-tape all the wires; nothing was broken, I just cut the insulation a little ... ouch ... but everything seems to be fine.

Today, I took a drive to RI from NH ... about 90 miles each way ... no issues with the check engine light until I stopped at a rest area on the way home, after driving at 75ish mph for 70 miles or so. I noticed when I got home that the check engine light was on, I didn't notice it until I was 10 from the restarea.

The changes I've made since I bought the car are: install of 50w x 4 DVD player head deck, 300w RMS amp, and speakers ... on the way home I was also using a 90w power adaptor for a laptop and charging my phone ...

If you've read this far, I'll just summarize ... I don't know if maybe I'm pulling alot of power from everything I was using, maybe drilling through the wires messed up something else, but the fuse was blown so that should have saved anything else from getting harmed, or maybe it just happened that out of coincidence, at 41k miles, the check engine light went on because of another issue.

I will check the gas cap, and I"ll try resetting the fuses to get the light off and see if it comes back. I have to have the dealership I bought it from check the brakes, I'll probably mention the light to them ... I just bought it, I shouldn't have any problems!
THANK YOU so much,
- Bryan
 

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Go to AutoZone and have them read the code off the ECU. The check engine light only relates to the engine and emissions system, so a problem with the wiring should not cause it to go on. That being said, the short could have caused a power surge and screwed up the ECU. I have done lots of wiring work on my 2001 and shorted a few wires here and there, but never had any problems with the check engine light, other than the common emissions issue.

BTW, what dealer in NH did you purchase it from?
 
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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, good to know about the check engine light being related to the engine & ECU ... I'm hoping its just a temporary glitch, maybe the short caused something to give off an error code, but I'd imagine that if that was the case, then it should have been instant ... the check engine light came on 8-10 hours later ... We'll find out from Autozone though!!!
Do you know if you have to make an appointment for it, or can you drive right up and have them do it?

I bought the car at Team Nissan in Manch-vegas ... it was used (obviously), 1 owner, excellent shape ... 40k miles ... and it wasn't from Autofair who tried to rip me off on my last car purchase from them.

Where u at in NH? Manch-vegas here ....

Thanks for the info
 

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I'm in Durham, I went to Keene when I was an undergrad.

I bought mine used a few years ago when I was living in NY. Now I take it to Toyota of Portsmouth, which seems to be pretty good, although my Rav doesn't see the dealer often because I do most all of the work myself.
 
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Well, I decided to do a couple things ... I bought my own code reader on e-bay ... just the module, no cables, it connects to the PC, and uses some free software they listed online ... only $35 with shipping, and then about $15+ for the cables ... SWEET! It'll come in handy when I move to Aspen, CO - no dealerships around ...

I also removed the fuses related to the ECU & EFI ... and promptly put them back in ... it did reset the light. What I figure now is that if there really is a PROBLEM, then the light should be retriggered, right? If there is no true problem, it'll come back on ... the one thing I don't know is how long a problem code takes to be picked up by the ECU. I already took it out and drove around for a bit, a couple times, and no more light ... Is this the right line of thinking when referring to a car's ECU?
 
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BryanNH said:
Well, I decided to do a couple things ... I bought my own code reader on e-bay ... just the module, no cables, it connects to the PC, and uses some free software they listed online ... only $35 with shipping, and then about $15+ for the cables ... SWEET! It'll come in handy when I move to Aspen, CO - no dealerships around ...

I also removed the fuses related to the ECU & EFI ... and promptly put them back in ... it did reset the light. What I figure now is that if there really is a PROBLEM, then the light should be retriggered, right? If there is no true problem, it'll come back on ... the one thing I don't know is how long a problem code takes to be picked up by the ECU. I already took it out and drove around for a bit, a couple times, and no more light ... Is this the right line of thinking when referring to a car's ECU?
you did the right thing, if there is an issue the light will return, if not dont worry and keep driving
 

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I think the error code needs to appear 3 times before it triggers the check engine light, or something like that. So if you scan the OBD port you may pick up an error code or two before the check engine light even goes on.
 
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THats what I thought I read somewhere else, that the code has to be picked up 3 or 4 times before it triggers the check engine light ... I'll be getting my own OBDII port reader this week, I'll be scanning to see what I can do with it ... and who knows, maybe it'll be clean & clear, maybe there'll be a code. The light has been off so far, so I'm hoping I'm ok!!!! It seems to drive fine, and I was really pushing it today, too ... great pick up for a 148hp 4x4 car!!!
Anyways, I'll let ya'll know how my $45 OBDII scanner works out when I get it, thanks for the info ...

- Bryan
 

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I want to find an OBD tool that allows me to connect my laptop to the car and monitor things in real time, but I guess those are expensive.
 
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Its not expensive ... or so I hope in the long run!
Mine was $35 with shipping, then I'll have to buy a cable which I can get for $10 - $20 in a store, or cheaper online ... the software for it is freeeeeeeeeeeee online, see below.
I'll let you know how mine works.
Here's the link to the e-bay listing for the one I'm buying (let me knwo if the link is bad):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=43989&item=4554573912&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Here's the info for the one I'm buying ...
www.ScanTool.net OBD-II Software is a free program that allows you to use your PC to get the information from your car's computer (ECU).
The program is very user-friendly, and easy to learn. It is also very easy to install. The software supports two platforms - DOS and Windows.
Features Include :
Read diagnostic trouble codes, both generic and manufacturer-specific, and display their meaning (over 3000 generic code definitions)
Clear trouble codes and turn off the MIL ("Check Engine" light)
Display current sensor data, including
Engine RPM
Engine Load
Coolant Temperature
Fuel System Status
Vehicle Speed
Fuel Trim
Intake Manifold Pressure
Timing Advance
Intake Air Temperature
Air Flow Rate
Absolute Throttle Position
Oxygen sensor voltages
Fuel Pressure
Many others...
NOTE: The free software is NOT included with the adapters! It MUST be downloaded from the ScanTool.net site.
You must also have (or purchase) a DB9-F to DB9-F Null Modem Cable. They are available just about anywhere - Best Buy,
CompUSA, TigerDirect has them for $9.99 Item #: C184-03046
... or SFCable for $2.04 at
http://www.sfcable.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=NU33-06
 
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Discussion Starter #11
MY rav4 is a locally introduced model here in the Philippines... am curious where is the OBD2 port located and can anyone show me or email me a pic of the OBD2 port of the 2001 rav4? email's [email protected] thanks!
 
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I don't have a picture of it, but on the american models, it is just to the right of the change holder down by the driver's knee ... behind the holder is the fuse panel, so to the right of the fuse panel inside the car. Hope this helps!!!
 
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Wow.... problem is... here in the philippines is that... Toyota charges a big amount for just having ur codes read... its around 1500php(26usd)... while other shops charges 1000 php... it made me have second thoughts if i'm going to buy an OBD2 error code reader. Anyway thanks...
 
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Discussion Starter #16
Another question... Are the ports of the OBD OBD2 port reader generic? or its vehicle/car make specific?
 
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I'm not sure if the OBD & OBD2 ports are the same or different, but I know that the rav4 supports OBD2, so if you get a reader, check out an OBD2 reader only.
I bought one through eBay for $29us + $6us shipping. I also had to purchase a cable, a null modem cable, from another site. It was only $2 for the cable, but the site had a $10 minimum on ordering. Anyways though, it is possible to find a cheap setup for the OBD2 reader for the car.
So its only approx $26us for the read from the dealership? In the US its about $80!!!!!
 

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Bryan,
since you bought the car 2 weeks ago, is there any chance you could take it back to the dealer & have them fix it?
Down here in MA you can't get an inspection sticker if the light's on.
LOL,
Jim
 
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I worked around it :wink: !
I removed the fuse for the ECU for a couple seconds, put it back in, the light was then off and never came back on. I figured that if it was a problem, the light would come back on, and it hasn't ... so there's no problems being reported.

I did purchase a code reader online for my PC from eBay so if it happens again I can see what the problem is ... and then bring it to a dealership if I need to.

I'm not sure how NH is now as far as having the check engine light on ... I know they are doing emissions tests now, too, but I don't know if they don't pass you if the light is on ...

From what I've read, the ECU will check the codes several times before turning the light on again, so, after 3 or 4 checks, if there's no error, or if the error is only reported for 2 or 3 out of the 3 or 4 checks, then the light will not return. I did check the ECU for codes with the OBD2 port scanner and it returned zero code .. removing the fuse did infact clear it out.

- Bryan
 

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mikelsy said:
Wow.... problem is... here in the philippines is that... Toyota charges a big amount for just having ur codes read... its around 1500php(26usd)... while other shops charges 1000 php... it made me have second thoughts if i'm going to buy an OBD2 error code reader. Anyway thanks...
Get yourself an OBDII scan tool, regardless where, just get one. The dealers charge a fortune just to "diagnose" the CEL. If you have your own scan tool, it will pay for itself in very short time.
 
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