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I've had this problem, intermittent, for 2 years. In CA and smog was due. Everything I've read said it needed new O2 sensors....it didn't read on. I bought a new gas cap, that wasn't it. I bought new o2 sensors But didn't install them....I bought MAF cleaner and used it. A fill up, 5 stops, 200 miles, lights all went off and it passed smog this morning with 238k miles. The MAF was just 2 screws and a little clip, sprayed it with the cleaner and it's all good. There's probably youtube videos. I'm in no way a mechanic, the neighbors looked at me weird cause I had the hood up. It has solved my check engine 4wd traction control light problem....and it cost $9.30, the gas cap was more and probably not necessary. It's been a problem for 2 years driving long distances without cruise control sucks and winter driving with no 4wd. It seems to be fixed with a very simple solution.
 

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Hey everyone -- tried reading through all 30 pages but there's so much info on here its kind of like info overload -- I'm going to post a brief overview of my issue in the hopes that someone might be able to steer me in the right direction to help me get my 09 rav4 v6 sport 4wd back into tip top shape!

Had 4WD light come on after a frontal collision, but took it to mechanic on Long Island, who said it was a fuse. Didn't come back on. Starting maybe last May or so, I had my VSC, 4WD and CEL lights come on intermittently - not sure if related to first 4wd problem or not - (they'd show up sometimes and id turn car on and they were gone. Then they were gone for a few weeks, and i drove the car to Florida for a move, til they wound up staying on). Last July (July 2017), I replaced gas cap (albeit with a non OEM one from advance auto). Didn't fix issue. I don't remember the codes that were showing at the time but there were evap codes, and the mechanic said it was my VVT timing solenoids from bank 1 and 2. Had those replaced for $194 each plus labor for a grand total of $1100. Lights went off for a good 8 months and car seemed fine.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago - lights came back on again but car appears to drive fine - no roughness or anything indicating anything seriously wrong. Mechanic replaced the solenoids just a few weeks ago free of charge again b/c parts were under warranty and he didn't charge for labor. Two weeks later, the lights come back on again. They're on right now. Took to mechanic this morning, and he said that I have the following codes:

P0456 - evap leak small - said its from possible fuel cap (Should i replace with OEM even though i replaced orig. one already a year ago?)
C1201 - possible air fuel ratio sensor
C1280/82 - differential: active torque control 4wd system - engine circuit malfuntion (mech said its not actually 4wd, maybe throttle position sensor/throttle position sensor wire harness and connector/CAN communication system)

At this point in time, the mechanic cleared the codes and said to bring it back if they come back so the tech can actually look into them more in-depth - right now they just read the codes. Any advice on what I should do next? I'm getting frustrated with all of this, but am not sure if I should try to fix these issues or trade it in (apparently I also need a new oil pan soon, too so the expenses are just adding up). Any help is much appreciated!
 

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Long time lurker, created an account just for this dreaded combo. Read through nearly all the threads here looking for something similar, but sadly came up blank. I've got an '08 Limited v6, 2WD w/ 73K miles (I'll get this added to my sig soon).

I'm getting the trifecta CEL, TRAC, VSC. Hooked up a scanner and it through a P0300. The funny part is that no other code flipped, and nothing was stored in permanent.

My struts and shocks are in need of replacement (I bought a set from Rock Auto -- will be installing once I clear this darn code), and I threw the code after about 2 hours of highway driving. It makes me wonder if it knocked a hose or connector loose? I don't recall the ride being particularly bumpy or running over any kind of debris - so I'm skeptical of my own idea.

I've captured the freeze frame data and will clear the code today and see what trips it again. I'm not noticing anything from power loss through any of the gears, nor anything during breaking (but my ABS is off, and no codes, so this makes sense).

The only symptom my novice eyes notice is that idle seems ever so slightly rough. I'll do a live scan with my OBD2 once I clear the code to see what the idle RPMs and range are. I'm not throwing any fuel sensor codes, again just the P0300 and nothing else, so I don't think it's running too lean.

Anybody have this combo? The lack of other codes make me think this thing is running really nice. I got my first P0300 on a free scan from AutoZone, and they recommended an Air Intake Manifold gasket. I see no carbon anywhere near the header, and when I took off the air box to start going after the manifold, I didn't see any dirt or carbon scoring anywhere around the air throttle body -- so I'm starting to think the gasket is fine. I'd really rather not take off the manifold.

Any ideas? Should I just go down a generic P0300 diagnostic tree? I'm hoping that somebody here has had a similar thing and found a vacuum hose in some dark corner that needed to be reclipped, one that I've just missed somehow.
 

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Discussion Starter #307
I've got the same RAV, just rolled over to 60,000 miles.

So, according to the service manual, a P0300 is:

Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Some causes may be:

1. Open or short in engine wire harness
2. Connector connection
3. Vacuum hose connection
4. Ignition system
5. Injector
6. Fuel pressure
7. MAF meter
8. ECT sensor
9. Compression pressure
10. Valve clearance
11. Valve timing
12. PCV valve and hose
13. PCV hose connections
14. Air induction system
15. ECM
 

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Thanks, JuneBug! Would you recommend just going down the list and researching the diagnostics for each? I am humbly a pretty novice wrench turner w/ an eagerness to learn. Would it be possible to use an OBD2 to rule out any of the above w/ live data or freeze frame data?
 

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I've got the same RAV, just rolled over to 60,000 miles.

So, according to the service manual, a P0300 is:

Random / Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected

Some causes may be:

1. Open or short in engine wire harness
2. Connector connection
3. Vacuum hose connection
4. Ignition system
5. Injector
6. Fuel pressure
7. MAF meter
8. ECT sensor
9. Compression pressure
10. Valve clearance
11. Valve timing
12. PCV valve and hose
13. PCV hose connections
14. Air induction system
15. ECM
wow, looks like a Santa's christmas list who is naughty or nice.

My research for P0300 is to use the manufactures ODBII Mode 6 Data diagnostics,
all scanners have these features, just seems complex with all those $ signs and other extra letters:confused:

so this may help your troubles.......>

http://alflash.com.ua/OBDII/PIDs.pdf

this guy explains it all and can fix any automotive problem, the best i've seen.

 

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Thanks, Myrav. The list of potential wrongs is daunting, hence why I'm hoping there is some way to whittle it down. Thanks for sending over hte Mode 6 stuff. I'll check that out. I've been on the South Main YT page many times. His Rav4 strut video is what got me more comfortable turning a wrench.

Funny thing too is that on the live data stream, when I look for misfires in the cylinder, my scanner shows 7cnt misfires on the general, and then each individual cylinder has 0cnt misfires. Hoping this points to an 02, MAF, or A/F sensor. Still gotta do my vacuum test too.
 

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Discussion Starter #311

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New here, have an 06 Sport 4-cyl with 110k.

Been having this issue on & off. It was fixed before with a new gas cap. Recently, it has stuck around longer than wanted.

Had car serviced a couple of months ago and my Mech said needed an O2 sensor. We did just that. Went away for a little while then it came back. Having the lights on never really hindered performance. Car runs fine although engine sounds louder.

About a month ago, car died and needed an alternator. Replaced that, reset codes, and sure enough CEL/4WD/VSC lights came up a few days later.

Oddly, I noticed the lights to go away when it got really warm around here. Before the alternator swap, it got to over 100 degrees. The lights went away and came back again later on.

Any suggestions on what could be wrong with this? Not really that handy and I don’t want to be shelling off $$$ for something that could be easily fixed.
 

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i have the same issue right now on my 06 rav4 base v6, is it possible that i just have a bad spark plug and thats why i am getting this code?
 

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One of two things I can think of... Maybe a bad head gasket or an 02 sensor needs an 02 sensor spacing kit.

Sent from my SM-S327VL using Tapatalk
 

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Looking at purchasing a 2011. Scanned it and the only code it throws is a C1201. All of the research shows that this is usually paired with other codes. Any thoughts? It does have an aftermarket stereo (Pioneer) and speakers. TIA!
 

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Ohms Resistance For Rav4 ABS Sensors

VSC + ABS + 4x4 lights are on.
What should the Ohms be for a Rav4 ABS Sensor?
I tried to check Resistance for one of the front sensors, but the lower ranges suggested by another site (700-1300) just showed open ‘1’ on the multi-meter.
Pulled this same sensor and it was clean with only a trace of dust.
Tried to clear lights several times with the 4/13 jumper and x8+ brake pumps, but lights stayed on.
Parts store code reader said Both Front ABS sensors are bad, and techstream says the same thing.
With both front sensors showing bad, I’m thinking likely something more systemic.
Any ideas?

Searched this thread for Ohm, Ohms, & Resistance
07 v6 4x4 Sport
Front tires easily spin and show much more wear.
 

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Also, checked all fuses under hood and under the dash next to OBDII port.
The cover plate for the under dash fuses shows x3 30 Amp fuses that are not with all the other smaller fuses. Anyone know where these x3 30 Amp fuses are?

Also, just checked with Techstream again after pulling the ABS sensor on the front left and giving it a gentle wipe with a cloth -- sprayed some carb clearer on the cloth (not on the sensor). And now only the front right shows an error. The only other thing I did with the front left is disconnect / reconnect its 2 wire connector for checking the resistance. Will do the same for the front right and report back.
 

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Discussion Starter #319
Also, checked all fuses under hood and under the dash next to OBDII port.
The cover plate for the under dash fuses shows x3 30 Amp fuses that are not with all the other smaller fuses. Anyone know where these x3 30 Amp fuses are?
Yes, they are in the panel just to the left of the steering column. In the picture, you can see 2 of these fuses above the pink relay:

 

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My Toyota dealer just told me I have diagnostic code P2770. On page one of this thread is a link to a "comprehensive" list of all possible "P" codes, but P2770 is not listed. Is my dealer scamming me? He says my torque converter solenoid has failed, but also says the wiring shows indications of shorting/damage. Could my problem be nothing more than wiring damage?
 
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