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So I changed out sensor 1 ,spark plugs,gas cap and the alarm for sensor 2 is still there. Will it take time for the computer to reset or could the computer have a issue


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It may eventually re-set on its own. You could try lifting the battery negative lead for a minute and re-connecting. I have had to change both my sensors. I had a code for the downstream and replaced it (2nd time). That did not clear the code. Then I replaced the upstream A/F sensor and that cleared the downstream code. Not sure what was going on, but finally that took care of the problem. Hopefully that will do the same in your case.
 

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I can't find any document that tells me what O2 sensor to purchase. I do have all 3 lights on and my reader says it's Bank1, Sensor2. Ok, now to tell Amazon/Denso that. Denso's are sold as Downstream Left or Right and they are different part numbers. I read that left or right is when your sitting in the driver's seat, I assume this is for all vehicles on the planet. I found an engine image thanks to my mechanic and it shows the sensors only as Bank 1 or 2. I see my desired sensor in what appears to be the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter but it looks very close to the center of the vehicle so I would be guessing if it's left or right. Is there any link that shows me an image of all this and confirms that I need to purchase Downstream left sensor - Denso 234-4261?


I also found that an NGK 24844 is what I want. I also found a pdf cross reference for Denso to others but NGK is not in the pdf. Only NTK is there but NTK 24844 is not listed either.
 

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I can't find any document that tells me what O2 sensor to purchase. I do have all 3 lights on and my reader says it's Bank1, Sensor2. Ok, now to tell Amazon/Denso that. Denso's are sold as Downstream Left or Right and they are different part numbers. I read that left or right is when your sitting in the driver's seat, I assume this is for all vehicles on the planet. I found an engine image thanks to my mechanic and it shows the sensors only as Bank 1 or 2. I see my desired sensor in what appears to be the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter but it looks very close to the center of the vehicle so I would be guessing if it's left or right. Is there any link that shows me an image of all this and confirms that I need to purchase Downstream left sensor - Denso 234-4261?


I also found that an NGK 24844 is what I want. I also found a pdf cross reference for Denso to others but NGK is not in the pdf. Only NTK is there but NTK 24844 is not listed either.
Do you have v6? Get the DENSO. It's the OEM

https://www.rav4world.com/forums/106-4-3-tsbs/79489-t-sb-0398-09-engine-bank-1-2-f-o2-identification-12-23-09-a.html#/topics/279666
 

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I can't find any document that tells me what O2 sensor to purchase. I do have all 3 lights on and my reader says it's Bank1, Sensor2. Ok, now to tell Amazon/Denso that. Denso's are sold as Downstream Left or Right and they are different part numbers. I read that left or right is when your sitting in the driver's seat, I assume this is for all vehicles on the planet. I found an engine image thanks to my mechanic and it shows the sensors only as Bank 1 or 2. I see my desired sensor in what appears to be the exhaust pipe after the catalytic converter but it looks very close to the center of the vehicle so I would be guessing if it's left or right. Is there any link that shows me an image of all this and confirms that I need to purchase Downstream left sensor - Denso 234-4261?


I also found that an NGK 24844 is what I want. I also found a pdf cross reference for Denso to others but NGK is not in the pdf. Only NTK is there but NTK 24844 is not listed either.
I found this when mine went out. Hope it helps
 

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My 2007 rav4 V6 LTD 3.5L 4wd had a collision where the right corner below the headlight was hit by smaller car. It didn't seem to have much damage apart from the bumper cover getting a dent and a couple of tears, one of them larger squarish flap. I took off the front bumper, grill and all one piece, straightened with hot water and patched it up with hot glue and paint and put it back on. While no lights came on when I drove it back home after the collision, they came on when I drove it after the said repair. Now I have the
windshield fluid lights,
check engine, VSC, and 4WD lights on, they came on roughly in that order, starting with the windshield liquid light. I checked the reservoir by pouring water and it came down from the other end. Not sure if the reservoir is damaged or any of the connecting pipes has been dislodged (the feeding pipe appears to be fine). Anyhow, I got OBD2 scanning done at autozone several times and no reading comes up. What should I make of that. They were checking other vehicles with the same scanner successfully before and after trying to read mine. Any ideas why?
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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Anyhow, I got OBD2 scanning done at autozone several times and no reading comes up. What should I make of that. They were checking other vehicles with the same scanner successfully before and after trying to read mine. Any ideas why?
Yes, they were using a cheap scan tool that only reads engine trouble codes. What you have is an ABS code. Did you try to read it by using the jumper method as described at the beginning of this thread?
 

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Yes, they were using a cheap scan tool that only reads engine trouble codes. What you have is an ABS code. Did you try to read it by using the jumper method as described at the beginning of this thread?
if my reading of the first two posts in this thread is correct, my situation is listed in #1 not #2 and my ABS light has to be on for this to be a code that would not show up …..I will go back and read that again
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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if my reading of the first two posts in this thread is correct, my situation is listed in #1 not #2 and my ABS light has to be on for this to be a code that would not show up …..I will go back and read that again
OK, I misread your post. If you have a check engine light, you must have an engine/emissions code. If it's not an active code, it may be a stored code. Any good quality code reader should find it.
 

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OK, I misread your post. If you have a check engine light, you must have an engine/emissions code. If it's not an active code, it may be a stored code. Any good quality code reader should find it.
The problem is that a properly functioning reader at autozone could not read any codes on my vehicle on 3 separate attempts. The same reader got codes from other vehicles immediately before and after trying to read mine. I am going to resolve the washer fluid issue and see if that resolve the other lights. I know they are not supposed to be connected but I found at least one instance of a vehicle getting CEL due to windshield washer fluid issues.https://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/troubleshooting-technical-modifications/10861-check-engine-light-windshield-fluid-related.html
 

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So I have one that I’m stumped by. The wife’s 2006 base 4 cylinder fwd started exhibiting the possessed turn signal behavior at 171000 miles. So I bought a new turn signal switch and swapped it out. Battery was disconnected overnight, column disassembled, airbag and steering wheel removed and replaced, etc. I was very careful with not damaging the clock spring. Everything went back together.

I now have the skidding car light (think that’s the TRAC light) and the VSC. Nothing else. Of course, the cruise control doesn’t work also. It has been driven about 3 times and about 15 miles and the lights are still on. I read the codes with the pin 4 and pin 13 method. It showed VSC 36, P/S 41 and Airbag 35, 37, 43. I did the zero point calibration and tried to erase the VSC codes with the paper clip method. No luck.

Any ideas from anyone? I read about ten pages of this thread and ran out of time.

Thanks,

Pete
 

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So I have one that I’m stumped by. The wife’s 2006 base 4 cylinder fwd started exhibiting the possessed turn signal behavior at 171000 miles. So I bought a new turn signal switch and swapped it out. Battery was disconnected overnight, column disassembled, airbag and steering wheel removed and replaced, etc. I was very careful with not damaging the clock spring. Everything went back together.

I now have the skidding car light (think that’s the TRAC light) and the VSC. Nothing else. Of course, the cruise control doesn’t work also. It has been driven about 3 times and about 15 miles and the lights are still on. I read the codes with the pin 4 and pin 13 method. It showed VSC 36, P/S 41 and Airbag 35, 37, 43. I did the zero point calibration and tried to erase the VSC codes with the paper clip method. No luck.

Any ideas from anyone? I read about ten pages of this thread and ran out of time.

Thanks,

Pete
Pete, since your symptoms don't correlate well with this topic I'd suggest you start a new thread. You'd plobably get better response than on a thread with 350+ posts. Then I'll delete this one if you can't.
 

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If anyone can offer any advisement, I have a 2011 Rav4. I recently had the slip indicator light turn on, followed by the check engine light about a day and a half later. I recently got oil changed before any of the lights turned on, and because I heard a slight grinding like noise while driving after the engine light came on, I went to check oil and discovered the hose connecting from engine to a couple other sensors was completely unplugged. I plugged it back but not wanting to stay too tightly. I am hoping for any advice or advisement as to if the two warning lights (slip indicator and cel) are related or not, and why it may have come unplugged/won't stay plugged. I turned it on right after plugging hose back up but lights are still on. I do have a small oil leak (or maybe it's burning oil) and have to add a small amount of oil each week. Not sure if that is relevant. I am really tight right now financially so I would be very grateful for any helpful insight. Thanks,
 

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If anyone can offer any advisement, I have a 2011 Rav4. I recently had the slip indicator light turn on, followed by the check engine light about a day and a half later. I recently got oil changed before any of the lights turned on, and because I heard a slight grinding like noise while driving after the engine light came on, I went to check oil and discovered the hose connecting from engine to a couple other sensors was completely unplugged. I plugged it back but not wanting to stay too tightly. I am hoping for any advice or advisement as to if the two warning lights (slip indicator and cel) are related or not, and why it may have come unplugged/won't stay plugged. I turned it on right after plugging hose back up but lights are still on. I do have a small oil leak (or maybe it's burning oil) and have to add a small amount of oil each week. Not sure if that is relevant. I am really tight right now financially so I would be very grateful for any helpful insight. Thanks,
Since it happened right after an oil change, perhaps you could return to whoever did it and tell them what happened and what you did and see what they say.
 

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I have since had both check engine and slip indicator lights turn off. So, good for now. Still worried about the oil leak/over burning of the oil, but thanks for replying to my original post!
 

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At the point when your vehicle's check motor light enlightens your dashboard, it's generally joined by a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. The light could be a minor issue, for example, a defective gas top, or it could mean something progressively genuine, for example, a fizzling motor. Much of the time, it implies that you'll be visiting the vehicle seller to fix the issue and get the light killed.
The check motor light — all the more officially known as the glitch pointer light — is a sign from the motor PC that something isn't right.
 

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The check motor light — all the more officially known as the glitch pointer light — is a sign from the motor PC that something isn't right.
Thanks for the enlightenment. A fizzling motor could definitely glitch my stomach.
 

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So this is my Check Engine/VSC/4WD light scenario: after replacing both O2 sensors [upstream & downstream], using CRC Mass Air Flow Cleaner on such sensor & air filter box area, the P2195 error code is still registering. So what am I overlooking - replace fuel filter, checking for vacuum hose leaks, etc. - please don't tell me it's the catalytic converter? [2007 RAV4, 4-cyl, mileage 161K]
 
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