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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

New member here, but I've been well served in the past by these forums. That being said, I'm a little stuck right now. I don't have a ton of money to start throwing parts at my car which died *thankfully* just a couple houses down the road from my home.

I had started my car just fine, pulled out and started driving when of a sudden I seemed to loose all forward momentum. Check Engine light came on and I pulled over/turned it off. Could not get it started again. It cranks, but does not catch. Knowing that my battery was old I got a new one to throw in hoping against hope that it was just a bad battery. Nope.

I get spark on all four plugs which by all accounts then tell me it's fuel pump, but I haven't been able to rule out for sure the rotation.

First real question; should my 2000 Rav4 show rpms when I crank? (haven't found a for sure answer to that thus far)

Second question; is there a way to test fuel pressure without a pressure gauge?

Third question; I've seen conflicting answers to this and just want clarification - Do you need to relieve pressure from the fuel pump system before you remove it if it's bad?
Follow up to that; is there a need to repressurize in a special way or just turn the car on?

Personally, I'd LOVE to find it's just a relay, but the way things have been going to me lately . . . *sigh*
 

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Curious to know what check engine light points to...
Fuel pump diagnosis starts with pressure at rail. I always use a gauge to determine if pump supplies cracking pressure for the injectors.

If you have spark, I would imagine crank/cam sensor are good along with the coil and ecu
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
A couple extra notes as I keep poking my car (not-so-affectionately named "Sparks" due to static shocks when getting in and out)

I'm not fully equipped with all the fancy testers, but my initial thought had been the coils because I've had issues with them in the past.

That being said, I *did* finally see a tiny increase on my tachometer when I try to start it.

Also, listening without a kid trying to "help", when I turn the key (before trying to start) I don't hear a hum, but I hear a "click-aaa-click", not sure if those would be the same.

I'll be trying to rent testers tomorrow when I have more time (work retail and have tomorrow off). But I'd been wondering if there were tests that I could do without the pressure gauge tester.
 

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Pressure gauge will show you if pump can supply necessary pressure to open injectors when the ecu drivers signal them. I use a probe that detects vibration via led on injector body while cranking engine. Therefore if injectors pulse, and I can feel it, there is sufficient cracking pressure. Have some crank engine and hold finger lightly on injector body?
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Check out Scotty Kilmer, he does some pretty good videos on troubleshooting and repairs.
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Good luck with her, keep us posted.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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A little more info:

This from an earlier post by calgaryrav4 for a 99 RAV4.

Here is a detailed list of procedures out of the toyota shop manual

General Troubleshooting

1. check battery
2. check engine is cranking
3. does it start? -> NO go to step 7.
7. check for fuel pressure
8. check for spark

Was there no spark?

Ignition troubleshooting

1. check all coil igniter connections
2. check resistance of high-tension cords (max resistance 25k ohms per cord)
3. check power supply to ignition coils
4.check resistance of ignition coils (secondary cold 9.7-16.7k ohms, hot 12.4-19.6k ohms)
5.Check resistance of camshaft position sensor (cold 835-1400 ohms, hot 1060-1645 ohms)
6. check resistance of crankshaft position sensor (cold 985-1600 ohms, hot 1265-1890 ohms)
7. check IGT signal from ECM

Did this help, let us know and keep us posted.
 
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