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Finally, I've had the Toyota Caldina OEM Muffler re-oriented to accommodate Curt Trailer Hitch Model No. 13524 This beefy 4,000LBS Towing Capacity Trailer hitch is rated for more towing than the Factory SXA11 1998 Rav4's 1500LBS max towing weight. Of course that rating must have a bit to do with the Rav4's original 3S-FE Engine.

I can't wait to see how the Rav4 GTT w/Gen 4 3S-GTE Engine pulls with a trailer attached.

Although it may be a while before I own a trailer to tow, I'm looking forward to the new accessories I can adapt to the rear of the Rav4 now! Such as bike racks, cargo baskets, etc.

So, the strange Caldina GTT Factory muffler has a side entrance and dual center exit, luckily this tucks up under the rav4 real tight.

Stay tuned, as I've got about 3 new Awesome mods and additions to the Rav4 GTT coming up in the next couple of weeks!

I hate to say that the Black Powdercoated Rims are starting to grow on me a bit after a week. I like to try new things, except skinny jeans, you'll never catch me in those!
 

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Man is that '98, ever a cool ride (head turner) / and no presence of nasty Ontario rust..you must be keeping it oil undercoated some or washing it real good.

I'll be following alone, this thread.

With a tow package / typically - larger radiator & alternator, transmission cooler (critical), 140 amp fuse, etc.

RAV4 tow capacity is generally 1,500 lbs / but the aftermarket hitch is a class III/IV (taking a 2 inch receiver & ball) is real good but over-rated (4,000#), in many applications.
Only v6 RAV4's with factory tow package, is rated at 3,500#...not the 4 cylinder SUV's. (1,500 lbs).
- v6 models also have larger brake rotors / better brakes assist, while towing closer to maximum weight limit

^^ I'm not up on the older models, but made a general statement instead...tow to the design of the specific Toyota vehicle (2.0 Liter, straight 4 cylinder), not to the capacity of the hitch...and you will avoid drive line trouble (transmissions hate high heat buildup) and be legal, on today's roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Man is that '98, ever a cool ride (head turner) / and no presence of nasty Ontario rust..you must be keeping it oil undercoated some or washing it real good.

I'll be following alone, this thread.

With a tow package / typically - larger radiator & alternator, transmission cooler (critical), 140 amp fuse, etc.

RAV4 tow capacity is generally 1,500 lbs / but the aftermarket hitch is a class III/IV (taking a 2 inch receiver & ball) is real good but over-rated (4,000#), in many applications.
Only v6 RAV4's with factory tow package, is rated at 3,500#...not the 4 cylinder SUV's. (1,500 lbs).
- v6 models also have larger brake rotors / better brakes assist, while towing closer to maximum weight limit

^^ I'm not up on the older models, but made a general statement instead...tow to the design of the specific Toyota vehicle (2.0 Liter, straight 4 cylinder), not to the capacity of the hitch...and you will avoid drive line trouble (transmissions hate high heat buildup) and be legal, on today's roads.
I found a cure for my East Infection and moved away from Onterrible some time ago. The e-Test laws wouldnt even allow this JDM engine swap to be a reality, so I said MYOB and FU and moved.
 

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4000 lbs REALLY?

I agree, a super nice 4.1!
But it you want to keep it that way stick to the 1500 lb limit.

If you hook a 4000 lb trailer up to it with a minimum of 10% hitch weight, 400 lbs, it'll squash the rear end to the ground if it doesn't rip the hitch right off the subframe leaving nasty jagged holes. The good news? The hitch will be left on the road undamaged.
If you get past that you aren't going anywhere very fast, that is if it doesn't quickly melt or break your drivetrain. For faster breakage accompanied by louder banging :egad:install a 3S-GTE!
 

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Towing rating has very little to do with the engine. Just about any engine will work, as long as you are staying away from steep hills and take your time. Brakes, engine/tranny cooling capacity, tow vehicle weight and suspension are much more important!

Towing with underrated vehicle can be very dangerous (and illegal). Most cops are not savvy enough to pull you over for it, but if you happen to get into an accident with overloaded vehicle, you might have some legal problems (including your insurance company not wanting to pay for damages).


I am the type who likes to push the limits and I have towed race car trailer for many years. Still, 4000lbs seems a bit unsafe without doing some major towing modifications:



  • Heavy duty springs (maybe even air bags)
  • BIG brake upgrade AND trailer brakes
  • BIG radiator and tranny cooler


And even after all that work, you will HATE towing with such a small vehicle!

What are you looking to tow?

Leon
 

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Please let us know how it works for you. I used to tow a car carrier but with a GMC Suburban. I am very wary of towing with a short vehicle such at the V1 RAV4. Longer is better in my experience.
.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I agree, a super nice 4.1!
But it you want to keep it that way stick to the 1500 lb limit.

If you hook a 4000 lb trailer up to it with a minimum of 10% hitch weight, 400 lbs, it'll squash the rear end to the ground if it doesn't rip the hitch right off the subframe leaving nasty jagged holes. The good news? The hitch will be left on the road undamaged.
If you get past that you aren't going anywhere very fast, that is if it doesn't quickly melt or break your drivetrain. For faster breakage accompanied by louder banging :egad:install a 3S-GTE!
Ummm.... 3S-GTE is done ;)

And with OME Springs and Shocks, the rear end doesn't even sag after 350lbs of gear is in the rear cargo area.

:laugh
 

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Ummm.... 3S-GTE is done ;)
And with OME Springs and Shocks, the rear end doesn't even sag after 350lbs of gear is in the rear cargo area. :laugh
Fantastic! Now that you've doubled the HP its time to double up on the frame so 400-500lbs doesn't bend it down.

And oh yeah, the turbo will melt things like pistons twice as fast under a towing load. That's why even tho they're great on performance most turbo equipped cars are not so great on tow rating.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fantastic! Now that you've doubled the HP its time to double up on the frame so 400-500lbs doesn't bend it down.

And oh yeah, the turbo will melt things like pistons twice as fast under a towing load. That's why even tho they're great on performance most turbo equipped cars are not so great on tow rating.
I've heard this, and plan to circumvent the problem by putting forged rods/pistons/pins in the spare 3S-GTE engine on a stand in my garage, and swap it out after doing some other stuff like HKS Timing belt & adjustable cam gears.

Planning on putting a larger turbo and a manifold with external wastegate, incase it fails on the road I can use most 4 bolt flange turbo's to figure out what's best.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Please let us know how it works for you. I used to tow a car carrier but with a GMC Suburban. I am very wary of towing with a short vehicle such at the V1 RAV4. Longer is better in my experience.
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I couldn't agree more, it's important to take note of the length of the tow vehicles wheel base, this is what I'm planning to tow with the Rav4 GTT.

It could be done with the Rav4 and it's original ~120HP, but I want MOAR!



 

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Doubled the HP, lol, more like 2.91 x 3S-FE = Mmmmmmm.
Yep, but if you haven't beefed up the rest of the drivetrain - transmission, differentials, axles, etc. you'll soon break something if you try to use anywhere near that power with a load such as a heavy trailer. I can't imagine it holding full power launches many times either.
 

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As others have said, engine power is the least of your worries when towing beyond the RAV's factory rating, its all to do with brakes, drive-line strength and body frame strength. I am sure I could tow 2500lbs with my 5dr RAV in a pinch, but he would hate me for it!, hence I bought a full size SUV that can tow over 4500 safely, and use it for just that.

I wonder how long the clutch would last too?
 

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I wonder how long the clutch would last too?
Reminds me of years ago when I towed our Hi-Lo travel trailer (caravan?) with my manual transmission front wheel drive Accord. There were a couple of towns I had to go thru that had uphill traffic lights. Altho I tried my best to avoid coming to a complete stop once in a while I'd get caught at an uphill red. To avoid burning the clutch I had to let the front tires spin in first gear until I could get up to speed.
Everyone looking at me with the tires smoking was better than a clutch job!
 
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