Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

21 - 40 of 91 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
arent you worry'd that rain or other water will fall on the magnet and backside of the speaker sindse you removed with the original speakers also the little plastic roof that protects the speaker from rain and whatter dripping?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
3dmazter said:
arent you worry'd that rain or other water will fall on the magnet and backside of the speaker sindse you removed with the original speakers also the little plastic roof that protects the speaker from rain and whatter dripping?
GREAT observation 3dmazter, I really never put any thought into that. Looking back at the pics, that explains why the Toyota speakers had that long black housing, possibly to protect any water that drips down from the windows. I can say that up to this date I have yet any problems with the speakers or their sound. Possibly in the long run I can expect some/minimal water damage to the speakers or even to the MDF but I would assume very little water makes it inside the door and hopefully, even less touches the speakers.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I had the same thing with my previous car.
I'd put a piece of thick plastic foil in the speaker hoole on the top side.
Then mounted the speaker.
So the plastic covers the magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
patsfan said:
g00ber said:
I've done 4 door speaker installs thus far, and one thing i've found with any install of door speakers is that water is going to leak through and expand that MDF really quick. The original door mounts are plastic specifically for that reason.

I'm trying to do a little research into options for future door speaker installs myself. Do sound shops have standard speaker rings that are made of plastic for this kind of thing?

I've also seen a few people installing door speakers using plastic rings (cut to size).

Any ideas?
i don't know about pre made adapters, but you can buy sheets of phenolic plastic. it cuts just like wood but won't be affected by water. but.....it's going to cost you close to 10x as much as mdf. you might be able to find a place with cutoffs laying around you can get cheaper.
Or you could go to Walmart and buy a plastic (hdpe) cutting board :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
534 Posts
g00ber said:
I've done 4 door speaker installs thus far, and one thing i've found with any install of door speakers is that water is going to leak through and expand that MDF really quick.
I haven't had any problem with my MDF rings installed 3 years ago.

The original door mounts are plastic specifically for that reason.
Because otherwise Toyota would have made them out of wood??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
164 Posts
I had been installing aftermarket car speakers for many years. Water does get into the door cavity. During winter, condensation occurs when the vehicle is parked indoor. These will re freeze on exiting the garage. Overtime, the sound from the speaker will tend to sound distorted due to the frozen moisture on the spider or speaker cone/rolled edge. Water also enter the door cavity by way of car washes. A lot of car washes uses high pressure water to hose down the side of car. This water forces it's way in by way of the window seals. The inside do get very wet. Using a piece of thick plastic sheet on the top of the speaker will lessen water damage to the speakers. I also use MDF as speaker spacer and it has work pretty well for installs that last over 8 years.

As for those who need replacement clips, just PM me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
CASPER could be right! My front right Infinity speaker is mysteriously starting to sound distorted. I will find some time in the spring to pop the door panel open and inspect the speaker for any possible cause. Secondly, I'm most likely going to add a 2 channel amp (I had in the basement lying around) to power these Infinity's. Word of advice, if you ever upgrade to aftermarket speakers, you're most likely going to need more power to feed the larger magnets. It's starting to bother me that I have to turn the volume up to 50 or 55 to listen to my music comfortably on a daily basis and since my bro left me an amp in the basement, I'll put it to good use. I'll be back to update...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
151 Posts
casper/others - what is the solution proposed here wrt water not damaging the MDF. would the thick plastic sheet need to be fabricated? OR there is an insert available.

am looking for just replacing the front speakers (and the tweeters, if needed to). what would be a good speaker that would not be deprived of the power by the stock HU
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
abhijitz- I plan on using a thick sheet of plastic and simply mounting it over the round opening such that the plastic would curve in a tubular fashion. It would simulate the Toyota speaker bracket that was removed. "Thick" is a relative term so what I was considering was something easy, like those plastic folders (stationary item) that I would cut up and screw onto the MDF speaker bracket. (I'll post an update w/ pics when I complete this project come Spring)

in regards to a "good speaker that would not be deprived of the power by the stock HU"- that may be hard to come by as all/most aftermarket speakers use a larger magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #31
(RAV4world changed their page layout and the pics all ended up as broken links. Here’s a repost to fix them!)
I just pulled out the Infinity Kappa 652.5i speakers out of my previous car and transferred them to my Rav4 and thought I'd include some pictures for those of you who plan on installing front speakers some day. Now, I was able to get a lot of information from RPM on his post: http://rav4world.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=15062 so I must give RPM credit on showing me the light, but I thought I'd just include some additional pictures and some additional useless info and comments since my post is primarily just the front door speakers, specifically with my good old Infinity Kappas. Hope this will help those of you considering replacing front door speakers on a 4.3 Base Rav4. Here goes...

As we're all aware, the sound quality on these factory speakers are truly lacking. I just keep telling myself, "it's ok. it's just easier not having to do anything." But seeing how my old Infinity Kappas were wasting away in my previous car, I had to pull them out and do something/anything with it! It wouldnt cost much to swap them so after reviewing RPM's post, the speaker trade looked simple enough and I began the process.

I start popping out the interior door switches with a nylon pry tool. I do a terrible job as I always do even with electrical tape taped all over the pry tool, I end up scratching up and chipping some of the plastics


There's 2 plugs you need to unplug after pressing each respective clip. 1 is for the door lock and the other is the window switch.


The arm rest and door release cover come off easily as described in RPM's post. Then you have to remove the side view mirror cover. Pry 1 edge and simply pull off. This clip seemed to be a softer/easier one.


Then there's the door cover. Just feel your way around to find a couple of the clips with a pry tool and pop those plastic clips out. I didnt think this part was that easy. Make sure your pry tool is cushioned with electrical tape so you dont scratch off any paint searching for those clips (bare metal= rust). Use the pry tool to get 2-3 clips off, then use your hands to pull off the rest in a quick jerking motion. On the door, you'll see some of the clips (white small circles) actually stuck to the door. That wasnt supposed to happen.


It's ok. Just use the pry tool and pop them out, then slide them back onto the back of the door cover. All is well.


After removing the door cover, everything is exposed, including the speaker. I used a 11/64 drill bit to drill off the rivets. You might need pliers to hold the rivet so it wont spin with the drill bit.


The front of the rivets are gone but some plastic inserts hold the back of the rivets in place so just use pliers to pull those off and the back rivets come off easily.


Here's the culprit. The factory no-brand speaker woofer. Heck, even my previous nissans had factory Clarion or Onkyo speakers. But not Toyota, they're too busy allocating funds into the cup holder inserts or something. Cant complain too much, my previous cars were foam surrounds that ripped easily, Toyota was nice enough to use cloth surrounds on a paper woofer (which will eventually rip too).


Then on the back you have this cute little magnet. Yeah, that metallic part is the magnet. From the back you can see why you need speaker brackets. Basically, Toyota made their speakers in a triangular frame and that frame is mounted to the door. There's no separating the speaker from the frame unless you want to make it a project to somehow make it fit by ripping out the factory woofer from the frame (needs more time). You cant buy speakers with triangular frames so you'll need a separate speaker adapter bracket.


My Infinity Kappa 652.5i's make their 2nd debut. If you look at all the Infinity Kappa's in the same series, you'll see that they're all the same except newer model numbers (652.5i, 652.7i,652.9i). They all have VERY similar frequency response and the Plus One CMMD woofer, unipivot tweeter, rubber surrounds and external crossover. So if you have a pair of old Infinity Kappas (or any old but good speakers), bring them back to life. It'll cost nothing and is very green for the planet!


Ahhh.. here's a real magnet.


And it fits too! Just need that bracket.


I pick up a 1/4" thick MDF board from the local Home D and start tracing. I thought I'd double up on it to make it thicker (because the 1/2" board cost $2 more and is harder to cut!)


I dont really have the right tools so cutting this MDF was a [email protected]#$%.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #32
Here's where I gave up. Cutting the outside with a hacksaw already took long enough, now I had to cut the inside circle? Then I'd double up on this so I'd need 2? Then I'd need another 2 for the front door on the other side! If you had the right tools, I guess this can be done easily, but i didnt.


So I spent $22 (shipped) on eBay for these bad boys. 3/4" thick MDF speaker brackets, made perfectly and shipped very quickly.


And they fit too!


Side view


Now back outside to install those Infinty Kappa crossovers. They fit snugly behind the existing Toyota tweeters which DO actually produce sound. I never even noticed that the car had tweeters until I took off the door panel. I'll consider these mid-range speakers now that my Infinity's will be producing the higher highs off it's dome tweeter, so in a sense, I have 3 way speakers on each of my doors now. The crossovers are held by 2 zip ties that are pulled tightly with pliers and tied to the existing Toyota tweeter brackets.


The speaker leads out from the crossover are dropped down behind the MDF speaker bracket and I used a 1” #10 machine screw and a nut to hold the speaker bracket to the door. Finger tighten the nut from the back.


Then a monkey wrench and a flat head to finish it off.


Connect speaker wires to terminals then screw on with a ¾” #8 metal screw.


This is the Toyota speaker connector. I was going to splice it but if I can avoid it, i prefer to. So I just wedged in the connector into the leads that go to the crossover. They went in perfectly. I tried alternating the polarities and either way, they sounded the same to me and the balance and fader was unaffected.


Electrical tape to prevent the connector and the leads from separating.


And the finishing touch, zip ties on each end of the connection to further prevent the connection from separating.


Step back and everything looks ok. No smoke coming from the engine. No blood on the floor. We're almost there.


Reconnect the door release lever to the door panel. Just hook the door panel back onto the door and make sure the clips match all the holes. Let the window and door connectors hang out because you need to reconnect it afterwards.


Pound it gently with the bottom of your fist everywhere there was a clip and it should go in easily.


That's it. Just do everything in reverse now and you're about done with 1 side atleast. I tested out the window and it opened and closed fine. Repeat everything for the other side and you're set. The only thing with the driver side is the plug controlling the window and door lock is slightly different. Put your thumb on the clip like shown in the pic. Then insert a flat head screwdriver to the little crease on the right. Wedge it left and right to lift it then it comes off easily. This pic shows it coming off.


I don’t have any plans to change the rear speakers yet but that’s because I know factory speakers (as crappy as they are) still produce some decent bass. Replacing the front speakers lessened the bass but increased the clarity of my music for me to hear. Replacing the rear speakers would further lessen the bass and may make me bass-deprived! That would just trick me into getting a sub and then an amp, then more wiring (which is more $$ and work at the end). So far, after the installation, the music is exactly how I like it, especially with toyota’s existing tweeter (mid-range) still in place. Something else that stands out is that larger magnets on higher end speakers definitely require more juice. I find myself turning up the volume up to 45-55 just to listen to my MP3 CDs now which I don’t recall doing before when I had stock speakers in the front.

I guess that’s all for now. Happy Rav4’ing!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Do you have a link to where you bought the brackets from? Did it come as the entire piece or did you just get the ring and glue it to the template you had already cut out?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #34
I got mine at eBay. Just search for "rav4 speaker adapter" and you'll get some hits. It looks like the MDF ones that I used are currently not available; I see plastic now and I think they should hold up as well. The MDF ones I got from eBay are an entire piece. I was going to make my own with the template I drew out but I gave up pretty quickly because I didnt have the right tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
My version of a speaker install

I found this thread very informative, so I thought I'd give something back.
Not trying to hijack, but figured this was better than starting a different thread.

Here, I installed a set of Kicker DS65.2 component speakers.
Their sound response is significantly different from stock.
Because of this, I will also do the rear doors with a pair of regular coax DS65's.
The crossovers have a switch on them to set the db attenuation of the tweeter at 0, +3 and +6 db.
I have mine set at +6, but will reduce it when I get the rear door speakers installed.
EDIT: I installed the rear door speakers and ended up leaving them at +6.


This is the pile of materials I used in the project. Foam insulating tape, a
plastic jug (after I empty it), 2 dollar cutting boards from Walmart, 3m VHB
double sided tape, 10/32 bolts, and a kneeling pad.. which I have not used
yet, and may not. I had planned to add it as a surround around the lower
speaker between the speaker and the door panel, but I was loosing light and was in a hurry.



Here we have the old tweeter cut from its mount with a coping saw.
I saved the tweeters electrical connector and discarded the tweeter.



Here is the bracket, all cleaned up with a scary sharp wood chisel.



and here is the tweeter installed. It is a thru the hole design with a big plastic nut on the back.



Here is one of the poly cutting boards clamped to a drill press with
a hole cutter chucked up. You cannot do this with a hand drill. I found out later that you can buy mounting adapters for about 20 bucks :wall

This is still cheaper for me though.



A 5 1/2" hole has been cut @ 200 rpm



Here, the outside cut was made for the outer ring on the drill press almost
all the way through and finished on the bandsaw



After some careful measuring, the remaining adapter is cut.
The 3 mount holes are 4" from the center of the speaker, but form an isosceles triangle, not an equilateral



3m VHB tape is applied to one surface, and the rings are stuck together.



Now we see what the plastic jug was for.



The speaker is dry fitted and the water shield double sided taped in place.
Notice the dado cut in the base of the speaker mount for the wires to pass through.







Here the mount is installed. Foam insulating tape was applied to the door mating surface before
bolting it up.
Dielectric grease was added to the connectors due to the exposed nature of the install.



And the tweeter gets installed in the door. The crossover is foamed and
zip tied to the tweeter mount



Here is a closeup of the connector removed from the old tweeter.
It is soldered to the crossover.



and its all finally installed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
Wow Michael503, that's an amazing amount of effort.

So did you build the speaker bracket to the exact same height as the factory bracket? I'm guessing that you want to raise the speaker out of the door as much as possible so that the window doesn't hit the speaker. It also looks like the foam ring of the factory speaker rests against the door panel. Is that something you want with the aftermarket speaker. Should the rubber ring of the after market speaker press against the door panel?

I'd love to the know the answers to these questions, as it seems you have to get the speaker bracket just right to use 6 1/2" speakers (Crutchfield lists mostly 5 1/4" speakers).

Did you see these brackets:

PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
PVC Speaker Adapters - CNC Machined - In Stock or Custom Made
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
So did you build the speaker bracket to the exact same height as the factory bracket? I'm guessing that you want to raise the speaker out of the door as much as possible so that the window doesn't hit the speaker.
That was the idea. the whole stack ends up being about 5/8" thick before I bolt the speaker to it. It is not the same height, but it does clear the window for sure. The speaker is also better protected from water

It also looks like the foam ring of the factory speaker rests against the door panel. Is that something you want with the aftermarket speaker. Should the rubber ring of the after market speaker press against the door panel?
The stock speaker fits against the door panel, which has a cylindrical section molded to it that mates with the speaker surface. It may be to isolate the front of the speaker as much as possible from the back of the speaker. I originally planned to cut the foam kneeling pad to size and use it to fill that space. With my adapters, the speaker lacks about 1/2" of contacting the door panel. I don't think it needs the pad.

Good find! I would have bought them instead of making them. :wall

After checking the site however, The tweeter mount doesn't look anything like the Rav4 mount on my 2011 so I don't think its a fit.
Also, when I try to order a set, I get this from the site...

"We apologize for the inconvenience.
Due to our business stoppage, we are unable to complete this request."

I don't know if that means holidays, or they went bust.:shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
276 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
Michael503,

GREAT write up and great job. you created the plastic guard that I was only dreaming of! Enjoy your new speaker setup!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
112 Posts
Michael503,

GREAT write up and great job. you created the plastic guard that I was only dreaming of! Enjoy your new speaker setup!

Thx. I just installed the Kicker 6.5 coax speakers in the back, the same way as the front. With some minor Parametric EQ adjustment, they sound great, even at low volumes. Boost 50hz +3 out of 7, drop 500hx -1, high at zero

The Kickers are particularly efficient, rated @91 db/1W/1Meter. The are also shallow which helps the fitment.

No sound deadening was used as I do not hear any panel resonation and do not plan to run them at a volume that causes it. Like I said before, I'm just looking to make it sound better, not perfect.

I think they sound great. I am using a Clarion Nav unit to drive them, 19W/channel


When installing the rear speakers, I desoldered the wires on the stock speaker, removed the connector block, and soldered the Kicker wires to it, making a harness adapter. It can be put back, but the stock speakers sound so crummy that I don't know why I would want to. A buddy of mine who has dealt with music and acoustics for decades looked at the stock speaker and said the design was for efficiency, not quality. The larger the cone size in relation to the driver size makes it louder for a given input. Apparently this was to make the system loud. Perhaps the stock amp is rated fairly low. It is also cheaper to do. Cheap speakers like this don't need a monster amp to drive them, so you build a smaller amp to go with it.

It may also be purposely mediocre sounding to sell you the JBL system, which does use a different speaker, white polypropylene I think. The JBL system adds a good bit to the dealer price. Like most accessories, its way overpriced. It also probably comes with the limited.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
michael, nice work and thanks for posting! just out of curiosity,

did you lose any bass or richness with your new speakers?

is that the original toyota tweeter crossover (the white one)?

you didn't wire that in with your new tweeter and crossover did you?
 
21 - 40 of 91 Posts
Top