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Turbo5upra: That's interesting.. it would make the sound stage seem wider, or actually, less localized, because you loose all sense of image placement and the lower frequencies from each speaker are going to cancel each other out so you will have less bass. Maybe your sub woofer is making up for the bass loss?

There are some good tone tests and music tests with phase in and out at this link. If your speakers are now out of phase, they will sound like in phase when you play the out of phase test. I would be interested in what you think when you play them... maybe your setup is actually in phase?
 

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I set relative volume then phase- quick tune as the new amps are on the way... Why I don't use the amps I bought for it is beyond me but what the hay....

After relative volume I went back and turned off tweeters and subs as the mids play most important cues from 53 on up to 4k... I used a few music tracks I know well to center it up roughly... Started out center in the left door with them in phase... Flopped right mid and it moved center to the horn button... I used ta to move it to center... Did similar with the tweeters...

Sub is on the dash- center is dead center. Height is about 3-4" above the dash but I'm 6'5...


I played the iasca disk the other night and it was in phase... The 7 drum beats need a bit of work- slightly off.

Going to give tuning with just the narritive from the MECA disk a try per a friends suggestion- center and tonality that is.

Reginal finals are 2 weeks away- I gots me some work to do!
 

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Not sure how you are doing all that but it sounds like you've got everything in control! All the best.
 

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In the process of another audio upgrade myself. I was wondering if any of you ended up breaking any OEM pieces such as door panel clips, etc? I am trying to think and prepare ahead a bit here before my installer starts popping off my doors and doing the install. A friend recommended that I purchase a bag of the door clips just in case but looking at the clips themselves in the photo's attached within this forum, it doesn't look like there is really anything to break in reference to them. I am in Chicago and it is cold and the plastic will be more brittle.. Like I said, just trying to think ahead..

I am having CDT HD-62's installed to replace my front components and a PPI 900.4 amp to power them. Getting a 4 gauge OFC amp kit from KnuKonceptz & 14 gauge speaker wire from StreetWires.

Plan on using the rear's for fill only and perhaps one day in the future I will throw a sub in somewhere.. I want SQ.. And right now stock has enough bass for me, so we will see.

Anything else you guys think I need to pick up before bringing vehicle and parts to my installer? Recommendations? Suggestions? Warnings? Any specific area's that my installer is going to run into difficulty?

Any and all help from you audiophiles would be greatly appreciated!!!!
 

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Inocense, I just finished installing Polk db651 in all four doors, a Blaupunkt 470 amp and a JVC KD-AHD79 head unit. I can tell you from experience that the install was a PITA. I am familiar with working on cars, changed the front suspension on my Porsche 944 turbo, but nothing of that sort holds a candle to what you are about to take on.

Removing the door panels is easy - literally takes 15 minutes to remove all 4 panels but that's where the fun stops and the nightmare begins.

1. You have to drill out rivets to remove factory speakers. Use a drill bit that is bigger than the shaft of the rivet. [Thank you, Carbon.]

2. If you're running your own speaker wire through the rear doors, you will have to drill through the factory molex connectors. These are made from some kind of super alien bullet proof plastic and it takes a while to drill through these. There is no other way that I know of passing wires through to the doors. Each door connector took me an hour to drill through.

3. You will probably get Scosche SAT-6 speaker adapters with your speakers from Crutchfield. Don't be stupid like me and DO NOT use these ... make your own adapters or pay someone to cut custom ones for you. If you did not choose the custom-bracket option, please read on ...

You need to use long, thin sheet metal screws to mount SAT-6 adapters to your RAV4's doors. Sounds easy but lining these up is a PITA and you have to break off one ear from the adapters. Once you've done this, you will be happy but only for a short while. Your RAV4 will soon wipe the smile off your face when you go to mount your speakers on the adapters you just installed. What now, you ask? The speaker holes will not line up to those on the adapters. So option 1: drill holes in the SAT-6 adapters and mount your speakers. If you are stupid like me, you will not choose this option and do what I did. Read on ...

Take the factory adapters that came with your speakers and mount them on top of the SAT-6 adapters with some 1/4 sheet metal screws and then mount your speakers (db651) on top of these.

Once you've done this, you will be happy for another short while ... until you try to install the front door trim panels. The factory speaker grills will not clear the db651 tweeters. Easy enough, you'll say "just go ahead and remove the factory speaker grill". Well .. the silver trim ring on the grill is attached to the door panel with 4 plastic rivets. Drill these out and you will notice that the grill and the door panel are a single piece! You can use a jig saw or a drill and plastic cutter to remove the factory grill from the front door panels. Do not remove the factory grill from the rear doors as those clear the db651 (I did ... to make it worse for myself and to make all 4 doors look the same). It will take you about 30 minutes to remove the grill from each front door.

Once you've done all this, you can re-install the door panels and check out your new sound system. Do yourself a favor and check everything before you close the doors back up.

So the lessons that I've learned are:
1. Do not use db651 speakers ... they sound GREAT but are a PAIN to install.
2. If you do use db651 speakers, get a custom bracket made. There is a trade off here though - if you mount the speakers too deep in the door you run the risk of getting them wet. db651 are marine rated but I did not take the chance. My "solution" of mounting factory db651 adapters on top of SAT-6 ones is alright because it keeps the speaker coil covered ... just like the factory RAV4 speakers are covered with a palstic ring. The thing with this is that you get to cut the factory grills out and buy 8" grills to replace those.. there is a "Turn your RAV4 into a Concert Hall in 4 weekends" thread on here, where I borrowed the speaker grill idea from.

Also, it's worth it to insulate the door panels ... and do not forget to disconnect the factory tweeters.

But in the end your efforts will pay off as your new audio system will sound miles better than the factory crap that Toyota put in.

I wonder why Toyota made it so difficult to replace the factory speakers. Is it that they wanted to keep the factory JBL option as the only viable upgrade? Anyone care to speculate?
 

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That was funnny. Reminds me of that movie, "The Money Pit"

I didn't think it was that difficult, but I agree, it isn't for someone who wants an easy job.
 

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Lol ... I'm glad you saw the humor :)

It is definitely not an easy job. It was also made considerably harder than it was by my insistence on "doing before planning" or "not stopping to think".
 

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I'm planning on following these examples and installing new speakers in the front doors. I'm probably also going to do some sound deadening. My problem is that it's probably going to take me a while (I have 2 young children) and I need to use the car. When I get the door panel off is it OK or not smart to leave it off and still use the car? From the photos, it looks like the awkward part would be the door handle which would be hanging by the cable and I'm guessing would be hard to use.
 

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I'm planning on following these examples and installing new speakers in the front doors. I'm probably also going to do some sound deadening. My problem is that it's probably going to take me a while (I have 2 young children) and I need to use the car. When I get the door panel off is it OK or not smart to leave it off and still use the car? From the photos, it looks like the awkward part would be the door handle which would be hanging by the cable and I'm guessing would be hard to use.
I'm down with helping depending if you can spend one day- the door panels come off in under 5 mins each... So I wouldn't worry too much about that- proper deadening with 2 people along with speaker install should take 2-3 hours. I have pics of the latest install I need to post up- I'm finally happy when I have to drive this vehicle.
 

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I'm down with helping depending if you can spend one day- the door panels come off in under 5 mins each... So I wouldn't worry too much about that- proper deadening with 2 people along with speaker install should take 2-3 hours. I have pics of the latest install I need to post up- I'm finally happy when I have to drive this vehicle.
Thanks for the offer. I'll keep that in mind. Are you in upstate New York?

You're right that it probably wouldn't take me too long. I really should just go for it. My MO is take take the panel off and then agonize for a long time before doing anything. I do know I want to take the panels off first before I buy some speakers to check the window clearance and have a plan for the tweeter install.

I'd love to see your new install photos. It's been inspiring seeing all the work people do in these forums.
 

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I'm about 2 hours from Bennington- I'm going to try and upload pics while I'm sitting here doing nothing :p
Can't wait to see them!

Is 6.5 inches the best size/sound combo for the 2006+ RAV4?

Also, would these help:
Amazon.com: Toyota Aftermarket 6.5-Inch Plastic Speaker Adapter (Black): Car Electronics

They're kind of spendy, and I'm wondering if these cheaper ones wouldn't do the trick:

Amazon.com: Scosche SAT6 Speaker Adapter for 2000-Up Toyota Echo/Avalon: Car Electronics

Looks like they're even cheaper from Crutchfield w/free shipping:
Speaker Mounting Brackets Fits select 1999-up vehicles (for 5-1/4" or 6-1/2" speakers) at Crutchfield.com

Any good speaker recommendations? I put Infitity Kappas in my MINI, and they sounded incredible, even though I was only able to fit 5.25 speakers in the front doors. Is there are speaker that sounds comparable but might not cost as much money? Where I just literally purchased speakers not to long ago, I'm not exactly keen on doing it again so soon... Even though Amazon had the Kappas on a great sale, they were still kind of spendy ($96 for the 6x9's and $64 for the 5.25s).

I have an Alpine 4 channel amp, but I don't know if I want to go through the hassle of installing that quite yet. I would probably have enough free time to put in an aftermarket deck, though. I own an old Pioneer Premiere that still works well.

Thoughts?
 

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I myself would make them out of birch plywood and cover them in fiberglass resign- to me if you plan to go through the effort of deadening spend the time to firmly install the Midbass.

Lowest budget components i would touch would be digital designs- iirc the set retailed for just short of 200 and I really enjoyed the sound and build quality... 6.5's make the most sense... To me adding the 4 channel to the factory speakers and adding a sub makes more sense...
 

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I myself would make them out of birch plywood and cover them in fiberglass resign- to me if you plan to go through the effort of deadening spend the time to firmly install the Midbass.

Lowest budget components i would touch would be digital designs- iirc the set retailed for just short of 200 and I really enjoyed the sound and build quality... 6.5's make the most sense... To me adding the 4 channel to the factory speakers and adding a sub makes more sense...
I forgot to mention I also have a really nice Kenwood mono block 1900 watt max sub amp, and a 12" Alpine type R in a ported box. Thing sounded insanely good in my other car. I had a cap installed as well, since I am running two amps.

I've gotta balance my time though. I called around and labor on this stuff is more expensive than I can afford at this moment, and my spare time is also limited because I'm trying to graduate from Officer Candidate School in the Army National Guard, plus do my one full time and two part time jobs, lol.

I'm trying to figure out what will give me the best balance of sound improvement per dollar and time spent. I have no way to cut plywood speaker adapters at this time. I used to have access to a college shop, but my connection there has graduated and moved on.
 

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I've decided to give this a go as I'm not even sure the local car audio shops would be able to do this type of job. After seeing all the work involved, I'm wondering how good a job I would get from them.
That's my thought exactly! Can anyone comment? Are we not giving the pros enough credit? Do they go the extra mile to cover the new speaker with a piece of plastic so it doesn't get ruined from water entering with a high pressure car wash?
 

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Here's some stuff for beginners like me to hopefully at least help one person out. Some points may be already been known, but I'd like to repeat it for the heck of it.

First off, my mission: Cheap(er) upgrade for my 2012 base, to get a little bit more detail and volume out of the stereo. So I installed a Rockford Fosgate amp (R300X4), component Pioneers (TS-A16053), and matching coaxials for the rear are still in the mail. Not to endorse Rockford Fosgate, but its advertised as 300 watts. The certification that came with it said it made 413 rms watts! The opposite minus the certification will happen with the lower end stuff.

Anyways, first point for beginners like me. Don't buy the speaker wiring adapters if you're installing components! I installed my components using the wire adapter and got no sound. It was a little suspicious that the factory tweeter had a 4 pin plug, so I investigated with a voltmeter. Turns out the factory "crossover" is built into the tweeter. So the audio signal goes into the tweeter, then out to the woofer. This is where you want to hook up you aftermarket crossover. Use a voltmeter with the music on, and figure out which 2 wires are getting power (with tweeter unplugged of course, and don't lecture me how only 1 of the 2 wires are getting power on a DC circuit heh)

Also if anyone is curious and needs reasurance, I didnt buy speaker adapters. Took a pocket knife, and 2 seconds later had my factory speaker removed (gutted'em like a hog). Screwed in the Pioneers just fine without a drill and a little effort. Unbolted the tweeter mount, cut the epoxy holding the tweeter in and ripped it free of the mount. Dropped in the aftermarket, and its nice, snug and secure with electric taped (for now) in the factory mount.

And since a lot of people seem to want to keep factory head units in newish cars, even amped, I say go for it. Huge improvement, I'm very happy with the money invested. If you want to keep the factory HU, the Metra 70-1761, its opposite 71-1761, multi-conductor wire (also known as 9 wire.. you want 9 wires) and basic solder + heat shrink skills makes it very doable Connect the two harnesses together but the 8 speaker wires. Connect each harnesses 8 speakers to the appropriate length of 9 wire. One 9 wire will connect with the high level in on the amp, and the other will connect to the speaker outputs. Cool thing is about the Rav (I can only confirm mine), is that it had a factory amp turn on wire! Too easy. Just connect it to the high input 9 wire.

And as a last comment... Good chances you'll get the fever and end up with a head unit. So the half the soldering can be avoided, but it was a fun little project doing it with the factory! I got a buddy selling me his 12" sub, box and amp, and I'll probably end up running them with the factory head unit as well for a month or two, so I'll get back to you all on my comments.
 

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I don't see any reason to create wood mounts or to add plastic rain guards. Just get an aftermarket head unit that has RCA Jack outputs for front and rear speakers, some head units even have two more RCA jacks for two rear subs. If you're replacing just the four door speakers, you'll have to have an amplifier to get good sound. A new aftermarket head unit pre-amp won't make much difference in sound, actually it may sound worse if you get good quality speakers.

Then you have no reason to run wires to your door speakers. The RCA jacks are the output from the radio and into the amp, and the amplifier out speaker wires go to the back of the head unit. Check other posts for speaker wire colors.

It's not a nightmare, I can get each door panel off in two minutes using a Phillips screwdriver and Flathead screwdriver. I just break the factory plastic speaker adapter with a Flathead screwdriver and break the factory rivets with a wire cutter from Walmart to get it out. Then get a speaker adapter for 6.5" speakers from Amazon that keeps rain from dripping down on the speakers. Dont try to install 6.75" door speakers, they don't fit.

Audiobaxics Toyota aftermarket 6.5" speaker adapter was about $12 for a pair from Amazon.

Before and after pics.


Done.
 

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