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Discussion Starter #41
limengel said:
Very nice and very informative. DO you happen to have the wiring schematic or diagram of the head unit?
I did have a schematic of the audio system when I did the install (no idea where they are now). However, I believe I found them on these forums...do a search and see if you can find them.
 

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Your guide was very helpful, although I didn't really want to try and manufacture my own box. I already had planned to put in 4 new door speakers, and my Alpine X001 head unit, so I did that first, but I wanted the extra bass.

I managed to find an excellent JL 8W7 in a small ported box that would do the job, and sit in the same location as yours. I bought an Alpine Mono 500W amp, and ran the rca wiring for the sub up to the head unit, and then ran the power wires along the other side to the rear.

Unit installed perfectly, and to hold it down firmly (in case of a rollover, etc), I added some brackets that attach to the frame to keep it from shifting. (more pics in my album)



From the outside, you wouldn't even realize the car is packing some good bass. Thanks for your tips - it helped with removing the door panels, and gave me some good ideas on how to add my stealth box.
 
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You installed a single din CD player on RAV4. That is wonderful. In my opinion, most owners can not do this by themselves.
So i ordered an all-in-one car DVD player for my RAV4. It is easy to install.
:roll:

BTW, here is the link<a href="http://www.autodvdgps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_61&products_id=481">
Toyota RAV4 DVD GPS Navigation player with 7" Digital HD touchscreen + PIP RDS
Bluetooth iPod Control</a>
 
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Caldina said:
You installed a single din CD player on RAV4. That is wonderful. In my opinion, most owners can not do this by themselves.
So i ordered an all-in-one car DVD player for my RAV4. It is easy to install.
:roll:

BTW, here is the link<a href="http://www.autodvdgps.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=16_61&products_id=481">
Toyota RAV4 DVD GPS Navigation player with 7" Digital HD touchscreen + PIP RDS
Bluetooth iPod Control</a>
This item looks cool! What's the price you paid for it pls? Is it reliable to buy things there? Have you encountered any problem with it?
 

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Nice install.....too bad you used SolidQuirks to design the box...... :)

This coming from a 13+ year Pro/E user. :)

Time to upgrade man!
 

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CYCLE_MONKEY said:
Nice install.....too bad you used SolidQuirks to design the box...... :)

This coming from a 13+ year Pro/E user. :)

Time to upgrade man!
Nice now I will take my door panels off and install some sound proofing.
Then start saving for the rest of my system upgrade..
 

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Great post, I have used it a lot.

I just finished putting in 80sq ft of Second Skin into my 2010 Rav4. All 4 doors in & out, all around the rear cargo area including a layer up top, about 3 on the bottom, most of the sides & rear door. I have a 12"x12" piece left over...nothing more. While I have the interior panels out I ran new 1/0 for power, 14 gauge for speakers, and a few extra wires for fun stuff floating around in my head. I have about 15 hours into the build so far and am starting to take a few pictures to post.

I am hoping to fit 2 10" subs, 4 channel amp, 1 channel amp, 2f power cap & distribution block in the back all without being seen. This should be a fun build with lots of blood sweat and tears.

Keep up the good work!!!
 

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RPM said:
I've been lurking on this excellent site for over a year but this is actually my first post. I purchased my Rav in November of 07' and have been extremely sastified with the performance (V6), handling (Sport), and the fit and finish.

However, the one thing that drove me nuts since the first test drive was the stereo (base stock, non-JBL). I looked into upgrading to the factory JBL system but from what I've read on this site it wasn't much of an improvement. That and the fact I had a buch of old gear from my previous ride (VW Jetta), I decided to replace the stock speakers and add a sub/amp into the cargo floor area.

Below is the work-in-progess from when I first started the install (December 07') until now (March 08'). There are lots of pictures (I actually maxed out my album) but if you have any questions or want a hi-res photo just let me know.

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5926
I designed the sub enclosure/amp rack using 3D software. This is where you want to measure twice (more like ten times) and cut once.

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5912
Sub/Amp rack built from 3/4" MDF. Slots were routered in amp rack for wire acess and cooling. Sub enclosure is ~1 cu ft.

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5913
Carpeted. It almost matches the charcol interior of the Rav but it's a shade lighter.

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5979
Sub/amp rack being installed. Sub is a Resonant Engineering SR10 4ohm DVC (wired in parallel for 2ohm load). Amps are old school Rockford Fosgate's:100a2 (bridged mono for sub; 400a4 for the door components. The 100a2 was soon replaced with a 200a1 mono sub due to the first one not being able to run stable into 2 ohms (wiring the sub in series for an 8 ohm load did not sound good either).

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=6067
Close up of the amps (w/the 200a1 installed). I machined the end caps and bridge out of aluminum and painted them to match the factory look.

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=6068
Sub/amp installed w/cargo floor cover in place. Now you see it...

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=6069
...Now you don't. Cover is only used when I need to get groceries or pack up the family for a trip. I ran a seperate remote power switch (see below) to disable the sub amp when the cover is in place. I've run the component speaker amp for a 2.5 hour drive and it only gets warm to the touch with the cover on, however I don't usually crank the stereo w/the wife and kids in the car either!

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=6084
Remote power switch for sub amp, used to turn off sub when cover is in place. I took a dremel to one of the dummy panels and installed a simple switch.

Stay tuned for more...
can anyone help me with the radio wiring color code of my rav4 2007 model. thanks
 

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Re: Modifing Factory Radio

RPM said:
/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5982
Removing side trim panels. I picked up a set of trim removal tools from Princess Auto for about $15- this was definitely a worthwhile investment!

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5983
Removing radio bolts (x4). Be careful not too lose the bolts behind the dash (I used a magnetic screwdriver).

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5986
David Navone LOC's modified w/extensions. These will tie into the factory speaker wires from the deck to feed the amps. (I used the pass-thru RCA connections on the Fosgate amp to feed the sub amp).

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5987
LOC's wired up to the factor wire harness. I used male/female spade connectors so I can put it back to stock when the time comes.

/forums/album_pic.php?pic_id=5978
The LOC's were then hooked up to a set of RCA's that ran along sind the drivers side trim to the rear hatch area. The side plastic panel was also notched out w/some rubber edging to protect all the cables (ground, speaker, RCA's).


rpm need help, i want to change my head unit with after market stereo but i just don't get the wiring color codes. can you provide a full detail?thanks in advance.
 

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rpm do you have a radio wiring color code because i also want to change my head unit but can't get where to put the correct wirings for my 2007 model. thanks
 

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Very nice project, love what you did with the cargo space, matter of fact, im looking into building a custom box for my cargo space, one question though, how did you get the wiring down there, your pics show flawless wiring into the compartment.
 

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i am also thinking of upgrading the stereo of my rav but i can't do it on my own, i must go to a specialist. The most thing that scares me is all those parts that needs to be disassembled... do you use something to prevent noising once you reassemble them?
 

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The links have been fixed so the pictures show up again! Well, most of them anyway. The original poster, RPM, must have deleted a few of them from his album, and he hasn't visited the forum in over a year.
 

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it does not get any better than that. bloody marvelous job you have done there. congratulations.
 

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Great job!! Got Pioneer GM-6500F 4CH amp and Polk Audio DB651S installed in around 12 hours time using this post as reference!! Being the first time doing a car project, took all my time to do it slowly. Wish I'd bough better crimping tools for wiring the 2007 BASE head unit to the AMP... I installed the amp under front passenger seat and had to 'trim' off the A/C vent below the passenger seat. Yet to design a simple deflector to keep the hot air from the amp. Until then no hot air to the foot for rear seat passengers :)
 

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Has anyone had problems with the depth of new 6 1/2" speakers? I want to buy some Alpine S type speakers to go along with my new Alpine HU, but they are not listed as compatible on Crutchfield (they list mostly 5 1/4" speakers). However, Alpine says that they are low profile to replace most OEM speakers. Does the RAV have a particularly tight space for speakers?

Looking at the photo of the stock speakers in this post, it seems like the factory bracket is a good 1" deep and keeps the speaker away from the window. Maybe a 1" spacer of some kind would keep the Alpine speaker away from the window, but still behind the factory grill.

I'd like some mid level 6 1/2" speakers that will sit behind the factory grills and won't interfere with the windows in any way. Is this possible?
 

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I did a stereo system install in my Rav4 (base model, non-amplified) last weekend, it came out excellent!

Rather then always worry about someone ripping off my stereo, I figured I would see what kind of sound quality I could get out of the factory headunit. I installed a speaker level to line level converter off of the front speaker outputs of the factory stereo, and that goes to an Alpine ERE-G180 equalizer in the center console, then that feeds a 4 channel Pioneer GM D9500F amplifier under the passenger seat (75W RMS X4, an AWESOME amp at $150!). I installed a Pioneer 6.5" component speaker set in the front, and I used some 6.5" co-ax speakers in the rear that I have had sitting on a shelf for a few years. I can't fade from front to rear door speakers, but since the new Poineer component speakers are much more efficent then the rear co-ax speakers, it works out great because the soundstage is in the front and the rear just add some rear fill. I also had a JL Audio 12W3-V2 sub and an old box I used to run in my WRX. I have the front 2 channels of the amp running the front and rear speakers in parallel, and the rear channels bridged to the 12" sub, 4 ohm.

Since this is basically just a quickly installed budget system, I opted to cut the old speaker cone and basket out of the stock speakers and use those as mounting brackets. I soldered wires for the new speakers where the stock speaker's tinsel lead solder tabs were. For the stereo wiring, I bought two harness adapters, one set male, and one set female, so I didn't have to cut any of the factory wiring. That way I can literally unplug all the wiring from the headunit and put it back to stock very easily. The speaker to line level converter is under the rear view mirror controls inside the center console, so I can adjust it without pulling out the stereo. I was surprised that even this non-amplified stock headunit has an 12v amplifier turn-on wire! Back in the day none of the stock headunits had anything but a output wire for antenna control.

My oldschool Alpine eq gives me subwoofer control, adjustable crossover, and plenty of sound adjustments. Since I had most of the equipment already from previous vehicles, I only spent a total of about $250 to do this system in the Rav4. This system can get louder then I care to listen to it, and without distorsion even at those levels. Since all the audio equipment is hidden, it still looks like I have a stock stereo system. I was a car audio installer for the Good Guys for about 6 years, but it's been quite a while ago. It was fun to get back into it a little bit. I was shocked at the high sound quality of the stock headunit using the speaker to line level converter! I have done thousands (literally) of stereo system installations, so I do have a good frame of reference. The stock stereo's amplifier power is poor, and the stock speakers sound terrible, but the stock stereo is a decent source to go to an aftermarket amplifier with speaker level inputs.
 
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