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Discussion Starter #1
Hi.
I have now done a 1AZ to 2AZ swap and it works great! The 1az-fe engine have too little low-end torque for my taste and does not work well in the Rav. So I decided to do a swap to the 2.4 liter 2AZ-FE.
I got my hands on a used engine from a 2001 Previa with about 150k km on it ( same year as my Rav , the rav has about 250k km ) .
I have read about the oil problems and loose headbolts issues with the 2.4 engine, so I decided to tear it appart and do a complete checkup and overhaul ,using the original workshop manual.
I did a rebuild and honed the cylinders, changed all bearings, rings on pistons, gaskets, new waterpump, sensors, timing kit etc, re-grinded the valves, shaved cylinderhead 0.5mm, ported and polished head, installed new BrianCrower cams stage 2 and BC valve springs and retainers.
When I did the swap in the car, I decided it was easiest to take the complete engine/gearbox down from the underside of the car, I loosend the complete sub-frame, but left the shocks, stabilizer and steering rack in the car.
I also changed the clutch when I had the transmission apart from the engine! :)
When everything was back together, I ran the starter without sparkplugs in the car to build up oil pressure, the car ran a little rough at first, but after some adjustment of the idle control, and bleeding the coolant it ran great!
I use the stock 1AZ-FE ECU but the 2AZ-FE injectors, these two things are the only difference i could find on the two engines, the rest of sensors are the same, including the fuel pump, pressure regulator, MAF sensor etc.
The new 2.4 engine have quite a lot more low-end torque and fits this car a lot better than the stock 2.0 litre. I am very pleased with the result 
I only ran in to some minor issues under the build/swap.

first: there is several different engine side covers , the bolt holes and the angle for the engine mount are not the same, be sure to change the cover to one that fits your car ( 1AZ-FE and 2AZ-FE covers are interchangeble )

second: When I mounted the engine back together after the overhaule, I did a mistake when I put on the silicone between the upper and lower engine-block. So I ended up with a huge oil leak in the front of the engine ( I tried to fix this with epoxy / liquid metal, but I ended up taking it apart again to re-seal it properly )

third: I used the exhaust mani / cat converter from the Previa since the stock from my Rav was dead and throwing me codes once a week. I noticed when I was bolting up the exhaust, the bolts didn`t fit, they had moved the bolt holes about one cm "anti clock-wise" So i had to cut of the flange on my exhaust and re-weld it to make the bolts line up.

I have a lot of photos from the engine build,but is only able to add 25 images for some odd reason? so here is a little taste :)


needs a cleanup!
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before and after clean
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valves before clean and rework
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used this to hone the cylinders
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result
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The port an polish
before
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during
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finnish
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Painting the engine block
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installing BC cam`s
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[URL=http://s362.photobucket.com/user/LegendOfNorway/media/Rav4/2015-05-07%2017.48.09_zpsmctjaeof.jpg.html]

[IMG][URL=http://s362.photobucket.com/user/LegendOfNorway/media/Rav4/2015-05-07%2019.13.15_zps8t7lix7d.jpg.html][IMG]http://i362.photobucket.com/albums/oo62/LegendOfNorway/Rav4/2015-05-07%2019.13.15_zps8t7lix7d.jpg[/URL][/IMG]

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Well done and great pictures. I think this is the first post I seen with pictures for a second gen engine swap. This thread will provide valuable information in the future for those that are considering an engine swap from 1AZ to a 2AZ.

I see your profile shows you are mechanic. Did you do this at work? How long did it take from start to finish?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you DL175 :)

Yes I did all the work my self ( exept decking the cylinder head ). The engine build was done over a longer period ( started dismanteling the engine last summer and was finished this spring ), I was only able to do a little work each time in some weekends, so the total time of this i`m not sure about, and I did not rush this. I did all the measuring according to the workshop manual on the 2AZ-FE engine and changed every gasket, bearings, etc. and the port and polish of the cylinder head took a lot of time.
But the swap itself was done in about 10-12 hrs with a car lifter, air tools, fork lifter, lifter table , and some good friends :) ( I did not count the oil leak, exhaust fitment issues etc in this time ) It can be done a lot faster I guess, but this was the first time I did this in a Rav4 .
I took down the complete undercarrier to get the engine and gearbox out, after this I had to do a wheel alignment also.

I wanted to add more photos of the swap, but I only get to add 25 images for some reason. If anyone knows how to add more, please share :)
 

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The limit is 25 pictures for Regular membership. There is also a Premium and Life Time Membership which allows 250 pictures. Check it out by looking at the top right corner of the page under Get Premium.

So it looks like you can not post any more pictures unless you upgrade your membership. (I counted only 23 pictures on this page ?)
 

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Hi Lid'em,
Great write up and photos. Thanks for sharing.
Did you use the original gearbox from the 2L engine with the 2.4L engine? The reason I'm asking is because I recently bought a used gearbox & transfer case from a 2.4L engine as spare (because it was cheap and had only done about 156,000 Kms). I was told that it would fit on the 2L engine. So if your 2L gearbox fitted, chances are that the 2.4L gearbox will be compatible with the 2L engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
DL175: You are rigth, I also only count 23, not sure why I had to delete the rest to get it uploaded?

Aslan: Yes I used the original gearbox from the 2L, both engine block`s are identical , so there will be no problem using the 2.4 gearbox on the 2L :)

Looks like I managed to uplode more images after all, just not in the same post :)










 

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Discussion Starter #7
some more photos of work during the port and polish, some bearing checks with plastigauge etc









































 

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Thank you very much Lid'en. I really appreciate your responding so quickly. I have another question that I raised in another post, but I haven't had any response yet. In your opinion do you think it is possible to remove and replace the transfer case whilst the engine and gearbox are still in the car?
Maybe one day I'll do the engine swap as well. My Rav has only done 160,000kms. Have you noticed much difference in fuel consumption yet?
 

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I love those detailed photos, but mostly I love that rebuild. I wonder how much that cost you time and money.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Aslan: Yes I belive it`s possible to remove only the transfer case , I think that if you want to take down the gearbox with the engine remaining in the car, you have to take off the transfe case first. It was a PITA to get the complete gearbox and tf case on to the new engine when the whole thing was out of the car. So I would imagine that this is almost impossible with the engine still in the car. I think there are some gaskets and O- rings betwene the trans case and gearbox to keep the oils from blending, but I`m not sure. I have never taken mine apart.
The fuel consumption is about the same I think, if not lower depending on the driving. With the 2L I had to step in it all the time to get up hills, but with the 2.4 is pulling at low rpm`s and do not stress, so I dont have to use as much pedal and can drive at lower rpm`s :) We have a under-sea tunnel witch is very steep. with the old engine I had to use third gear an almost redlining the engine to maintain the speed, with the new I can use fifth gear and no "pedal to the metal" and it holds the speed, and the car continues to accelerate if I floor it.

Ahya728: I got the engine very cheap ( 5500,- NOK ) so in part`s ( cams, springs, gaskets, etc ) it has cost me about 15.000,- NOK in total i guess. The work has been for free ( exept some pizza for my helping friends when we did the swap :p )
 

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Thanks Lid'en. Keep us posted. I will keep an eye on a cheap 2AZ engine that I could recondition and do the swap later. Your posts have been very encouraging.
 

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Looking at doing this swap now that my GF's 1AZ-FE has a thrown connecting rod bearing, beat-up crank and signs of poor oiling at some point in the valvetrain.

Liden, did you have to swap anything other than the engine? The intake, exhaust and computer should all be reused from the 1AZ, from what I have read.

Are there any differences in flywheels - M/T v. A/T, AWD v. FWD, 1AZ v. 2AZ?

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hi pkramer

The 2AZ engine I got my hands on had the same intake and exhaust manifold as my 1AZ, but it depends on what car model you get your engine from. But there is no problem bolting these things over from your old 1AZ over to the 2AZ. You can use the original 1AZ computer, this works without any problems ( but works best with the 2AZ computer since this is programmed for a bigger engine, but this means youl need some programing done to make it fit your car ),
I recomend using the injectors from the 2AZ since these have another partnumber and probably have larger capacity then the 1AZ injectors. the rest of the sensors ( coil, MAF, speedsensors, fulepump etc ) have the samepartnumbers on both engines.

Also you have to check the timing cover where you bolt on the engine mount, I had to change mine on the 2AZ to a 1AZ cover,

There is difference in flywheels on M/T vs A/T , on the A/T you have only a starter plate where the converter is bolted to, my 2AZ was original from a car with A/T, but the flywheel from my 1AZ bolted right on. Not sure if there is any difference in the 1AZ vs 2AZ M/T flywheel.

Hope this helps
 

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Thanks, yes, that is extremely helpful! I was waiting, hoping for a response before I hit the "BUY" button, but I went ahead and purchased a used JDM 2AZ-FE yesterday.

I don't know what model it came from, but it's pretty much complete, except of course for the intake and exhaust. It even has the serpentine-driven accessories which is a bonus, but of course will create more work if the front cover needs to be swapped out.

Your information gives me confidence that I did the right thing!

The 1AZ was just a dog in this car (2002, AT, AWD), and I really wanted to have the 2AZ but couldn't rationalize spending the $ for it.

Heh - now I'm forced to put something in there!

How do you program an ECU? I know Hondata makes software for reconfiguring Honda ECU's, is there a similar program available for Toyotas?

Thanks again!
 

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Got the engine, waiting for my guy to return from family reunion to do the swap.

Has anyone attempted relocating the air intake from the top of the engine (who does that?) to the side, like Toyota finally did in 2006?
 

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This was quite the undertaking! I used to wrench on my own cars but this is light years beyond my capabilities when at my best. Well done & sorry that you had to pull the head off again due to the oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pkramer:
You are lucky to get a complete engine with accessories :) just compare the side cover engine mount with your engine to see if you need to swap this out.
About the air intake, do you mean to delete the original air-intake box and make a short ram air intake or cold air intake with an open cone filter? This is no problem, but you need a air pipe with adapter for the MAF sensor. You can buy these kits from K&N etc.
I don`t know how to program the original ECU, probably need some Software tuning firm to make a program for the car. So if you don`t want to use the stock 1AZ ECU, I guess the simplest thing is to buy a ECU for the 2AZ and get a local Toyota dealer to install it / code the immobilizer system.
But again, it works great with the stock 1AZ ECU. so its not a "must" to change it.

RTexasF
Thanx ! :) but it was not a oil leak from the cylinder head, but from the engine block where you take it appart to get the crankshaft out.
 

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Great thread and very interesting. This is something i have wanted to do for a while. Will you get through the EU controll with the 2az installed?

If you hear of another engine for sale id certainly be interested in it :D
 

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Lid`en - I just saw your 8/28 post today. Thought I was subscribed to this thread.

Actually, many of the 1az parts had to be reused because the electrical connectors would not mate - he reused the entire fuel rail and alternator for that reason. He did, in fact, have to swap front covers, for the engine mount accommodation. He may have used the new P/S pump and A/C compressor; he was talking about just rotating them out of the way to install the cover and save time that way, but he had so many little issues that I lost track of them all.

Compounded by the fact that he didn't tighten the harmonic balancer adequately and it came loose, broke, threw the serpentine belt while my GF was driving it. And continue driving it, she did, until white smoke poured out from the M/C.

I had bought our second 2nd gen RAV just the day before - a 2005 with 149K miles - and a 2AZ installed at the factory. :)

We got the 2002 back from the mechanic last night - it seems to have averted death again, thank God.

However - and this was present immediately after the swap - when the engine is warm, the idle is high - around 2K. It sort of surges when approaching a stop, as the transmission downshifts. My 2005 is MUCH smoother.

Any ideas about the cause of the warm high idle? ECU mismatch? Dirty IACV? He reused the original intake, and there weren't any idle issues with it when it was attached to the 1AZ.

My air intake question was to see if there is a way to get the intake off the top of the hot engine!
 

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High idle resolved - he swapped in the original TB and - voila - no more high idle.

No idea what is up with the new TB, but since there was an extra one around, it was easier to swap them then to take apart, clean, reinstall, take apart, rediagnose, etc., etc., etc.
 
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