DIY Alarm/Starter Install (99 RAV4 4Dr) Correct INFO 5Speed

If a mod wants to sticky this I think this could help others with installs in the future.
[Moderator Comment: Consider it done!]

So there doesn't seem to be any complete solid info on the wiring and installation of an alarm starter into the 98-99 RAV4's. There is most of it, but with all the sources I found online including searching rav4world forums they all had errors. After successfully installing my compustar 2way alarm/starter into my RAV4 I figured I'd share the info for any future DIY's. Installing an alarm starter into a vehicle as old as these generation RAV4's is really quite simple, no immobilizer bypass is needed so it just takes time and basic wiring knowledge and a good wiring guide. There is no reason to pay out the a** to get someone else to install one for you if youre on the fence.

The most correct, updated info I found was from the website www.the12volt.com

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/alarmdetail/2119.html

with their guide I was able to piece together the install and correct the few errors to make my version of the wiring guide for a 5speed with some additional details to get the remote starter to work:

1999 Toyota Rav4 Alarm, Remote Starter, Keyless Entry Wiring Information

Constant 12V+
White
Inner Fuse Panel (Dual thick white wires on a single grey plug)

Starter
Red (Automatic) or Black/Gray Dots (small wire)
Ignition Switch Harness (this is where things don't work for the remote starter installs on the 98-99 RAV4's. Not sure if this is the same with the 96-97 but I assume it likely is. Normally the ignition switch starter wire is a thick gauge wire that goes directly to the starter from the ignition switch assembly. Remote starters for manual vehicles bypass the need to depress the clutch to start by energizing the starter directly through the remote start unit, hence why the starter wires coming off the compustar brain are so thick; necessary to provide the current the starter needs. However with the 1999 RAV4 the starter circuit involves a solenoid later on down the line, so the small gauge wire all the online sources refer to directly off the ignition assembly, is only a signal that when paired with the clutch pedal control the high current circuit needed to engage the starter. So there are two ways to get around this. I took the quick and dirty way because when I installed the alarm starter it was -20C out and the little electric heater in my buddy's garage just wasn't cutting it. I'll likely rewire it the correct way later on down the road with warmer temps. So to get around the clutch problem I simply unplugged the lower clutch switch and jumped the two pints with a bent paperclip,the upper clutch switch is left untouched. This allows you to wire into the ignition starter signal wire and everything will work as desired. To wire it properly you need to extend the starter wire coming off the compustar brain and extend it to the thicker gauge wire that is connected directly to the starter, bypassing the starter solenoid circuitry. This clutch bypass switch has no ill affecton cruise control or any other vehicle functionality other than eliminating the need to depress the clutch to start the vehicle. And anyone who drives stick already knows to check the gear is in neutral and depress the clutch to start by habit so no biggie.

Ignition
Black/White (I didnt hook up to the ignition from the compustar to this one. To do it properly you need to use the 2nd ignition connection. again it was freezing i just wanted it working)
Ignition Switch Harness (Small Wire)

Ignition 2
Black/Yellow (I hooked up the compustar igntion to this one. This actually allows the vehicle to start but the blower motor doesnt energize until the key is in. I actually like this as it gives the vehicle time to generate heat so when I get in its blowing hot air, vs blowing and dissipating the engine heat during warm up)
Ignition Switch Harness (Small Wire)

Accessory
Blue/Red
Ignition Switch Harness (Small Wire)

Tach
Black
White Connector plugged into ignition Coil Driver's Side of Engine (coilpacks only used for 98-99) spark plug wires are plugged into the coil packs if you dont know what to look for

Brake Switch
Green/White
4 Wire plug located above the brake pedal assembly. White plug plugged into blue housing in my case.

Trunk Pin
Red/White (-) (didnt use in my setup will confirm later)
Orange Connector above Fuses in the Inner fuse panel

Parking Lights
Green (+)
Upper most Gray Connector on the left side of the inner fuse panel

Head Lamp
Red/White (-) (didnt use in my setup)
Steering Column

Door Trigger
Red/Yellow (-)F
Red/White (-)R (supposedly also catches trunk trigger pin)
Lowest Gray connector beneath relays beside yellow connector located behind kickpanel.

Door Lock
Blue/White (-)
Driver's Kick Blue Connector Negative Trigger( i used this one) or at Lock Module behind Glove Compartment (unconfirmed)

Door Unlock
Blue/Yellow (-)
Driver's Kick Blue Connector Negative Trigger( i used this one) or at Lock Module behind Glove Compartment (unconfirmed)


To remove the kickpanel, use a flat head to pry up the lower plastic door sill held in by clips, then you can unbolt the one nut and the kickpanel can be pulled off from its clips as well.

Also to disable my factory toyota alarm I made sure it was disarmed and unplugged the connector closest to the firewall/engine. I tested the factory remotes to confirm the system was disabled.

I think that's it. I may revise or update if I realize I forgot anything. Any questions are welcome I'll do my best to advise. May add pictures later if I get around to it. Cheers guys!

And great forums btw, I have only had my RAV for about a month. Picked it up for a winter vehicle and its awesome! Now with the remote start and winter tires it's a winter ready machine!