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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)


This DIY is for people who'd like to install a keyless entry in a Rav that has not already been equipped with either a factory or aftermarket keyless entry or alarm. You can do this either for convenience, or as in this case, it is also a cheap, easy work-around for a picky driver's door lock.


If your power locks still work fine, but your driver's door lock cylinder is finicky or won't lock/unlock with the key, you can install a keyless entry instead of replacing the lock cylinder (and having to get a new key, etc).​


Example:

My sister's '99 L (aka "Blackeye") came with factory power locks, but did not come with a factory keyless entry or alarm system; also, there was never an aftermarket unit installed. Therefore, locking and unlocking the doors has always been done with the key.

Due to some 18 years of daily wear, the driver's door lock cylinder has gotten very persnickety. It will sometimes unlock if the key is inserted a certain way, IF the key is a particular very sharp key, and IF you say "please". Thus, it is unreliable and so my sister has been using the passenger door to unlock the other doors.

Since this is impractical, I thought about swapping out the locks...but then I thought, "Wait, since the Rav doesn't have a keyless installed, it should be pretty straightforward to install one - right?" And guess what? I looked on Amazon last week and found this kit, for $12.99 shipped!

Docooler Car Remote Central Locking Keyless Entry System with Remote Controllers (the price has since moved up a little to $14.64 shipped)

I ordered it, and it came on Friday, so I got to work on it yesterday. This DIY documents what I did. It was very easy to install, and works perfectly! The remotes are sturdy and nice-looking, too.

Here is a picture from Amazon:



The kit I got was marked "K410". In the kit, you get the controller, two remotes (with batteries), and all the wires you need. The remotes are pre-programmed to the unit. You get installation instructions, but they are pretty confusing if you don't know what you're looking for. For reference, here are the installation instructions, with my notes (its one page, front and back):






Luckily, there is enough information on the internet to make the install smooth. The following steps show how I did this install on a '99 Rav4. Here are some important considerations before you start:


1.) This install will only work on a Toyota that hasn't had a factory installed alarm or an aftermarket alarm, especially if the alarm has a kill-switch or anything like that. If you're wiring doesn't look like the pictures you see below, then you might have some kind of system installed and not know it. You can call Toyota with your VIN and they will tell you over the phone whether or not the car had a factory install. However, they wouldn't be able to tell if there was any aftermarket work. So be certain that you don't have a system before you try this.

2.) Toyotas use the "type-B negative" trigger. You can view that in the circled configuration above.

3.) These kits generally come with other features, such as flashing the parking lights when you unlock the doors. I only am using the lock/unlock feature, so that is all you will be see here. Adding the parking lights just requires you to track down the wires and tap them like you see here.

4.) Use all the standard safety precautions while working with wiring. Keep track of your metal tools. You'll notice that I disconnect the battery alot! Better safe than sorry.

5.) The harness and wire colors may vary by country or some other reason, so verify this with your own research and multimeter.​


TOOLS:

Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket or wrench
Electrical Tape
Wire stripper/crimper (or you can improvise)
Small zip-ties
One medium u-shaped connecter/terminal (not absolutely necessary, but worth tracking down, something like this)



STEPS:


1.) Remove the kick panel door trim. You can pull it up with you fingers on the inside part, and it will unclip from the three red clips shown below. Also remove the foot panel (not shown), which just pull out once the kick panel is removed (sometimes there is a little black cap that you have to pull out). Remove the panel under the steering wheel as shown below, then then the metal part behind it.







2.) Inspect the wiring. Look at the pictures below -- one shows my sister's '99 that has no system installed, and the other shows my '00 that has a factory system. Make sure you don't have an alarm system!








3.) Disconnect the Blue 16-pin harness shown. After this is disconnected, your power locks should stop working. If they still work with this disconnected, then this part of the DIY will not work for you. (You will have to search out where your lock/unlock wires are, and then use that instead.)







4.) Look at the Blue harness, and you will find two thin wires, next to each other, that are Blue/White and Blue/Yellow. Look at the picture below. These are the wires that you will tie into for locking and unlocking the doors. Please note that there is a second, thicker Blue/White wire in this same harness -- don't use that one. Use the Blue/White that's next to the Blue/Yellow.





5.) Label the controller wires. You will have a bunch of wires that you're not using if you are just installing the lock/unlock function. The wires will be connected as follows:


White on Controller --> Blue White on Harness (lock)
White/Black on Controller --> Blue/Yellow on Harness (unlock)
Red on Controller --> a constant 12v source in the car, or to the battery
Yellow, Yellow/Black, and Black -- > all tied to ground
Not used: Orange, Orange/Black, Browns, Green.​





6.) Disconnect the battery on the Rav.



7.) Locate the ground. You should see a nice bolt directly into the body, like this:





8.) Splice the Controller's Yellow, Yellow/Black, and Black wires together. These will all be grounded. Use a u-shaped connector/terminal block/cable lug to get a good ground (crimp it well). Slide the u-shaped connector under the ground bolt and tighten the bolt well.








9.) Splice the lock and unlock wires to the harness's lock and unlock wires. Review the suggested splicing method below to tie these wires. Do not cut the harness wires -- just strip the wire about an inch, and follow the method shown below, or if you have a better way, do that.

Splice the Controller's White wire to the Harness's Blue/White, and the Controller's White/Black to the Harness's Blue/Yellow.








10.) Connect to the a 12V constant power supply. In the Rav, there are several spots to do this. I picked the 12v constant by the fuse box. It is the thick, White wire in the picture below. I tied into it using the T-splice shown above.




11.) Plug in the Blue 16-pin harness (it will click when properly seated). Connect the battery. Test the system -- you should be in business! If not, double-check your ground connection, and that your harness is connected properly. If not that, double check your splices.


12.) Double-check all your connections. Select a spot to mount the Controller. I found that I could wrap a zip-tie around the Controller like a belt, then zip-tie it to the metal bracket shown below.




13.) Wrap up your loose wires and clean up the space. Take a final look and it will be something like this:




Now you can replace your panels and enjoy the keyless entry!

Final notes: I noticed with one of the remotes that the button part got stuck under the plastic when I pressed it the first few times, and so them the remote wouldn't work -- the blue led on it wouldn't lite up and it wasn't sending a signal to the Controller. I popped the remote open using a dime, and just repositioned the rubber button part, and it work fine after that. Overall, I am VERY pleased with the price and quality of the system, and I really like the remotes. I would buy this system again.

Please add any comments that would be useful, especially if you see something here that doesn't look right! Thanks

 

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Good!

Some of the instructions look like the Bulldog KE1702's. Bulldog is/was by a2c -- any indications that Docooler is by the same company? The remotes' reliability, and the plastic box of the KE1702's controller, received complaints, including from me ...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hey LugNut -- yes, I used the Bulldog Security's instructions for the splice, if you recognize those splicing diagrams -- good eye!

I really don't know who in China makes the kit, or by what other names it sells. There wasn't much information included, but in my opinion the controller case and remotes seemed to be of pretty good quality (especially for $12!). The unit wasn't even in a box -- it was is a clear plastic bag, which was shipped to me within a manila bubble wrap envelope. But I would buy it again, and I plan to install one on my other sister's '01 the next time I can (she's in another state).

A quick note: One Amazon reviewer said that he "HAD" to use the remotes to unlock/lock the doors, and if he used the power switches on the car it would confuse the unit in some way .... but I can assure you that didn't have this trouble at all. I could use either the remote or the switch -- the remote just wouldn't do anything if, for example, you pressed "unlock" on the remote, and the doors were already unlocked. But if you pressed lock, it would certainly lock them. So, perhaps our Toyota's using the negative trigger means that this isn't a problem for us (since there's no signal on positive?)

I think I'll go ahead and tap the parking light function the next time I have my sister's car. If I do, I'll update this post with those wire locations.
 

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I have the same exact keyless entry and have it installed nearly identical lol. I know you said you didn't hook up your lights with it but I've been trying to find which "green (+)" any page talks about connecting to. They state it's at the grey connector above the fuses to the left, when I check the connector it has like 5 green wires so I'm not sure which to use or if it even the right plug
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I have the same exact keyless entry and have it installed nearly identical lol. I know you said you didn't hook up your lights with it but I've been trying to find which "green (+)" any page talks about connecting to. They state it's at the grey connector above the fuses to the left, when I check the connector it has like 5 green wires so I'm not sure which to use or if it even the right plug
Blitzerr -- thanks for the information! I will have my sister's car back some time next week, and I'll take a look at that time. I'll post an update here.
 

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So I was ended up purchasing a voltage tester and started probing around at each individual wire at the connector directing underneath the directional switch. What I found is green / yellow and green / black both flashed so I hooked one brown wire from the keyless entry to g/y and one to g/b. Bingo! Now have lights signaling doors are locked or unlocked. Hope this helps anyone installing a keyless entry unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So I was ended up purchasing a voltage tester and started probing around at each individual wire at the connector directing underneath the directional switch. What I found is green / yellow and green / black both flashed so I hooked one brown wire from the keyless entry to g/y and one to g/b. Bingo! Now have lights signaling doors are locked or unlocked. Hope this helps anyone installing a keyless entry unit.
Sweet! Thanks, Blitzerr! I had the car but didn't have time to work on that yet -- I'll have it again this week, and I'll hook those lights up, as well. Thanks a bunch!
 

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This was really helpful when doing my 2000 rav4. I actually am having the issue of only being able to use the fib, as my power lock buttons are not operating at all. Also, have you found a way to do the lights and horn yet? I am still trying my best to figure that out but I cannot find anything.

Thanks,

Jack
 

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Success! I followed the walkthrough to the "T" and everything worked. I did run into trouble when I was stripping the cable cover of the blue/yellow wire and accidentally snipped it :confused: had to reattach with a butt connecter and splice-in further down the line.

Only had time to do the unlock/lock feature, but will probably go back in and tap into the lights to also get that feature. Thanks!
 

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This is a very helpful write-up. Many thanks to demoder. Comments/questions:

1. The bracket used to zip-tie the controller, in these photos of a 1999 model, is missing in my 1997 or else I couldn't see it. Instead, I zip-tied the controller behind the A/C duct running under the instrument panel, with the wires emerging toward the left side for adequate length.

2. Incredibly -- I am not making this up -- after removing the kick panel door trim (Step 1), an old-style hundred-dollar bill was tucked underneath it. This vehicle was purchased from a dealer three weeks ago. Good karma!

013.JPG


3. Blitzerr91 mentions hooking the brown wires from the controller to the green/yellow and green/black wires of the RAV4 to activate the lock and unlock flash functions. The RAV4 wiring diagram indicates that green/black activates left-hand front and back turn signals, while green/yellow activates right-hand front and back turn signals.

So if I understood correctly, it would flash the left-hand lights once upon locking, and the right-hand lights twice upon unlocking (or vice versa, with the sides switched).

Didn't have time to investigate, but I would only want to connect the lights if all four corners flash simultaneously. Has anyone else tried this? Thanks.
 

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This is a very helpful write-up. Many thanks to demoder. Comments/questions:

1. The bracket used to zip-tie the controller, in these photos of a 1999 model, is missing in my 1997 or else I couldn't see it. Instead, I zip-tied the controller behind the A/C duct running under the instrument panel, with the wires emerging toward the left side for adequate length.

2. Incredibly -- I am not making this up -- after removing the kick panel door trim (Step 1), an old-style hundred-dollar bill was tucked underneath it. This vehicle was purchased from a dealer three weeks ago. Good karma!

View attachment 145746

3. Blitzerr91 mentions hooking the brown wires from the controller to the green/yellow and green/black wires of the RAV4 to activate the lock and unlock flash functions. The RAV4 wiring diagram indicates that green/black activates left-hand front and back turn signals, while green/yellow activates right-hand front and back turn signals.

So if I understood correctly, it would flash the left-hand lights once upon locking, and the right-hand lights twice upon unlocking (or vice versa, with the sides switched).

Didn't have time to investigate, but I would only want to connect the lights if all four corners flash simultaneously. Has anyone else tried this? Thanks.
WHAT! I remove a kick panel and find an old can of hairspray and you get a Benjamin!? This made my day! lol
 

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First post - thanks for sharing this - bought the exact kit, will install it over the weekend hopefully in my 96. Def plan to connect the headlight wires as well while I am in there. Will report back. Down the line with this 4.1, if I keep it and use it more often, I'd like to install an actual alarm. It's just such an easy target without one. But for now, at 15 bucks and 30 minutes of my time, this will be way cool. The simple things in life..
 

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Welcome! I actually just bought my kit too. Its waiting until I get some spare time to install. Let us know how it goes!
Thanks! Mine is set to arrive today and if nothing comes up tonight or tomorrow I should have it installed. Did you consider buying any other kits instead? I had my eye on a couple others, but to keep things simple, I just grabbed this one. Read a review stating the remote is identical to some that came with Hyundai's at some point..only thing that turned me off, apparently not enough.

If you get to your install before I do, report back!
 

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To be honest, I bought this kit purely because demoder made this thread and walkthrough. I dont have as much time as I used to to figure things out, and seeing as her installed car was a 99 just like mine, the choice was easy. However, I actually found this thread and bookmarked it just before I even got my Rav last year.
 

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Well I just dove into this, and although it is simple, I am hesitating on a couple things:

How do I manage to strip back a 1 inch portion of wire on the toyota harness when the wire is already connected? I tried cutting into the rubber and pulling it back to one side but it doesn't budge. Basically I am unsure how to strip back a one inch portion on a wire that is already connected...same will go for the 12v once I get there..

Anyone can help?
 

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I suppose I could use an exacto knife to try and cut it length wise to peel off? Watched a couple videos of folks doing that but the wires are so small, my eyes aren't great and I have big somewhat arthritic hands. Not a good combo. LOL.

Put the project off for the evening as I have friends over..
 
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