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DIY oil change

2938 Views 31 Replies 16 Participants Last post by  JFox562
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
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Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
Good job. It is satisfiing to do things right and for yourself. No question in your mind that it was done correctly is worth something in itself . Now that you have all the tools why not keep doing it in the future ?
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If you find it hard to get down there, grab yourself a pair of ramps. I got mine from harbor freight for 50 bucks and they’re rated for twice what the RAV4 weighs. makes oil changes a breeze.

I do all my own oil changes. Got tired of places using the wrong oil, crap filter, over-tightening my drain plug, not replacing the gasket cuz it’s stuck cuz they held an impact gun to the plug for like twenty seconds last time, overfilling the oil, I could go on and on and on. Why would I pay 40k for a car and then pay to have it beat up by deadbeat billy and his entourage of saboteurs in sweatpants? Didn’t make a lick of sense to me.
I ensure that my oil level is exactly on the dot. Toyota genuine oil, 0w-16. Toyota genuine oil filter, 90915-YZZN1. Toyota genuine crush washer. Drain plug tightened to 30 pounds per feet. Plastic skid plate not overtightened. All OEM parts, per OEM specifications, all under my direct control. And 1/3rd of the price. I’m not gonna upsell myself a new cabin air filter, engine air filter, friggin antifreeze Jesus Christ I can’t even imagine taking it anywhere for an oil change but my garage.
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Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
DIY oil changes while the car is under warranty means if something happens to the engine Toyota will have an excuse to deny warranty.
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DIY oil changes while the car is under warranty means if something happens to the engine Toyota will have an excuse to deny warranty.
They would have to prove you damaged the engine first, by using incorrect fluid or incorrect filter, etc...The main benefit of DIY isn't to save costs but ensuring it's done properly. Many mechanics and dealers will 'forget' to change the filter, crush washer, or they overtighten the filter and/or drain plug. + Many dealers are using 0W-20 when they should be using 0W-16.

The RAV4 has very nice jackpoints at the front and back. Get a floor jack and a pair jack stands. Home Depot has this bundle for a 3-ton low profile + jackstands for only $180. Harbor Freight has good deals on the Daytona and Pittsburgh jacks sometimes.


Install a Fumoto valve or Stahlbus or EZDrain and you won't have to worry about, changing rush washers, using a torque wrench or stripped threads. The ones with a nipple are even better since you can drain the oil directly into a container. Then the only messy part will be installing the oil filter.
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DIY oil changes while the car is under warranty means if something happens to the engine Toyota will have an excuse to deny warranty.
Have never heard that one before. My car hasn't been to the dealer at all for nothing since I bought it 5 years ago outside of having an alignment done. Didn't even use the Toyota Care oil changes. Actually none of my vehicles have ever been to the dealer for any maintenance outside of recalls or warranty issues since new. One vehicle it was a leaking transmission gasket. The other it was a leaking oil pan gasket. The last time I had a car in the dealer or any shop for any mechanical work was probably 1995.

If your car is too low to crawl under buy 4 ramps. I honestly can change the oil on mine with all four tires on the ground. Transmission service I use 4 ramps for the added hight and being able to see everything clearly to pull the pan and filter. I never understood the 2 ramp thing to change your oil. Your car isn't level.
They would have to prove you damaged the engine first, by using incorrect fluid or incorrect filter, etc...
Yes and you will also need to provide receipts and proof of the correct oil and filter were used that meet the requirement.
Yes and you will also need to provide receipts and proof of the correct oil and filter were used that meet the requirement.
Which shouldn't be a problem, if you keep all your receipts and maintenance records as you should be. Even easier if you order it all online.
DIY oil changes while the car is under warranty means if something happens to the engine Toyota will have an excuse to deny warranty.
This is simply untrue if you keep maintenance records and receipts.
Thanks for your replies-

Tacoslilfriend – You are right, it is satisfying to do it and know it was done right. My next oil change is probably October. I just might do it again. Don’t forget the first time you have to think about each step. I have to figure out a way to go minimize the number of times you crawl under the truck. I think I did it at least 6 times and getting up is harder – it’s the age thing.

aVyDe – I used 2x6 wooden planks to raise it up 4 inches, another. You summarized the dealer issues pretty good. I went to the dealer just 2x with my Rav4 and I had enough. Question for you, I drained the oil first, then I took off the filter. Can I take the filter off first? The problem was after the oil was drained the pan was almost full and if the filter falls in there it would splash the oil out.

DL175 – not an issue, you don’t need dealer oils changes to maintain warranty.

Paul894 – Correct. And yes it’s not about the cost. I need it done right. Question: where do you put the jack stands in order not to damage anything? As for the drain valve, it looks like the thread is quite long and it seems to me that not all of the oil will drain out.

SLS Artemis – That’s great if you can take care of your cars by yourself. For the 2 ramp thing, helps let all the oil drain out it it’s slightly inclined towards the back.
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Paul894 – Correct. And yes it’s not about the cost. I need it done right. Question: where do you put the jack stands in order not to damage anything? As for the drain valve, it looks like the thread is quite long and it seems to me that not all of the oil will drain out.
IMO if you follow the 5,000 mile/6 month interval then it shouldn't really matter if you get every last drop out. If you're concerned about sediment accumulating on the bottom near the threads then it's very simple to remove and reinstall the valve with an adjustable wrench, especially since the torque specs are only about half that of a standard drain plug. Just make sure you replace the crush washer afterward. (According to their website the threads don't stick into the pan.)


Here's a video showing how to jack up the RAV4 as well as the jack points using 4 jack stands, this channel has a lot of helpful videos on the 5th Gen. You can buy rubber pads for the jack puck + jackstands on Amazon.

SLS Artemis – That’s great if you can take care of your cars by yourself. For the 2 ramp thing, helps let all the oil drain out it it’s slightly inclined towards the back.
That was my point in not understanding the two ramp thing when changing your oil. All of it doesn't drain out. You get more of it out level than you do at an incline. That is why when changing any fluids in your vehicle they recommend it being level and not at an incline. Some fluids it is more critical than others to have the vehicle level.
The factory calls for 30 foot pounds for the drain plug. In this case it won't strip anything since the pan is steel, but I have seen instances of stripped drain plug holes in other vehicles that call for similar torque. In reality, 10 to 15 foot pounds is plenty.
That was my point in not understanding the two ramp thing when changing your oil. All of it doesn't drain out. You get more of it out level than you do at an incline. That is why when changing any fluids in your vehicle they recommend it being level and not at an incline. Some fluids it is more critical than others to have the vehicle level.
Please explain your thought process about changing the oil with the car been flat Vs front wheels beening elevated more oil draining out.
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Here's a video showing how to jack up the RAV4 as well as the jack points using 4 jack stands, this channel has a lot of helpful videos on the 5th Gen. You can buy rubber pads for the jack puck + jackstands on Amazon.

[/QUOTE]

I watched the 4 jack stand video and I think this is not right. Outright dangerous.
I would not do that. First, who has 4 jacks, and second most tires are directional
and have to stay on the same side and not cross over. But if you have to do it you can always put the spare tire in play for the rotation.
I watched the 4 jack stand video and I think this is not right. Outright dangerous.
I would not do that. First, who has 4 jacks, and second most tires are directional
and have to stay on the same side and not cross over. But if you have to do it you can always put the spare tire in play for the rotation.
For your oil changes you'll obviously only need two, I posted the video to show the jack points and jack stands points as requested. Using a 3-ton floor jack + four matching jackstands on level ground is perfectly fine.
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For your oil changes you'll obviously only need two, I posted the video to show the jack points and jack stands points as requested. Using a 3-ton floor jack + four matching jackstands on level ground is perfectly fine.
Understood. I noticed that two notches for a jack stand close to the wheel. Did not see that before. When I do my winter/summer tire changeover I always use the jack point on the axles. Quite convenient, like this I can do both front wheels and then rear wheels at the same time. To raise my Rav4 for the oil change I used two 2x6 wooden planks for an increased height of about 4 inches. Two more inches would be better. I have 2 jack stands that I could have used ..now I know, thanks. If I decide to do more DIY oil changes I’ll buy some ramps.
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Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
Have a 2021 RAV4 Prime XSE w/6.6kW charger. It will come off the 2yr. warranty in August.

Last oil change at the dealership, they overfilled it by 1.5 quarts! After they took the first quart out, it was still almost half an inch above the top dipstick mark. They tried to tell me that this was OK because if they ran the engine and then checked the oil, it was only .25" above the mark, which they said was acceptable. I pointed out that the top mark is called the "Overfill" line, that I always check oil after the vehicle sits overnight and that I wanted another .5 qt. taken out!

Sheesh!
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I too have been changing oil in my family cars for the last 45 years. It's not that hard and you'll know it's done correctly. And cheaper. And it's satisfying to button it up and know you did it. Plus you don't waste a morning at the dealer waiting and dodging upsells. Use Mobil 1 and haven't had an engine failure yet! The only hassle is disposing the oil. Wait for the county's annual haz waste recycling events. I keep receipts, have a log, and buy factory filters during the warranty period. When doing the oil, I also check the bottom of the engine and transmission, and make sure panels, underbody protectors, etc are tight. And I clean out any accumulated leaves and mud. If there's any rust, it gets a dose of rust reformer.
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