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DIY oil change

7K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  4x4ken 
#1 ·
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
 
#2 ·
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
Good job. It is satisfiing to do things right and for yourself. No question in your mind that it was done correctly is worth something in itself . Now that you have all the tools why not keep doing it in the future ?
 
#3 ·
If you find it hard to get down there, grab yourself a pair of ramps. I got mine from harbor freight for 50 bucks and they’re rated for twice what the RAV4 weighs. makes oil changes a breeze.

I do all my own oil changes. Got tired of places using the wrong oil, crap filter, over-tightening my drain plug, not replacing the gasket cuz it’s stuck cuz they held an impact gun to the plug for like twenty seconds last time, overfilling the oil, I could go on and on and on. Why would I pay 40k for a car and then pay to have it beat up by deadbeat billy and his entourage of saboteurs in sweatpants? Didn’t make a lick of sense to me.
I ensure that my oil level is exactly on the dot. Toyota genuine oil, 0w-16. Toyota genuine oil filter, 90915-YZZN1. Toyota genuine crush washer. Drain plug tightened to 30 pounds per feet. Plastic skid plate not overtightened. All OEM parts, per OEM specifications, all under my direct control. And 1/3rd of the price. I’m not gonna upsell myself a new cabin air filter, engine air filter, friggin antifreeze Jesus Christ I can’t even imagine taking it anywhere for an oil change but my garage.
 
#4 ·
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
DIY oil changes while the car is under warranty means if something happens to the engine Toyota will have an excuse to deny warranty.
 
#5 ·
They would have to prove you damaged the engine first, by using incorrect fluid or incorrect filter, etc...The main benefit of DIY isn't to save costs but ensuring it's done properly. Many mechanics and dealers will 'forget' to change the filter, crush washer, or they overtighten the filter and/or drain plug. + Many dealers are using 0W-20 when they should be using 0W-16.

The RAV4 has very nice jackpoints at the front and back. Get a floor jack and a pair jack stands. Home Depot has this bundle for a 3-ton low profile + jackstands for only $180. Harbor Freight has good deals on the Daytona and Pittsburgh jacks sometimes.


Install a Fumoto valve or Stahlbus or EZDrain and you won't have to worry about, changing rush washers, using a torque wrench or stripped threads. The ones with a nipple are even better since you can drain the oil directly into a container. Then the only messy part will be installing the oil filter.
 
#10 ·
Thanks for your replies-

Tacoslilfriend – You are right, it is satisfying to do it and know it was done right. My next oil change is probably October. I just might do it again. Don’t forget the first time you have to think about each step. I have to figure out a way to go minimize the number of times you crawl under the truck. I think I did it at least 6 times and getting up is harder – it’s the age thing.

aVyDe – I used 2x6 wooden planks to raise it up 4 inches, another. You summarized the dealer issues pretty good. I went to the dealer just 2x with my Rav4 and I had enough. Question for you, I drained the oil first, then I took off the filter. Can I take the filter off first? The problem was after the oil was drained the pan was almost full and if the filter falls in there it would splash the oil out.

DL175 – not an issue, you don’t need dealer oils changes to maintain warranty.

Paul894 – Correct. And yes it’s not about the cost. I need it done right. Question: where do you put the jack stands in order not to damage anything? As for the drain valve, it looks like the thread is quite long and it seems to me that not all of the oil will drain out.

SLS Artemis – That’s great if you can take care of your cars by yourself. For the 2 ramp thing, helps let all the oil drain out it it’s slightly inclined towards the back.
Automotive tire Automotive design Gas Bumper Table
 
#11 · (Edited)
Paul894 – Correct. And yes it’s not about the cost. I need it done right. Question: where do you put the jack stands in order not to damage anything? As for the drain valve, it looks like the thread is quite long and it seems to me that not all of the oil will drain out.
IMO if you follow the 5,000 mile/6 month interval then it shouldn't really matter if you get every last drop out. If you're concerned about sediment accumulating on the bottom near the threads then it's very simple to remove and reinstall the valve with an adjustable wrench, especially since the torque specs are only about half that of a standard drain plug. Just make sure you replace the crush washer afterward. (According to their website the threads don't stick into the pan.)


Here's a video showing how to jack up the RAV4 as well as the jack points using 4 jack stands, this channel has a lot of helpful videos on the 5th Gen. You can buy rubber pads for the jack puck + jackstands on Amazon.

 
#16 ·
......
Here's a video showing how to jack up the RAV4 as well as the jack points using 4 jack stands, this channel has a lot of helpful videos on the 5th Gen. You can buy rubber pads for the jack puck + jackstands on Amazon.


[/QUOTE]

I watched the 4 jack stand video and I think this is not right. Outright dangerous.
I would not do that. First, who has 4 jacks, and second most tires are directional
and have to stay on the same side and not cross over. But if you have to do it you can always put the spare tire in play for the rotation.
 
#17 ·
I watched the 4 jack stand video and I think this is not right. Outright dangerous.
I would not do that. First, who has 4 jacks, and second most tires are directional
and have to stay on the same side and not cross over. But if you have to do it you can always put the spare tire in play for the rotation.
For your oil changes you'll obviously only need two, I posted the video to show the jack points and jack stands points as requested. Using a 3-ton floor jack + four matching jackstands on level ground is perfectly fine.
 
#19 ·
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
Have a 2021 RAV4 Prime XSE w/6.6kW charger. It will come off the 2yr. warranty in August.

Last oil change at the dealership, they overfilled it by 1.5 quarts! After they took the first quart out, it was still almost half an inch above the top dipstick mark. They tried to tell me that this was OK because if they ran the engine and then checked the oil, it was only .25" above the mark, which they said was acceptable. I pointed out that the top mark is called the "Overfill" line, that I always check oil after the vehicle sits overnight and that I wanted another .5 qt. taken out!

Sheesh!
 
#20 ·
I too have been changing oil in my family cars for the last 45 years. It's not that hard and you'll know it's done correctly. And cheaper. And it's satisfying to button it up and know you did it. Plus you don't waste a morning at the dealer waiting and dodging upsells. Use Mobil 1 and haven't had an engine failure yet! The only hassle is disposing the oil. Wait for the county's annual haz waste recycling events. I keep receipts, have a log, and buy factory filters during the warranty period. When doing the oil, I also check the bottom of the engine and transmission, and make sure panels, underbody protectors, etc are tight. And I clean out any accumulated leaves and mud. If there's any rust, it gets a dose of rust reformer.
 
#34 ·
I agree with your approach. I read somewhere that Toyota Oil was sourced from Mobile 1 by Exxon. I have read favorable reports about it. People on You Tube have videos about taking apart filters to reveal how they are constructed. Good to learn from that video. I go for the 15,000 mi filter even though I will run it for only 5000 to 7000 mi. It is good to protect your engine for longevity and avoid big bills.
 
#24 ·
How many DIY oil changers actually feel the oil filter to make sure it's getting warm after you put the new oil in and start the engine?

This was a standard that my dad taught me. He said that one, it makes sure the oil filter internal valves are not stuck and two, the new oil is entering and exiting the new filter not just circulating unfiltered oil inside the engine.
 
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#25 ·
I've done the oil changes on my previous car, but as I leased the RAV4 brand new, oil changes for the first 3 years or 35k were free at Toyota so took advantage. Once I bought the car at the end of the lease (just happened this past December) I started planning on doing my own oil changes, so I bought the oil and filter to be at hand when time comes.. I had the local Lexus do the last one a few days ago simply because it;s winter and I was too lazy to get under the car in cold weather, but next one should be due in spring so I'm up. Once I do it one or twice I suspect I will keep doing it year round out of habit.
And yes, I find it very rewarding and satisfying being able to do it myself. I have already done a few things to the RAV4 once I purchase it: changing brakes was the biggest job so far. I am forced to deal with a thermostat change these days and I was initally planning on doing it myself but upon some research it turned out to be more complex than I am willing to cope with, so there are limits on my enthusiasm ha ha.
 
#26 ·
I am forced to deal with a thermostat change these days and I was initally planning on doing it myself but upon some research it turned out to be more complex than I am willing to cope with, so there are limits on my enthusiasm ha ha.
Thermostat is pretty doable if you can lift car high enough.
1. Remove 2 underbody covers
2. Drain the coolant from radiator
3. Disconnect 2 coolant hoses from thermostat
4. Remove 2 bolts (slim 1/4 drive ratchet with 3" extension).
5. Turn out thermostat housing and disconnect electrical connector
6. Clean mating surface on the engine side
7. Install new thermostat.
8. Fill and bleed coolant ( approximately 4 liters).
9. Reinstall underbody panels
10. Test drive
11. Let coolant to cool down and top off expansion tank.

I personally don't like to do this with jack stands but if car can be lifted to the level where I can sit under it then I am OK.
 
#28 ·
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
Congrats on your first DIY oil change. The first is always the hardest/most time consuming. Once you get into the swing of things, you’ll have it down to about 10 minutes from start to finish.

Ways of making it quicker/easier:
1. Ramps instead of jacking it up.
2. Some sort of oil change valve instead of using the drain plug.
3. Using a claw type oil filter wrench instead of anything else. Trust me on this one, I’ve tried them all. The sub $5 claw type wrench at Walmart beats them all.

As for cost, you can find oil deals during the rebate seasons. I haven’t spent more than $15 on any synthetic oil change for my RAV4. I’m at 60K miles.
 
#29 ·
Thanks - quite proud of changing the oil by myself. You are right, the next time will be a lot easier and faster.
I am using 2x6 boards as ramps, to raise the truck by 4 inches. It works for me. Next time to remove the cover panel I'll
use an electric screwdriver. I have no problem with the drain plug. To remove the filter I have a wrench cap, which does a good job.
The only issue is the handling of the old oil. I use an empty laundry detergent can, but it's hard to transfer it from the pan. Also it seems not all lube places accept old oil. So I brought it to the municipal collection center.
Also I have decided to it again in September. So I'm looking at 2 oil changes a year, spring and fall. Currently checking for sales for the Mobil1, I get the filter and washer from the dealer.
 
#30 ·
Thanks - quite proud of changing the oil by myself. You are right, the next time will be a lot easier and faster.
I am using 2x6 boards as ramps, to raise the truck by 4 inches. It works for me. Next time to remove the cover panel I'll
use an electric screwdriver. I have no problem with the drain plug. To remove the filter I have a wrench cap, which does a good job.
The only issue is the handling of the old oil. I use an empty laundry detergent can, but it's hard to transfer it from the pan. Also it seems not all lube places accept old oil. So I brought it to the municipal collection center.
Also I have decided to it again in September. So I'm looking at 2 oil changes a year, spring and fall. Currently checking for sales for the Mobil1, I get the filter and washer from the dealer.
I've brought my used oil to AutoZone in the past. I would imagine that most of the auto parts stores accept used oil; unless something has changed.
 
#32 ·
The last time I brought some oil to AutoZone, they were busy and the guy told me to go to the back room and empty my container into their storage tank myself. It as clearly marked so I couldn't have missed it. Process was simple, emptied and walked out, didn't even have to buy anything.
 
#33 ·
Never done an oil change in my life. Had all the right tools and consumables. No issues at all. Even torqued plug to 30ft/lbs. Cost: Mobile 0w16 on sale $31.99, filter $8.10, washer $1.50, environment fee $0.35, total $41.94 plus tax = $47.39 (US $ 35.53) .

Almost had fun. Took me over one hour. It’s tight under the truck, had to add 4 inch thick planks. The one thing I know for sure, everything was done by the book/specs. Got the right oil, right oil level, correct torque.

Would I do it again? It’s physically hard to do. Maybe next time I’ll go to Mr Lube, stay in the car, no appointment, no waiting, clean pants and sneakers – what’s 100 bucks more?

What do you guys think?
I have done my oil changes for quite a while. Started with my Subaru Sedan when I had an oil change done. The garage was smelly and wife complained about it. It was Feb in Cleveland OH and it was cold. Put on my warm clothes and slipped under the car, not a lot of room. I did a scissors jack under one front wheel and that was all I needed. The car had a plastic skid plate and not much room to drop the filter. They had oil all over everything. I removed the skid plate and cleaned everything of oil then put back together. No more stink in the garage. And I decided to do it myself and always remove the skid plate. Same with our 99 4 Runner and its skid plate. I do the oil changes in March April and Sep Oct and avoid the winter weather and the summer heat. Then I know they are done right, no rush, torque the plug properly and look at everything. I use a head lamp and I like it a lot. I've got a couple of stick style shop lamps for general lighting but that headlight really lets ya see every detail. Presently my two Rav4's do not have a plate that needs removal. I do use my scissors jack to lift it about 3 in as that's all I need for easy access. I have wood blocks stacked under the body just in case there is a problem with the jack. The Rav4 is near to level. When the old oil is drained and the filter replaced I lower the Rav4 and then put in the new oil. I am able to slip under the Rav4 and check for leaks after I run it a few minutes. I am 79 yo and as long as I am able it is good exercise so hop around and do it right.
 
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