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DIY: Oil Pan Drop and Sealant Replacement

13K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  Saturday Morning  
#1 ·
Hi all,
Noticed there weren't any step-by-steps on this forum for dropping the oil pan, so I thought I'd share my experience (with pictures attached). I have a 97 automatic. Overall, it was a very easy experience and only took about 2 hours.

Step 1: Remove the exhaust that runs from the catalytic converter to just past the chassis. It's about 2 or 3 feet long. This is possibly the most difficult part, depending on how old your exhaust is. I replaced this part about 2 years ago so my bolts came off pretty easily and only took about 10 minutes.

Step 2: Remove the structural piece in the front left corner (from the driver's perspective). This is so you can get to the oil pan bolts on the left side. There are three 14 mm (I think) bolts.

Step 3: Drain the oil. Remove all the bolts (10 mm) and carefully pry the oil pan off.

Step 4: Use a scraper and acetone or something to clean the old sealant off the flange and where it meets the housing. Make sure everything is nice and clean! Someone had replaced the sealant on mine with a cork gasket, which leaked like crazy. Go get the sealant from the Toyota dealership, I hear it works much better. It cost $18 USD.

Step 5: Put a 5mm wide bead of sealant around the flange, going on the inside of the bolts. On the left side of the flange (where there are no bolts), run the sealant about 5mm from the edge and on the inside of the little circles (you'll see them if you look).

Step 6: You've got about 5 minutes to get the pan on. I think my Chilton's said to tighten down the bolts to 48 inch pounds.

Step 7: Put the structural bracket and exhaust back on.

Step 8: Done! The sealant box said to wait 1 or 2 hours before starting the car.

After all this, however, the car still leaked. Actually worse than before.... I'm not sure what I did wrong. Any thoughts?? Any help would be appreciated! Even though I'm having problems, the process above is correct from what I've read. I probably shouldn't be putting out instructions if it didn't work for me, but I thought the pictures alone would be helpful to someone!
 

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#2 ·
Wow, the pictures are great, thanks for taking the time to take photos, and post this! :)

I'm sorry you're still having trouble with the leak though: are you positive that its the pan that's leaking, and not something else?

I'm curious---do you happen to know why the previous owner even dropped the pan and installed the regular gasket in the first place? Was there an accident, or impact to the pan, that could have warped the flanges? Are there any dents on the outside of the pan?

You're right that the original way should have been FIPG ("formed-in-place-gasket"). This is because there are features on the mating surfaces which aren't totally flat, so "regular" gaskets can leak. My Toyota service manual says:

"Using a razor blade and gasket scraper, remove all the old packing (FIPG) material from the gasket surface and sealing groove...using a non-residue solvent, clean both sealing surfaces. NOTICE: do not use a solvent which will affect the painted surfaces".

I noticed there is some paint missing from the flange in your picture...I'm guessing this is due to the acetone. I'm not sure, is acetone a non-residue solvent? Non-residue solvent sounds more like something like brake cleaner to me (??). Was there any paint missing from the flange before you used the solvent to clean it? Was the paint coming off as you cleaned it?
Your torque spec matches what I have in my Service Manual (5.4 N-m, 48 in-lbf): its a low spec---any chance you could have accidentally over-torqued any of the bolts or nuts? (ie, did you use a 1/4 drive torque wrench with a low max spec? I only recently accidentally popped off a transmission case bolt with a similar low torque spec, while putting the trans oil pan back on, so I know its easy to do!)
The description you gave of how to run the sealant seems to match also what's in my manual. Here are pictures--is this what you did (it sounds like this is what you did)?





 
#3 ·
After all this, however, the car still leaked. Actually worse than before....
Sorry to hear that. It's certainly no fun to have to do a over, although I'm certain it'll be easier the second time through.


I'm not sure what I did wrong.
Excellent information in the above post. Here are a few additional items to consider.

1. Both surfaces need to be clean and dry and smooth without warping or any real deformation at the bolt holes. Old hard cork gaskets will cause stamped oil pans or valve covers to deform if the bolts are over-tightened. (I think you covered this)

2. Pay careful attention to placement of the sealant bead.

3. Do you tighten the oil pan bolts right to full torque immediately? Many liquid gaskets get snugged up, then we give it time to set-up, and then take it to full torque so as to avoid forcing out all of the sealant. But, if done wrong, the bolt holes can become deformed just like trying to tighten up an old hard cork gasket.

Good Luck,
Saturday
 
#4 · (Edited)
Thanks for the replies! Appreciate the thoughts. <br />
<br />
I tightened up the bolts immediately after putting the oil pan back on so maybe that was the issue. Do you have any recommendations for how long to wait until torqueing them up? I just saw on another forum someone recommending waiting an hour after applying sealant before even putting the pan back on. Thoughts??<br />
<br />
Thanks to both of you!
 
#5 ·
Sorry for the delay in getting back. I certainly wouldn't wait an hour before assembling parts with a #1 RTV silicon type sealant that would be a disaster, but one could maybe get away with that if using a #2 type non-hardening type product.

For the RTV silicon products go ahead and assemble the dressed parts right away and snug them up about finger tight. Then give it a couple hours to set up before torquing everything down. Let me see if I can find some better information out on the www

-Saturday