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Do I Need New Rotors?

805 Views 23 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  SLS Artemis
I have a 2007 RAV4 AWD with V6 engine. It has 187,000 miles. I was told I need new brake pads and rotors. I would like to know if this is really true. I have not noticed any sounds or vibrations when I brake. And it doesn't take longer to come to a stop. (I usually downshift when going downhill, so don't wear out my brakes as fast).

My front pads and rotors were replaced at 116,000 miles. My rear pads were replaced at 80,000 with the rotors resurfaced.

Do I need new brakes and rotors? Just want another opinion because I am a female in my 60s and have been told all kinds of erroneous things by mechanics.

Thank you.
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Brake pads start at about 10mm. Did they say how much is left on the pads?
For most part pads and rotors are replaced as a set. Can you just put pads in. Sure but I think replacing both as a set is industry standard.
Just being honest. We don't resurface rotors any more at my shop.
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He should have a tool like I have pictured below. Have him show you the thickness of your brake pads in question. The colors are self explanatory. If he refuses to, go elsewhere. Let us know how it plays out.

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He should have a tool like I have pictured below. Have him show you the thickness of your brake pads in question. The colors are self explanatory. If he refuses to, go elsewhere. Let us know how it plays out.

View attachment 196088
Can this tool be used without taking the wheel covers off? Also, given the length of time and mileage of my vehicle (see my original post above), I'm thinking I'd be due for new brakes and rotors? Or is that not necessarily true?
Pads should be replaced when the friction material is nearly worn down.

Rotors should be replaced when they get to the minimum thickness that is normally written on them.

In normal use rotors will typically last 2 sets of pads.

Given the mileage you have provided then you are due pads. Rotors are probably fine, unless they measure below spec.
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Some shops do take advantage of females so I don't blame you for being cautious. You can take it to another mechanic or just wait until you hear the squeal. The wear indicator will make contact with the rotor indicating replacement is required. The metal to metal contact will squeal so there is no mistake there not much pad left.
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As DL175 says pads have a small steel tabs called squealers that contact the rotor when the pads are thin enough to need replacement. They typically squeal loudest when braking when backing up. And it is loud enough to draw your attention to something being wrong.
So, if the pads aren't squealing you know they're okay w/o needing to measure them.

Rotors need replacement when the brakes shudder when stopping. Again it's a very noticeable and annoying EVERY time you stop. But then it's much most irritating than dangerous. If your stops are smooth your rotors are okay.

The caveat to all of this is the actual measurements of pad and rotor thickness which does require removing the wheel.

And there are other factors a good brake mechanic can check such as a sticking caliper but I agree with the others that given the mileages you stated if the brake are stopping fine w/o shudder or backup squeal you don't need brake service at this time. And as SLS says, the colored thickness gauge (which I've never seen before) can give a good indication of brake pad life remaining.

One other thought: Except when I'm towing a trailer downhill with one of my F-250s I've discontinued downshifting when coming to a stop (a holdover from my manual transmission days) figuring brake pads are much cheaper to replace than automatic transmissions.
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Just the mileage alone (70,000) on your brakes would convince me to replace both the pads and rotors. BTW, I'm not a fan of resurfacing rotors. In the old days, 1970ish, rotors were much thicker and could stand being machined 1 or 2 times. Not anymore. Brakes are important.
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To change the pads they will unmount the brake caliper. At this point, changing the rotor is a quick simple job- pull it off, clean the seating surface if needed, degrease the new rotor, slide the new rotor in place. No measuring, no looking for warp marks, no machining the surface and wondering if they will now warp in the next few thousand miles. No thinking, no risks, some extra money for the shop. As big bird said, old school measuring and lathing is not typical any more. Not a scam, just an industry practice that reduces risk for everyone and doesn't cost that much.
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If you look spare parts catalogues max wear for rotors is indicated! For example BREMBO 09.D988.11 max wear is 3mm
Thickness (TH) 34mm
Min. thickness 31mm
Brake disc Brembo 09.D988.11 (bremboparts.com)
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If you look spare parts catalogues max wear for rotors is indicated! For example BREMBO 09.D988.11 max wear is 3mm
Thickness (TH) 34mm
Min. thickness 31mm
Agreed, but unless the the rotors have been turned (resurfaced) which is rare, who actually makes the replacement decision based on a thickness measurement.
Using the you-do-want-to-be-safe warning, most shops are going to just tell the customer he/she needs new rotors for the markup and labor whereas knowledgeable customers know the rotors are okay if they don't pulsate or shudder when stopping.
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A rough guestimate would be to see if there is a lip at the outer edge of the rotor. If there is, safer to replace the rotor. If not and there is no juddering when braking hard from a faster speed, the rotors are likely good for some additional miles.
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I have never replaced rotor nor drums (that should give you an idea of my age) in MANY years of working on my own cars. In a few applications of the brakes, the shoes/pads will match the old drums/rotors. Brake shops will charge the labor to replace the drums/rotors and the pads/shoes, even though only ONE labor period is required to do BOTH. A great chance for a shop to double dip.
Watch a 10 minute YouTube video and do your own. Save a lot of money.
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Thank you all for your advice. Since I have no overt symptoms of a problem, I will hold off on the brake work the shop recommended.

Follow up question: I got brand new tires at Costco two weeks ago. Didn't think of asking them to check brakes. They put on the tires and recommended alignment service within the next 5000 miles. They said nothing about brakes. Can I assume my brakes are OK or they would have said something? Or do they not really look for brake issues since they don't perform brake work. (Of course, they don't perform alignments either).
Thank you all for your advice. Since I have no overt symptoms of a problem, I will hold off on the brake work the shop recommended.

Follow up question: I got brand new tires at Costco two weeks ago. Didn't think of asking them to check brakes. They put on the tires and recommended alignment service within the next 5000 miles. They said nothing about brakes. Can I assume my brakes are OK or they would have said something? Or do they not really look for brake issues since they don't perform brake work. (Of course, they don't perform alignments either).
I would call that Costco shop and ask if they routinely check brake condition when getting new tires.
Also, have you ever had brake pads replaced before?
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Vee: IMO, the best thing for you to do is to find a shop that you can trust (per friends/family/Google) and have your brakes inspected and go with their suggestion. Brakes are very important and debating on the internet is not the way to go.
Thank you all for your advice. Since I have no overt symptoms of a problem, I will hold off on the brake work the shop recommended.

Follow up question: I got brand new tires at Costco two weeks ago. Didn't think of asking them to check brakes. They put on the tires and recommended alignment service within the next 5000 miles. They said nothing about brakes. Can I assume my brakes are OK or they would have said something? Or do they not really look for brake issues since they don't perform brake work. (Of course, they don't perform alignments either).
It's fairly typical to recommend an alignment when getting new tires. Alignment can get out of spec for many reasons. I get an alignment every two years at most for our regular vehicles and in that time, there always has been some slight change. Over the lifetime of a set of tires the changes may be enough to cause faster than normal wear on your new set of tires.
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I have a 2007 RAV4 AWD with V6 engine. It has 187,000 miles. I was told I need new brake pads and rotors. I would like to know if this is really true. I have not noticed any sounds or vibrations when I brake. And it doesn't take longer to come to a stop. (I usually downshift when going downhill, so don't wear out my brakes as fast).

My front pads and rotors were replaced at 116,000 miles. My rear pads were replaced at 80,000 with the rotors resurfaced.

Do I need new brakes and rotors? Just want another opinion because I am a female in my 60s and have been told all kinds of erroneous things by mechanics.

Thank you.
When my tires are rotated they write the pad thickness on the report sheet. Caliper pads can be readily looked at, not the need to take anything apart as in drum brakes. When the tires are rotated
as Toyota says every 5000 mi I think the wheels are taken off the car and that's when the mechanic has full view of the caliper and pads and can measure them, no problem. Then the rotated wheel goes on and done. If you have a trusted garage it is worth much. I have a trusted garage where I live and has been my trusted garage for more than 30 years. Many times they kept me from spending money I did not need to. And they have a loyal following of customers, plenty of repeat business for them.
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It's fairly typical to recommend an alignment when getting new tires. Alignment can get out of spec for many reasons. I get an alignment every two years at most for our regular vehicles and in that time, there always has been some slight change. Over the lifetime of a set of tires the changes may be enough to cause faster than normal wear on your new set of tires.
Costco people are not allowed to touch brakes. They are limited to only putting on the new tires. I went to my Costco to price out tires in March. The fellow customer turning in his car to get new tires put on asked them to check the amount of brake pad thickness left. Costco said they are not permitted to do that and that's when I learned of their limited ability. I needed a battery from Costco and they said they could sell me a battery. They were not allowed to install it. I do my own battery install so it did not affect me and I got a battery for my car. I cleaned the battery terminals and clamps with my battery cleaning tool, Did the hold down bracket using LokTite and put on the positive terminal clamp followed by the negative terminal clamp in that order. All went well and this was a cold day in January in Cleveland OH. The cold weather killed the battery at 5 yo.
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I would call that Costco shop and ask if they routinely check brake condition when getting new tires.
Also, have you ever had brake pads replaced before?
I asked Costco today and they told me they have nothing to do with brakes and do not look at them. Yes, I have had brake pads replaced before: both front and rear, but it's been a while....
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