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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys

Doing my V6 water pump today...

Do the bolts for the water pump need sealant on them? I see some places say you absolutely need sealant, other places don't say at all. I have some blue RTV on hand.

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I seen some add a little bit of sealant in addition to using the gasket. It may help seal the pump better. The workshop manual does not specify using a sealant.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I seen some add a little bit of sealant in addition to using the gasket. It may help seal the pump better. The workshop manual does not specify using a sealant.
Hmm okay. I found some more information. It seems only the two bolts labeled "C" need threadlocker on them. Regular medium-strength threadlocker!





 

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Did you find the sticky on replacing the pump? If not the main trick is removing the pulley from the pump and then taking it and the pump out of the car together.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Did you find the sticky on replacing the pump? If not the main trick is removing the pulley from the pump and then taking it and the pump out of the car together.
I did look at that, yeah. The guy who posted his instructions on there didn't mention anything about sealant from what I saw. No problem on getting the pump out, I did it tonight. Still unsure of the sealant, as more than 2 of my bolts had sealant on them, and it was still wet...almost like the stuff never dries...not sure why they would say blue loctite is equivalent to that...

Also noticed my idler pulley is slightly loose...thinking of changing it at the same time...then I saw the price....$55 here in Canada...wow! Anyone know if the bearing used for the tensioner pulley is the same size as the idler pulley? 6203-2NSE
 

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I did look at that, yeah. The guy who posted his instructions on there didn't mention anything about sealant from what I saw. No problem on getting the pump out, I did it tonight. Still unsure of the sealant, as more than 2 of my bolts had sealant on them, and it was still wet...almost like the stuff never dries...not sure why they would say blue Loctite is equivalent to that...
Yeah, I contributed to that thread but don't remember using Loctite or sealer, and I have both. And you're right Loctite dries to stop bolts from coming loose which isn't an issue in this application. If it was they'd want it on all bolts. Sealer such a Permatex Blue RTV makes more sense for just a few "critical" bolts. IMO their instructions are in error.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I contributed to that thread but don't remember using Loctite or sealer, and I have both. And you're right Loctite dries to stop bolts from coming loose which isn't an issue in this application. If it was they'd want it on all bolts. Sealer such a Permatex Blue RTV makes more sense for just a few "critical" bolts. IMO their instructions are in error.

Thanks. So you didn't use any sealant or threadlocker on yours when you did it?
 

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Thanks. So you didn't use any sealant or threadlocker on yours when you did it?
I'm pretty sure I didn't otherwise I'd have noted it in my write-up. But RTV couldn't hurt.
 

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I'm pretty sure I didn't otherwise I'd have noted it in my write-up. But RTV couldn't hurt.
Okay.

I just got done putting the new water pump in...only put Locktite on the exact bolts that the manual showed...crossing my fingers...I saw some drips here and there but hoping that was just because I had the bleeder open while I was putting the coolant in and some came out of it. Checked a few times after that and didn't see any signs of leaks...yet...sigh really don't want to do that job over again if there's a leak.

On a side note, I didn't put it all back together yet because I noticed the bearing in my idler pulley is slightly loose...tried to find the bearing online that I need (6302RMX), but can't find it anywhere in Canada...too bad. I really don't want to pay $60 for a new idler pulley for what will essentially just be a new bearing...the pulley itself is still in good shape. If anyone knows a source that would be great.

If I did decide to put it back together with the slightly loose idler pulley and then decide to change it in a few weeks, how far do I have to dismantle the car again to swap it out? Seems like it would be pretty difficult from the top with the whole engine mount in the way.
 

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Okay.

I just got done putting the new water pump in...only put Locktite on the exact bolts that the manual showed...crossing my fingers...I saw some drips here and there but hoping that was just because I had the bleeder open while I was putting the coolant in and some came out of it. Checked a few times after that and didn't see any signs of leaks...yet...sigh really don't want to do that job over again if there's a leak.

On a side note, I didn't put it all back together yet because I noticed the bearing in my idler pulley is slightly loose...tried to find the bearing online that I need (6302RMX), but can't find it anywhere in Canada...too bad. I really don't want to pay $60 for a new idler pulley for what will essentially just be a new bearing...the pulley itself is still in good shape. If anyone knows a source that would be great.

If I did decide to put it back together with the slightly loose idler pulley and then decide to change it in a few weeks, how far do I have to dismantle the car again to swap it out? Seems like it would be pretty difficult from the top with the whole engine mount in the way.
I had a scare after my friend and I changed her water pump. We left the bleeder valve open and it finished bleeding quicker than I expected. I remember seeing coolant pouring on the ground after our 12 hour job and thinking we needed to redo it all! Thankfully it was just out of the bleeder valve and nothing else.

If the idler pulley is a little loose, I suggest doing it while you have things apart as it's easier to access. We got a new one for $40 in the US. The idler pulley is different than the tensioner pulley so they are not interchangeable. If you did it later, it may be accessible enough through the wheel well, but that would still be difficult if possible I would think.
 
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