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Does the rear differential ever actually fail? Or just the coupler bearing?!

4.5K views 10 replies 6 participants last post by  MotoMotoman  
#1 · (Edited)
2014 XLE w 120k miles. I don't know the history before 80k as we bought it used in August 2022.

I have been disappointed overall, as we bought a Toyota for my spouse, thinking we'd not have to worry much. We've had a host of issues (besides 'normal' wear and tear) that are all mentioned here elsewhere on this forum (torque converter, brakes, leaks, etc), so I won't go into everything except the following.

We have a vibration between 40-55mph that has worsened. Diagnosed by a garage I (mostly) trust as needing new prop shaft (u-joint out of spec) and new rear diff NOT just the coupler bearing (also referred to as viscous coupler I guess), which is what usually seems to go on these. The Toyota part number is 90363-95007 and costs about $90...rather that purchasing the entire coupler housing and/or a remanufactured rear end for $700).

The work order is for $5,000, mostly labor. I CAN do the work, as in, I am capable of it. I don't want to, unless it will save the $3,000 USD in labor costs. The tech specifically said it was the diff that was gone, not just the coupler bearing.

Is there any way to verify this for the shade-tree mechanic?

I rarely see the actual differential, as in the gears inside the housing, fail. Most of my research indicates it's the coupler bearing. The u-joint/prop shaft is understandable and not a huge job or too expensive.
 
#2 ·
I'm sorry to hear that your RAV4 has not delivered on Toyota's reputation for quality. Perhaps the previous owner mistreated the vehicle before you bought it.

One way to hone in on the "truth" as to what's actually needing repair would be to get a second opinion from another mechanic. Easier said than done, but perhaps you could post in a Facebook group that's local to your area looking for trusted mechanic recommendations?

Other thoughts:

  • What symptoms are leading to the diagnosis that you need a replacement rear differential?
  • Unless the rear differential was run bone dry or you were doing off roading / towing, I would be skeptical that the rear differential needs replacement.
 
#3 ·
Thank you for your response. It is at a different shop this week for a second opinion...and they are telling me, and have taken video, that it is the rear-most u-joint that is the issue. They want to send it to a shop to have the u-joint rebuilt and have quoted $650 for the job. I can purchase an entire propshaft unit new for under $250-350 (which includes 2 new u-joints, carrier bearing and new prop shafts) so I'm not sure I want to go that route. Their inspection has determined that it does not at this time seem like the differential nor coupler bearing have gone...but for some reason the 'slip' light on the dash is illuminated (forgot to say that in the original post). Hmmmm....decisions decisions....
 
#4 · (Edited)
So I have made a video and will attempt to post it here.

I have the rear of the car in the air on jackstands. Front is on the ground. Transmission gear selector in Park.

I know the most rearward driveshaft U joint is bad so have a new prop shaft w/carrier bearing to install.

I am confused! With the rear of the car in the air this way, the driveshaft does not turn more than a tiny bit: this I expected. What I did not expect is that the rear wheels spin freely (one in each direction) even with the gear selector in park and the driveshaft not spinning. Is the rear differential electronically controlled or does this confirm the gears inside are stripped and the rear diff has failed?

2014 RAV4 rear diff vimeo
 
#5 ·
#7 ·
That looks like WAY TOO MUCH play in the universal joint. I would not drive a vehicle with that much slop in the u-joint. If it comes apart while you are moving, it is going to tear the hell out the underside of the car before it slips out of the transmission and goes hunting other cars on the road.
 
#8 ·
Yes the old propshafts are out and new one is just waiting to go in.
If my assessment is correct, I do not need to replace the diff or the coupler at this time. The coupler is not grinding ...although the 'slip' light on the dash is illuminated.
I am going to do rear hubs, all caliper/rotors/pads, and all shocks & springs while I am at it. I really hope it makes it a nicer car to drive as it's never been 100% 'right' since we bought it 2 years ago. Blah blah blah...
 
#10 ·
I purchased the prop shaft from ee bay and it was literally the cheapest one that was N American stock (but I believe it is probably manufactured elsewhere). For my purposes, it does the job.

I successfully installed it this past week, and only lost one of the washers when it fell into a crevice between the front subframe supports.

So far, it seems fine.

I would like to know, however, whether there is a way to test the magnetic coupler to confirm whether it is operating correctly. Is there a DIY way to do this, or is this a dealer/shop job? I am just using jack stands so my ability to safely investigate with the car in gear and running is limited.

The anti skid/slip light is still illuminated on the dash. I'm not sure if the car will 'learn' that the driveshaft is no longer wobbling and turn itself off? I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes (or was it 30?) a few weeks ago and that did not make the lamp turn off.

Thanks everyone!