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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here is a video I watched and used to install door speakers in my wife's Tundra. Should work the same way with our vehicle with the exception of our speaker being riveted in. They will need to be drilled out and replaced with some nuts and bolts. This method will eliminate the need for buying a wire harness and the worry of reverse polarity of said aftermarket harnesses and still use the factory plug. I used a dremel vs the cut off tool this guy uses with no issues. A couple butt connectors per speaker is all that is needed. Just cut off the ends of the speaker connectors provided with the speakers you bought far enough back to where you feel comfortable with enough wire to work with. Connect that to the wires coming from the plug and you should be good. You just might have to get a little creative on the mounting of the speaker to the stock speaker holder. From what I have seen in another video, not too creative. Good luck.


In this second video is an example of mounting the speaker. Combine the info of both videos on wiring and mounting an this should be a fairly easy task.

 

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Here is a video I watched and used to install door speakers in my wife's Tundra. Should work the same way with our vehicle with the exception of our speaker being riveted in. They will need to be drilled out and replaced with some nuts and bolts. This method will eliminate the need for buying a wire harness and the worry of reverse polarity of said aftermarket harnesses and still use the factory plug. I used a dremel vs the cut off tool this guy uses with no issues. A couple butt connectors per speaker is all that is needed. Just cut off the ends of the speaker connectors provided with the speakers you bought far enough back to where you feel comfortable with enough wire to work with. Connect that to the wires coming from the plug and you should be good. You just might have to get a little creative on the mounting of the speaker to the stock speaker holder. From what I have seen in another video, not too creative. Good luck.


In this second video is an example of mounting the speaker. Combine the info of both videos on wiring and mounting an this should be a fairly easy task.

I got the OEM Audio + speakers which are plug and play: no adapters, wire spicing, or butt connectors needed. They even come with new pop rivets. New pop rivets are inexpensive and readily available. Screws and nuts could come loose and are hard to install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Crutchfield has adapters for the RAV 4 indoor speaker installation which was included free when I bought the speakers from them.
My post was an alternative. Just in case someone takes speakers from another car, given a pair from someone, had an extra set hanging around, etc. In my case, I have a set hanging around. Not to mention, even with free adapters from crutchfield, they aren't exactly budget friendly with their prices and some on here may not want to spend what crutchfield is asking for speakers, or may find the same speaker at a much better price elsewhere. I got my infinity reference 3.5" speakers elsewhere for $50 and crutchfield is asking $100.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got the OEM Audio + speakers which are plug and play: no adapters, wire spicing, or butt connectors needed. They even come with new pop rivets. New pop rivets are inexpensive and readily available. Screws and nuts could come loose and are hard to install.
Not many people own a rivet gun and would therefore be a much more expensive route than a few butt connectors. Many of the folks here aren't looking to replace OEM speakers with OEM speakers. They are going aftermarket. Lock nuts rarely come loose. I myself, will probably use pop rivets as I do have a rivet gun. Remember, my OP is an alternative, a suggestion. Not an end all discussions on methods.
 

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Just don't use the foam baffles behind your speakers like I did. They reduce base frequency. I was messing with my amp settings forever until I realized it was the baffles. They don't allow enough air movement behind the speakers. Especially since I have them amplified at 75 x4 rms. Wondering why my speakers sounded weird l
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Not many people own a rivet gun and would therefore be a much more expensive route than a few butt connectors. Many of the folks here aren't looking to replace OEM speakers with OEM speakers. They are going aftermarket. Lock nuts rarely come loose. I myself, will probably use pop rivets as I do have a rivet gun. Remember, my OP is an alternative, a suggestion. Not an end all discussions on methods.
OEM Audio + is a company name, completely independent of Toyota (Car Audio Speakers | OEM Audio Plus) They are not "OEM" speakers, but much higher quality than Toyota speakers. They are true aftermarket speakers.

True, many people may not have a rivet gun, but they are readily available at any hardware store for a reasonable price.

Butt connectors for wires have nothing to do with speaker frame mounting with rivets. Comparing the cost of butt connectors (for wires) to the cost of a rivet gun makes no sense. Apples and oranges.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OEM Audio + is a company name, completely independent of Toyota (Car Audio Speakers | OEM Audio Plus) They are not "OEM" speakers, but much higher quality than Toyota speakers. They are true aftermarket speakers.

True, many people may not have a rivet gun, but they are readily available at any hardware store for a reasonable price.

Butt connectors for wires have nothing to do with speaker frame mounting with rivets. Comparing the cost of butt connectors (for wires) to the cost of a rivet gun makes no sense. Apples and oranges.
I didn't realize it was a company name. Thanks for that info.
 

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Is the upgrade needed if you have the OEM JBL w/ sub sound system? I think my JBL sound system sounds ok as-is, but can it be made much better?
I swapped out all my door speakers with Kickers, as well as the dash. The highs (treble) are much better, for me at least. Plus I have some hearing loss in my left ear and not as bad in my right ear. I think the bass is a little better too. I think the sound was a little muddled with the stock speakers.
 

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I swapped out all my door speakers with Kickers, as well as the dash. The highs (treble) are much better, for me at least. Plus I have some hearing loss in my left ear and not as bad in my right ear. I think the bass is a little better too. I think the sound was a little muddled with the stock speakers.
You had the JBL system?
 

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Some GM vehicles did a similar thing, cut the speakers out of the basket and utilize the basket for the new speaker. Had to be careful with the speaker spec though, not all are equal given a size advertisement.

I had the free adaptors from Crutchfield for my GM truck and they were useless junk. Crutchfield is pretty good but the adaptors they gave me were just trash. Same with the head unit bracket -I ended up buying a quality bracket for the head unit and custom cut wooden spacers for my door speakers.

I don't think I will ever cut a factory speaker wire again.
 

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Some GM vehicles did a similar thing, cut the speakers out of the basket and utilize the basket for the new speaker. Had to be careful with the speaker spec though, not all are equal given a size advertisement.

I had the free adaptors from Crutchfield for my GM truck and they were useless junk. Crutchfield is pretty good but the adaptors they gave me were just trash. Same with the head unit bracket -I ended up buying a quality bracket for the head unit and custom cut wooden spacers for my door speakers.

I don't think I will ever cut a factory speaker wire again.
The (Crutchfield) adapters that came with my speakers worked great for me and the spacers also worked great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No, the dash speakers were good enough to do. I don't think there's a need to do the pillar ones.
I know in the non JBL system, the dash speakers are actually just tweeters. So to upgrade to a 3.5" speaker makes a difference as you are getting a speaker and tweeter to replace the tweeter. I imagine that the JBL system actually has a 3.5" speaker in that spot. But if not, it will improve the sound up top. Which would be more beneficial for you with the slight hearing loss.
 

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My JBL system sounds like it is all tweeters and a weak sub. haha

I have the treble all the way down and it is still ear piercing, mid range below half and sub up about 60% and the sound is 'decent'.
Not sure we are talking about the same JBL system or not.
Mine has the JBL 11 speaker with sub in the rear, I have to turn down the bass, it gets a bit too boomy with bass up.

I think what's missing from the oem audio system is an actual 10 or 12 band EQ. This would help allow owner to tune the sound a bit more than just T/M/B.
 

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Not sure we are talking about the same JBL system or not.
Mine has the JBL 11 speaker with sub in the rear, I have to turn down the bass, it gets a bit too boomy with bass up.

I think what's missing from the oem audio system is an actual 10 or 12 band EQ. This would help allow owner to tune the sound a bit more than just T/M/B.
Yeah, that's the problem with most stock systems, all they have is T/M/B settings.
 
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