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Discussion Starter #1
Just got a 2006 I4 with 125K miles as a winter beater. Replacing all the fluids and brake pads and rotors. As for the transaxle, I was thinking of dropping the pan and changing the filter than doing two other drain and fills about 1,000 miles apart. Would this achieve similar results as flushing it off the bat?
 

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You will get almost 90% ATF changed this way.
Remember to get the OEM or cork pan gasket. The rubber ones seem to leak. :( I am planning to replace my rubber gasket with the OEM one this summer.
Also get the medium strength thread locker and a torque wrench that can read around 70 inch pounds. Check the specs for the exact torque needed.

If you have 4WD, you might also do that transfer case and rear differential. It takes a little more than a quart for fluid. About $10.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You will get almost 90% ATF changed this way.
Remember to get the OEM or cork pan gasket. The rubber ones seem to leak. :( I am planning to replace my rubber gasket with the OEM one this summer.
Also get the medium strength thread locker and a torque wrench that can read around 70 inch pounds. Check the specs for the exact torque needed.

If you have 4WD, you might also do that transfer case and rear differential. It takes a little more than a quart for fluid. About $10.


Oh yes, I’m doing all the fluids. The filter kit I got came with a cork type gasket.
 

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Your RAV4 surely has a metal mesh screen. You could just clean it if you wish but since your filter is part of a kit, I guess you might as well use the filter.
Let us know the state of your mesh filter. Mine was perfectly clean but I dropped the pan very early.
 

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A better way:
1 drain and fill the pan
2 disconnect the return line from the transmission fluid cooler and attach a clear hose to it, place hose in 1 quart bottle
3 start car and let it idle until the quart bottle is full, stop engine
4 add 1 quart of new fluid
5 repeat steps 3 and 4 until clean fluid comes out of the return line, then stop and top up the transmission.

Should take 7-8 quarts.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A better way:
1 drain and fill the pan
2 disconnect the return line from the transmission fluid cooler and attach a clear hose to it, place hose in 1 quart bottle
3 start car and let it idle until the quart bottle is full, stop engine
4 add 1 quart of new fluid
5 repeat steps 3 and 4 until clean fluid comes out of the return line, then stop and top up the transmission.

Should take 7-8 quarts.
I know my way around my Mustang but this Rav 4 is new. Got any pics of the transmission cooler return line? I'll also look for it in the online manual.
 

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I know my way around my Mustang but this Rav 4 is new. Got any pics of the transmission cooler return line? I'll also look for it in the online manual.
I don't have a pic, but there are only two hoses that run from the radiator to the transmission. If it's anything like my daughter's Corolla, the hoses pass through a metal junction block right in front of the transmission. Disconnect one of the hoses between the junction block and the transmission, at the junction block, and attach your clear hose to the junction block. On the Corolla, the lower line is the return line.
 

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Just got a 2006 I4 with 125K miles as a winter beater. Replacing all the fluids and brake pads and rotors. As for the transaxle, I was thinking of dropping the pan and changing the filter than doing two other drain and fills about 1,000 miles apart. Would this achieve similar results as flushing it off the bat?
I think I would do as you suggest but change the filter at the last flush instead of the first. Fresh fluid might break loose some crud and you might as well get rid of it along with the old filter.
 

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