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Hi johnrav, I'm just not game to do that with my 2007 4cyl rav. I'm thinking about it though.
Do it, the EGR Valve is THE Device which ends your engine life early. Also, those who think that Babying your Rav4, (not driving it hard or fast) is helping it, the truth is that the EGR Valve combined with "drive it slow and it will last" attitude will destroy your car earlier than pounding the piss out of it.

If you Block off the EGR Valve, remember that the Pipe that comes up from the Head to the EGR is going to get completely clogged with crap.

If you have to re install the EGR Valve for an emission test later the engine AND the EGR Valve will suffer.

Lets say after a year of EGR Plate block-off you are required to put it back on to complete an emission test, so you do it the day before the test, the Carbon, oil and sludge that is clogged in the EGR passes now flows freely, into your EGR Valve, FAILING the test, Or worse, bypasses the EGR, goes into the throttle finally drowns the engine in gunk.

If you DO NOT warm up your vehicle to it's normal operating temperature before taking off (jumping in it in the morning, with engine cold, starting and driving it away), you are destroying your engine. Do this on a car with an EGR Valve and you are destroying it faster.

The ONLY Thing you want going in that intake is COLD Fresh air, and COLD Clean Fuel. THAT IS IT. Ask anyone with a Race car, that's why they always VTA (Vent to atmosphere) because oil/gunk makes the air induction system Smaller, and less efficient.

Here is a typical (WITH EGR VALVE) Toyota Engine intake manifold



http://kansascitytdi.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/image0011.jpg

Intake Manifold Cleaning $190 Labor + Parts | Kansas City TDI

more than 60 per cent of Rav4 Owners, especially the "gentle drivers" are guaranteed to have their intake resemble these above.

You have to shut the EGR Pathway off at the SOURCE.

Here is the 3S-FE EGR Pathway "Cleanout" on the block.








This pipe in my hands is the pipe that send Exhaust gas (and sludge) back into your EGR Valve, then back into the intake. For those wanting to be certain they pass an e-test, remove this pipe, clean it out like the barrel of a pistol (with pistol/rifle cleaning rods), and replace/clean your EGR Valve, use a vacuum and clean out the EGR Pathway in the head (as pictured) and I will sit here and GUARANTEE you, that if you do all those things, and the EGR Valve is FUNCTIONING, after cleaning, and driving FULL THROTTLE on the highway for at least ONE hour, that you WILL PASS YOUR TEST. (fail to do the Wide open throttle part on the highway and everything else is a waste, you need to knock that gunk off the valves, and putting the engine through ALL of it's power bands at HIGH RPM is the only way, besides taking the head apart and cleaning it by hand)

So many people FAIL, even AFTER changing the EGR Valve, then SCRAP THEIR CAR WITH A BRAND NEW EGR VALVE ON IT AND BUY A BRAND NEW POS CAR JUST BECAUSE THEY DIDNT CLEAN OUT THE PIPE THAT LEADS UP TO IT!!!

I'm actually certain that Toyota, other car manufacturers and the EPA Conspired to "standardize" EGR Valves with "The environment" as the excuse, and the Planned Obsolesence as the benefit.

These EGR Systems take Exhaust Gas off ONE CYLINDER. THAT IS NOT EFFECTIVE. It only "Makes the grade" Having an emission system that works off ONE CYLINDER, is proof that there was no intention of the system being very effective anyways.

EGR=MONEY GRAB
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Do it, the EGR Valve is THE Device which ends your engine life early. Also, those who think that Babying your Rav4, (not driving it hard or fast) is helping it, the truth is that the EGR Valve combined with "drive it slow and it will last" attitude will destroy your car earlier than pounding the piss out of it.

If you Block off the EGR Valve, remember that the Pipe that comes up from the Head to the EGR is going to get completely clogged with crap.

If you have to re install the EGR Valve for an emission test later the engine AND the EGR Valve will suffer.

Lets say after a year of EGR Plate block-off you are required to put it back on to complete an emission test, so you do it the day before the test, the Carbon, oil and sludge that is clogged in the EGR passes now flows freely, into your EGR Valve, FAILING the test, Or worse, bypasses the EGR, goes into the throttle finally drowns the engine in gunk.

If you DO NOT warm up your vehicle to it's normal operating temperature before taking off (jumping in it in the morning, with engine cold, starting and driving it away), you are destroying your engine. Do this on a car with an EGR Valve and you are destroying it faster.

The ONLY Thing you want going in that intake is COLD Fresh air, and COLD Clean Fuel. THAT IS IT. Ask anyone with a Race car, that's why they always VTA (Vent to atmosphere) because oil/gunk makes the air induction system Smaller, and less efficient.

Here is a typical (WITH EGR VALVE) Toyota Engine intake manifold



http://kansascitytdi.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/image0011.jpg

Intake Manifold Cleaning $190 Labor + Parts | Kansas City TDI

more than 60 per cent of Rav4 Owners, especially the "gentle drivers" are guaranteed to have their intake resemble these above.

You have to shut the EGR Pathway off at the SOURCE.

Here is the 3S-FE EGR Pathway "Cleanout" on the block.








This pipe in my hands is the pipe that send Exhaust gas (and sludge) back into your EGR Valve, then back into the intake. For those wanting to be certain they pass an e-test, remove this pipe, clean it out like the barrel of a pistol (with pistol/rifle cleaning rods), and replace/clean your EGR Valve, use a vacuum and clean out the EGR Pathway in the head (as pictured) and I will sit here and GUARANTEE you, that if you do all those things, and the EGR Valve is FUNCTIONING, after cleaning, and driving FULL THROTTLE on the highway for at least ONE hour, that you WILL PASS YOUR TEST. (fail to do the Wide open throttle part on the highway and everything else is a waste, you need to knock that gunk off the valves, and putting the engine through ALL of it's power bands at HIGH RPM is the only way, besides taking the head apart and cleaning it by hand)

So many people FAIL, even AFTER changing the EGR Valve, then SCRAP THEIR CAR WITH A BRAND NEW EGR VALVE ON IT AND BUY A BRAND NEW POS CAR JUST BECAUSE THEY DIDNT CLEAN OUT THE PIPE THAT LEADS UP TO IT!!!

I'm actually certain that Toyota, other car manufacturers and the EPA Conspired to "standardize" EGR Valves with "The environment" as the excuse, and the Planned Obsolesence as the benefit.

These EGR Systems take Exhaust Gas off ONE CYLINDER. THAT IS NOT EFFECTIVE. It only "Makes the grade" Having an emission system that works off ONE CYLINDER, is proof that there was no intention of the system being very effective anyways.

EGR=MONEY GRAB
I have always done it with all my previous cars en i will always stay doing this . Never had any disadvantages from it .
 

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I really don't care about miles per gallon i want my engine to last :D


That might be true, but many people "heard it somewhere" that removing EGR worsens the fuel economy and avoiding this modification for that reason. It would be nice to show them that this isn't true...


Nice post, Rav4hunting! I think that EGR was one of the worst "inventions" in automotive history... Good thing they are finally starting to faze it out!
 

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The ONLY Thing you want going in that intake is COLD Fresh air, and COLD Clean Fuel. THAT IS IT. Ask anyone with a Race car, that's why they always VTA (Vent to atmosphere) because oil/gunk makes the air induction system Smaller, and less efficient.
Thanks for the well illustrated article.

How about making a VTA ? Is it feasible?
 

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Discussion Starter #10

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That has not been my personal experience! I have removed EGR from many of my cars and found no measurable difference in fuel consumption!

The problem is that it will give you a constant CE light. You can ignore or remove the light, ether way you lose it as an indicator that some is wrong :(
I don't get that light so no problem :laugh
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the well illustrated article.

How about making a VTA ? Is it feasible?
You wanna VTA tru an oilcatchtank with a filter on top ?

Because now its stil vented tru the airintake right ?
 

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The OP remarked about color of the oil looking cleaner. Consumer Reports Magazine (may find on the web) did extensive testing of oil years ago and remarked the "color" of oil is an indication of nothing.

As for the EGR breaking an engine? It's news to me. Any engine should be run at high speeds on the Thruway to burn off/out the carbon , every so often, in my opinion.

Yes there is probably some maintain that should be done on the EGR but I never did it. Wife's vehicle did have an EGR valve problem years ago and a new EGR solved the problem.
 

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That has not been my personal experience! I have removed EGR from many of my cars and found no measurable difference in fuel consumption!

The problem is that it will give you a constant CE light. You can ignore or remove the light, ether way you lose it as an indicator that some is wrong :(
Measurable difference means it was dyno'd before/after and all other variables are removed. the JDM version of the 3S-FE (pictured above) gets about 18-20 HP more than the USDM/Canadian version.

The culprit is the Emission control system hogging up the horse power, and higher spark voltage creating better combustion.

Vacuum loss to power the emission controls, and the Japanese fuel (better than ours) can be taken into consideration.
 

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EGR valve is NEVER open during WOT, so while I hate EGR and remove it from most of my cars, it will not have an effect on your PEAK power. Whatever is responsive for 18-20 extra hp on JDM engine, it is has nothing to do with EGR.
 

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I think the biggest advantage JDM and European cars have is we don't have that nasty restrictive exhaust manifold, with cats.
I had to take the heat shield off mine to see what I had, it's a nice little banana manifold :)
 

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I suspect that you are correct, that is most likely the biggest source of extra power.
 

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My 99 is quoted as having 126 bhp. Don't know about JDM and US?

Don't forget JDM also had a Type G, which used the 3S-GE. Which I've been looking for on the import sites since finding out about them. They all appear to be autos though :(
 

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My 99 is quoted as having 126 bhp. Don't know about JDM and US?

Don't forget JDM also had a Type G, which used the 3S-GE. Which I've been looking for on the import sites since finding out about them. They all appear to be autos though :(

My car has also 126 bhp
 
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