I have a third-party accessory alarm system with a Bluetooth connection to the car that activated the door locks without issue, but the key fob would not.

My initial suspicion regards the alarm system, but without knowing how it ties into the car and what operational controls it offers, hard to guess. Is it just an alarm or does it include a disable function?

Does the system have any sort of "I forgot my phone" bypass mode, or a setting for service? Have you tried that?

 

The aftermarket alarm was one of my first thoughts as well. I did get one of their reps on the phone with whom I spent 10 or 15 minutes, trying to chase things down and it didn't seem to him as if it was their system, but I am not 100% convinced. Their system does have an immobilization feature, but I've had their system turned off all the while, they call it Valet mode. It's fro KARR Security and I am aware of the reputation. These things have for screwing up such as immobilizing vehicles when they shouldn't. I'm not sure being in Valet mode would prevent it from immobilizing the car, however. malfunctions make devices fail in ways that are unexpected sometimes.

I am unaware of any "I forgot my phone" or service mode. Not in those terms anyway.

 

2.94 volts is low for fob batteries. They are around 3.5 volts new. Below 3 volts, it is time for a battery change. Did you try to start the car by pressing the fob right up to the start button? (not the end of the fob, but the front or back of the fob should be up to the start button. This is the emergency start mode where a fob battery is not needed but the fob must be placed right up at the start button. You could even use the fob to press the button.

 

I also strongly suspect the aftermarket alarm system. The car wasn’t dead at all, it just wasn’t able to respond to the fobs. Replace the fob batteries first, but I bet that combination of symptoms will be resolved by removing the alarm. Aftermarket remote start systems and aftermarket alarm systems are the cause of lots of issues, often from messy installation with questionable electrical connectors.

 

My initial suspicion regards the alarm system, but without knowing how it ties into the car and what operational controls it offers, hard to guess. Is it just an alarm or does it include a disable function?

Does the system have any sort of "I forgot my phone" bypass mode, or a setting for service? Have you tried that?

The aftermarket alarm was one of my first thoughts as well. I did get one of their reps on the phone with whom I spent 10 or 15 minutes, trying to chase things down and it didn't seem to him as if it was their system, but I am not 100% convinced. Their system does have an immobilization feature, but I've had their system turned off all the while. I'm not sure that would prevent it from immobilizing the car, however.

I am unaware of any (I forgot my phone close or bypass mode. Not in those terms anyway.

2.94 volts is low for fob batteries. They are around 3.5 volts new. Below 3 volts, it is time for a battery change. Did you try to start the car by pressing the fob right up to the start button? (not the end of the fob, but the front or back of the fob should be up to the start button. This is the emergency start mode where a fob battery is not needed but the fob must be placed right up at the start button. You could even use the fob to press the button.

Thanks for suggesting the emergency start mode. Yes, I tried that a few times.

 

Yesterday when I checked the voltage of the battery I did so under the hood and after a little while of having the car on charge. The voltage was 12.6 but as it turns out, I think that was a surface charge because when I checked the battery itself this morning the voltage was more nearly 12 V.

So, after having tried jumpstarting the car with another earlier today, and having no success, I've put the car battery of my RAV4 Prime back on charge in vehicle) to see if getting its own internal voltage higher might do the trick. If that doesn't work, I'll be calling Toyota tomorrow.

 

If that doesn't work, I'll be calling Toyota tomorrow.

Hopefully this is the same dealer that handled the Karr system installation. Otherwise they may try to dodge a warranty repair.

 

The ignition circuit on my 2024 RAV4 prime model year 2024 is inoperative. The electric parking brake is engaged and I need to disengage it so the car can be pushed down a narrow driveway that tow trucks cannot navigate and the car towed then to a dealer.

The brake cannot be disengaged via the normal means because there is no power to the circuit. The battery in the vehicle has power, but the circuit and controls to activate and disengage the parking brake is dead. It appears there is no manual override for the electric parking brake.

As of right now and until I can find a way to disengage the electric parking brake, I have a $50,000 paperweight, not a car.

I have come across the idea that taking off the rear wheels disconnecting the parking brake wires at the connectors and applying DC voltage to the electric parking brakes can operate can operate them. I have also heard this is a risky procedure.

Another option I have heard about is to remove the parking brakes themselves, but this too I have heard can be risky.

My investigation so far has not been thorough so I have not come to any conclusions. This post is part of my investigations, seeking advice on what I might be able to do in order to disengage the electric parking brake.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

You’re on the right track.

remove the wire harness at the parking brake motor. Apply power and ground to the terminals on the motor. If it doesn’t release, simply reverse the polarity.

 

Have you ever done this; know of anybody that has?

 

What’s wrong with the ignition circuit?

Is it as simple as a dead battery in the key fob?

 

Apparently, my 2 threads have been merged. So to answer your question just look above, in short, however, no, it's not the fob batteries.

 

The parking brake function is a servo (motor) that compresses the pistons in the rear brake caliper to solidly hold the brake pads against the rotor. I don’t see how to remove the servo while it’s on. I don’t know if the servo can be operated by 12V DC power through a wiring harness connector. That would need to be checked via a wiring diagram.

Did the idea about using skids and a winch I posted in your other thread not work in your situation?

 

The parking brake function is a servo (motor) that compresses the pistons in the rear brake caliper to solidly hold the brake pads against the rotor. I don’t see how to remove the servo while it’s on. I don’t know if the servo can be operated by 12V DC power through a wiring harness connector. That would need to be checked via a wiring diagram.

Did the idea about using skids and a winch I posted in your other thread not work in your situation?

I saw a YouTube video that showed a connector right at the brakes and information elsewhere suggests disconnecting that and applying 12 V to run the parking brake motor in order to release the brakes.

I didn't see any message about skids (I'm having a lot of trouble with the forum interface) but it's a smashing idea, or at least it would be if we didn't have to go around a tight corner and if there was more room in the driveway. It's so tight that any sideways motion of the vehicle would result in damage from a building or a concrete wall. I think that would more than likely happen especially considering there's a downward slope in the driveway and inertia might get the better of the situation. Too risky even if it was a straight shot.

 

A couple quick related questions, assuming you can get the rear wheels rolling. Have you checked to see if you can get the transmission in neutral so the front wheels can roll? Are you sure the front wheels can be braked without power brakes?

And, have you called the dealer service dept to see if they have an easy solution?

 

I can get the transmission into neutral. There is a small trim cover about 1/2" square in front and to the right of the shifter. Under that is a button that can be pressed with the key or another object that allows you to shift out of park.

Research indicates the front brakes should be operative without power. I hope that is correct. I may have to deal with a steering column that is locked, however I haven't assessed that yet. It keeps getting better, doesn't it?

I have spoken with several dealers, independent shops and Toyota of America to no avail but I am awaiting further info from the selling dealer.

 

RussG, is your RAV4 still under warranty? Have you talked to the dealer about this issue?

I believe that the warranty includes towing to a dealership. You might see if the dealer will tow your vehicle, then it is their responsibility to get it safely from your driveway to the dealer for repair.

 

RussG, is your RAV4 still under warranty? Have you talked to the dealer about this issue?

I believe that the warranty includes towing to a dealership. You might see if the dealer will tow your vehicle, then it is their responsibility to get it safely from your driveway to the dealer for repair.

Yes, the vehicle is under warranty, Gold Certified Used Warranty, and I have Toyota Roadside Assistance. Neither has proven to be of any value in this situation. None whatsoever.

The problem here, that is besides the car being dead in the water, is that it is in a small parking lot up along and very narrow, sloping driveway. Two tow trucks have been here and cannot get into the driveway. The driveway is too narrow to allow dollies with wheels that extend on the sides of the car to fit down the driveway. It appears that the only way to get the car to the street where it can be towed will be to push it down the driveway.

I've talked to Toyota Of America, the selling dealer, other Toyota dealers, independent, shops, and as of right now it's uncertain as to whether or not the vehicle can be moved at all!

This is a problem with Toyota's design of the vehicle. They have left no way to manually disable the parking brake or steering column as far as I know and have been able to determine. So, if you have similar issues where a wrecker can't reach your car you may have to just leave it there until it rusts away.

Parking rules in my apartment building prohibit keeping disabled vehicles in the parking lot and signs threaten that your vehicle will be towed. If the building management would only make good on its threat to tow disabled vehicles that would be doing me a favor because so far I haven't been able to arrange for towing myself and it's exactly what I want and need. How's that for an irony?

 

UPDATE: My situation has not changed since my last post. This update is to reference a YouTube video Toyota RAV4 (2019-2025): How To Service Rear Brakes? Electrical Parking Brake Actuator Release! where the parking brake piston is actuated using a common 9 volt alkaline battery. It is also actuated using a battery pack of 1.5 volt AA batteries wired in series to make 12 volts. So, this would seem to show that it is possible to actuate the parking brake motors. Based on the comments this method has worked successfully for more than a few people. If I could do this I might be able to move my RAV4, but there are a couple things I don't understand.

The first is that in the video at the beginning the poster deactivates the parking park via what I presume is the usual method using the car's buttons. This assumes a properly functioning vehicle which I do not have. I don't understand why this would even be necessary if the motor is just going to be operated manually later on anyway.

Next, when the motor is actuated with the batteries it drives the caliper piston out in order to set the brake, but when operated in reverse the caliper piston does not retract and is hand pressed back into the housing. So how does this normally work in a properly funtioning car? If the piston isn't retracted why wouldn't the parking brake remain in the engaged position? Is it simply to eliminate the positive pressure from the piston to allow the brake pads enough separation from the disks? Is that what happens in normal braking? Pistons don't pull the pads away from the discs. Right? One of the AI bots suggested that the battery method doesn't have enough power to retract the piston even though the motor operates.

I'm trying to understand as much as possible before attempting this operation if it indeed comes to that.

Thanks.

 

The first is that in the video at the beginning the poster deactivates the parking park via what I presume is the usual method using the car's buttons. This assumes a properly functioning vehicle which I do not have. I don't understand why this would even be necessary if the motor is just going to be operated manually later on anyway.

It wasn't necessary. I think he did it so that the first time he connected the battery to the EPB motor it would have visible movement of the piston. Just my guess.

Next, when the motor is actuated with the batteries it drives the caliper piston out in order to set the brake, but when operated in reverse the caliper piston does not retract and is hand pressed back into the housing. So how does this normally work in a properly funtioning car? If the piston isn't retracted why wouldn't the parking brake remain in the engaged position? Is it simply to eliminate the positive pressure from the piston to allow the brake pads enough separation from the disks? Is that what happens in normal braking? Pistons don't pull the pads away from the discs. Right?

Right.

One of the AI bots suggested that the battery method doesn't have enough power to retract the piston even though the motor operates.

Since reversing the EPB motor does not retract the piston, as seen in the video, it is not an issue for the 9V battery. Just run the motor in reverse several seconds to release the pressure on the piston, the brake will be released, and then the wheel can turn.

 

UPDATE: "NO GO"

I was really hopeful and fully expected my plan to operate the electric parking brake motors (EPB) via an external power supply so as to release the parking brake and push the car down the driveway to a waiting wrecker would work, but it did not.

After getting the rear left of the car jacked up and supporting the car with a jack stand at the rear I pulled the wheel. The connector for the EPB motor was easily accessible and with a squeeze on the connector to release the latching mechanism it detached easily. I had some test leads with small alligor clips that clipped easily to the connectors and applied current from a 9 volt household battery as I had seen done in a YouTube video. The EPB motor turned, but only for a fraction of a second when it made a tinly clunk as if it had reached the end of its travel. I thought, OK, the piston is in the locked position so it can't travel any further and I need to reverse the polarity to get the motor to spin the other direction and release the pressure off the piston, but when I did I simply got the same result of the motor spinning for a fraction of a second followed by that same little clunk. I then tried a different power supply, my 4 amp battery charger but the results were similar.

So, I have as $50,000 paperweight in the parking lot that cannot be moved. The selling dealer and Toyota of America have both essentially shrugged their shoulders and said they can't help.

Any additional ideas would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: The plan is now to remove the EPB motors and back off the screw drive that moves the piston manually if I can get to the components and have the tools needed.

 

I then tried a different power supply, my 4 amp battery charger but the results were similar.

That is certainly not the expected result. The EPB motor should run much longer than a fraction of a second in one direction. Did you try "rocking" the motor by reversing the applied voltage several times? Are you sure the 4 amp charger is delivering full power -- it's not in some sort of trickle charge mode?

 

Small wheel Dollie’s are very common for moving classic cars around a lot or garage, and they are usually very compact. I’ve even seen them used in commercial parking lots to move a car that blocked someone in. I’ve seen them in stock Harbor Freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/autom...es/wheel/2500-lb-capacity-professional-steel-vehicle-dollies-2-piece-58394.html

Just jack up both rear wheels and put them on the small Dollie’s, put the transmission in neutral, and roll the car out until a wrecker can hook it up.

 

Try another 7mm hex bit, especially if yours is a cheap one. If the dealer tech got a 7mm to fit, you can too.

 

The 9 volt battery is really meant to power electronics, so it is not surprising that it cannot operate the parking brake motor under load. Many modern 12 volt battery chargers require battery voltage to be present before they apply power. So if you try to charge a dead battery, the charger never starts applying power. In this case, there is no battery, so the charger might not be supplying any power. What I would do is to use jumper cables to get power from the battery closer and connect the jumper cables to the smaller leads you have been using at the connector. Just make sure that the positive and negative cables do not contact each other.

When it says the tech "made" a tool using a 7 mm hex bit, I wonder if he ground the faces of the bit a little to get it to fit.

 

Using the car battery did the trick! Thanks.

 

UPDATE: Success in disengaging the parking brake.

Running the parking brake motors finally worked. After trying a 9v battery and a 4 amp battery charger, I hooked directly up to the car battery, and this did the trick. I guess the other power sources just didn't have the amperage to spin the EPB motors while the calipers were still on and the parking brake pistons were under pressure.

Now I need to get the tow company to push the car down the driveway and the Toyota dealer to find and fix the problem.

Thanks everyone.

 

I think that was a astute observation about modern battery chargers but mine is really old. It predates digital displays and has an analog meter. When you hook it up it begins charging and doesn't stop until you disconnect it. Unlike today's "smart chargers" I think it would be fair to call mine dumb

Also, you were correct about using power straight from the car battery. Whereas a 9v battery and my 4 amp charger failed to turn the EPB motors the car battery made quick work of it.

Thanks for your help.

 

UPDATE 10/1/25

The car is in the shop being diagnosed. The "technician found a loss of communication from the immobilizer ECU" is all I know so far about the current situation and "the junction block was replaced according to previous history".

The tech suspected the removal of the KARR Security System as being involved but the removal occurred after the car died, not before. I am waiting for more information from the dealer.

Meanwhile, does anyone know where I can get a full list of OBD codes for the 2024 RAV4 Prime?

 

Meanwhile, does anyone know where I can get a full list of OBD codes for the 2024 RAV4 Prime?

This may not be all, but it's a list of 48 codes. Includes a description and possible solutions for each.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/toyota-engine-trouble-codes

 

Thanks so much for that.

In poking around I realized that while OBD readers are devices to read fault codes the codes themselves appear to be referred to as DTC (dignostic trouble codes). So, when I asked about OBD codes it may have been the wrong way of expressing what I was looking for. I should have asked about DTC codes.

That said I believe there are a great many more codes not in the list you provided. In fact, when I searched for DTC codes instead of OBD codes I found this page here on RAV4World. It links to this page on dtcdecode.com. The dtcdecode.com page lists a lot of DTCs. In order to see what each means you have to click on the DTC in order to get a description. In other words the page is set up so you can look up descriptions of what trouble codes mean which is probably the most common order of how things happen, but you can't do it the other way around, you can't search for codes associated with known issues.

 

UPDATE: 10/4/25

The car remains in the shop awaiting a part, something to do with the immobilizer, I was told by the service writer that called me. At this time it's unclear exactly which part that is but as I reported in post 44 the "immobilizer ECU" was mentioned. I hope to report more on this later.

In this post I want to offer some info that may help others who find themselves in the situation of needing to move their Toyota RAV4, possibly other models as well, when their electric parking brake (EPB) is engaged and it seems there is no way to disengage it, and the vehicle in in Park with no apparent way to shift into neutral.

I addressed the bit about being stuck in park in post 26 where I wrote "I can get the transmission into neutral. There is a small trim cover about 1/2" square in front and to the right of the shifter. Under that is a button that can be pressed with the key or another object that allows you to shift out of park".

When it comes to disengaging the EPB I wrote about that too. Discussion about this is in several posts above with me mentioning that I finally had success in post 37. Here I want to add something that may prove to be of importance to people in similar to predicaments, and that is once you get the EPB disengaged by jumping the EPB motors (or otherwise), you may not want to reconnect the motors to the main wiring harness until after you've gotten the vehicle where you need it to go. Here's why...

After I got the EPB disengaged I clipped the EPB motor connectors back into the wiring harness and when the wreckers got here to push my car to their truck the EPB re-engaged while pushing the car making it necessary to jack it up, remove the wheels, and jump the EPB motors all over again! This time I didn't reconnect the motors to the harness and the car rolled to the wrecker without issue.

It would seem that although the EPB was inoperative via the usual means (the switch inside the passenger compartment), there was still some communication between the car's electronics and the motors and this caused the EPB to re-engage while we were trying to move the car. This is why I say you may not want to reconnect the EPB motors to the harness until after you've gotten your car where you need it to be and won't need to move it again before placing it back in service. If you do reconnect the motors before then you may find, as did I, that you need to jump them again.

So that is in essence the main reason for this post.