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Discussion Starter #1
Ok this is the second time my 99 rav4 L did this 2 me and I can't quite put my finger on it unless my car is now haunted ....here's the issue ... and keep in mind it don't do it all the time. Ok so I get in all lights seem fine on dash I put in the key push the clutch and turn the key it acts as if the battery dropped to dead. Ok now I open the door again door light pops on I close it I repeat the clutch key etc. Sometimes its starts or it drops to dead again. If it starts it says started and drives fine no issue no nothing if not I repeat till it finally starts up
 

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Probably a just loose battery cable. Disconnect them, clean the terminals and tighten.
 

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I agree with Dr. Dyno.

Leave the door open so that the interior ceiling light remains on when you attempt to start the engine.

If that light goes out (or dims significantly) when cranking the engine, then the problem is almost certainly a loose or corroded connection at the battery. Remove the cables from the battery posts, clean the connectors and the battery posts, then re-attach.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok I'm gunna try this but giving the nature of it all idk that this would be the issue unless maybe the shake of the door closing putting back in place ect.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well it was cold and dark out so I didn't stay long but it seems no matter how much I try to tighten it the negative connector seems to wiggle so you guys may have nailed it I'll check it out better in the morning and replace it if it won't tighten ... I never would have figured this to be the issue giving the events of it
 

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2008 RAV4 Limited V6
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DrDyno and Rickl, could this also possibly be a bad ground? I have heard that replacing the ground wire to the body and engine block cures a lot of problems on the 4.1 generations.
 

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DrDyno and Rickl, could this also possibly be a bad ground? I have heard that replacing the ground wire to the body and engine block cures a lot of problems on the 4.1 generations.
Yeah, that's possible. We were just giving him the most common solution first - and it seems we may have been right.

SpykeSimensky, Yes, with a bad connection almost any little thing can make it connect or not. One test I used on older cars was to turn on the headlights and see which battery post got hot. Sometimes it sizzled and got too hot to touch! Those were the days.
Another definitive test is measuring the voltage drop from the post itself to the terminal with a load such as the headlights on.
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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I never could keep a good connection with the old style lead clamp type terminals. mine was always getting loose somehow on their own, even with the terminal tightened all the way and coating with that red anti corrosion stuff. I went to the new fangled clamp type, like these https://www.amazon.com/MOTOPOWER-Battery-Connectors-Disconnect-Terminals/dp/B01E9591F6/ref=sr_1_18?ie=UTF8&qid=1483153005&sr=8-18&keywords=battery+terminals. And, I replaced the negative terminal wire with some 2 gauge wire I had left over from a boat project.

Pros:
Easy to remove when servicing engine or if I'm going to leave it parked a long time.
Always has had a good tight connection.
Looks good.

Cons:
I had to modify the covers with a terminal so the negative cover would close properly with 2 gauge wire running into it.
And I had to modify the positive terminal cover so that the flat plate didn't interfere with it clamping down properly.
 

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The lead style terminals as on my F-250s can be tightened by removing the bolt and cutting a larger slot in the gap so it won't close up when tightened again.

The copper ring ones usually have to be replaced because they disintegrate over time. When using just new ends as in the Amazon link the weak point is where the cable attaches. Soldering it is best.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
But now that it's light out I'll run a few tests and see if I can tighten that beast down if not I'll replace it ....I normally you'll have thought it to be that 2 but the symptoms were so weird it made me where I never would have guessed it lol
 

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1999 Toyota RAV4 with 3MZ-FE 6 cylinder engine, camo wrap, OME lift, heavily modded
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Did you get it fixed? If so, what was the final solution(s)?
 
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