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Did you or anyone else end up purchasing Kit-ST215 for your Rav4? I'm wanting to use this kit for my 2007 but want to confirm it works with this year. Thanks.
 

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Joined the forum so I could provide some input on this....

I just bought a RAV4 and it is experiencing this issue. My mechanic told me my rear differential was bad, but i stumbled upon this forum and found this threat.

Thank you all.

Now! I ordered the kit and will be creating a write up next weekend. (11/3/18) I am hoping it is just the front bearing.


Does anyone have any tips (that did this before)?
 

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Looking forward to your write up. I think I need to do the same bearing fix or electromagnetic coupler replacement as well. I am at about 135,000 miles.


For those of you that are interested I did find a you tube post that explains the mechanicals of Toyota all wheel drive. Search:
Crossover AWD / 4WD Systems

Sorry I cant post links.
 

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What about the dust shield ? anyone bought one ? I found a Toyota service bulletin that shows the rebuild of these. Seems they want you to buy the Cover Sub-assembly (aluminum casting w/bearing installed I presume),Dust seal and Deflector.
I have an extra (replaced once already and kept old parts, before realising a warranty was in place, now problem has resurfaced and no Toyota coverage !!). I have pushed out the coupling body and bearing, seems all I need are the bearing, seal and deflector. When looking at the pics. in the service bulletin it looks as thought the housing has been changed somewhat hence the need to replace the old style.
I'd still like to buy the 3 pcs. and see if I can make this work. So how does one find the parts ? The P/N's are listed in the bulletin.

BTW...…. the bulletin is T-SB-0080-13

Thanks,
Steve
 

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Hey Steve,

I created a new thread (rear-differential-coupling-growl-whine-noise) on this with a complete breakdown of everything I did but I'll sum it up here. I was hoping mine would get stickied as it lists out everything you need in the first post. I don't think the OP gave much detail on this nor lists that you need to have this pressed in and out.

Basically you need to see how bad the housing is. They list out several pictures of "Acceptable" wear. The mechanic I gave mine to (Because it needs to be hydraulic pressed in and out) cleaned the housing and dust deflector. Trust me that's all you need. (Unless it is warped)

The only part I bought was a new Bearing. Feel free to look at my thread for the bearing kit part #. I don't know it off hand, as far as the dust cover, you don't need a new one. I would just clean up your old one.

The bearing suffers from not being sealed on both sides and the O-Ring around the bearing fails. Once it fails, the water gets into the bearing and messes it up. The Bearing I listed in mine is sealed on both sides.





What about the dust shield ? anyone bought one ? I found a Toyota service bulletin that shows the rebuild of these. Seems they want you to buy the Cover Sub-assembly (aluminum casting w/bearing installed I presume),Dust seal and Deflector.
I have an extra (replaced once already and kept old parts, before realising a warranty was in place, now problem has resurfaced and no Toyota coverage !!). I have pushed out the coupling body and bearing, seems all I need are the bearing, seal and deflector. When looking at the pics. in the service bulletin it looks as thought the housing has been changed somewhat hence the need to replace the old style.
I'd still like to buy the 3 pcs. and see if I can make this work. So how does one find the parts ? The P/N's are listed in the bulletin.

BTW...…. the bulletin is T-SB-0080-13

Thanks,
Steve
 

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I have a 2012 Rav4, 4 cyl, 4x4. I don't have the noise yet, but I did have oil leakage out the front. We did clean the vent and change the axle seal, but I can't get a clear picture of what needs to be done in front. It seems the only front seal is the bearing since the "seal" is just for dust? I've seen pictures of the packing seal inside, but my diff seems to be open to the magnetic clutch housing at the bottom so I don't see this having much impact. There are no wires to my magnetic clutch housing... I'm at a loss to explain how it's controlled, or are there major differences for the 2012 compared to the earlier ones? Is it possible I have a 2013 housing and it's different from the pics I'm looking at? I'm confused...
 

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whtbaron - you have an oil leakage out the dust shield? That seems very strange. However, your seal could be busted because the one I had was an "O ring" around a bearing and one side wasn't sealed.

I had no wires on mine either. I think there is a misconception on here that there are wires going to it. Even on the Service bulletin there is no wires going to it.

I also attached a picture. I am hoping this helps you out. I also made a thread with some more in depth info.
 

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Is the oil flow to the front blocked at the packing seal, or is the gear oil supposed to get into the electromagnetic clutch housing? Can anyone explain how that clutch is working without a power source? And thank you very much for your responses... I wish Toyota would supply better diagrams and exploded views in their bulletins.
 

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Is the oil flow to the front blocked at the packing seal, or is the gear oil supposed to get into the electromagnetic clutch housing? Can anyone explain how that clutch is working without a power source? And thank you very much for your responses... I wish Toyota would supply better diagrams and exploded views in their bulletins.
Sure so here are my thoughts.

1) Power is coming from the Driveshaft. The driveshaft is connected directly to the Coupler and spins it. Coupler goes into the Rear Diff and power will get distributed to the wheels.

2) For the gear oil, I think the best answer is around page 8 on T-SB-0080-13. To me, yes there will be oil coming out of the Rear Diff when you detach the coupler, but that is only supposed to go inside the interior of the coupler housing (reference T-SB-0080-13) . When the big bearing came out (Front one) the bearing wasn't oily.
 

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I've ordered the kit and am waiting for it to arrive. I will post back once I get a chance to install it.

Hey guys. Sorry it took so long to post an update, I ended up hurting my back so I didn't get at this a soon as I wanted to. Anyways I can confirm that KIT-ST215 did work for my 2007. I also had a hard time getting the drive shaft to release like others had mentioned. It took a lot of light tapping with a hammer and some penetrating oil before it would budge.



I ended up taking the coupler to a machine shop to get them to press the bearing out and the new one in. Paid the guy $40. Well worth it. Put it all back together and everything seemed to be going well until I went to check the differential fluid level (as I did lose some fluid when I removed the coupler) only to find the level check/fill hex bold was stripped. Took a look at the hex drain bolt and it was also stripped. Appears someone had opened these in the past and made a mess of them.(I've only had the vehicle for about 7 months.). I ended up using a Dremel tool to make a groove in the edge of the drain bolt and then used a chisel and hammer and eventually got it to spin loose. Bought a new bolt and pumped the fluid in through the drain hole.(couldn't get a hammer and chisel anywhere near the level check/fill bolt).



So the original planned work of replacing the bearing went fairly smooth, the %$&*@$!'ing drain plug issue ended up causing it to be a day long project. But I'm happy to report that the jet engine noise is gone and it only cost me $20 for the parts versus $2000 at the sdealer!
 

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Sure so here are my thoughts.

1) Power is coming from the Driveshaft. The driveshaft is connected directly to the Coupler and spins it. Coupler goes into the Rear Diff and power will get distributed to the wheels.

2) For the gear oil, I think the best answer is around page 8 on T-SB-0080-13. To me, yes there will be oil coming out of the Rear Diff when you detach the coupler, but that is only supposed to go inside the interior of the coupler housing (reference T-SB-0080-13) . When the big bearing came out (Front one) the bearing wasn't oily.
But isn't the purpose of the electromagnetic clutch to engage/disengage the 4 wheel drive on demand from the computer? If it's just a direct drive, then why bother having it there at all?
 

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But isn't the purpose of the electromagnetic clutch to engage/disengage the 4 wheel drive on demand from the computer? If it's just a direct drive, then why bother having it there at all?
If you only drove straight and all four tires had the same circumference you could direct drive the rear wheels. But there has to be some way to let the rear wheels run slower than the fronts on cornering since they take a shorter path. And tires are rarely exactly the same circumference either due to wear and air pressure.

On trucks like my F-250 you can't use 4WD on dry pavement since the front and rear driveshafts ARE locked together causing an effect commonly called "crabbing" on corners. It forces one or more of the tires to slip with a jerking motion that puts tremendous strain on the drivetrain components.

Some manufacturers "solve" the problem with a viscous coupling that allows for some slip but can be ruined simply by driving with differing wear on the tires. I much prefer the RAV4's system with the electro-coupler.
 

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So far cleaning the vent and changing the axle seal seems to have fixed my leakage, so hopefully it won't be giving me another lesson in Toyota parts any time soon. Our 09 never wore out tires, but the 012 has been hard on them from day one. My mechanic has been playing with camber and toe in settings but we couldn't reach a point where we could eliminate excessive tire wear without making the back end unstable on slippery surfaces. Today we put the adjustable struts on so hopefully we've got it aced. If the tires hold up, it feels better anyway.
 

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Should probably have moved this to it's own post, but we did run into a minor issue with the adjustable struts. Since the particular pair I was able to access locally aren't a direct bolt in, I had to drill out the bushing end to 17 mm to fit the 2012 Rav, and I shortened the extended adjustment nut by about 3/4" to increase adjustment. Once installed the traction control light came on, which also causes the cruise control to malfunction. Since we had corrected the dog track issue the car had from day one, we had to re-set the center for the steering wheel in the computer settings. Everything seems fine now, and handles much better on ice.
 

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In two hours I removed driveshaft then coupler. Removed noisy front bearing. Replaced with new bearing and put it all back together no more noise nice and quiet. 18$ for the bearing you don't need to hassle with the warranty or dealers. Simple job.

Is this a completely separate issue to the common transmission whine? It appears my 2011 is still under a extended warranty through Toyota for this rear diff but they said it was my transmission. Any easy way to tell which drivetrain issue is which? My noise I can hear quietly even from start and then it gets far more noticeable around 38mph up to 60mph then I think wind/ road noise hides it. It sounds like a quieter 4x4 4LOW sound.
 
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