Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

81 - 100 of 132 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
The rear drive actually engages every time you start off. One diagnostic that's easy to run is disconnecting the connector from the 4WD ECU behind the glove box. Then driving down the road everything in the rear will still be turning but not under power. With the car on jack stands only the front wheels will turn. You may be able to make a judgement based on the changes in sound.
I just purchased my 2009 V6 4WD with 92k miles. I am in the same situation. Am in South Florida running from Hurricane Dorian and driving back to Phoenix. (Missed us thankfully.)
The local dealer said that my rear diff was gone and at $3800+ could be fixed.
I had them change the transfer belt $275+.
My question:
I would like to attempt to disconnect my 4WD ECU. If it stops the sound, is it safe to leave it disconnected for the 2000 miles I need to get home and get it properly diagnosed? Will it hurt anything? I will be doing highway. Please help as I will be moving on North soon.
Thank you in advance,
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,743 Posts
Since the 4WD ECU stops sending a signal to the rear coupler at low speeds (20-30 mph) anyway disconnecting it couldn't hurt IMO.
Never heard of a transfer belt. What does the invoice list?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Since the 4WD ECU stops sending a signal to the rear coupler at low speeds (20-30 mph) anyway disconnecting it couldn't hurt IMO.
Never heard of a transfer belt. What does the invoice list?
Sorry, it was the drive belt that they replaced. Part 99367-K1550.
Then stated completed fan belt replacement = $219.95
My suspicion is this. I took the vehicle to 2 Toyota mechanics before taking it to the dealer.
They both cleared me for travel with the exception of the previous owner removing the run flats and replacing with standard tires...I have no spare, jack, etc...I do have AAA
The sound is identical to what all are saying however, I am a blonde woman....many mechanics think that equates to dumb...
I went to the tools I have on hand. No metrics and I believe the removal of the 4WD ECU coupler requires a 10 mm to get to it? Is that correct? I travel in 2 days and don’t want to be stranded.
Thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Sorry, it was the drive belt that they replaced. Part 99367-K1550.
Then stated completed fan belt replacement = $219.95
My suspicion is this. I took the vehicle to 2 Toyota mechanics before taking it to the dealer.
They both cleared me for travel with the exception of the previous owner removing the run flats and replacing with standard tires...I have no spare, jack, etc...I do have AAA
The sound is identical to what all are saying however, I am a blonde woman....many mechanics think that equates to dumb...
I went to the tools I have on hand. No metrics and I believe the removal of the 4WD ECU coupler requires a 10 mm to get to it? Is that correct? I travel in 2 days and don’t want to be stranded.
Thank you
Checked the car fax...drive belt replace at 51k... rear strut insert cartridge and Tranny fluid replaced at 90k.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,743 Posts
The serpentine belt likely didn't need replacement. They can last 200K.
No tools needed for the disconnect. Just drop the glove box for access. Explained somewhere on the forum but I don't have time to find it now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Well, I ordered a Febest ST215 kit and dropped what I thought was the apparatus that i thought needs work. It doesn't appear to be electromagnetic at all, though. Is this, right here, what you all are repairing with the ST215 kit for coupler bearing noise?

145199


I notice that this deal has a wide flange on It (seen on the left end above) that I'm afraid to try and remove, to press the guts out. Now - given that this same noise problem was addressed once before under warranty some 60-80k miles ago before, might what I have be a replacement that has something on it not seen on the original? Or, is my repair actually the mechanism behind this one that's actually inside the differential housing with a wire connector leading to it?

Thanks,
Ted
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Just did this on my wife’s 2010 yesterday. Pretty easy install overall. For those requiring the narrower bearing that Toyota switched to the correct NSK part number is 95DSF01. The difference from the one posted earlier is an integrated o-ring in the outer wall of the bearing. I unfortunately only had the 6819-2RS on had which is the same size but lacks the integrated o-ring. Hardest part was seating the coupler back into the housing, I had to heat up the housing to get it to expand and then knock the housing down to get it to sit flush. Changed out diff fluid while I was in there, I opted to replace the drain and fill plugs with new ones since they were corroded. No more noise, car rides smooth. Good for another 100k miles!

I’ve linked a video of the bearing sound before and after

Before:

After:



B52C4409-CEC6-44FF-83FE-57145C728A4A.jpeg


89675005-15B4-4723-8AD8-A0FB9DFDB480.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Well, I ordered a Febest ST215 kit and dropped what I thought was the apparatus that i thought needs work. It doesn't appear to be electromagnetic at all, though. Is this, right here, what you all are repairing with the ST215 kit for coupler bearing noise?

View attachment 145199

I notice that this deal has a wide flange on It (seen on the left end above) that I'm afraid to try and remove, to press the guts out. Now - given that this same noise problem was addressed once before under warranty some 60-80k miles ago before, might what I have be a replacement that has something on it not seen on the original? Or, is my repair actually the mechanism behind this one that's actually inside the differential housing with a wire connector leading to it?

Thanks,
Ted

Did you read the TIS noted earlier in the post? It answers your question and outlines how to remove the bearing
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I just got my Febest ST-215 kit by DHL. Grateful if someone can advise shops ( other than dealers) that can perform this repair in Totonto GTA.
Look forward to recommendations.
I live in innisfil, i ask shops around barrie area and all they want to do is conduct diagnostic first which you will pay and they will decide what’s best to do. They won’t listen if you ask them to change the bearing of coupler which some of them never seen one or heard of. If you have a place to work and time, it’s easy to change but needs a lot of time and hammering depends on the rust condition of the bearing. You have to change differential oil too as it will leak a little. There’s a guy on youtube who change the bearing recently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
There are not many places that will do it. I was lucky in Ottawa that a transmission shop is owned by immigrants from africa where these bearing are replaced routinely and the owners know where to access the bearings etc. It almost seems like a conspiracy by Auto manufacturers where they allow "certain" cheaper repairs in some countries but not in others
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
There are not many places that will do it. I was lucky in Ottawa that a transmission shop is owned by immigrants from africa where these bearing are replaced routinely and the owners know where to access the bearings etc. It almost seems like a conspiracy by Auto manufacturers where they allow "certain" cheaper repairs in some countries but not in others
Can you list the shop name or pm me with their details. I want to get mine done and see how they compare. Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
There are not many places that will do it. I was lucky in Ottawa that a transmission shop is owned by immigrants from africa where these bearing are replaced routinely and the owners know where to access the bearings etc. It almost seems like a conspiracy by Auto manufacturers where they allow "certain" cheaper repairs in some countries but not in others
If you don’t mind, how much did you pay?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
update: I ordered the FITBEST ST 215 kit from Australia. Received and went to local garage in Ottawa. They never heard of replacing the bearings so they referred me to BN transmission on Glendale in Ottawa. They knew exactly what I was talking about and replaced my bearings. The ST-215 kit had the incorrect oil seal so that cost me $15 extra from dealer. Total bill was $488. 3.5 hours labour, oil seal, oil, taxes.

I asked the mechanic.. " how long will this last?" ..... reply ......"6 to 12 months"o_O...
So your price didn't include the bearings. Do they know where to procure them or I am best buying them and supplying them?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Did you read the TIS noted earlier in the post? It answers your question and outlines how to remove the bearing

Hi,

Sorry for the late response, due to health problems. I did read TSB-0080-13 and have no fear of the process, assuming I have the correct replacement parts [ST215].

My question is very specific: Does it appear as if my coupling has some sort of deflector or shield on it - and if so, does it come off/how does one press out the guts when the deflector is wider than the housing?

Here is what I have. Please notice the rim around the top.thst overlaps the housing -
  1. 146788
......while this is the couping front face everyone seems to be working with (and the face as seen in the TSB) -

146787


No extra part to get in the way of pressing things apart.

Has anyone worked with this refinement? Is it meant to be serviceable? Does the rim or shield or whatever it is come off [undamaged]?

That's what I've been trying to ask, really. I appreciate the help to date and now need to focus on what's seen in the first photo, if anyone is familiar with that version.

- Ted
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
I notice that this deal has a wide flange on It (seen on the left end above) that I'm afraid to try and remove, to press the guts out. Now - given that this same noise problem was addressed once before under warranty some 60-80k miles ago before, might what I have be a replacement that has something on it not seen on the original? Or, is my repair actually the mechanism behind this one that's actually inside the differential housing with a wire connector leading to it?

Nobody? I'm the only one who has seen this variant of coupling?

My best guess is that - knowing that this coupling was replaced once already under warranty - that the bright metal ring must be the "deflector" seen in various eBay sales for applicable couipler bearing kits. That is, if the dealer replacement part came with such a deflector, the appearance seems consistent with other aftermarket kits around.

Guess I'll see what happens under a press when I get tired enough of hearing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Nobody? I'm the only one who has seen this variant of coupling?

My best guess is that - knowing that this coupling was replaced once already under warranty - that the bright metal ring must be the "deflector" seen in various eBay sales for applicable couipler bearing kits. That is, if the dealer replacement part came with such a deflector, the appearance seems consistent with other aftermarket kits around.

Guess I'll see what happens under a press when I get tired enough of hearing it.
I don’t understand the question.Yours looks exactly as it does on the TSB which is why I suggested taking a look at it. this is figure 30 taken directly from the TSB. I imagine it’d simply be reversing the install
1806AAB8-00DF-4E2B-96E7-27D7A4CD856C.jpeg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
90 Posts
Well, I've got nothing. No excuse, that is. Must not have gone far enough down info the TSB or something, perhaps the wages of post-op infection and the battle bring fought recently on that front.... or perhaps abject stupidity.

Thanks for setting me straight. We'll take it apart as soon as I can get under a car again. I appreciate the help, very much.


- Ted
 
81 - 100 of 132 Posts
Top