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Well, I've got nothing. No excuse, that is. Must not have gone far enough down info the TSB or something, perhaps the wages of post-op infection and the battle bring fought recently on that front.... or perhaps abject stupidity.

Thanks for setting me straight. We'll take it apart as soon as I can get under a car again. I appreciate the help, very much.


- Ted
happens to the best of us. Feel better and good luck
 

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Did you ever figure out what the other sound is? Mine has a clunking sound that happrns when I am driving and is especially apparent when under load at low speed going up an incline. Like 5mph to 10mph

I cannot figure it out for the life of me!

Could it be a ball joint in the suspension?

Does anyone know?

I suspect that I was charged the time for the test drives? perhaps. ... My rav actually had two noises... 1. the whine/hum of the coupler. 2 an occassional rattle or fluttering from under the car. The rattle is ALMOST all gone. On my drive to work I heard it twice for only about 1/4to1/2 second each time. That is A LOT less than from before the replacement. That tells me that the rattle is likely at least affected by the coupler. What I suspect is that the u-joints are perhaps wearing out and "could" be impacting the coupler issue. If you think about it, the ujoint being slightly wore will put stress on the coupler bearing and vice versa. anyone else have that issue?
 

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If your Rav4 is 2006-2012 (US-CA) you do not have to do this repair yourself....
GO TO THE DEALER!....YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THIS REPAIR YOURSELF!...Today, 01-22-2020, I had my 2012 Rav4 with 142k miles fixed for free!!! they have extended the replacement from 60k miles to unlimited.....saved me from a $2900 estemate by another shop.


2012 Rav4 TSB.jpg
 

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If your Rav4 is 2006-2012 (US-CA) you do not have to do this repair yourself....
GO TO THE DEALER!....YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THIS REPAIR YOURSELF!...Today, 01-22-2020, I had my 2012 Rav4 with 142k miles fixed for free!!! they have extended the replacement from 60k miles to unlimited.....saved me from a $2900 estemate by another shop.


2012 Rav4 TSB.jpg
  • What do you have to tell the dealer for them to repair it for free?
Edit***
I just went to toyota (because I was in for something else) and they said the warranty was only open for a certain period.

Kinda upset right now, I guess I'll just do it myself
 

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I have question about the Rear Differential Dust Deflector, I hardly found & Purchased it on line , the one fits my model Rav4 2006 (4 Cyl) is 41252-42020 , there is a Step inside the deflector which is all around. The part I received has correct Part number but inside the Ring is Flat ( looks like 41252-42013), but the box saying 41252-42020!!!! Do you think is it matter? is that going to Fit to my model? has any body tried to replace the original deflector with flat one? Thanks for any input.
 

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Can we remove the driveshaft and simply drive in fwd? I'm trying to figure out what to do on the cheap. Our 07 is used as a grocery car and we might put 5k kms on it a year. I don't want to invest much money in it but I would like to use it for another 2 yrs. (once the RDX is paid off)
 

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Can we remove the driveshaft and simply drive in fwd?
No, you can't. Just buy a FWD vehicle next.

If your Rav4 is 2006-2012 (US-CA) you do not have to do this repair yourself....
GO TO THE DEALER!....YOU DO NOT HAVE TO DO THIS REPAIR YOURSELF!...Today, 01-22-2020, I had my 2012 Rav4 with 142k miles fixed for free!!! they have extended the replacement from 60k miles to unlimited.....saved me from a $2900 estemate by another shop.
The warranty was extended only, but eventually expires.
 

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For those requiring the narrower bearing that Toyota switched to the correct NSK part number is 95DSF01. The difference from the one posted earlier is an integrated o-ring in the outer wall of the bearing. I unfortunately only had the 6819-2RS on had which is the same size but lacks the integrated o-ring.
That's interesting. The non-grooved one is $15, but the cheapest I could find the grooved one is $81.

However, the Toyota part number 95DSF01 is still not grooved, see the enlarged pic here:
 

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Can we remove the driveshaft and simply drive in fwd? I'm trying to figure out what to do on the cheap. Our 07 is used as a grocery car and we might put 5k kms on it a year. I don't want to invest much money in it but I would like to use it for another 2 yrs. (once the RDX is paid off)
I may be wrong, but I think I remember reading on here that yes, you can remove the driveshaft and drive it "normally". Do a search on here for it.
 

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Thanks for your useless answer and you provided no infor as to why not.
I may be wrong, but I think I remember reading on here that yes, you can remove the driveshaft and drive it "normally". Do a search on here for it.
I didn't think I have to explain. Driving with the driveshaft removed will ruin the central coupler by overheating due to allowing the rear to spin freely for long periods of time (without shaft it would be similar like the rear wheels are spinning on ice all the time). So the central coupler would have to be to locked all the time (normally is not) and allow the front diff to take the torque.
The locking is done by difference in rotational speeds heating the viscous silicon based fluid and by that it becomes more and more "solid". Keeping that high temperature long term affects the silicon fluid inside.

" The VC operation in the blocked mode usually has a short duration, since its prolonged blocking leads to overheating and drop of traction force of the activated axle down to zero. "
 

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149574

As you can see the EM coupling is in rear. If you remove the driveshaft, the front differential will have no load on the rear and, in order the car to move, I think that it will have to activate the VC inside transmission.
The fact that some guy drove without shaft and he thinks it's still "OK" means little. He didn't actually test the 4WD on snow conditions to see if the car still has an OK VC. And even if the VC is still OK, it doesn't mean that ALL of the VC treated like that will be fine.
IMO, I will never do it.
 

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Now that Sir, is a great and intelligent answer!! thank you
I'm just trying to find the cheapest way to keep this vehicle going as a barely used second vehicle. So for me, if it was an option to pay my mech 1hr to remove the shaft as opposed to getting the whole bearing replaced, I would have preferred that seeing we put at most 5k kms on the Rav a yr (if that) Maybe 2k kms. Looks like I'll be ordering the bearing after all. Again thank you for a great answer.
 

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Some of what SoNic67 says may apply to 4.1 & 4.2 RAV4s but the 2006-on RAV4 doesn't have a viscous coupling like Subarus and some others - even tho that's what the dealer service departments (unbelievably) call it. It has an electromagnetic-coupling as shown in the diagram. There is no VC anywhere in the system.

Except when the 4WD ECU senses it's needed the EMC is disengaged and the driveshaft is simply spinning but not transmitting any power. It can be removed w/o any loss except no rear drive. Nothing will be damaged. Pulling the plug on the 4WD ECU located forward of the glove box removes the signal to the EMC. In fact that's the first step in a diagnosis and may make the symptoms go away.
 

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Ok thanks Doc, I thought there may have been something. So remove the shaft and unplug the ECU behind the glove box.
Yep, and as I said drop the glove box and unplug the ECU first. Then remove the driveshaft if needed.
 
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