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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
About a month ago my 2008 rav4's check engine lights came on (along with the 4wd and the vsc lights of course). After a new gas cap it was still coming on so I took it to my mechanic and turns out the previous owner had a cracked evap canister which they then plugged up with some orange silicone. The mechanic quoted that the new part would be $1000! I don't have this kind of money so I'm looking into alternative solutions.

Firstly, where might I get the part cheaper? And if I can't do that, would I be able to just put some more silicone on the crack and move on with my life?
 

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Even the generic will cost you $500
2008 TOYOTA RAV4 2.4L L4 Vapor Canister | RockAuto

Here is a used one for $50.
Rav 4 2000 Fuel Vapor Canister 115994 | eBay

Hard to call a 8 year old car a lemon when the previous owner hit something.

The later year RAVs have a little skid plate over the canister. Might look into adding that. Several threads on that topic.

I'd try more silicon, reset the computer, and see if it throws the code again (within a couple hundred miles). That used option is pretty good too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Even the generic will cost you $500
2008 TOYOTA RAV4 2.4L L4 Vapor Canister | RockAuto

Here is a used one for $50.
Rav 4 2000 Fuel Vapor Canister 115994 | eBay

Hard to call a 8 year old car a lemon when the previous owner hit something.

The later year RAVs have a little skid plate over the canister. Might look into adding that. Several threads on that topic.

I'd try more silicon, reset the computer, and see if it throws the code again (within a couple hundred miles). That used option is pretty good too.
Would the 2000 part work on my 08 though? I'm going to take it to my friend's dad's today so we can look at the actual state of the crack. If it's just a case of putting some more silicone on it that would be ideal but I feel like I'm going to need to actually see it before I go buy anything. The mechanic I took it to made it seem like the whole thing would fall apart if I drove it too much more so I'm curious to see how bad of shape it's actually in.

I was thinking about that skid plate actually as I heard this was a common issue with them and mostly due to the fact that it's not protected at all. Certainly something else I'll be looking at today. Thanks for the help!
 

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Would the 2000 part work on my 08 though? I'm going to take it to my friend's dad's today so we can look at the actual state of the crack. If it's just a case of putting some more silicone on it that would be ideal but I feel like I'm going to need to actually see it before I go buy anything. The mechanic I took it to made it seem like the whole thing would fall apart if I drove it too much more so I'm curious to see how bad of shape it's actually in.

I was thinking about that skid plate actually as I heard this was a common issue with them and mostly due to the fact that it's not protected at all. Certainly something else I'll be looking at today. Thanks for the help!
You know what the can does right. It collects the gas vapors that come off the gas tank so your garage doesn't smell like gas when you park in it. The canister can be completely hammered and your car will still work fine. Your car will smell like gas when you stand next to it on a hot day, throw a check engine light and not be able to pass smog.

The car's computer periodically seals the can and the entire evap system every once in a while (different for each car but a couple of hundred miles), and checks the pressure in the system to make sure that it is sealed up.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You know what the can does right. It collects the gas vapors that come off the gas tank so your garage doesn't smell like gas when you park in it. The canister can be completely hammered and your car will still work fine. Your car will smell like gas when you stand next to it on a hot day, throw a check engine light and not be able to pass smog.

The car's computer periodically seals the can and the entire evap system every once in a while (different for each car but a couple of hundred miles), and checks the pressure in the system to make sure that it is sealed up.
Turns out it's got a skid plate already. And the part itself doesn't really seem to be in bad shape at all. So it must be just a small little leak. I don't need to worry about emissions until january so I guess I'm not going to sweat it.
At this point I'm just going to try to find the part cheap so I can replace it so it'll stop dinging the computer. No idea what else could be wrong with it.
 

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Atomictoad if you want try some JB Weld on that crack to see if that can work. The check engine light needs to be cleared from the ECM with a code reader. Also a quick way is disconnect the battery for 10 minutes to get rid of that check engine light. This clears the check engine light but the code will still be stored in the ECM memory. If the light comes back you know the fix did not work.
 

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Dorman = junk

I have had so many bad Dorman parts right out of the box it's like the shops are their QC department.

Dorman was purchased by a Chinese company, and the quality has gone way down since.

Standard is another Chinese brand that used to be good quality, but they are also junk.

This looks to be reboxed OEM. To tool up a production line for this item would be cost prohibitive.

Dealer list for this canister (part number 77740 0R010) is $833.01 (current price as of 10/25/16)

The Dorman list is $475.27

If this was my vehicle, I would clean the crack and seal it with JB Weld and let it sit overnight. Broke is broke, and if it doesn't work you are out the cost of the JB Weld and your time. If it does work, you saved big $$$ so take the wife out to dinner and a movie!
 

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The Dorman wasn't available earlier this year when I smashed my box, otherwise I would have went for it. I bought from dealer, price was negotiable. Dorman's lifetime warranty beats dealer's 30 days warranty. If I do break another, definitely going with lifetime. Judging by the threads in this forum, they seem to go bad pretty regularly.
Also, for those earlier 4.3 without the metal guard, see if the newer years will fit the older, so you get the metal guard.
 

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You know what the can does right. It collects the gas vapors that come off the gas tank so your garage doesn't smell like gas when you park in it. The canister can be completely hammered and your car will still work fine. Your car will smell like gas when you stand next to it on a hot day, throw a check engine light and not be able to pass smog.

The car's computer periodically seals the can and the entire evap system every once in a while (different for each car but a couple of hundred miles), and checks the pressure in the system to make sure that it is sealed up.
Hmmm. I wonder if this is why I get an evap leak error but only in the winter? Maybe due to the cold it’s unable to seal the can / evap system properly due to the cold?
 

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Hmmm. I wonder if this is why I get an evap leak error but only in the winter? Maybe due to the cold it’s unable to seal the can / evap system properly due to the cold?
Do you get alot of road grim in the winter. Snow slush gravel... Maybe you drive on a lot of dirt roads in the winter.
The evap can has a vent line. The vent line is attached a valve at the end of the can. This valve closes to check for leaks. Sometimes a properly functioning evap system will throw a leak code when this valve does not close and seal. On my truck, the vent line is short and doesn't have a filter on the end. All kinds of muck gets in the line and clogs the valve and a error is thrown. I find that this is the most common reason for a evap leak error code.

However maybe you have a evap leak. Maybe you cracked your can and it is leaking.
 

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I got a used one from a wreckers (actually E-Bay from a wrecked car). It cost a bit over $100 but has worked fine since I changed it. Mine had a rock go through it. I also modified the shield to make it better. The factory protector shield does not protect the complete canister and a rock flipped up by the driver's side wheel can fly right into the canister and puncture it. Here is the thread on my situation along with some pictures. 2009 RAV4 Evaporative canister
 
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