Everything Is Screwed Up! Help!

1455 Views 10 Replies 8 Participants Last post by fgamio, 2 mo ago

gRAVelyDisappointed

Discussion Starter · 4 mo ago

Hey all! I have a 2021 Rav4 Hybrid XSE with 19,000 miles on the odometer.

Yesterday I tried to install some Chinese version of the raptor lights for my grill. After I finished, I started her up to see if they worked (they did), but all kinds of warnings appeared on my dash. Hybrid System Malfunction, Check Engine Visit Dealer, AWD System Malfunction, PKSB Malfunction.

I accidentally made a few sparks when testing fuses with ohmmeter (due to limited arm and hand function). I then checked and replaced a few fuses under the hood. I know there was a 20 and 30 fuse blown but can't remember which ones. I cleared the codes with a code reader, but the Check Engine light stayed on. I let it sit for a while and took her for a drive. By the time I went around the block, all of the warnings were back on and it was dinging like crazy. Hardly had any power.

Before the test drive. I unhooked my lights and removed them. (Stupid cheap knockoff crap 😡).
I watched a YouTube video for the install, and used one of the 7.5 fuses under the hood and put it with one of the adapters that holds 2 fuses, just like the genius on the video.

I don't know what to do! Someone please help! I am supposed to get a wheelchair lift installed this week, and commute 70 miles every day for work. I need my baby back and running. PLEASE help! Thank you so much!!!

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Dontmind

· #2 · 3 mo ago

Sorry to hear about your misfortune.
Having worked as an IT support for some years, personally, I believe it could be difficult for anyone to remotely diagnose an electrical problem with 100% certainty.
It may be best for you to take your car to a Toyota dealer. It will cost you dearly, but you know it will be repaired by Toyota certified electrical tech.

Not to add-in salt to injury, your misfortune is a perfect case why I have been warning others the risks of those DIY projects on modern vehicles.
A story of patience..... 2023 Prime XSE w/PP @ MSRP (Austin, TX) | Page 3 | Toyota RAV4 Forums (rav4world.com)

". . . understand that DIY is very much an America tradition, but often when vehicle starts to develop issue after the DIY mod, the owners often claimed or blamed defect on vehicle.

Vehicles nowadays are not your '80 Oldsmobile. Systems like, Electrical / sensors / logic controls, etc., on the modern vehicles are often interconnected. Unless you are a factory certified electrical tech., personally would hope that DIY mod is not based on YouTube videos or internet tips."

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Onelilcrzyazn

· #3 · 3 mo ago

I don't think it's the DIY thing but more of a going cheap thing. Why go cheap to save a few bucks when you spent 35k on a car. That $10 you saved now is going to cost 10x more. You can go cheap on some thing but quality on others.

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Big Daddy

· #4 · 3 mo ago

I can understand doing your own maintenance on a vehicle, but when you start to add items like additional lights etc, splicing into the vehicle electrical system, can only be asking for trouble.

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trainwithhenry

· #5 · 3 mo ago

Speedometer Trip computer Odometer Tachometer Gauge

Does it look like this?This started to happen to me too on and off. Happened to me randomly one morning. Usually you hear a slight sound ‘sounds like a money counter’ then it stops and the lights go on.

Will go away randomly or if i pull the neg off the battery.

🤷🏻‍♂️

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hollywoodhusky

· #6 · 3 mo ago

gRAVelyDisappointed said:
Hey all! I have a 2021 Rav4 Hybrid XSE with 19,000 miles on the odometer.

Yesterday I tried to install some Chinese version of the raptor lights for my grill. After I finished, I started her up to see if they worked (they did), but all kinds of warnings appeared on my dash. Hybrid System Malfunction, Check Engine Visit Dealer, AWD System Malfunction, PKSB Malfunction.

I accidentally made a few sparks when testing fuses with ohmmeter (due to limited arm and hand function). I then checked and replaced a few fuses under the hood. I know there was a 20 and 30 fuse blown but can't remember which ones. I cleared the codes with a code reader, but the Check Engine light stayed on. I let it sit for a while and took her for a drive. By the time I went around the block, all of the warnings were back on and it was dinging like crazy. Hardly had any power.

Before the test drive. I unhooked my lights and removed them. (Stupid cheap knockoff crap 😡).
I watched a YouTube video for the install, and used one of the 7.5 fuses under the hood and put it with one of the adapters that holds 2 fuses, just like the genius on the video.

I don't know what to do! Someone please help! I am supposed to get a wheelchair lift installed this week, and commute 70 miles every day for work. I need my baby back and running. PLEASE help! Thank you so much!!!

Hey man, the same thing just happened to me unfortunately. And I'm kicking myself right now. Did you ever figure out how to resolve it?

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Tazio Nuvolari

· #7 · 3 mo ago

gRAVelyDisappointed said:
Yesterday I tried to install some Chinese version of the raptor lights for my grill.

hollywoodhusky said:
Hey man, the same thing just happened to me unfortunately.

Did you connect the ground wire for the raptor lights to one of the nuts on the strut tower top cap mount? There is a possibility this may damage the ECM computer.

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hollywoodhusky

· #8 · 3 mo ago

Tazio Nuvolari said:
Did you connect the ground wire for the raptor lights to one of the nuts on the strut tower top cap mount? There is a possibility this may damage the ECM computer.

Ah, I might have made a mistake with that... I just wrapped the ground wire around a nearby bolt. I'll upload a photo of it tomorrow here to show you where I wrapped it. Thank you for the reply though, really appreciate it!

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hollywoodhusky

· #9 · 3 mo ago

Tazio Nuvolari said:
Did you connect the ground wire for the raptor lights to one of the nuts on the strut tower top cap mount? There is a possibility this may damage the ECM computer.

This is the bolt that I had wrapped the black "ground" wire around:

Musical instrument accessory Audio equipment Gadget Electronic device Technology

And here are some images of the red "add-a-fuse" configuration that I was using:

Electronic engineering Electrical wiring Engineering Gadget Audio equipment

The 10amp red one came with the kit and the little orange 7.5amp was the one originally in the USB2 slot. Recognizing now that they are two different kinds of fuses so maybe that's an issue?

Hand Circuit component Finger Thumb Nail

Hand Circuit component Finger Gadget Thumb

How I had it set up when the lights were working and then everything started failing (the black wire was obviously fully wrapped around that bolt). Add-A-Fuse slotted in the 7.5amp USB2 slot.

Electrical wiring Musical instrument accessory Gadget Audio equipment Electronic engineering

Thank you!

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Tazio Nuvolari

· #10 · 3 mo ago

Now I'm not sure about this because I only have a very vague memory about an earlier post. I think you connected the ground wire to the bolt on the strut tower that does cause damage to the engine computer (ECM) as you show in your photos. See the black brace bolted in with that particular bolt is the mount for a grey box which I think may be the ECM--but I am not sure about any of this.

Hood Automotive tire Bicycle tire Electrical wiring Bumper

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fgamio

· #11 · 2 mo ago

hollywoodhusky said:
And here are some images of the red "add-a-fuse" configuration that I was using:

Ground is OK.

Check your fuse connection, you have to do it right.
One side of the fuse box connector has always tension (12V and comes from battery), the other side is the circuit side protected by the fuse (is the same with your connector, and you have to align this sides).
Identify this side on the fuse box, and then you have to connect the left pin of this connector to that side (the left pin has to have 12 V from the battery, your lights cable has to be on de side with no voltage). You can check it very simply, if you take off the fuse, your lights can't remain on.
If you do it wrong, your lights will have 12V directly from battery/alternator.
Check twice, then reconnect the lights.
Then check for blown fuses, you have more than one fuse box. Probably is a blown fuse.... but first check your connectios.

Good Luck

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