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dnyc77 said:
It might be this one. I think in the future I might wire it to the side marker lights.
I ordered this remote..

Correction !!
I does work !!
As well as this one...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00REPXGSM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5CsVFbNZRJGZA

i ordered the Factor4 lights with Wiring harness ( NO REMOTE)
I "assumed" the controller was pre-wired in the shrink wrapping of the harness... It's not.
He adds the controller and give you the remote for $30.

If you add your own controller, the remote will then operate the lights....



:)
 

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I ordered this remote..

Correction !!
I does work !!
As well as this one...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00REPXGSM/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_5CsVFbNZRJGZA

i ordered the Factor4 lights with Wiring harness ( NO REMOTE)
I "assumed" the controller was pre-wired in the shrink wrapping of the harness... It's not.
He adds the controller and give you the remote for $30.

If you add your own controller, the remote will then operate the lights....



:)
wow $4.00 for the remote!
 

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2020 RAV4 Hybrid XSE, Weather, JBL, Tech Package
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All right, I installed mine and tapped into the driver’s sidemarker light. Works like a charm, and now they turn on and off with the DRLs instead of the ignition. I purchased the version with the remote (which I kind of regret now), so I had to cut off the provided fuse tap.

EDIT: apparently the sidemarkers come on when you manually turn on the DRLs (which I tested) but not when set to Auto and it's light outside (which I did not test). So during the day with lights on Auto (and they always are for me), just the DRLs come on, not the sidemarkers (or my new lights). Basically, they just come on with my headlights now. Bummer. I guess I'll have to either go back to the USB2 fuse tap or try to access the actual DRL wire if possible (which is much higher risk than messing up a sidemarker).

I’ll try to give a write up in case anyone is interested in doing this as well, but I forgot to take pictures during the process, so I’ll do what I can. Let me know if something doesn’t make sense.

I followed the driver’s sidemarker wires further down into the engine compartment to get it more out of the way (near where the headlights and turn signal get bundled together with it). I removed several inches of the factory wire loom there and installed a 22-18 AWG wire tap on the positive (pink/purple) wire. (I replaced some of the loom after.) I’ve marked the Favtor4 wires (also wrapped in split wire loom) in red and the sidemarker in green here:
159779


The 22-18AWG wire tap I used didn’t bite deep enough into the factory wire at first so the connection was spotty. So I carefully made 2 cuts into each side of the insulation with a sharp knife and reinstalled the tap directly on top of those and reinforced it with plenty of electrical tape. Perfect connection now. I also used that T-style connector, so I had to crimp on a terminal to the Factor4 positive wire.
I didn’t bother tapping/weakening the negative (yellow/black) sidemarker wire and instead attached the provided negative terminal to the bolt circled in green in the picture, with the tap circled in red (sorry for the crappy picture):
159778


The rest is pretty much the standard installation. I used a few of these adhesive zip tie mounts to bind up the slack and keep the wires out of the way. They’re circled here; most are on the underside of parts to hide them.
159780


159781
 

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Ya it's a great install but hopefully you don't have any issues or recalls with the DRLs or headlights.
 

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I installed some "Raptor" lights today, although I didn't buy this kit.
160457



In wiring them I found a way into the Lt. fuse/relay box without cutting any holes that I thought you might find interesting. The bundle that contains the main power feeds for the box has enough space in it to snake a small gauge wire through. I used a long tie-wrap with the locking end cut off and gently worked it down from the top. Once I was able to get ahold of it on the bottom I taped my wires to it and gently pulled it through. It does take some patience and you might have to wiggle the bundle a bit, but it is possible.

160458


You can see my new wire(black with red tracer in this photo and which bundle I'm talking about.
 
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Nice! I installed my Factor4 lights yesterday I just notched the back of the box lid and installed a grommet. I also installed sequential smoke turn signals and illuminated window switches with handle bowl lights. I really like the bowl lights easy install and look great with my XSE interior accent lighting same color.
 

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Update I had an issue with the Factor4 lights install. After the install my armrest USB ports stopped working. I emailed Factor4 and they responded with in a hour or two. After emailing pics of my install they said I needed to reinstall the original fuse in to the new harness/fuse tap. It worked and now the USB are working fine. I was very impressed with they quick response. Over all the quality and ease of install was great.
 

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Discussion Starter #108
Nice! I installed my Factor4 lights yesterday I just notched the back of the box lid and installed a grommet. I also installed sequential smoke turn signals and illuminated window switches with handle bowl lights. I really like the bowl lights easy install and look great with my XSE interior accent lighting same color.
That's exciting! Could you show me what your grommet looks like? Also I'm glad they were able to help you resolve the usb issues so quickly!
 

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The Adventure and TRD's don't have that plastic piece between the grill and hood, so I doubt that Factor4 will be doing them for those models .
 

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The Adventure and TRD's don't have that plastic piece between the grill and hood, so I doubt that Factor4 will be doing them for those models .
My buddy who has an Adventure emailed them and they said they were developing a kit for those grills. Not sure what it would look like tho?
 

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All right, I installed mine and tapped into the driver’s sidemarker light. Works like a charm, and now they turn on and off with the DRLs instead of the ignition. I purchased the version with the remote (which I kind of regret now), so I had to cut off the provided fuse tap.

EDIT: apparently the sidemarkers come on when you manually turn on the DRLs (which I tested) but not when set to Auto and it's light outside (which I did not test). So during the day with lights on Auto (and they always are for me), just the DRLs come on, not the sidemarkers (or my new lights). Basically, they just come on with my headlights now. Bummer. I guess I'll have to either go back to the USB2 fuse tap or try to access the actual DRL wire if possible (which is much higher risk than messing up a sidemarker).

I’ll try to give a write up in case anyone is interested in doing this as well, but I forgot to take pictures during the process, so I’ll do what I can. Let me know if something doesn’t make sense.

I followed the driver’s sidemarker wires further down into the engine compartment to get it more out of the way (near where the headlights and turn signal get bundled together with it). I removed several inches of the factory wire loom there and installed a 22-18 AWG wire tap on the positive (pink/purple) wire. (I replaced some of the loom after.) I’ve marked the Favtor4 wires (also wrapped in split wire loom) in red and the sidemarker in green here:
View attachment 159779

The 22-18AWG wire tap I used didn’t bite deep enough into the factory wire at first so the connection was spotty. So I carefully made 2 cuts into each side of the insulation with a sharp knife and reinstalled the tap directly on top of those and reinforced it with plenty of electrical tape. Perfect connection now. I also used that T-style connector, so I had to crimp on a terminal to the Factor4 positive wire.
I didn’t bother tapping/weakening the negative (yellow/black) sidemarker wire and instead attached the provided negative terminal to the bolt circled in green in the picture, with the tap circled in red (sorry for the crappy picture):
View attachment 159778

The rest is pretty much the standard installation. I used a few of these adhesive zip tie mounts to bind up the slack and keep the wires out of the way. They’re circled here; most are on the underside of parts to hide them.
View attachment 159780

View attachment 159781
Following up on my previous post. I don’t really expect anyone to do this, but I’m posting for posterity because it took me a hot minute to figure this out. In the image below, the yellow arrow shows the big headlight plug and the blue arrow points to the smaller DRL plug (driver’s side behind the headlight). I took the split tube off the DRL line to expose the wires. The wire the green arrow points at powers the DRL when the headlights are on OR the DRLs only setting is on. The wire the red arrow points at powers the DRL when the AUTO headlight setting is on and it’s light enough for just the DRLs to be on (this eluded me the first time due to a poor connection when testing the line). Why these had to be 2 different signals is beyond me.
160725


I want my new lights to always come on with the DRLs, so I need them to have power when either line is high. So, I made a logical OR circuit (without backfeeding voltage down one of the lines) simply by soldering in a diode after tapping both wires, and then I connected both to the Factor4 lights’ positive wire. Now it’s less pretty and looks like this:
160726


But it works! All of this basically to maintain my ability to turn them off with the headlight stalk, which is the only advantage over the USB fuse tap method (so I guess not applicable in Canada, where I don’t think the DRLs are ever off).

This was definitely more about tinkering than desire of functionality. 3/5 stars, wouldn't recommend.
 

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Sort of silly question :)
Do you notice any improvement lighting up the road? I imagine it will help somewhat.
 

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My wife likes her Rav4 to "Breathe"
mode
It's just a cool factor...
No lighting improvement at all......

Coolness factor = 100%


Seeing the Rav4 "breathe" is worth $100 !!!!!
:p:p:p:p:p:p
 
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