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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
After desiring to put on BFG All Terrains for the past year and spending countless hours running my mouth here I decided to buy them ... Had them mounted.. BUT the dealer is telling me that the rear wheels can't be aligned... :confused::confused::confused:

See note in the picture. I don't get it. The parts that align are STUCK! WTF ??
I have ZERO rust on my RAV4 so it can't be that.

Now I am concerned with messing up my new expensive tires also.

Update: I got a note from them with part numbers and labor.. around 700 dollars.. WTF?
Researching further.
 

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WHAAAAAT?:roll: OK: the camber alignment of the rear end is accomplished with an eccentric cam that moves the support bolt that moves the LOWER support arm of the back end. Sometimes the bolt that is moved to get the car aligned gets rusted or seized into place as that is a part of the car subject to all road salt/water/etc. We had the same issue on Zepheretta (2005) and I haven't gotten under there to free up the bolts. It was suggested somewhere in the Forum to get under and spray Knockerloose or some other penetrating oil onto the area of the bolt and retaining nut (front end cam) (spray in front and rear) several times before taking it to have it aligned. They probably were afraid to put too much torque on those bolts to loosen them up and breaking them, then having to figure out how to get the still-seized threads out of the receiving nut. However, it is a loose NUT and you just replace those parts or just the bolt, slathering them with anti-seize to keep them free for the next go-around. If you replaced all that on each side it would be probably $50 at the Toyota dealer and you could do it yourself. Not $6-700. Unless it is something else that is messed up.:confused:

Crawl under your car and look at the LOWER INNER end of the control rod and you'll see that cute little oval "washer" with little tick marks on it, usually on the bottom, and a small hole for adjusting. That is what is moved one way or another to take care of the camber of the wheel.

OK: just found your part list: that is for a rubber suspension part that goes at the front of your suspension arm. The bolt that holds it to your frame is similar to the one described above but adjusts the toe in/toe out and, if that is frozen, same thing with the penetrating oil. If the BOLT is broken removing it, you do NOT have to replace the rubber part unless it is trashed. If the rubber part was "frozen" your back suspension would not move up and down. I guess they figure if they are replacing the bolt/cams they should just replace the rubber while they are in there.....Huh.... Again crawl under your car and you'll see all this...
 

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Oh, yeah: cool looking tires, by the way. You may want to consider taking The Old Girl to a place that JUST does alignments. Discount Tire refers all their alignment issues out. Smart.....
 

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BTW: my parts place lists those rubber parts at $68.96 list and $55 at their discount......
 

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I had the same problem myself, but probably much worse. If everyting is seized, it'll cost much more than you've been quoted.
If the bolts and adjusters are seized, you'll need all new ones and bushes as all will be destroyed getting it apart.

Do spray everything with WD40, Plusgas, or whatever you have over there. Leave a while and do it again. Just hope it helps.

You can save some money by getting Energy Suspension bushes, as if the bushes in the lower transverse arms are destroyed, Toyota don't sell the bushes, so want you to buy new arms at $200 - $300 each!

The BFGs are LTs, so very stiff. Maybe try reducing the pressures by a few lbs, on the year at least. I know, I put them on my 2 door, I should've gone for Yokohama Geolanders.
 

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This is becoming more and more common on cars from the 90's...


Find a better mechanic! Despite a popular believe (and higher rate), dealer mechanics are generally WORSE than regular mechanics! That is where most kids out of tech school get jobs until they pickup decent experience, then they move on to independent shops, or if they are good enough, they open their own shop. The flat rate that they paid by, encourages them to cut corners and half ass much of their work...


Plus they are used to working new/newer cars, so they wouldn't be as accustomed working on 20 year old cars...


I know that I am generalizing (there are good and bad mechanics EVERYWHERE), but it is sad to see people pay more to get less. There is no reason to go to the dealer unless it is warranty or recall work!
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
UPDATE !!!!


I love the small humming sound from the BFG tires.. I love the "a little stiffer" ride !!
They also make the RAV4 look AWESOME !!!
No more wimpy tread tires for paved roads only. :)

I can exactly understand why people don't like them tires and also why RAV4 is more like a "car" now because people like my wife want comfort and quietness when driving. That is why she refuses to sit in my RAV4 and the FJ. She wants to travel in her quiet and smooth Camry or the Sequoia.
I have planned a trip to the Canadian NorthWest Territories and she will only go if I take the Sequoia. I only want to go in the RAV4.

Ok. I went to three different shops. None of them could do it.
Used WD40 yesterday also.

It has come to it now that I do have to change some parts. I have ordered OEM parts from California (way cheaper than your local dealer especially if you are NOT on the WEST coast!)

180 some dollars. I am ok with it.
I have somebody charging me about 150 dollars to put new parts in.
The following has been ordered....
 

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Perfect! That is what you needed to do and the parts you needed! WD-40 may not work as well as some other penetrating oils. Go to you NAPA or other place and look to see what they have or recommend. Your new-found mechanic will thank you!:thumbs_up:
 

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WD-40 is one of the worse penetrating oils out there but it is sold everywhere!
I use PB-Blaster but even then it needs hours to seep in.

I heard that a 50/50% mixture of Acetone and ATF works even better
 

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Perfect! That is what you needed to do and the parts you needed! WD-40 may not work as well as some other penetrating oils. Go to you NAPA or other place and look to see what they have or recommend. Your new-found mechanic will thank you!:thumbs_up:
 

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I guess I really meant that....as it somehow came through twice.....:shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #12

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Perfect! That is what you needed to do and the parts you needed! WD-40 may not work as well as some other penetrating oils. Go to you NAPA or other place and look to see what they have or recommend. Your new-found mechanic will thank you!:thumbs_up:


WD-40 is a pretty good cleaner. It shouldn't be used as a lubricant. Instead use PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench.
 

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Heh Heh....They ( Loose-nut, 3in1, WD40, etc.) are all basically Naphthalene or otherwise known as "Lighter Fluid"....

In a pinch I mix 90% gasoline with 10% 2stroke 50:1 motor oil and it works just as good. 50+ years of expertise has taught Me that Nothing beats an oxy-acetylene torch to loosen those stubborn nuts/bolts.

IMHO The Rav4 4.1 is the crown jewel of Toyota Engineering.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
....

IMHO The Rav4 4.1 is the crown jewel of Toyota Engineering.
I think the vehicle needs more credit than given for sure!
May be in another 10 years?

I am amazed by its off road capabilities especially with off road tires and the Central Differential Lock !
 

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Oh, I am in LOVE with my CUTE 4.1 2/3 door! She is so fun to drive and looks like NOTHING else out there! She turns heads, she is so unusually CUTE! My girlfriend thinks her 2005 4.2 is a great looking car as well, before The Big Change to attempt to look like every other small SUV out there, and she is right! They are special cars....which is why we drive them!:kiss
 

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Oh, yeah: Great suggestion, ScepticOne: I need to mix some of that up and try it. But you're right: there is NO substitute for BTU's applied to the offending nut!>:D
 
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