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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

As you can see in the pic below, access to my rear jacking point is blocked somewhat by the hitch I have installed. I was able to get my floor jack in there, and it seemed like a solid bite, but since my floor jack's max height is 14.75", it was not enough to get the rear wheels off the ground.

Short of buying a new floor jack, what are my options?

I'm thinking about using a solid chunk of 4x4, but am not sure it would give me enough lift. How high do I need to lift at that point to get the wheels off the ground?

Once the car was in the air, I'd use jack stands (read a ton of posts here about that, too).

Thanks, kj

 

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I used the hitch instead as a jack point but it was a bit short still. So I used 3 pieces of 2x4 nailed together on top of the floor jack to get the height. I think I cut it 9 inches wide but any how it works perfectly which will enable your hydraulic jack to reach higher. Since my 3 ton floor jack can reach 18 1/4 inches you may need to add 1 more piece of wood to get the right height on yours.

By the way if anyone is wondering the hitch is strong enough to handle the weight. Just ensure you place the jack under the center where the 3 sections joins and is welded. This spreads the load where it is strongest with the hitch drawer tube and hitch frame.
 

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You can place the jack under the rear pumpkin to lift up the rear then use jack stands to support the weight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, all. Not comfortable using the rear differential as that is not OK per the factory for the 4.3 (it was for the 4.2). As for using the hitch, I read several posts here, and also do not feel comfortable using it as a lift point, even though it is a Class III. If it were the Toyota OEM hitch, I might be convinced, but mine only uses two bolts on each side, far fewer than the OEM hitch. It "might" be just fine, but I'm not about to take a chance.

If I used the lower control arms, would I be able to get the RAV high enough to put stands under (at the rear pinch welds), so that when the suspension decompresses, the wheel would still be able to be removed?

The more I think about it, the more I tend to think the answer is a different floor jack with a higher lift, but I don't need one that often. Maybe I can borrow one from a friend, hmmmmm...

-kj-
 

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I've always used the jack points on the side of the vehicle. Your oem jack should work just fine if you're needing to get a wheel off now. If not just go purchase another jack that fits your needs. If you're curious about how high the new jack needs to lift then jack the vehicle up using the oem jack as a reference. For me even if I only use a tool a few times it's worth it just to know I have it if needed and floor jacks are worth their weight for sure.
Good luck!
 

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I have no qualms about using the hitch as a jacking point. It can certainly handle the weight and transfers it evenly under the subframe. Compare that to the relatively wimpy little welded-on plates that serve as the "official" jack points. No comparison. As for the four-bolt mount, it would probably work just as well for jacking with the rear two removed. Neither have I ever have been impressed with all the extra little plates and puny bolts the OEM hitch uses.

I use a large piece of pine or 4X4 on top of my floor jack when more height is needed. I do remove the swivel cupped top piece from the jack to give a smooth flat lifting surface.

And I'd never lift from the differential on ANY vehicle w/o a solid axle. Do it all the time on my trucks but not the RAV4.
 

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I've always used the jack points on the side of the vehicle. Your oem jack should work just fine if you're needing to get a wheel off now. If not just go purchase another jack that fits your needs. If you're curious about how high the new jack needs to lift then jack the vehicle up using the oem jack as a reference. For me even if I only use a tool a few times it's worth it just to know I have it if needed and floor jacks are worth their weight for sure.
Good luck!
The OP is not using the factory scissor jack and wants to extend the height of his floor jack. Some people have floor jacks but the rear center jack point is a challenge even though Toyota has a rear center jack point which is very high up. Since my floor jack reaches 18 1/4 inches you would need a floor jack that reaches close to 23 inches to lift a hitch. If you use the rear jack point the OP is using then you need several more inches on top of that. This is assuming you need to get the car up high enough to put jack stands under the pinch welds.
 

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I have no qualms about using the hitch as a jacking point. It can certainly handle the weight and transfers it evenly under the subframe. Compare that to the relatively wimpy little welded-on plates that serve as the "official" jack points. No comparison. As for the four-bolt mount, it would probably work just as well for jacking with the rear two removed. Neither have I ever have been impressed with all the extra little plates and puny bolts the OEM hitch uses.

I use a large piece of pine or 4X4 on top of my floor jack when more height is needed. I do remove the swivel cupped top piece from the jack to give a smooth flat lifting surface.

And I'd never lift from the differential on ANY vehicle w/o a solid axle. Do it all the time on my trucks but not the RAV4.
Agree totally with Dr Dyno that the hitch is a much better center jack point. The hitch metal is many times thicker than the factory rear jack point not to mention it is also lower and has a larger surface to lift from.

I too would be hesitant to use the rear differential as a lift point since that area does not look too strong.
 

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I've never measured the lift height of my pretty standard floor jack. I just grab whatever blocking is needed to safely get the height I need. I probably have put boards under the jack too on occasion.
Then once the vehicle is up on the jack & stands I see if I can push it off as a safety double-check.
 

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I too would be hesitant to use the rear differential as a lift point since that area does not look too strong.
And if you do bend or break something there it's GONNA be expensive.
 

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The more I think about it, the more I tend to think the answer is a different floor jack with a higher lift, but I don't need one that often.


I've got a Hydraulic Jack, little enough to keep in the back of the Rav storage area, where the part of that Jack that goes under the vehicle unscrews to give another 6 or 8" lift. not expensive.
That post is probably 1-1/2" diameter so I would use something like a 2 x 4 piece on top of it.
I haven't used it in years though.
Ott.
 

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If you have a standard jack with a 1 3/16th diameter stem on the saddle you can buy extensions in various heights. Barring that you could get one made up to the exact length you need at a welding shop.
 

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The OP is not using the factory scissor jack and wants to extend the height of his floor jack. Some people have floor jacks but the rear center jack point is a challenge even though Toyota has a rear center jack point which is very high up. Since my floor jack reaches 18 1/4 inches you would need a floor jack that reaches close to 23 inches to lift a hitch. If you use the rear jack point the OP is using then you need several more inches on top of that. This is assuming you need to get the car up high enough to put jack stands under the pinch welds.
Just giving the OP other options, but thanks for letting him know the exact reach he'd need.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey everyone, thanks.

Bouncing around teh intrawebz I found Best Floor Jack, Trolley Jack, Motorcycle Jack and Jack Stand Guide - Floor Jack Advisor which has some models I hadn't considered, and that may be great for some folks here, but, for -my- needs (relatively infrequent, my tires are rotated free by the shop that sold them to me) they are a bit too expensive. Several have the right amount of lift, though.

Anyway, I won't need a jack that often, and I came across this for $64 + tax:

Husky 3 Ton SUV Trolley Floor Jack-T83006 - The Home Depot

Reviews aren't great but they aren't terrible either. Might end up going this route.

Still uneasy about using the hitch to raise the car. Read several threads here and I tend to agree with the replies about forces the hitch is designed to encounter and how jacking isn't one of them. Certainly possible it would be just fine but I'm not super comfortable going that route...

Thanks again...
 

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Anyway, I won't need a jack that often, and I came across this for $64 + tax:

Husky 3 Ton SUV Trolley Floor Jack-T83006 - The Home Depot

Reviews aren't great but they aren't terrible either. Might end up going this route.

I have that same jack and it's been pretty reliable, love the extension. On my 4Runner the rear pumpkin is also not one of the "official" jack positions but i've used it to lift up the vehicle many times temporarily to then have it supported by two 3Ton jack stands on each side with no issues. I can understand your reluctance though. I've asked many mechanics and DYI people and most agree that its not a big deal as its drsigned to support the weight of the vehicle. Aside from a few scratches to the external casing if you're not careful, I dont see how you could damage it. Good Luck with your purchase!


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I used the rear lift point and it wound get the car up all the way to even get the tires off. I wanna try the side life point but there the welds pint there. Is there anything i can use that i wont destroy the weld points


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