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Floor Jack Question / Rear Jack Point Access Issue

17K views 23 replies 12 participants last post by  Hoop4 
#1 ·
Hi all,

As you can see in the pic below, access to my rear jacking point is blocked somewhat by the hitch I have installed. I was able to get my floor jack in there, and it seemed like a solid bite, but since my floor jack's max height is 14.75", it was not enough to get the rear wheels off the ground.

Short of buying a new floor jack, what are my options?

I'm thinking about using a solid chunk of 4x4, but am not sure it would give me enough lift. How high do I need to lift at that point to get the wheels off the ground?

Once the car was in the air, I'd use jack stands (read a ton of posts here about that, too).

Thanks, kj

 
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#2 ·
I used the hitch instead as a jack point but it was a bit short still. So I used 3 pieces of 2x4 nailed together on top of the floor jack to get the height. I think I cut it 9 inches wide but any how it works perfectly which will enable your hydraulic jack to reach higher. Since my 3 ton floor jack can reach 18 1/4 inches you may need to add 1 more piece of wood to get the right height on yours.

By the way if anyone is wondering the hitch is strong enough to handle the weight. Just ensure you place the jack under the center where the 3 sections joins and is welded. This spreads the load where it is strongest with the hitch drawer tube and hitch frame.
 
#4 ·
Thanks, all. Not comfortable using the rear differential as that is not OK per the factory for the 4.3 (it was for the 4.2). As for using the hitch, I read several posts here, and also do not feel comfortable using it as a lift point, even though it is a Class III. If it were the Toyota OEM hitch, I might be convinced, but mine only uses two bolts on each side, far fewer than the OEM hitch. It "might" be just fine, but I'm not about to take a chance.

If I used the lower control arms, would I be able to get the RAV high enough to put stands under (at the rear pinch welds), so that when the suspension decompresses, the wheel would still be able to be removed?

The more I think about it, the more I tend to think the answer is a different floor jack with a higher lift, but I don't need one that often. Maybe I can borrow one from a friend, hmmmmm...

-kj-
 
#5 ·
I've always used the jack points on the side of the vehicle. Your oem jack should work just fine if you're needing to get a wheel off now. If not just go purchase another jack that fits your needs. If you're curious about how high the new jack needs to lift then jack the vehicle up using the oem jack as a reference. For me even if I only use a tool a few times it's worth it just to know I have it if needed and floor jacks are worth their weight for sure.
Good luck!
 
#7 ·
The OP is not using the factory scissor jack and wants to extend the height of his floor jack. Some people have floor jacks but the rear center jack point is a challenge even though Toyota has a rear center jack point which is very high up. Since my floor jack reaches 18 1/4 inches you would need a floor jack that reaches close to 23 inches to lift a hitch. If you use the rear jack point the OP is using then you need several more inches on top of that. This is assuming you need to get the car up high enough to put jack stands under the pinch welds.
 
#6 ·
I have no qualms about using the hitch as a jacking point. It can certainly handle the weight and transfers it evenly under the subframe. Compare that to the relatively wimpy little welded-on plates that serve as the "official" jack points. No comparison. As for the four-bolt mount, it would probably work just as well for jacking with the rear two removed. Neither have I ever have been impressed with all the extra little plates and puny bolts the OEM hitch uses.

I use a large piece of pine or 4X4 on top of my floor jack when more height is needed. I do remove the swivel cupped top piece from the jack to give a smooth flat lifting surface.

And I'd never lift from the differential on ANY vehicle w/o a solid axle. Do it all the time on my trucks but not the RAV4.
 
#8 ·
Agree totally with Dr Dyno that the hitch is a much better center jack point. The hitch metal is many times thicker than the factory rear jack point not to mention it is also lower and has a larger surface to lift from.

I too would be hesitant to use the rear differential as a lift point since that area does not look too strong.
 
#9 ·
I've never measured the lift height of my pretty standard floor jack. I just grab whatever blocking is needed to safely get the height I need. I probably have put boards under the jack too on occasion.
Then once the vehicle is up on the jack & stands I see if I can push it off as a safety double-check.
 
#11 ·
The more I think about it, the more I tend to think the answer is a different floor jack with a higher lift, but I don't need one that often.


I've got a Hydraulic Jack, little enough to keep in the back of the Rav storage area, where the part of that Jack that goes under the vehicle unscrews to give another 6 or 8" lift. not expensive.
That post is probably 1-1/2" diameter so I would use something like a 2 x 4 piece on top of it.
I haven't used it in years though.
Ott.
 
#15 ·
Hey everyone, thanks.

Bouncing around teh intrawebz I found Best Floor Jack, Trolley Jack, Motorcycle Jack and Jack Stand Guide - Floor Jack Advisor which has some models I hadn't considered, and that may be great for some folks here, but, for -my- needs (relatively infrequent, my tires are rotated free by the shop that sold them to me) they are a bit too expensive. Several have the right amount of lift, though.

Anyway, I won't need a jack that often, and I came across this for $64 + tax:

Husky 3 Ton SUV Trolley Floor Jack-T83006 - The Home Depot

Reviews aren't great but they aren't terrible either. Might end up going this route.

Still uneasy about using the hitch to raise the car. Read several threads here and I tend to agree with the replies about forces the hitch is designed to encounter and how jacking isn't one of them. Certainly possible it would be just fine but I'm not super comfortable going that route...

Thanks again...
 
#16 ·
Anyway, I won't need a jack that often, and I came across this for $64 + tax:

Husky 3 Ton SUV Trolley Floor Jack-T83006 - The Home Depot

Reviews aren't great but they aren't terrible either. Might end up going this route.

I have that same jack and it's been pretty reliable, love the extension. On my 4Runner the rear pumpkin is also not one of the "official" jack positions but i've used it to lift up the vehicle many times temporarily to then have it supported by two 3Ton jack stands on each side with no issues. I can understand your reluctance though. I've asked many mechanics and DYI people and most agree that its not a big deal as its drsigned to support the weight of the vehicle. Aside from a few scratches to the external casing if you're not careful, I dont see how you could damage it. Good Luck with your purchase!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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#22 ·
The reason I did not get the puck thing is that if you raise the car with that, where do you put the jack stand?

I raise mine using the rear and front lift points then place the stands with the covers under the pinch welds.
 
#24 ·
I was in the same shoes just a few days ago. I had the Harbor Freight Aluminum Low Pro Floor jack which maxes out at an insufficient 14.125". I sold my jack and bought a jack which goes up to 18". Get the right jack. I recommend getting the highest jack you can afford. Some may call me a cheapo driving a hoopty so I wouldnt say spend unless it was an investment.

Even if you boost it up with wood here's 3 reasons to buy a better jack: 1.) Your jack saves you money on repairs so you can justify spending on it. Time and space; To work on your car the pine/puck need to live and travel and set up with the jack before working every time. 2.) It's a safety device; The less you boost you height artificially the safer you are against slips and tips from the booster. If your jack slips this could damage your vehicle or home to the tune of hundreds of dollars in a snap. 3.) It's a multi use tool; Your jack will be needed to lift up control arms, rotors, and oil pans as you work so youll need compact, stable, mobile height. Rotors are circles and arms are slanted; These factors may make it hard to use 4x4's to lift.

When you see the right jack as not only a tool investment but also an insurance against accidents you may be swayed.

If you need the low pro jack for another car then consider selling the wimp jack and getting a low pro that jacks up higher. The 3 ton low pro steel jack is only $99 right now and goes up to almost 19.75". Depending on condition you can get $30-60+ for your old jack and walk in to a new jack for $50 that suits all cars with more usability in repairs.
 
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