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I'll add to the instructions which will make it more complete for the average do your self-er.



1. The 30MM socket is a 12 Point. A regular 30MM will not work.
2. To remove the 30MM Hub Nut you'll need to undue the lock. If you don't have a chisel, just use the open end of a box wrench to pry it up so the nut will turn.

3. You'll need a 6 Allen in conjunction with a 17MM box wrench to remove the upper sway bar link bolt.
4. Don't tug too hard on the axle or you could separate the boot like I did, not a big deal, I just rebanded it, took some extra time, but you want to finish early. I used a 17mm open end of a box wrench and caught an edge on the inner cv joint housing and popped it out with a hammer. This could be by far the most frustrating step if that lock washer is stubborn. This was the longest step for me since I tried screw drivers and other objects before grabbing the 17mm box wrench.

5. I was replacing the transaxle seal and luckily I purchased a factory one, and a Napa one. The NAPA guy gave me the right seal, but regardless, when I was calling around to locate this seal, the guys always had a hard time discerning which one it was. I'm glad I had one of each. Beware, since it would be another trip to the store. Tapping this in required a strategy. I started on one side by angling it slightly in, then held that spot with my thumb and tapped the opposing side and worked my way around paying carefull attention to which side came back out so I could give it another gentle tap to keep it from falling out and the momentum inward. Before starting this process and tearing out the old seal, make note of how flush it is with the housing so you don't push it in too far, or vise versa.

6. If you jack up the one side high enough, you won't lose much tranny fluid, and won't lose any if your just swapping an axle.

7. Check your fluid as you will lose some if you pull out the gasket, since that holds back fluid when it is jacked up on a lower angle.


I don't believe you need to do a front end alignment folowing steps in this thread. Mine's not pulling. Can someone confirm?
 

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As long as you didn't remove the strut to knuckle bolts; also, if you had to take the outer tie rod end out of the knuckle, but did not remove it or disturb the locking nut, no alignment would be needed.
 
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