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Discussion Starter #1
I know it's inevitable especially in the northeast but it seems the pads are already not making good contact with the rotor that's only 3 months old with ~2400mi. My fear is by next fall the vehicle will already fail an inspection. The state of Vermont inspection stations are overly zealous about rust; even surface rust, on brake rotors. Once a station inspects and flags the issue you have no choice but to replace the brakes even if you go to another station as it's flagged in the system.

Does this look normal for mileage/age?

My buddy just had to replace his brakes again on his Volt; (<15K miles) and with regenerative braking it's hard to load the brakes enough to remove the rust. We just went through this on my wife's Jeep Cherokee with <2year old brakes with <20K miles. On my GMC Sierra the dealer now strongly urges brake caliper disassembly/cleaning/lubing annually which costs $250 and seems excessive especially when hardly driven.

VT Inspection Manaul: https://dmv.vermont.gov/sites/dmv/files/documents/VN-113-Periodic_Inspection_Manual.pdf
"If more than 1/2 inch of rust (cumulative per braking surface) exists on any contact surface of the rotor/drum."

Here is a pic after 140mi round trip with several 70-0mph rapid stops to the point ABS was kicking in. My rear rotors look great with near full contact of the rotor end-to-end.

I'm tempted to pull the wheels, scuff and paint black so they don't rust more where there's a lack of contact. Purchased my vehicle out of state; (only 1hr away), debating if I wait until 1st oil change which will be likely be April or should I try to get this in sooner?
 

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Maybe I'm missing something (that was not meant as an opening for a joke), but that looks like a very narrow contact area, especially on the middle picture.
Rotors, being cast iron are prone to rust, but the pads usually sweep their contact area.
 

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Maybe I'm missing something (that was not meant as an opening for a joke), but that looks like a very narrow contact area, especially on the middle picture.
Rotors, being cast iron are prone to rust, but the pads usually sweep their contact area.
I agree. Something definitely looks wrong with the brakes. I would pull them apart and take a look or have a trusty mechanic do it if you don’t do your own work. I suggest you have it done soon. This could affect your stopping distance. That’s an amazing amount of rust for just 3 months. My 15 year old Sienna is not that bad. I just replaced the brakes for the second time in 145k miles but then again I live in California with no snow or salt.
 

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Why don't you just get the rotors resurfaced. Looks good and solves your problem. Then again I would probably be irked about doing that service on a car with only 2400mi.
 

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Certainly does not look right in my eyes.

I would try taking the calipers off and then cleaning and lubing the slide pins, make sure you burp any air out of the rubber boots if they are present, and also clean and lube the ears of the brake pads. Try a few more stops after this to see if it cleans up - BTW, 250 bucks is a lot of money for what would be 2 hours if you take your time.

As above, the rotors could be resurfaced after this - not sure how much the cost differential is between that and a new set of rotors - just check first.
 

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Certainly does not look right in my eyes.

I would try taking the calipers off and then cleaning and lubing the slide pins, make sure you burp any air out of the rubber boots if they are present, and also clean and lube the ears of the brake pads. Try a few more stops after this to see if it cleans up - BTW, 250 bucks is a lot of money for what would be 2 hours if you take your time.

As above, the rotors could be resurfaced after this - not sure how much the cost differential is between that and a new set of rotors - just check first.

I think somebody's mechanic has his eye on a new boat when the weather warms up. 🚤
 

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I don’t do brake jobs but I have paid $225 to lube all calipers at my trusted local shop.
My hat is off to those who work on their brakes themselves. It must get easier if you do it enough. It just looks hard and complicated to me;

Note the video does not show brake pad replacement, but a good look at the components.
 

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I previously had a Ford plug-in hybrid and I ran into this same issue. I just started shifting the transmission to neutral and doing a few hot stops every couple of weeks. Shifting to neutral prevents the regenerative braking and forces the vehicle to use the hydraulic brakes which cleans up the contact patch nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hadn't tried the neutral trick, good to know it only uses brakes in neutral, good tip.

Vehicle is virtually new and just looking to avoid costly repairs down the line, seems vehicles with regenerative braking don't stress the brakes enough salt zones with economical driving habits.

Just wondering if I should take back to dealer as it seems way pre-mature to be having to lube caliper pins/pistons this early in the vehicles life. It's so very minor surface rust at this point that would come off with a scotch-brite pad at this point but you know how that goes 6-24 months from now. I'll probably just wait until my 1st service around 5K miles. Odd how my 2005 Mustang GT with over 40K miles have never had the brakes serviced and they look like new. Wonder if they were zinc or specially coated like some higher-end cars like Audi/BMW and odd that the hybrid/BEV vehicles don't get special rotors.

While I can perform these type repairs; (done frame-off restorations, full engine rebuilds) this is my new daily driver is gas and go; (charge in this case) and any service from oil change to brake service be done at a shop/toyota dealer.

Recent visits at garages with our other vehicles shop techs have mentioned instead of babying the brakes to stand on them hard and do some aggressive stops as they are seeing a lot of premature brake replacements due to vehicles sitting more due to COVID.
 

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The 2nd picture is not normal on a brand new vehicle.

I’d go to Toyota and see what they say.
 

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The 2nd picture is not normal on a brand new vehicle.

I’d go to Toyota and see what they say.
They will say, "Leave a blank check, and we'll see what we can do." Covered by warranty??? NOPE. Warranty says, "Normal wear and tear." This is NOT normal, so . . . . . guess what, NOT COVERED!!!!

Getcha comin and a-goin.
 

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Used to be a day when you backed up at 15mph and slammed on your brakes 2-3 times to get pebbles out of the contact area, but this is a different problem, braking in neutral sounds like the correct answer, or, in NH they plug into the obd2 port and either you pass or fail, register in NH:)
Surface rust isn't corrosion, yet technically they've got you by the short and curlies, if you had the tools to jack a wheel, remove the caliper and shine up the rotor with a power drill and a fine grit rubber backed sanding wheel, well, cheaper than handing it to that dealer to install new rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
They will say, "Leave a blank check, and we'll see what we can do." Covered by warranty??? NOPE. Warranty says, "Normal wear and tear." This is NOT normal, so . . . . . guess what, NOT COVERED!!!!

Getcha comin and a-goin.
Exactly my fear so likely will mention to dealer on 5K oil change but not bother with special trip and make sure they won't charge me to look at it. Will probably pull the wheels in the spring once salt season is over, lube the pins and scuff the rotors, perhaps paint the inner hub/rotor section, in the meantime gonna try some heavy braking in neutral and see if I can get it to improve. Did notice the right wheel looks better than the front left I took the pic of.
 
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