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Discussion Starter #1
so now my drivers side wheel bearing is going out, I suppose I shouldn't complain, 252K miles on the thing.
to make the job easier, plus avoid having the new bearing fail because of an out of round hub, I plan on replacing both, anybody done this? any tips or threads explaining what is done?
 

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The bearing is pressed in the knuckle, and locked with a circle-clip. Then the hub is pressed into the bearing. It's about a one hour job if you have tools and an hydraulic bench press. Buy the circle-clip at the same time you'll buy the bearing, you will probably need to destroy the old one with torch if it's jammed/rusted in the knuckle.
 

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Usually bearing assy is bearing itself, hub and a seal. Personally I would never try to depress bearing from the hub and try to reuse the hub again. Also, I would replace dust seal. Axel probably will give you hard time when you'll try to get it through, but you can use this tool - makes things a lot easier: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Capri-Tools-CP21064-Outer-Tie-Rod-Remover/43937734?wmlspartner=wlpa&adid=22222222228031783987&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60190089296&wl4=aud-310687321802:pla-107159393576&wl5=9003691&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=43937734&wl13=&veh=sem

It works great, I replaced many wheel bearings without a need of using hammer or any other excessive force. Clip it around the hub and work your way out. It will slowly but surely pull bearing assy off the axle. Hope this helps.

On the side note, I haven't done wheel bearing replacement on RAV4 yet and this might not be applicable to this particular model and year, but I doubt that it would be any dirlferent from FJ, 4Runner, Camry, etc, which I did before.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
thanks for the tips, I may have the tool suggested, my father passed away ten years ago and I inherited all his tools from 50 years of home ownership and car maintenance, there are two pullers, one looks awfully similar. I can't count the number of times his tools have saved me from buying, sometimes I didn't know what a tool was for until I needed it. lol




One thing I am wondering is if I am sure the bearing is even the problem. Shouldn’t there be a symptom other than noise? The noise goes away when turning to the right, but not left.


Car does not pull to either side, wheel does not appear to have excessive play, wheel does not seem to turn any different than in the past, does not make funny noise when hand rotated, the only symptom is a noise begins when hitting about 15-20 mph when starting out, after driving a fair amount, noise seems to decrease gradually under 50-60mph until it makes no noise under 5 mph. Above 60 or so the noise does not change, in fact after driving a bit, it sounds better going faster than 60 than under.


I first thought it was an alignment problem, but since it doesn’t show obvious wear, or pull to one side, I somewhat ruled that out. I then thought it might be the splash plate, or whatever you call the thin metal gizmo that I am pretty sure is supposed to help keep stuff off the brake rotor, I noticed mine was very rusty and flimsy when I replaced my brake pads. I thought maybe at speed air was causing to it to vibrate, because when car is turned to right the noise stops (changes air flow). It was so flimsy I was able to rip a good chunk off by hand (the part I thought may be vibrating).


The thing I noticed in the Toyota repair manual is that camber is adjusted by loosening the two lower strut mounting bolts and either pushing in or out for more negative or positive camber. Could this be the problem? I did notice the noise was worse after replacing the struts, unknown to me was that the mounting bolts adjust camber, so I didn’t bother to do anything other than worry about getting the struts mounted, not their exact position. It would make sense that the noise was only a little bit when the passenger side strut broke (likely changing camber a bit), and was somewhat masked by the noises coming from the broken strut itself. The noise at that time was coming from the passenger side, but after replacing the struts the now louder noise is obviously coming from the drivers side. The biggest change in noise was after strut replacement.


In short, I am not 100% convinced it is a bearing, it could be the camber adjustment being off and generating tire noise as a result.


Anybody got an idea how to tell which is the problem, camber adjustment or wheel bearing? I have driven it 1500+ miles with this noise, how long can a bad bearing last? How long would a bad camber adjustment take to show tire wear?
 

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Couple of checks you can do..
First, jack up RAV and grab the wheel in 12oc - 6oc position and wiggle it, see if there is any play. If there is.. then bearing is gone.
Second, you already answered that: when you have a faulty bearing, not lose, but making noise, it will change tone of noise or noise will completely go away when you put load on it, by turning.
Can you describe the sound? Do you feel like slight grinding sensation in the steering?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
here is what leads me to question if it is a bearing:
usually when a bearing goes bad, the sound is worse when turned in the opposite direction of the bearing
in my case, sound goes away when turn to right, no change when turned to left
I suppose it is possible it is the right bearing then, but that wheel seems in better shape than the drivers side


it is not a grinding sound. or clicking sound, it is a very low frequency sound, kind of like a tire badly out of alignment, although you'd think there would be wear


I have now driven over 1500 miles since it started sounding loud, previously to replacing struts, it was a very low volume sound, although obviously sound of bad struts may have masked it somewhat, although I do think it is much louder now, but really hasn't changed much if at all since replacing struts, the big change in sound was before and after replacing struts


if it is a bearing, it is self destructing at a very slow pace
as far as play goes I did not notice play up and down
I will have to check that again
 

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It`s funny that you mentioned it, i had same kind of dilemma, not with RAV4, it was 4th gen 4Runner.. i was suspecting driver side bearing, it was humming after approx 30 mph, so i followed someones advice and did a few wide turns, and reassured myself that that was the drive side, because when i was turning right, bearing will be loaded and sound would change. Which indeed happened, made a wide right turn at 40 mph and sound was gone. So i replaced driver side bearing.. and what do i know.. sound didn`t go away haha .. it turned out to be pass side, which i replaced later. Not saying that, if it comes to replacement, to replace both.. but there is a chance that you will replace wrong one and will have to address the other side later :)
But look at the bright side, you`v done amazing, 250k miles on original bearings, it`s a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
that's the problem, I wish I knew for sure what is wrong, I'm sure if one bearing is bad, the other won't be far behind, but I'd hate to spend all that time and find out I fixed the wrong one and have to do it again, or worse, that something else is really the problem. I am starting to think it may be the CV.
 

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RAV4.2 front wheel bearings are not bearing/hub assembly. You have to separate them to unlock and change the bearing.


If you have a mechanic stethoscope in your toolbox, use it to determine which bearing is noisy while the wheels are running in the air (on a lift). It's frequent to ear noisy bearings without any loose.
 

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My bad, when I meant front bearing I meant assembly, I don't really separate components in my mind haha. As far as I know there are 3 components, bearing, seal and the hub. Bearing is pressed into the hub with seal inserted prior. Then whole assembly bolted on. Unless 4.2 is completely different design. If it is, my bad )). Depressing bearing and reusing hub is pointless in my honest opinion.
 

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English is not my first language, so I sometimes may understand a post differently than it should be (and vice versa).


There is an exploded view of a 4.2 front wheel bearing/hub assembly.


 

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No worries Commando, English is not my first language either haha. This is what I mean by bearing assy, it slides over axle and bolts right in with 4 bolts from inside of steering knuckle. Image attached.
 

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No worries Commando, English is not my first language either haha. This is what I mean by bearing assy, it slides over axle and bolts right in with 4 bolts from inside of steering knuckle. Image attached.
This type bearing is used on my Ford trucks and a lot of minivans but isn't the same as the one in Commando's post. I suspect his is the correct type.
 

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This type bearing is used on my Ford trucks and a lot of minivans but isn't the same as the one in Commando's post. I suspect his is the correct type.
Yup, Commando was right, 4.2 RAV4 uses exactly what he described. 4.3 and up uses the one i was talking about. My bad. Got mixed up in generations haha. :smile
 

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The diagram Commando posted is correct. Maybe repair kit provided by RockAuto assumes reuse of original seals? I am not familiar with this design, don`t want to mislead you :)
 

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actually I don't think Commando is quite right either, the bearing is pressed onto the hub, there is no separate seal
More Information for DURA-GO 29596077
here is the hub and bearing

My 4.2 don't have seals and dust deflector, only my 4.1. Other than that, the diagram is the same.


But you need to press the new bearing in the knuckle first, then install the snap ring. After that you press the hub in the bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
My 4.2 has the dust deflector, which I believe is to protect the brake rotor, not the wheel bearing, at least what is left of it, it was badly rusted like I stated previously, I thought it might be vibrating from wind and the cause of the noise, so I removed the front part of it that was going to fall off in the near future anyway.

I am more and more believing it is not the wheel bearing, it is something else.
 
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