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On my 2012 I replaced the bulb but still got no light so I checked with a voltmeter and got zero voltage. Yes the dash lights and even the head lights were on. Does anyone have any ideas :confused:
 

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On my 2012 I replaced the bulb but still got no light so I checked with a voltmeter and got zero voltage. Yes the dash lights and even the head lights were on. Does anyone have any ideas :confused:
The shifter light is in parallel with the back-lighting of all the other lights such as, the seat heaters, the DAC button, and the 4-way hazard switch. Note that I am talking about the back-lighting and not the yellow or green operational lights.

If these other lights are indeed working, then re-check the voltage between the two pins of the lamp socket (do not check from either pin to a ground point on the chassis). Let us know the results.
 

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The shifter light is in parallel with the back-lighting of all the other lights such as, the seat heaters, the DAC button, and the 4-way hazard switch. Note that I am talking about the back-lighting and not the yellow or green operational lights.

If these other lights are indeed working, then re-check the voltage between the two pins of the lamp socket (do not check from either pin to a ground point on the chassis). Let us know the results.
OK, thanks for that information. It doesn't have DAC, but does have Seat heaters, TRAC and of course Emergency Flashers, all of which have operating back lighting. There is no voltage from pin to pin on the gear shift light socket.
 

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My 08' gear selector light seems to be out also. The dash indicator works, showing which gear is selected but no lights on the center console by the shift handle.
 

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but does have Seat heaters, TRAC and of course Emergency Flashers, all of which have operating back lighting. There is no voltage from pin to pin on the gear shift light socket.
Just to clarify, you are measuring on the connector with 1 green wire, and 1 light-green wire?.

Every light on the dashboard is also connected to green and a light-green wire, and all the similarly colored wires are tied together in a pair of large connectors located behind the radio. One connector has 72 pins and the other has 84 pins.

It would be very unusual if only 1-2 wires of these 156 wires had become loose. It's more likely that the wires have become damaged close to the shifter, perhaps from abrasion with a moving part. Or perhaps when you removed the plastic trim you pulled excessively hard on the wires.

I would look for a damaged wire near the shifter, or a broken connection on the lamp socket itself.

Can you test the original bulb with an ohmmeter? If the bulb is still good, then the failure was more than likely due to a damaged wire. If the bulb was burnt out, then the wiring was probably in good shape until you disassembled things.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I had thrown the old bulb out. The two wires come out of the cable and go up to a clip that acts as a strain relief and then to the plug and from the plug some short wires to the light socket. Since the wire is so small and delicate I took a soldering iron and melted the insulation below the strain relief and got voltage. I bypassed one of the wires around the strain relief and got lucky- it was the culprit and everything works fine now. Thanks for your input ;)
 
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