Toyota RAV4 Forums banner

21 - 32 of 32 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
961 Posts
If the trans fluid and filter haven't been replaced, do it anyway. AWD takes a special fluid, not regular ATF.

And remember to check/change the transfer case and rear diffy's fluids too. The transfer case's dipstick is down low, behind the right front tire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
My first thought in reading your Header:
"Engine Coolant (Water) Temperature Sensor." Mine goes out every 3-yrs. And yes, I buy OEM Toyota sensors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
961 Posts
Mine goes out every 3-yrs. And yes, I buy OEM Toyota sensors.
Past-time to try an aftermarket one with that record! And to flush your cooling system and then use a quality antifreeze/distilled water mix.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Thanks, LugNut. I mis-spoke! ECT Sensor that lasted only 3-yrs. was Auto Zone, not OEM, bought in a pinch (road-trip). Factory ECT likely lasted 18-yrs. if that's possible? Aftermarket, three. Also, thankfully did flush coolant-- now sporting OEM Toyota Red. Will stick w/ OEM Toyota sensors. P.S. Apologies to Toyota OEM parts for mistake posted in #22 above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #25 (Edited)
Update 2
Lesson learned, as soon as you brag on your dog is when it craps in your floor.

Fired up the Rav early Saturday morning to take it to the town coffee joint, started easy sounded good all that. It is a low risk short trip. Pulled it over to the garage to put air in the tire and it started sputtering and shaking, I jumped in the cab and gave it gas and it revved up just fine and stabilized but the second I got off the throttle it sputtered, died, and would not start. I cussed it for a minute or two and assumed that it was dead for now and went to breakfast in my daily.

I had a day date with my lady friend later in the day that I couldnt go to with greasy hands, so I wouldn't be able to touch the Rav until Sunday. Sunday rolled around and I couldn't get it to start again so I yanked the battery box and wanted to check that sensor. My thinking was that I hadn't torqued it as much as it needed and it had wriggled and wiggled itself to not picking up the reluctor tooth. So I removed, inspected, and reinstalled it at what I can assume is the correct tq and alignment. After a few trys it started and I moved it to a more suitable spot to work on it. I did the coils and wires it's back to starting but not perfect. When its having one of its moody spells I can pepper it with a touch of starter fluid and it starts like it should. Everything I see points to my air being lean of fuel during startup. I may have blinders on and be ignoring other symptoms but I can feel it in my bones that my mix is off. Too much air or too much fuel.

Are there any fuses or relays anyone knows of that would cause your air to be lean intermittently or just during start?

Could this be the EGR system letting too much exhaust gas in during startup? Does the EGR let exhaust gas in during startup? It seems to be a common problem with the 4.1 with some similar symptoms.

Could this actually be caused by the crank sensor. It's likely it is in worse condition than the cam sensor.

Could this be timing related? I plan to rent a flasher to check it this week. If it has jumped a tooth or two. How would I unjump it? Is it easier just to do a full timing and alternator belt replacement? Might as well do the oil pump while I'm knuckle deep in it from what I've read.

@Elle_Rav4 First thing that crossed my mind when I seen the condition of the camshaft position sensor was that the crank sensor had to be twice as dirty. I was planning to do the timing belt solo in December. I have some time off work, so I can give it my full attention for a few days with no lapses in focus and I can go through it at a learner's pace to do the job correctly.

@Roundabout I'll consult my FSM on where and what to look for. I only seen maybe one other topic on rav4world that even referenced that code and it makes sense that the it trying to move power would rob the power.

@LugNut I'llbe sure to add that to the list of stuff I plan on doing. Thanks for the heads up on the specialized fluid.

@Techsus when yours went out did you show your resistance out of spec? Mine is reading in spec and my scanner shows it accurately showing the temp outside when its sat for a while, and it shows in operating temp after its ran for a good long time.


Thanks again everyone. I'll be sure to update again soon.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
New info.
I took the rav for a drive around town and pulled a new code, 20191201_113540.jpg
I'm assuming the code has always been present but never managed to stick because I had the battery off so often charging it before I replaced it. Yesterday was the first real good distance drive I'd had in it since getting stuck at the auto parts store and I've read that you need 20-100 miles for this code to pop up.

I was going to clean the throttle body and butterfly anyway so while I did that I removed and inspected the egr valve. It moved freely and would stay open and not lose vac if I manually opened it and put my finger over the vacuum inlet. I did a brisk clean off of some mild carbon build up on the mounting surfaces and replaced both gaskets. I got a friend to rev to 3000rpms so I could manually check vacuum coming from the vsv and there was none.
I'll be inspecting for leaks and replacing the vacuum lines for sure but I suspect the vsv is cooked as it's a common issue. Has anyone had good experiences with an aftermarket vsv? Should I go OEM?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
457 Posts
Strongly recommend OEM! Never aftermarket Chinesium junk, very bad futile habit to indulge. Last week, I traced my intermittent, pesky, on-again-off-again (began FEB2019) Code #P0446 to a dead Vapor Canister VSV [OEM #90910-12271 Vacuum Switch Valve Vapor Canister = AISIN #VST-012 Bulk Vacuum Switch Valve "Blue" AMAZON Aisin #VST-012 $39.65 15NOV2019. NOTE: ALT. part number: OEM FACTORY VSV Removed from my RAV4 24NOV2019 TOYOTA PART labelled "#90910-12109." McGeorge online says "REPLACED by Vacuum Valve Toyota "#90910-12271" End Note].
Yes, I deem AISIN = OEM as Toyota still owns 25% of AISIN and used to own it 100%.
Scotty Kilmer tipped me off-- said recently that Vapor Canister VSVs often fail. Removed harness, tested w/ 9- Volt battery: no click-click-click. To-date, numerous OBDIIs later, thankfully unable to throw P0446 now.
Be careful using just the name "VSV" as there can be three, five or more in engine bay. Mighty confusing before I figured that out from Evap System diagrams. That's when I began collecting various "VSV" Toyota 10-digit Part Numbers for them all. Perhaps you can read my Thread on P0446 in RAV4 World.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
423 Posts
WastefulNot2,

-- I too have had the P0401 code recently. I noticed that, after re-setting the CEL, the CEL would not come back right away.

-- The resistance on the EGR VSV is supposed to be 33 to 39 ohms at room temperature. Mine failed this test. You can also connect the EGR VSV briefly to your battery. If you do not hear a click, then the solenoid has failed.

-- I bought an Aisin EGR VSV from eBay for $44 last month. Aisin is the maker of the part for Toyota. The dealer wants a lot more for the exact same, Aisin-made part. The Aisin part number is VST-034.

-- The EGR VSV is hard to get to on the 4wd Rav4. Many people just squeeze a hand behind the engine and remove its two vacuum hoses and electrical connector. They leave the old EGR VSV mounted on the back of the engine, R. I. P. They mount a new EGR VSV on the firewall near the other major EGR parts.

-- Another argument for re-locating the EGR VSV is that its solenoid sees a lot of heat at the Rav4's EGR VSV design location. Solenoid life is typically reduced by exposure to high temperatures.

-- I like these two threads for info on replacing the Rav4.1's EGR VSV:
and

-- I concur with Techsus that there are several VSVs in the engine bay. But there is only one EGR system VSV.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
@Techsus Thanks for the heads up, I was looking up the vsv and noticed two different styles right off the bat. I was prepared to dig around and find the right replacement before bed tonight. That P0446 post is a damn good reference.

@Elle_Rav4 Again, thank you. You always reply with information about what I ask about and more. I watched a few videos of people removing and testing the EGR vsv and the only thing I could think about was the logistics of getting my hand to the dang thing! I think a relocation is a good plan. It's a good excuse for me to replace the vacuum lines with those fancy colored ones I read about in the P0446 thread and it means I dont have to remove it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
Update 2

@Roundabout I'll consult my FSM on where and what to look for. I only seen maybe one other topic on rav4world that even referenced that code and it makes sense that the it trying to move power would rob the power.
In volume 1 of your FSM, the P1770 error code is listed in the table on page DI-243, and in detail starting on page DI-272.
I have never worked on an automatic Rav4, so I can only point you to the manual in this area.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
590 Posts
For the starting problem I would check the STA signal at the ECU, should be 6 volts or more when the starter is turning the engine. STA and NE are the 2 signals that cause the ECU to turn on the fuel-pump. The ECU also does a little more with the STA signal, this is from the FSM:
Starter Signal Circuit
CIRCUIT DESCRIPTION: When the engine is cranked, the intake air flow is slow, so fuel vaporization is poor. A rich mixture is therefore necessary in order to achieve good startability. While the engine is being cranked, the battery positive voltage is applied to terminal STA of the ECM. The starter signal is mainly used to increase the fuel injection volume for the starting injection control and after−start injection control.
 
21 - 32 of 32 Posts
Top