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MattPoole, to make sure I am reading your post correctly: When you say "when the key is turned on," what position is the key in? The ignition key has four positions: Lock, ACC, On, Start. Turning the key from "Lock" to the "On" position, and subsequently leaving the key in the "On" position, by design will not turn the fuel pump on.

The presence of fuel pressure, and the whirring sound of the fuel pump motor, when the key is turned to "Start" should eliminate the possibility that relays in the fuel pump circuit are not working.

I am leaning towards the timing being off, on account of the timing belt having slipped. A person can take off the upper timing belt cover and get a better look at what is going on when the engine cranks but does not start. Though getting off the upper timing belt cover is labor intensive all by itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Back after some time but my fuel pump was bad. And had the dirtiest in tank filter I've ever seen. Got the new parts in and installed. The new pump clearly works and can be heard. But it still will not start. Its definitely getting spark and now gas and Plenty of air.
 

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-- Make sure your battery cable connections are clean and snug. It is quite common for this to be the cause of a no start. I think in the last two months, this Rav4.1 forum has seen at least three no starts that were due simply to bad battery connections. You want to check both the positive and negative cable connections to the battery. You also need to check the cable from the negative terminal to the Rav4's body. The latter is the "ground cable." The bolt holding the ground cable to the Rav4 body should not show any corrosion. Remove the bolt and inspect it. Clean as needed.

-- Some folks have installed all new ground cables on their Rav4s, with good results. Take the above (about cleaning the terminals and ground connection) seriously.

-- I know you posted you had recently had the timing belt replaced and presumably drove your Rav4 for some weeks without a problem. Still I am back to suspecting the timing. Some folks take off a couple of the bolts holding the upper timing belt cover in place. Then they pry the top of the upper timing belt cover away from the engine so that the timing belt can be seen (more or less). You might be able to see if the timing belt is skipping teeth when the engine cranks (via the starter). Else doing a thorough check of the timing belt is labor intensive.

-- A super dirty in-tank filter suggests a rusted tank. My Rav4 has a rusted fuel tank. I change the fuel pump strainer every six months. All's been fine for the last 1.5 years. Though at some point soon, I need to replace the fuel tank.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I'll check all this tomorrow when I get it into my garage. I prefer not to do most work in my gravel driveway. the timing belt is at the top of my suspect list.
 

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-- What year is your Rav4?

-- Does it have an automatic or manual transmission?

-- Is the engine computer throwing any codes?

-- What, if any, maintenance has been done in the last few months?

-- When is the last time the timing belt and associated parts were changed? The TB tensioner can fail; the belt can stretch; oil can get into the timing belt area and cause a failed crankshaft position sensor; more.

-- I would start by checking the crankshaft position (CKP) sensor. The sensor itself requires a lot of labor to get to, but you can do some checks without putting your hands on the sensor itself. For example:
-wiring. Any chafing visible?
-connector. Are the female and male ends mating correctly, with no bent pins?
-resistance. Disconnect the male and female connector's ends. Use a multimeter to check the resistance of the sensor as follows:
Cold Resistance = 985 to 1,600 Ω
Hot Resistance = 1,265 to 1,890 Ω
-mounting. Inspecting the mounting is labor intensive. A small bolt holds the sensor in place. Did the bolt come loose? If so, the air gap is likely incorrect.
1999 automatic did timing chain couple months ago threw code po335
 
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