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I just bought a 1997 rav 4 today ( against my wifes wishes) , the lady said she parked it last year because sometimes when she put on the turn signal the car would just die in the middle of the road. It had a dead battery so i made an offer 0f $500 for it thinking i could get it going no problem . Nope no way Im F*&^%$cked my wife is going to kill me if i dont get this thing going.
So no power the distributor or fuel pump everything else works great it just wont start , no spark to the plugs or fuel pump as far as i could tell. I forgot my tester at home so i couldnt check for power at the fuel pump but i had my hand on it when the key was turned on and didnt feel or herar anything. Im thinking maybe the turn signal switch ? i was going to unplug it and see if that helps. has anyone heard of a problem like that before ? Its an automatic with 2
340,000 KM on it el.etric windows ,doors, AC , ABS timing belt done at 240,000
Thanks.
 

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Time to check all fuses and relays. Any evidence of loose grounds and/or aftermarket or damaged wiring? If so, make sure all important connections are tight. I seriously doubt the turn signal switch is the issue, but the circuit may be... so you have an electrical schematic?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
No i dont have a schematic, I'm just wondering why it was dieing only when the turn signal was turned on ? And no power to pump or sparkplug. Lots of power to the starter lights , Windows ETC . The lady said it would do it only once in awhile at first then her son started driving it and it was doing it a little more frequently. Where would the circuit be? Could it be the relay?
 

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On my Rav4 turning the key on, does not turn on the fuel pump. The ECU waits until it sees the engine running or the starter in use before it turns on the fuel pump. A rough test is to feel the fuel-line near the fuel-filter after the car has been sitting for awhile. Then try squeezing fuel-line while cranking the engine. Should notice a lot of difference.

The turn signal may not be the problem, it may have just been enough added load to the dying battery, to shut off the electronics. Or it could be a ground problem as the Rav4 is known to have a weak ground system.

Do you have the owners manual? It will have a fuse list and their locations.

At that price, it is still not a bad deal if it just needs a little TLC.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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Did you replace the battery or just attempt to jump start it? If the battery is dead, you may be able to get enough power into it by attempting to jump start it, to turn it over, but not enough to run the car. While you have the battery out clean the ground point hidden behind the battery, put a little dielectric grease on it to keep it from corroding. Also wire brush the terminals, and the battery posts apply some dielectric grease on the battery post and clamp it down. Now try starting the car. By the way, you can get a 24F battery in there just trim the retainer edge down put a rubber pad under it for padding and support.

Good luck, it's probably something quite simple.
 

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#1)
Have you checked for any error codes stored in the ECM.

#2)
Do you know if your RAV4 is equipped with an immobilizer?. They were not mandatory in Canada until 2007 but some Canadian vehicles had them installed earlier than 2000, and less complicated systems even earlier than that, but I can't determine if the RAV4 did.

Some Googling has indicated that people were having problems with their immobilizers from that vintage, and the problem was easily resolved by just unplugging these early systems. I'm not sure if any of these reports were from Canada or only Europe. Does your key look like it might hold a RFID chip inside the head? Some of the early PATS (passive anti theft systems) used special keys with resistors embedded in the shaft. Did you try starting the engine with the 2nd key? Do you see any anti-theft lights on the dashboard?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
No i didn't know about the ECM , and yes there a light and a microphone on the dash for the security system . No fob or chip in the key as far as I know. Thanks I'll check that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hey thanks for spending the time to respond to my post. I think it's something straight forward for sure probably a ground or something . I have tons of power with the new battery and also I had one of those lithium chargers on it as well just for good measure. I didn't have a tester with me though so I'll grab one and head back there to do some testing. Also a code reader to see if it's throwing any codes. Thanks James.
 

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'99 RAV4.1, 3MZ-FE, E250F 4x4, Torsen Dif
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If you have a smartphone you can get a bluetooth code reader that plugs into your OBDII port and then you have to get an app like "torque" that will read your codes and you can see things happening in real time. You can also reset your codes with the app. A lot cheaper and easier to use than most code readers, unless you can rent one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey looks like the coil wire might be faulty , I was checking some connections with a multi meter and my father in law suggested I check the coil/modulator wire because sometimes there can break and look and behold looks like it is no continuity!!!. I'll get a new one today and hope that's what the problem is . Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Nope apparently the NGK wires are carbon and don't give a continuity reading damn!!! Oh well I'm going to have to see if it's a ground , that's what I'm thinking. I've heard from a few people that rave have ****ty grounds. Also one mechanic said that each system has its own ground that's why there's so many, also it could be a dead short in a turn signal wire as well.
 

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NGK shows their wires being tested with a multi-meter.
Claims NGK carbon-fiber wires should read 8k per meter.

My 99 Rav4 has 13 ground systems listed in the manual.

A dead-short in your turn signal would pop the fuse.
 

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Nope apparently the NGK wires are carbon and don't give a continuity reading damn!!!
Resistance spark plug wires were introduced decades ago, as a way of reducing noise on the radio. The value of resistance might change from one brand to another, but as a rule of thumb I always used 10K ohms per foot of wire as the maximum I should expect to read. Since most of the wires in your EAV should be shorted than 2 feet, any wire with higher than 20K ohms resistance should be considered defective.

Did you measure all your wires? Surely they are not all defective.

Edit: found this on the NGK website
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey i just bought new ones and checked the coil wire on those as well i guess i probably dont have the right tester and looks like i bought a new pair of wires for $91.00 for nothing HaHaHaHa. today i had some time to check out a few things and when i turned on the left of right turn signal ( with the motor not running obviously because i cant start it ) and when the indicator light on the dash flashed left or right theres a light close to them i think it says AT fluid or something its red and the ebrake light flashes in unison with the turn signal indicators . The lady i bought it from said when she put the turn signal on he motor would immediately die , not all the time but more frequently right before she parked it. Then i bought it and cant get spark to the spark plugs but everything else works great , lights , electric doors locks ETC. I downloaded a Toyota service manual from the net so hopefully i can fix it this weekend. What are your thoughts on my problem? oh and another thing im only getting 7 volts of power to the fuel pump, not sure what it should be till i read
the service manual.
Thanks.
 

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Are you sure it is the ebrake light that is flashing and not the brake trouble light (usually indicates low fluid level in the master cylinder). Turn on one of the directional signals and check if the brake lights are also flashing. When you step on the brake pedal or apply the ebrake, do the turn signals light up as well?

BTW, you only need an ohm meter to test the wires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ebrake.

The turn signals work fine front and back , the e brake dummy light doesn't flash when the e brake is disengaged and the ATF Trans Fluid light lights up quite bright when i initially turn on the turn signals , then with each flash of the indicators on the dash the ATF light get dimmer and dimmer until it doesn't flash at all but the e brake light keeps flashing just a bright as the rest.
 

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Just to be certain I understand what you have said.....

The ebrake warning light should be on steady when the ebrake is applied, is that happening?. Your ebrake light flashes in unison with the turn indicator lights? OR Does the ebrake light flash out of phase with the turn signals ( it turns off when the turn indicator turns on). Does the ebrake light only flash if the ebrake is applied and it does not flash when the ebrake is released? Does the A/T temp light only come on if the ebrake is applied?

Does the ebrake light flash when using the 4way flashers as well.?

It turns out that the brake bulb and the A/T Oil Temp light share some circuitry. They should both light up for a few seconds as part of the bulb testing. Does your ebrake bulb (and A/T bulb) light up for a few seconds then turn off when you first turn on the ignition, even when the ebrake is NOT engaged.

Do all the other indicators appear to be operating properly, such as high beam indicator, seatbelt warning, open door alert, etc. Is there any interaction between these bulbs and the turn signals or ebrake?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hi thanks for replying , the e-brake light and ATF light flashes only when I turn on the turn indicafter and in unison. I haven't actually tried the indicators with the e-brake on I don't think but I'm thinking they won't flash and again I haven't tried the four way flashers yet to see what lights , if any come on. I will try that right after work. Thanks.
 

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