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I have some pretty gnarly grinding sounds coming from the passenger front wheel well.

I've been looking for front hub and bearing assemblies.

Does anyone have replacement instructions for the front hub of a 2000 rav??

TIA
 

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A nice video and the way Toyota should have done the first generation, but didn't.

When I redid mine I found 2 ways to change the bearings. The Toyota way has you remove the steering knuckle and several steps with a press. Then you need to get a front-end alignment after you have it back together.

The other way you leave the steering knuckle on the car. You use a slide hammer to remove the hub from the bearing, then using a wheel-bearing adapter kit from harbor-freight you can press the bearing from the knuckle. Still using the kit you press the new bearing into the knuckle and then press the hub into the bearing.

This may be more than you want to try, but I'll post more details if you want to try.
The pdf covers the Toyota way, of pressing the bearing out.
 

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Roundabout, I know it's been a couple of years, but any chance you can post more details of changing out the front wheel bearing? On my 2wd Rav4.1, I think I have either a bad wheel bearing in the front or a bad CV joint.
 

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Roundabout, I know it's been a couple of years, but any chance you can post more details of changing out the front wheel bearing? On my 2wd Rav4.1, I think I have either a bad wheel bearing in the front or a bad CV joint.
pretty straight forward on these ravs!
you need tools!
the hyd press is faster!
and there is a set of oem Toyota tools that makes it real fast..
see this page for the tools click here for the front hub tools link
 

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When my wheel bearings went bad it would take 15 or 20 minutes of driving to get the bearings up to operating temp before the problem would really be noticeable. On a curvy road, 35 to 45 mph, the RAV4 sounded normal going straight but had a metallic-hiss in the curves. Sounded fine except for the curves, when the Rav4 would hiss all through the turn.

Since my alignment was good and I don't have the equipment to do the alignment myself, I went with the non-Toyota method.
I used a Front Wheel Bearing Adapter Kit, a long name for a kit that uses a big screw as a portable press. The kit also includes a collection of cups and plates sized for most wheel bearings. The plates help center the pull on the bearing while allowing you to select to pull on the inner or outer bearing race. The cups give a place to pull the bearing when pulling the bearing out of a hole, or in this case out of the steering knuckle. The kits are available on Amazon and other places, but Amazon is an easy place to just look at a kit.

I can give you a rough outline, I replaced all of mine, one I did twice.
This is easier than it sounds and the kit works very well. The other special tool needed is a slide hammer with a hub adapter, many auto-part store offer theses as a free loaner tool.
Jack up the RAV4, remove the wheel and secure on jack-stands. You will need to pound and shake the car so it Needs To Be Well Supported.
With the driver-seat moved back I cut a 2x4 to fit between the seat-frame and the brake pedal, moving the seat forward and locking it in place holds the brakes while I remove the 30mm nut on the half-shaft.
Remove the caliper and hang it up so it won't get bumped loose.
Remove caliper bracket and rotor, then the fun part starts.
Using the slide-hammer you drive the hub out of the bearing, half of the inner-race remains on the hub and will have to be removed if you want to re-use the hub.
Time to get the shaft out of the way. I undid the nuts and bolts holding the lower ball-joint to the arm allowing the strut to move out enough to free the half-shaft. Support the shaft if you are not planning on replacing it, you are so close to having the shaft out at this point, it could easily pop out.
After removing the seal and snap-ring from the knuckle I found a plate that would push against the outer race, and a cup big enough the catch the bearing as the screw and plate pressed the bearing out of the knuckle.
Support the inner race of the bearing as you pull the hub into the installed bearing, it is the hub and inner race that are sliding together.
Swing the strut back out and reinstall the half-shaft, then try get the ball-joint in the original spot and torque the 3 bolts.
Put the rest of the stuff back on and you are ready to do the other side.
The rear bearings on the All Wheel Drives models, are like the front bearings while the rear bearing on a two wheel drive model are a simple bolt in job.

To reuse my hubs, I bolted the hub to the tire I had off to hold the hub while I used a 2-jaw puller, it is important to hold the top of the puller and not let it twist as you tighten the puller!
If you can keep the pull straight it slides off.

Air tools are not recommended for any of this. Take your time and enjoy.
I'll try to answer what I can.
While my brain got scattered, I think most of the pieces are still somewhere.
 
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Thanks so much for the instructions, Roundabout and Iowagold.

I hear a metallic hiss sometimes when going straight and sometimes on turns. A friend and I narrowed the noise to the front left side. To diagnose further, today I separated the front left side steering knuckle from the front left drive shaft (a.k.a. CV axle). I lifted the front brake caliper and removed the brake pads. I turned the axle hub and could hear the noise. I turned the CV axle (now separated from the axle hub) and did not hear the noise. I looked closely at the various brake parts and do not believe anything on the brakes is out of kilter. I cleaned out some of the old grease (as best I could) from the bearing with Q-tips and rags and added some new grease. The noise did not change. I am going to try to replace the bearing soon using the kit described in this thread.
 

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Wheel bearings are never fun, but like iowagold said, take your time and the right tools make it alot better.

I wish all cars were like front bearings on the Miata. Undo the axle nut, remove caliper and rotor, and it slides right off. Takes 15 minutes to change.
 

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Wheel bearings are never fun, but like iowagold said, take your time and the right tools make it alot better.

I wish all cars were like front bearings on the Miata. Undo the axle nut, remove caliper and rotor, and it slides right off. Takes 15 minutes to change.
that is maybe why they like the miata for racing..
lots of upgrade parts out for it as well..

yea i still think you can never have enough tools...
i budget 15.00 per week min to new tools...
over the last 40+ years...
yea a bit over $200k in tools..
lol and still shopping for more!!
i have lots of good lists over on
poust usa
one of the better tools is the induction bolt or parts heater!!
MUST HAVE TOOLS

one tool lists is here
ENGINE_TEST_EQUIPMENT
another is here
electronics_rework_page
 

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Roundabout, iowagold, kamakeraion and any others:
Have you been replacing both the hub and bearing, or just the bearing?

Also any comments on aftermarket bearings vs. the Toyota OEM bearing? I think the Toyota OEM bearing is made by Koyo.

Update: Since I cleaned out some of the old grease from the wheel bearing, and added some new grease, I have not heard the noise. Still, I plan to replace the bearing and two seals, and possibly the hub, soon.
 

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timken for the bearings
and if it is super rusty then yea on the hub replacement.
most hub kits are less than 100.00.
and a bit of hd red wheel bearing grease helps things slide together with the press kit.
never try to assy with a hammer. that will damage the balls or rollers.
 

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Please see photos. Which side of the bearing faces the tranny?
 

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and pack the bearing on that open bearing
I use the red wheel bearing grease.
press the knuckle side of the assy first.
and a bit extra grease after the knuckle inner seal is installed
the open part A is towards the INSIDE Steering knuckle seal.
then press in the hub seal, then the hub to knuckle assy last.
make sure every thing is seated fully.

use the press kit, BIG NOTE: DO NOT HAMMER THE NEW BEARING IN PLACE!

the tools for doing this on the suv are over at
poust usa
one of the better tools is the induction bolt or parts heater!!
CLICK HERE FOR MUST HAVE TOOLS

one tool lists is here
CLICK HERE FOR ENGINE TEST EQUIPMENT
another is here
CLICK HERE FOR THE electronics rework page
 

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Roundabout, iowagold, kamakeraion and any others:
Have you been replacing both the hub and bearing, or just the bearing?
I reused the hubs when I replaced my bearings and said if I did it again, I would replace the hubs.
When the old hub is driven out with the slide-hammer, part of the inner-race stays pressed on the hub. A 2-jaw puller can pull the race off, but you cannot let the puller twist. I did mine in the front yard so I bolted the hub back in the tire I took off, then I sat on the tire and pulled the race off the hub. I used a pipe wrench to help hold the puller so it didn't twist while pulling.
 
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I reused the hubs when I replaced my bearings and said if I did it again, I would replace the hubs.
When the old hub is driven out with the slide-hammer, part of the inner-race stays pressed on the hub. A 2-jaw puller can pull the race off, but you cannot let the puller twist. I did mine in the front yard so I bolted the hub back in the tire I took off, then I sat on the tire and pulled the race off the hub. I used a pipe wrench to help hold the puller so it didn't twist while pulling.
i just used a grinder to notch the race that was on the hub
to split the race.
you have to do it at an angle...
total pain!!
yup new hubs are the way to go!
way less time messing around.
 

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That usually is the best way. Tried that years ago on one and the inner race was so fused to the hub it wouldn't split. Ended up buying a new one.

Alternately, you can get a bearing separator/puller from HF or other store that does the work for you.
 

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Which side of the [wheel/hub] bearing faces the tranny?
My new Koyo/NSK bearings arrived. The bearings are exactly the same on both sides. I suppose the photos I posted above are by one of those sellers that disclaim the accuracy of their photos.

I practiced removing the bearing and hub at a salvage yard. As noted above, the otbd side of the inner race stuck to the hub. The otbd side of the inner race came off with just a small chisel and ordinary carpenter's hammer. But as indicated in this thread, I imagine the extent to which these inner races are 'welded by rust and press fit yada' to the hub will vary a lot.

Some but not all O'Reilly's stores have a mother of a loaner tool, EverTough 67213 (a.k.a. OEMTools 27213) for removing wheel bearings. It retails for over $400. I think its drive screw is 7/8-inch diameter. The kit weighs 32 pounds. It is heavy enough that I used a dolly to haul it around. But the under $100 kits (with 3/4-inch drive screws?) have great reviews at Amazon (and weigh only about 24 pounds). Like roundabout, iowagold and kamakeraion wrote, the less expensive kits do the job.

The bearing maintenance I did a couple of weeks ago (removing some of the old grease from the front left bearing and replacing with a bit of new grease) still continues to hold, at least as far as noise from the bearing is concerned. That is, the noise remains absent.

I started a web site on this topic: Front Wheel Bearing Replacement - ellessite .
 
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