[acsmith1972]

I can't do the rotors right now but a guy at work says I can do the pads this time around. He mentioned opening the master cylinder and using a C clamp. I watched two diy videos but neither showed that part.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

The C-clamp is used to push the caliper pistons in to make room for the new thicker pads. I usually leave one of the old pads in and use my large channel-lock pliers. The old pad protects the pistons from getting gouged and allows pushing equally on both pistons (if there are two). The reason for removing the cap is to monitor fluid level. I assume that's what he means by "opening the master cylinder."

 

[Rickl]

This YouTube video shows the C-Clamp procedure at the 4:03 minute mark.
https://youtu.be/jvROQDsabTw?t=4m3s

 

[Dr. Dyno]

This YouTube video shows the C-Clamp procedure at the 4:03 minute mark.
https://youtu.be/jvROQDsabTw?t=4m3s

Starting from the beginning of her video the only things I'd do different is loosen the lug nuts before jacking up the car and turn the steering wheel so the caliper is easier to access. Also "tighten the caliper bolts as tight as you can" only applies to a 100# woman like her!

 

[vasillalov]

C-Clamps can do this on the cheap and that's nothing to complain about. They fail miserably when you have calipers with multiple pistons. I wanted to have one tool that can handle variety of calipers and situations. I run Stoptech brakes all around on my BMW and I find this Lisle 29100 amazing for resetting pistons:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29100-Quick-Quad-Spreader/dp/B005GLQCKA

It can be used for regular single piston floating calipers just as well. One tool to rule them all

 

[rav4system2]

This is being completely overthought. With everything in place take a good sized flat head screwdriver and place it between the rotor and pad backing plate. Use the screwdriver to wedge between the backing plate and rotor. Doing this will open a small gap between the pad material and the rotor. Once a small gap opens place the screwdriver in that gap. Then simply pry the pad away from the rotor, this evenly pushes the caliper piston in. This method works with single or multi piston calipers.

 

[acsmith1972]

And for the back wheels? They don't turn as far as I know. This will be my first time trying this.

 

[Dr. Dyno]

And for the back wheels? They don't turn as far as I know. This will be my first time trying this.

It is indeed very difficult to turn the back wheels. So start with them and the front ones will seem easy. But typically the rear pads wear much slower than the front and thus need to be changed maybe half as often.

 

[Rickl]

The procedure for changing the rear brake pads is pretty much identical to the front pads.

The rear brake rotors also contain brake "shoes" inside the "drum" portion of the rotor, which only come into play when you apply the parking brake. If you never drive with your parking brake on, these "shoes" should last the life of your RAV.

One thing that I have noticed about the rear brake pads, and it was confirmed by other members, is that the "ears" on the pads fit very tightly into the corresponding mounting points on the caliper. I chose to grind a little metal from the "ears" so that the pads could move more easily without sticking.

I actually noticed this problem with genuine Toyota pads, so I don't know if the tightness is by design, but I feel that if you need a hammer and screwdriver to remove the pads, then they are too tight.

 

[acsmith1972]

In the video above it looks like they just pop out. I work till 9:30 but it's warm today and I have everything I need in my garage so I'll probably do this tonight.

 

[acsmith1972]

When I drive it sounds like a train braking and the sound seems to be coming more from the rear. My biggest worry is not being able to get the pads off and the new ones on. All the videos look pretty easy so I hope it is. So far with this car I've done the air filter, cabin filter, headlights (using 4000LM led bulbs), oil changes except when it's too cold, transmission flush, coolant flush, front transfer case, i did an o2 sensor, I tried the rear diff but I couldn't reach it even jacked up so I let Valvoline do that. After I master the brakes the only two real projects will be spark plugs-and the three in the back look like a nightmare, and possibly a cai.

 

[JuneBug]

I did the front and rear brakes using Advics pads from Amazon. They all fit perfectly, no grinding necessary. The rear brakes were very easy to do.

BTW, this is an excellent thread with lots of pictures:

http://www.rav4world.com/forums/99-4-3-mechanical/187122-3rd-gen-brake-overhaul.html

 

[Upssnowman]

Starting from the beginning of her video the only things I'd do different is loosen the lug nuts before jacking up the car and turn the steering wheel so the caliper is easier to access. Also "tighten the caliper bolts as tight as you can" only applies to a 100# woman like her!

No don't tighten the caliper bolts as tight as possible there is a specified torque range to tighten them and it's nowhere near as tight as possible

 

[gs69gto]

I did the front and rear brakes using Advics pads from Amazon. They all fit perfectly, no grinding necessary. The rear brakes were very easy to do.

BTW, this is an excellent thread with lots of pictures:

3rd Gen Brake Overhaul

Do not push the piston back as is being shown in this photo with the c clamp directly on the piston,,inside the cup. You can damage the piston or get it cocked this way. Always place an old pad in front of the piston and push on that with the c clamp so its retracted evenly. You also remove the master cylinder cap first to alleviate pressure in the system when your forcing fluid back to that master cylinder when pushing the piston back.

I've seen other techs dislodge the reservoir when they missed that step....not good.