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Discussion Starter #1
Have about 40k miles on my Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus tires. Have been pleased with them, rotated every 5k miles. Wearout warranty is 65k, but the wear bars are pretty close (maybe an 1/8th inch?) from being exposed, so they are close to the end of service.

How do tire wearout warranties work, if, say, these have worn out faster than they should have?

I ask because today I was driving in the rain for the first time in a while and was able to break them loose fairly easily on an exit ramp that I use a lot. The RAV drifted nicely (all four wheels) and the ABS kicked in just a bit before I brought it back. Granted, any tire, even new, could be broken free in this manner but earlier in the day I detected what I felt was some sliding when I was NOT trying to corner hard, thus my desire to test them.

I also see that there is a new, Scorpion Verde All Season Plus "II" version that claims better wet and dry traction. I think those are what I'd go with but am looking at all options. (I know tire choice is a big thing here with lots of opinions and favorites.)

Thanks!
 

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Tire warranties are usually pretty useless unless you meet their requirements and the tires are obviously bad. I was turned down when I tried to get new tires under warranty when they wore out after 10,000 miles. Nope, not covered, Thanks Goodyear, I'll take my business elsewhere. I don't count on tire warranties. There is too much hassle and argument over who is responsible. I just bought my coopers from a local guy and found out they didn't come with a warranty, or so he says. I think cooper would stand behind them. I know there was a two year replacement guarantee if purchased online, but I'm sure there are stipulations there too, like you have to ship the old tires back or something.
 

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Trying to squeeze every mile out of a tire because the mfg. states they will last 65K isn't a good idea IMO. If the tires are old (7 years is the recommended limit), are cracking, or getting close to min. tread (wear bars) I think it's time for new tires. The rubber compounds deteriorates from age, and UV so 65K warranty is under ideal conditions, and most likely wishful thinking. I just replaced the original tires on my Rav. They weren't worn out, but were 7 years old and cracking. The ride, noise, and overall feeling of stability has improved dramatically. I think you should treat yourself to some new boots, and forget about the warranty on your existing tires.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks, good advice.

Tires are three years old.

Agree about not trying to eek out the last remaining miles, especially if the tires are unsafe or not performing (these fall into the latter category).

I'm planning on running them until I switch to my Blizzak's on OEM steelies around Thanksgiving or early December, depending on when the snow will start here in NJ. Then with them off the car, I have all winter to decide what to replace them with.

Tire shopping is such a PITA. Everyone has favorites for different reasons. Tire Rack's reviews vary so widely from person to person. My own experience with the Pirelli's has been good overall, if they'd claimed a 45,000 mile wearout, I'd be like, ok, I can tolerate that given the performance (which has been really good).

Reason for my query was that if I had a way to claim premature wear and get some $$$ off the new set I get at Tire Rack, then it might be worth the effort. I'll start a chat session with a Tire Rack rep and see where it goes.

Thanks again.
 

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I agree on the reviews and ratings swinging wildly. I had an idea of what I wanted and it ended up being the only tire with 5 star reviews across the board on multiple sites. I wanted to try it 7 years ago, but my truck tires were still going strong, so I decided to try them on the rav. So far so good.
 

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Tire warranties generally are like conventional car battery warranties - a period of guarantee that if the tire fails or has an obvious defect when the manufacturer will replace the tire at no cost, with the balance of the mileage warranty pro-rated based upon the percentage of tread worn and left on the tire based upon the wear mileage warranty.
 

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That's how it's supposed to work, but getting them to honor it can be a pain and is often wasted time. Mine were shot in 10k and they would not replace them because I didn't meet their criteria. They had to mount, balance, rotate, and service them. I don't trust just most tire shops to do it 100% right. I have worked at tire shops and see wsy too many people with leaky rims to trust a tire shop anymore. I do it myself and know it's right. The last person to lift one our vehicles crushed the body corner under the door. I'm not chancing it again. Try to get them warrantied, but I can't guarantee they will do it.
 

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Thanks, good advice.

Tires are three years old.

Agree about not trying to eek out the last remaining miles, especially if the tires are unsafe or not performing (these fall into the latter category).

I'm planning on running them until I switch to my Blizzak's on OEM steelies around Thanksgiving or early December, depending on when the snow will start here in NJ. Then with them off the car, I have all winter to decide what to replace them with.

Tire shopping is such a PITA. Everyone has favorites for different reasons. Tire Rack's reviews vary so widely from person to person. My own experience with the Pirelli's has been good overall, if they'd claimed a 45,000 mile wearout, I'd be like, ok, I can tolerate that given the performance (which has been really good).

Reason for my query was that if I had a way to claim premature wear and get some $$$ off the new set I get at Tire Rack, then it might be worth the effort. I'll start a chat session with a Tire Rack rep and see where it goes.

Thanks again.

Hey, It's worth a try, but be aware, they may give you a pro-rated value for your tires if you buy the same tire again at full retail price which may be more than you can buy the tires at a discount. That's what happened to me with a single tire years ago which was about 1/3 worn and had a defect. The mfg.warranty covered the tire, but was pro-rated, and the replacement was going to cost more than buying the same tire new from the same dealer without going through the warranty process. If the warranty was used it had to applied to the mfg. suggested retail price of the tire. Something to consider...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep! Super helpful. I know what I want, the new version of these tires, and if the early wearout can get me some $$$ off, hell yes, I'm all over that!

Just got off a chat with Tire Rack. I bought the tires there almost exactly three years ago.

Here is what I was told:

"I am sorry to hear that your tires have worn out before reaching 65,000 miles. The following conditions must be met to qualify for the tread life warranty: Tires have to be evenly worn across the face of the tread No bead damage from mounting or dismounting No impact damage (bulges or bubbles in the sidewall) No patch, plug repairs Tires have to be worn down to at least 3/32” of tread depth, if the tires have more than 2/32nds of tread the useable tread would be deducted from the credit The manufacturer requires paperwork showing the mileage on your vehicle when the tires were installed and your current mileage. Please or email mileage paperwork to [REDACTED] When the tires are returned, the pro-rated credit will be issued to your credit card used on the original order less the nominal 7.00 per tire return freight fee."

Then I asked how I get the tires to them - UPS picks up, $7/tire return fee. Reasonable.

"Just let us know when they are back at the home address and we will send UPS out to pick them up. The driver will have the return labels. Please be advised though we will not initiate the pick up until we have confirmation of the tread depth and mileage paperwork."

Finally I asked if I could wait to make the claim, since I plan to run these until I install the winter wheels/tires later this year, and was told it would be ok:

"There is not a time frame other than the 65K miles so if you want to wait a little bit that is no problem."

So now I'm off to buy a treadwear depth gauge (tried too many times with coins, need something more precise). With luck, when all this nets out, I'll come out ahead!

Thanks, kj
 

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I think you will find the wear bar is right at 3/32" at least it is with my new tires. For you to get all 4 tires to that depth across all treads may require a lot of driving and checking of depth. Also, as Tire Rack stated the wear must be evenly worn across the tire. I just checked the tires on my truck with 17K on them. I check tire pressure every month and rotate annually (2-3K miles). The center treads have 1/32 more wear than edges. I wonder if evenly worn tires actually exist?
Let us know how your mileage warranty claim turns out.
 

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That's how it's supposed to work, but getting them to honor it can be a pain and is often wasted time. Mine were shot in 10k and they would not replace them because I didn't meet their criteria. They had to mount, balance, rotate, and service them. I don't trust just most tire shops to do it 100% right. I have worked at tire shops and see wsy too many people with leaky rims to trust a tire shop anymore. I do it myself and know it's right. The last person to lift one our vehicles crushed the body corner under the door. I'm not chancing it again. Try to get them warrantied, but I can't guarantee they will do it.
I know what you mean about not trusting tire shops to do it right. When my new tires were installed, I watched the tech lift my Rav from the pinch welds about 4" away from the designated lift points WTF! Then I watched the tech install the lug nuts with an air impact driver. Then he checked them with torque wrench. I could see they were already over tightened, so when I got home, I loosened them all, and re-tightened to the correct torque. After driving a couple days, I re-torqued the nuts. And, lastly the tires over pressured the tires by 6-8psi on 3 tires with the correct psi on only one tire. Oh! I almost forgot, they also scratched the hell out of my painted steel spoked rims that I keep looking like new.
 

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I know what you mean about not trusting tire shops to do it right. When my new tires were installed, I watched the tech lift my Rav from the pinch welds about 4" away from the designated lift points WTF! Then I watched the tech install the lug nuts with an air impact driver. Then he checked them with torque wrench. I could see they were already over tightened, so when I got home, I loosened them all, and re-tightened to the correct torque. After driving a couple days, I re-torqued the nuts. And, lastly the tires over pressured the tires by 6-8psi on 3 tires with the correct psi on only one tire. Oh! I almost forgot, they also scratched the hell out of my painted steel spoked rims that I keep looking like new.
Never, ever lift a car by the pinch welds. I know the mfr says its ok, buts thats because they want to sell more cars. The very first time a car is lifted by the pinch weld the paint and filler crack and it starts rusting. I have worked at a few shops and the noises you hear the first time a car is lifted will make you cringe. The damage is done. Our rav has rusted out pinch welds now after 13 years of that. I'm cutting them out and replacing with 2x6 rectangle steel. THEN it can be safely lifted by those points.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I think you will find the wear bar is right at 3/32" at least it is with my new tires. For you to get all 4 tires to that depth across all treads may require a lot of driving and checking of depth. Also, as Tire Rack stated the wear must be evenly worn across the tire. I just checked the tires on my truck with 17K on them. I check tire pressure every month and rotate annually (2-3K miles). The center treads have 1/32 more wear than edges. I wonder if evenly worn tires actually exist?
Let us know how your mileage warranty claim turns out.
Tread depth gauge will be here Tuesday, will measure the wear in several spots and report back, they LOOK evenly worn, but who knows. I'm going to be extra careful driving from here until I mount the winter wheels/tires and we'll see how much additional wear they get. Double checked the installation and rotation records, tires officially have 44k on them (net of removal when snows were on), will probably have 46k by the time they come off and are sent in for evaluation. Here's how I look at it: I make the warranty claim, UPS comes and picks up the tires, Tire Rack decides if they qualify for any kind of reimbursement, less the $7/tire return fee. If they do, great, I've saved some money. If they don't, I effectively recycled the old tires for $7 each and didn't have to leave the house to do so. Everyone wins...lol
 

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I haven't had good experiences with any warranty, the one that come with the product or extended warranties. The fine print amounts to an exculpatory clause.

:(
 

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Never, ever lift a car by the pinch welds. I know the mfr says its ok, buts thats because they want to sell more cars. The very first time a car is lifted by the pinch weld the paint and filler crack and it starts rusting. I have worked at a few shops and the noises you hear the first time a car is lifted will make you cringe. The damage is done. Our rav has rusted out pinch welds now after 13 years of that. I'm cutting them out and replacing with 2x6 rectangle steel. THEN it can be safely lifted by those points.
Ike wrote:
"Never, ever lift a car by the pinch welds".

That may be the case with your 2006 rav, but my 2012 shows designated lift and jack stand points shown clearly in the service manual. They are indeed on the pinch welds at specific locations indicated by notches in the pinch welds. My 2012 rav has been lifted at least a dozen times using the manufacturers designated lift points with no deterioration of the pinch welds or rockers, and no rust. Of course notched rubber pads are required on the lift arms or jack stands. Actually I was surprised that Toyota designated these points for post or swing arm lifts and for jack stands as well.

Service manual:

145913
 

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I have had good luck with tire warranties at Costco. As long as I took the car in every 5000 miles for free rotation, they pro rated tires if they wore out prematurely.

Another good thing about Costco tire sales is that the sale price includes lifetime road hazard and balancing, along with free rotation.

Have about 40k miles on my Pirelli Scorpion Verde All Season Plus tires. Have been pleased with them, rotated every 5k miles. Wearout warranty is 65k, but the wear bars are pretty close (maybe an 1/8th inch?) from being exposed, so they are close to the end of service.

How do tire wearout warranties work, if, say, these have worn out faster than they should have?

I ask because today I was driving in the rain for the first time in a while and was able to break them loose fairly easily on an exit ramp that I use a lot. The RAV drifted nicely (all four wheels) and the ABS kicked in just a bit before I brought it back. Granted, any tire, even new, could be broken free in this manner but earlier in the day I detected what I felt was some sliding when I was NOT trying to corner hard, thus my desire to test them.

I also see that there is a new, Scorpion Verde All Season Plus "II" version that claims better wet and dry traction. I think those are what I'd go with but am looking at all options. (I know tire choice is a big thing here with lots of opinions and favorites.)

Thanks!
 

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The bad thing about Costco is that you have to wait 3.5 hours for them to put the tires on, not to mention coming back for the rotation. Maybe other locations are better.
 

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The bad thing about Costco is that you have to wait 3.5 hours for them to put the tires on, not to mention coming back for the rotation. Maybe other locations are better.
Yes, I've found some locations better than others, but generally I've found them to be quite good.
 

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Ike wrote:
"Never, ever lift a car by the pinch welds".

That may be the case with your 2006 rav, but my 2012 shows designated lift and jack stand points shown clearly in the service manual. They are indeed on the pinch welds at specific locations indicated by notches in the pinch welds. My 2012 rav has been lifted at least a dozen times using the manufacturers designated lift points with no deterioration of the pinch welds or rockers, and no rust. Of course notched rubber pads are required on the lift arms or jack stands. Actually I was surprised that Toyota designated these points for post or swing arm lifts and for jack stands as well.

Service manual:

View attachment 145913
You can use the inside frame rail to lift the car. Seems no one knows about it. Check it out.
 
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