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I have a 2012 base model and i'm trying to install the lights and just using the harness that came with them. I have power to the relay but can't get it through the relay. Bought a new relay from NAPA but that didn't work either. Any suggestions would help
 

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Can one of your fog light experts tell me what the grey harness/connector is for? I bought a fog light kit and installed but because my 2009 4wd base was pre-wired I have hooked it to the factory fog wires and bought also the napa relay but when I wanted to insert the relay into the relay box, it turns out that the relay box (where you plug the napa relay into) doesn't contain any wires from the back side, so it looks to me that the needed relay is probably already exist somewhere. so has someone any experience how to finish the wiring? otherwise I have to take off the bumper again and use the kit wire that came with it. There is also an other connector just behind the brake pedal, does anyone know what it is for? thanks advance,




 

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Missing relay for FOG lamps

The post was at first perfect as to how to wire in the fog lamps OEM. However this morning I opened up the dash and found our 2010 RAV4 relay panel as shown in the photo missing the section to plug in any more relays. The wire harness at the fog light location was there and I used it. Any ideas or suggestions as to how to proceed would be great.
 

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My RAV 4 is like all of yours. It has the wiring harness in the bumper but there is no wiring for the relay AND the stalk wiring is lacking the grey wire. In fact, the stalk does not have any pins if you wanted to run your own grey wire.

Funny thing is, I see a fuse installed for the fog lights even though none of the wiring is there for them inside the passenger compartment.

I saw posts commenting on using the blue wire (#20) and the yellow wire (#11) and those do not work.

The wiring on the stalk is such that if ANY head light is on, the blue wire (#20) is grounded telling the body ECU to close 2 relays, one of which is the HEAD relay. If the #11 wire is NOT grounded, the low beams will be on. When the #11 wire IS grounded, the high beams come on. The #20 wire is always grounded even when the high or low beams are on.

I purchased the Kramer kit and it looks nice.

Can anyone suggest where to connect the red wire to the switch so that the fog lights only come on when low beams are on?

The Kramer is a positive switched setup. The relay undser the hood is the switch that operates the fog lights. Whenever power is applied to the white wire, the fog lights go on. Of course, the RAV is a negatively switched setup. Whenever a switch closes a grounding wire, THEN the lights go on. All positive wires are directly connected, in some manner, to the battery positive either directly or through the ACC for when the key is turned on.

Not sure if I have the relay socket taped out of the way. I would doubt it since the grey wire is not present on the steering wheel stalk.

Those of you showing a taped up connector, do you have the grey wire on the stalk?

best of luck,

Frank
 

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Hi everybody,
Is someone interested having the NAPA AR614 Relay for FREE? I bought it by napa store three weeks ago but could not use it cause my car lacks the needed relay wires to plug into, so I gonna use the "not oem style" setup.
 

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How to get OEM fog light action regardless of whether you have the grey wire

NOTE: Neither my dad nor I are electrical engineers BUT this works whether you do have the grey wire for installing fog lights or not.

This will have the fog lights turn on just like EOM fog lights do - only when the low beam headlights are on.

This will ONLY turn on the fog lights when the low beams are on, shut off automatically with the headlights and go off when the high beams are turned on and behave just like OEM fog lights. The only thing we could not do was get the fog light indicator to light on the dash but the switch has one so it was not needed.

this install is rather easy but here is some background first that may get a little complicated.

We looked at AllData for the headlight schematic. There are 2 wires coming from the Body ECU that control all 4 states for the headlights. These states are:

1. OFF
2. Daytime driving lights via the high beam bulbs wired in series
3. Low beams on only
4. High beams (wired in parallel) with the low beams on.

They use 2 wires to control 4 relays to get all 4 states. There is a LG (Light Green I believe) and a BR (brown I guess) wire. Depending on which wire is grounded will activate which relay(s). Some will activate more than one relay. To get the above states, this is what is done.

1. OFF - Both wires are NOT grounded
2. Daytime running lights - Only the LG wire is grounded
3. Low beams on only - Only the BR wire is grounded
4. High beams on (and low beams) - Both LG and BR are grounded

We decided to take advantage of this unique arrangement and in no way try to get involved with the data and data lines associated with the body ECU.

The attached schematic was developed to get OEM operation.

I have a 2009 Base 4 cyllinder 4WD RAV4. The wiring hardess did exist in the bumper but nothing to support it was found inside. No grey wire nor was there the fuse connector to drive the fog lights.

NONE of the wiring for the fogs was used from Toyota. I got the Kramer kit and ran that wire instead. It has a white wire that is passed into the car. In addition tothe white wire, 2 additional wires, one red and one black, were also added and passed through the firwall with the white.

What you will need:
1. Red and black wire
2. a diode (I used a 400V 3 AMP but that is way overkill. a 12V 1AMP would be enough)
3. spade connector that will fit the supplied Kramer relay
4. 1AMP fuse and fuse holder
5. tape and heat shrink
6. something to support the diode (circuit board or something non conductive)

Attached is the schematic we came up with. I will be posting photos of my install to follow.

All wire attachments are critical and must be followed to the letter. Each headlight is connected to various relays in a unique manner so do not alter what is done.

The wiring from the kit is used with one modification. the black wire spade is removed from the fog relay and the spade is taped off as it is. The fog light black wires connect here and still get connected to ground. A new black wire and spade is inserted with 2 black wires in it, one is brought into the car and the other goes to the RED wire of the PASSENGER SIDE HIGH BEAM LIGHT

The way this works is that it the switch and relay use very little current. To make sure the fog relay only works when the low beams are on, we tap power from the red wire at the RED WIRE AT THE DRIVER'S SIDE LOW BEAM.

To make the circuit prevent the fog light relay from closing when the high beams are on, we ground the relay to the RED wire of the PASSENGER SIDE HIGH BEAM LIGHT.

I will cover in more details with the following photos.
 

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The first thing I did was follow the install directions supplied in this thread and Kramer for mounting the fog lights. Remember to remove the battery ground, just in case. It is good practice when working on electrical stuff.

Next I ran the Kramer wiring to the fog lights and brought it up along side the battery on the driver's side.

I connected everything under the hood as described in the Kramer instructions. the fog lights are connected to the Kramer harness and the black wire is attached to ground and the red wire is attached to the positive terminal on the battery.

Then I located the red wires for the DRIVER'S SIDE LOW BEAM and the red wire for the PASSENGER's SIDE HIGH BEAM LIGHTs (see connectors in attached photos).

these are the ones we will be attaching to shortly once we prepare the relay with the new black wires.
 

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Next I removed the black wire spade connector from the relay socket on the Kramer harness. I also ran into the passenger compartment the white wire from the kit as well as an extra a red and a black wire through the firewall into the passenger compartment. These three wires will later be hooked up to the fog light switch on the dash so run accordingly. The spade with black wires that we pulled out from the fog light relay socket was taped off and the black wire with the ground connector was left attached to the body ground located next to the battery as described in the Kramer install instructions.
 

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Next, I attached a fuse holder with the 1AMP fast blow fuse in it to the RED WIRE OF THE DRIVER'S SIDE LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT. I solder all connections so be careful when stripping the wires as the wires for the headlights are thin. I taped up the wires adn reattached the low beam socket to the bulb.

This fuse holder is then connected to the RED wire going into the passenger compartment. I taped up the fuse holder to help prevent moisture from entering the fuse holder.
 

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I then ran a new BLACK wire to the RED WIRE on the PASSENGER SIDE HIGH BEAM headlight and soldered it on that. I ran the new black wire from the high beam to the fog light relay in preparation for connection.

The black wire from the PASSENGER SIDE HIGH BEAM is stripped and twisted with the new BLACK wire going into the passenger compartment (through the firewall) and a spade connector is put onto the combination of the two.

Once the new spade connector is attached, push it into the spot where the old black wire spade connector was. the original spade connector has a tab to prevent it from being pulled out. you will need to stick a small flat screwdriver or something to compress the tab to allow it to come out so you can insert the new wires.

this is what it looks like when completed.

I taped up the relay connector to help prevent moisture from entering and installed the relay into the connector.

All connections under the hood and in the car were soldered and taped up to help prevent moisture from entering.

At this time, all connections under the hood is done. No other connections will need to be made there. All headlight and fog light sockets are connected to the associated bulbs at this time.
 

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Once under the hood was done, I prepared the switch by knocking out the piece out of the dash where I was going to mount it. The Kramer switch has 3 wires coming from a green connector with the 2 red wires commoned to a single red wire.

I now prepared the diode. I did not want to put strain on the diode so I wanted to mount it on some circuit board material. you can use any non conductive material. I just happen to have some blank G-10 fiberglass board laying around so I drilled 4 holes in it and soldered the diode to a short length of wire on the ANODE (triangle base side). The CATHODE side (bar - diode from Radio Shack had a silver mark indicating this side) side is then soldered to the red wire coming from the fog light switch connector. This is a bit overkill but we wanted to make sure current can only flow to the switch from the Driver's low beam head light. I put a small length of wire on the anode side to make connecting to the red wire going through the firewall that we ran a bit easier.

I covered the entire diode with some heat shrink and tape.

The only section of the dash you need access to is to mount the switch. There is no need to open up the steering column with this method.
 

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The next part is easy. Just connect the red wire going through the firewall (that we ran) to the ANODE of the diode.

Connect the white wire of the switch (on the green connector) to the white wire going through the firewall(that we ran).

Connect the black wire of the switch (on the green connector) to the black wire going through the firewall (that we ran) and connect the green connector to the fog light switch

done!

you can see where I put on the daytime running lights (car on and the parking brake is disengaged), lowbeams on with fogs and then when I flip the stalk to high beams, the fogs go off.

Only when the low beams are on and the fog light switch is pressed will the indicator lamp in the fog light switch be on. Whenever the fogs are off (fog light switch is off, low beams are off or when high beams are on), the fog light switch indicator light will be off.

has been working like a charm for several weeks now with no issues.
 

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Fog Light Install - 06 Rav4 Sport

Thanks for the narrative on how to do this. I already have fog lights, but one was taken out by a rock and therefore I need to replace it.

I unfortunately purchased the fog light OEM from Toyota. $207.10 in Canada, so I called across the border and it was $163.08. I asked for a discount on the original price, and they said they could not do anything... then when I said it was only $163.08 across the border they all of a sudden said they could match it...

Anyways, thanks again for the post!
 

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Hello all! Haven't said much on the forums here but I finally got around to installing my aftermarket fog lights along with the auto-lock. I ran into an interesting setback that I should have expected. Before my install I checked the interior for the 15A fog light fuse and the gray wire - didn't feel like ripping into my front in quite yet and the interior panels snap right off. So to my delight everything appeared to be there, and the empty relay socket was wired! Fast forward to today I begin the install which should be a snap since I can use the stock setup after picking up the replay from NAPA. NOPE! I rip off the front bumper cover and find 0 wiring to support the fog lights.... My car apparently came half setup for fog lights - wth???

Well luckily I work on electronics so having no wiring diagrams and just a simple wiring harness that came with my kit I finally found a good wire to tap into to get my lights working, they just don't function like OEM ones. Which is fine unless my next inspection comes to bite me in the ass ( I hate MA for the record and cant wait to GTFO of this place )

I ended up tapping into a blue wire that runs to the rear of the vehicle for the tail lights. I also had to find a good place that was accessible to drill through the firewall. But in the end it really doesnt even look like it was installed after production.

TIP: There is a channel behind the actual bumper (the black metal bar running in front of the radiator) that you can hide your aftermarket wiring for the fog lights if you end up having to run your own.

Lastly was the auto lock, which was a breeze. I soldered my wires instead of t-tapping (I don't trust the connections) and set it up to lock when exiting park, and to unlock when entering park. My Rav is so much more polite now lol

Anyway, figured I'd toss my 2 cents in and offer my help to anyone who runs into my situation in the future. Most importantly I wanted to thank everyone who has already posted up about this install, it was still a great reference.
 

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hi all! new here on this forum. just bought my Rav 4 2007 model, used. is this guide works also on australian model? and, if I disconnect the +, do I have any problem with the stereo system? my previous car after changing the battery, i couldn't maket stereo to work becouse of security code, I called the dealer to help me. thanks in advance fo any answer
 

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is there any chance the find this wire without removing the front bumper? I already install the fog light, but I couldn't find any wire yet, but I didn't removed the bumper. please give me a hint about. i have a australian RAV 4 CV.
 

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is there any chance the find this wire without removing the front bumper? I already install the fog light, but I couldn't find any wire yet, but I didn't removed the bumper. please give me a hint about. i have a australian RAV 4 CV.

Yeah. Mine has the wire. you just need to remove the plastic screw and pull the wheel plastic back. If its wired it will look like this. I hooked up mine without even taking off bumper.

I still can not figure out the wiring :wall

I dont have the grey wire and I have searched and searched without finding the answer of how to hook switch up. If has a black for ground, red for power and white to go to lights. To use the OEM installed wire to the lights I have not idea without grey wire. There is no spot for the fog light relay and there is wiring to the fog light?? There must be a way to get around not having the grey wire but I have not found the answer. If you have the grey wire you should be good to go.

Unless someone has the OEM answer for a 2010 base without the relay and with no grey wire but has fog light wiring....
I most likely will just wire it without the OEM wiring.....Unless someone has the answer.
 

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i didn't start to do anything in dash board yet. I was still searching for the OEM harness for foglights. if I can't find anything without removing the bumper, I will take it out, and if the harness is not existing, I will run the additional harness. my model is 2007 Toyota RAV 4 CV (australian model) .
 
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