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Bypassing pre-existing wiring harness

Hey guys.

I just ordered the Trendgear yellow fog light kit and it comes with a connected wiring harness. Am I able to do the original method RiVoT wrote up without using the wiring harness? If so, how do I do that? It just looks like it'll be easier to install into the OEM harness like RiVoT explained in his original post vs. running everything through the firewall and connecting to the battery. Any help would be great!
 

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A little late to the game, but I can confirm that the Canadian 2011 Rav4 2.5L base (VIN# starts with 2) does not have the factory OEM wiring harness tucked aside for the fog lights.

From reading this entire thread, it looks like the US and Japanese models both have the factory wiring harness in place. Not sure why Canadian RAV4s are so different...

I guess I'll have to wait until summer for the more complicated install.

Thanks for the write up, OP :)
 

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Hi,

Is there any chance that you could make a guide how to wire the cable if using pre-wired cable .for 2018 rav4 hybrid .

Thanks
 

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Do we need to supply the screws separately?
The kit I ordered from eBay didn’t include any so I’m not sure if I’m missing parts
Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hey guys and gals. Sorry to bring this thread back up. I recently picked up a 2008 Rav4 Canada model. I travel a lot for work and decided to add some fog lights for the weather I always seem to be driving through. The vehicle has all the OEM wiring in place for a nice clean install. I have been using this thread along with other online resources and years of doing stuff like this. Not my first rodeo. Basically, I wouldn't be asking for help if my frustration level wasn't through the roof. :mad::wall

So the lights went in smoothly. Fuse was already in there. Relay went in fine. I can trigger the relay by jumping gray wire to ground. It works, lights work. The problem is the stupid switch. :shrug: I've fried 2 of them. The one that came with the kit was the wrong color. Regardless, it was good for experimenting. So, no matter how I hook it up I can't get full functionality. I have tried every possible configuration including the OP's wiring. This gave me fog lights, but also kept the switch on dim all the time. My gray wire and green wire have juice all the time and do the same thing. This is just not right in my book.

I've tried black wire to ground (replacement switch even labeled it as such) I'm going to call this wire 1 as my replacement switch used different colors but was laid out the same internally.
2 center wires I found power the 2 switch led's. Out of desperation I found a switched power source outside of what has been mentioned in this thread. This caused both lights to light up.
So, logically I would guess that the 2nd or 4th wire would trip the relay and light up the "on light", but I just doesn't seem to want to work that way. At this point I would be dang happy if I could just get the lights to work even without switch illumination. I did try an old 3 prong switch I had laying around and was able to make it work just fine. I would just prefer the factory look if possible.

The vehicles wiring seems spot on to everything in this thread, but it sure isn't acting the same.

Any help is much appreciated.
 

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Hey guys and gals. Sorry to bring this thread back up. I recently picked up a 2008 Rav4 Canada model. I travel a lot for work and decided to add some fog lights for the weather I always seem to be driving through. The vehicle has all the OEM wiring in place for a nice clean install. I have been using this thread along with other online resources and years of doing stuff like this. Not my first rodeo. Basically, I wouldn't be asking for help if my frustration level wasn't through the roof. :mad::wall

So the lights went in smoothly. Fuse was already in there. Relay went in fine. I can trigger the relay by jumping gray wire to ground. It works, lights work. The problem is the stupid switch. :shrug: I've fried 2 of them. The one that came with the kit was the wrong color. Regardless, it was good for experimenting. So, no matter how I hook it up I can't get full functionality. I have tried every possible configuration including the OP's wiring. This gave me fog lights, but also kept the switch on dim all the time. My gray wire and green wire have juice all the time and do the same thing. This is just not right in my book.

I've tried black wire to ground (replacement switch even labeled it as such) I'm going to call this wire 1 as my replacement switch used different colors but was laid out the same internally.
2 center wires I found power the 2 switch led's. Out of desperation I found a switched power source outside of what has been mentioned in this thread. This caused both lights to light up.
So, logically I would guess that the 2nd or 4th wire would trip the relay and light up the "on light", but I just doesn't seem to want to work that way. At this point I would be dang happy if I could just get the lights to work even without switch illumination. I did try an old 3 prong switch I had laying around and was able to make it work just fine. I would just prefer the factory look if possible.

The vehicles wiring seems spot on to everything in this thread, but it sure isn't acting the same.

Any help is much appreciated.
The part in the first post that gets me is that "the 2 red wires are wired together for ground". Red wires are never ground. I suggest finding a 12 volt source and testing the button. 2 wires should be for the switch. Continuity with the switch on and not with it off. 2 others wires for the illumination.

i have been meaning to install one of these fog light kits. So interested in your outcome.
 

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:rolleyes: Madness, just madness I say. Anyway, here it goes.
Apparently I don't have enough posts to post images or links. So I'll try to explain the best that I can.

Again, I have a Canada version 2008 Rav4. Whether anything is different or not I'm not sure, but the wiring suggested by the OP wasn't working for me at all. A couple of things that were causing issues for me. Was that the gray wire and the wires at the dimmer switch are hot all the time. This would cause the switch to illuminate even when the key was off.

I can't confirm, but I think some of the issue, at least I was having. Was that the aftermarket switch was intended to work with aftermarket wiring. It was designed to send power rather than provide a switch to ground. Which is what we have to do when tapping into the gray wire. Just speculating.

So my switch had different colors and were labeled. Although internally they appear to be the same switch. I will try to lay this out the best I can.

My switch
Black position 1 Ground
Red position 2 Acc+ this wire provides illumination to the fog light symbol in the switch
Blue position 3 to fog lights or relay ( in this case ground)
Yellow position 4 connect from 12v power source (gray wire)

So switch that comes with the kit
Black position 1 Still ground :wink
Red position 2 Acc+ this wire provides illumination to the fog light symbol in the switch
Yellow position 3 to fog lights or relay ( in this case ground)
red position 4 Connect from 12v power source. (gray wire)

Wire 1 is ground, just accept it lol :wink
Wire 2 is switch illumination. I used an "add a circuit" and connected this to a open switched position in the fuse panel.

Here is where it gets a little iffy. Wire 4 technically wants to light up the led in the switch indicating the fog lights are on. However, wires 3 and 4 are actually the only switched wires. The ground is for switch illumination only. So we need to get the gray wire to ground without illuminating the switch. I was able to do that by taking wire 3 to ground and wire 4 to the gray wire. Everything functions except the led telling you the switch is on, but the light in the dash does tell you that anyway. Wired in this fashion the switch illuminates with the key "on".

So I grounded wires 1 & 3 down by the kick panel. There is already an existing ground junction there. Just add to it.

Obviously I'm not saying this is the end all be all way to wire your switch. I just wanted to add another option in hopes that this may help someone else who may be struggling with getting their switch wired in.
 

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Ok guys. I'm late to the party, having only purchased a 2010 Base a couple of weeks ago. I started reading this lonnnggg stickie, and was very impressed, especially when I saw fog light wiring tied up behind the bumper. I got so excited tthat I bought a trendgear kit on ebay and started installing, beginning with the lights. Easily done from underneath with only loosening the splashguard. I knew that I would be finished shortly as I had in hand my new relay and had prepped the switch wiring and popped out the switch blank. Then disaster struck: Japan made, no wiring under dash to support this project. Back to the drawing board - I read the rest of the posts laying out the same problem.
So, before I either put the original blanks back in, or start from square one with the trendgear kit - has anyone come up with a good way to overcome the missing wiring without taking the front end apart again and running all new wiring?
Thanks.

Joe
 

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Ok guys. I'm late to the party, having only purchased a 2010 Base a couple of weeks ago. I started reading this lonnnggg stickie, and was very impressed, especially when I saw fog light wiring tied up behind the bumper. I got so excited tthat I bought a trendgear kit on ebay and started installing, beginning with the lights. Easily done from underneath with only loosening the splashguard. I knew that I would be finished shortly as I had in hand my new relay and had prepped the switch wiring and popped out the switch blank. Then disaster struck: Japan made, no wiring under dash to support this project. Back to the drawing board - I read the rest of the posts laying out the same problem.
So, before I either put the original blanks back in, or start from square one with the trendgear kit - has anyone come up with a good way to overcome the missing wiring without taking the front end apart again and running all new wiring?
Thanks.

Joe
A 2010 ehh. i thought the gutted the wires in 2012. On of the reasons that I have not tackeled the job yet. Please post the outcoming when you finish this project.
 

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Okk guys. I have done the install. since the underdash wiring was missing from my Japan made 2010 Base model, I took the path of least resistance and installed the complete kit from trendgear, purchased on ebay. It is a pretty straight forward kit, although somewhat universal. No photos here because I am both techno challenged (per my grown kids) and I did nothing differently or "new". I just started at the lights and worked back, running the harness across the front crossmember and securing everything with zip ties. I ended up with a little excess length that I doubled up and zip tied next to the battery. Under the dash, I used an unused and unlabeled fuse location that is hot whenever the key is on, so if I ever neglect to shut the fogs off, I should escape the dreaded dead battery. Also, this way, I can have them on regardless of light switch or dimmer switch positions. My switch harness had 2 reds hooked together, a yellow and and a black. Red to hot gave illuminated the switch and also gives additional visual indicator when the switch is on. Black to ground and yellow to the underhool wiring, being the switched hot feed for the relay. Easy and straight forward. Then getting the yellow through the firewall was the question but not a problem. I went through next to the heater hoses. No drill. everything works well. I do still need to aim them.
Pardon me for rambling. I am sometimes less than concise and have been accused of being verbose.

Joe
 

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Can anyone confirm if the grey wire underneath the steering wheel triggers the fog light indicator on the dash if it's grounded or exposed to +12V? Reading through all the posts in this thread has given mixed opinions.

Also, is it necessary to have a relay in the factory location just to have the indicator light to turn on? I successfully installed using the aftermarket harness with power tapped from the tail light fuse, but I'd like to improve this setup by also have the fog light indicator on the dash turn on.
 

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Can anyone confirm if the grey wire underneath the steering wheel triggers the fog light indicator on the dash if it's grounded or exposed to +12V? Reading through all the posts in this thread has given mixed opinions.

Also, is it necessary to have a relay in the factory location just to have the indicator light to turn on? I successfully installed using the aftermarket harness with power tapped from the tail light fuse, but I'd like to improve this setup by also have the fog light indicator on the dash turn on.
I took the time to understand the RAV4 2007 electrical wiring diagram and it looks like the entire fog light circuit (and most other circuits within the car) is negative switched. As a result, this means that the grey wire under the steering wheel must be grounded in order for the dash indicator to turn on. When grounded, this gray wire triggers the main body ECU to switch the fog lamp relay which in turn provides power to the fog lamps when using the OEM harness.

For my particular situation, because the non-OEM wiring harness is positive switched (i.e. +12V on the red wire, GND on the black wire, and switched +12V on the remaining blue wire), I'll need to convert the positive output to a negative output in order to get the fog lamp dash indicator light to turn on. This can be done with a relay wired as indicated below (image credit to the12volt.ca):





By using the above diagram, the blue switched +12V can be wired into pin 86 and the gray wire can be wired into pin 87. Pins 30 and 85 can be grounded to the grounding bolt near the driver's side foot well. By doing this, when +12V is applied to pin 86, pins 87, 30, and 85 are all shorted to ground thus shorting the gray wire to ground when the fog lamp switched is pressed. Pin 87a can remain disconnected (thus forming an open circuit) which is what the gray wire will be normally connected to when the fog light switch is not pressed.

This seems like a lot of work just to get a dash indicator to illuminate. Since the fog light switch already illuminates when the fog lights are on, I think i'll leave it here. Hopefully this information helps anyone else who wants to get the dash indicator to illuminate when using the non-OEM wiring harness.
 

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Can anyone upload the pictures back. Im trying to see where the OEM relay location is, or wether or not im missing a wire harness under the dash.
 

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Great post and great info ! My kit came with 2x Red cables, 1x white cable, and 1x black cable. The White cable is the trigger pass-thru cable that send signal to the relay to turn on the fog lights. The red next to the black is for the switch LED light. It doesn't matter what color my cables are because my 2012 RAV4 Base doesn't come with any fog light connectors behind the bumper. My VIN starts with 2 which is Canadian made. I just use the fog light harness that came with the fog lights and tab the Red wire (which becomes two red wires) into the green wire of the fog light switch bundled with the dash dimming harness.
 

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OK, this is still a work in progress. i would like input / feedback from the community to help refine the documentation 😉 TIA!

And of course - be forewarned: i do not work for Toyota, am not a mechanic by profession, and should not be considered an authority on any of the systems dealt with in this write-up - so if you do this, it's at your own risk!

Much of the info and diagrams came from this document: http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com/aimuploads/{B1251A3E-5AB7-7489-25D5-AC4E011E5AB7}/Front fog lamp kit LHD RHD PZ457-X0511-00 AIM 000 539-1.pdf

Project: Add Fog Lights to RAV4.3 using OEM Wiring (USA)
  • Advantages: Simple installation, OEM quality setup, factory behavior - fogs only operate if low-beams are on, plus dash indicator light functions as designed:
  • Potential Disadvantages: factory behavior - if you want the fogs on w/o the low-beams, sorry! and may be more money - OEM relay is ~$50, but NAPA one is only $9...
Parts Used:
  • Ebay OEM Style Fog Light Kit 06+ RAV4: $105 shipped, got mine from
    Seller:Trendgear but at least 1 other seller carries these; at least with this kit the panel switch fits perfectly into the 06+ knockout
  • Toyota Relay: P/N 90080-87026, got it for $48.50 shipped from Greentree Toyota in CT
    OR get a compatible relay for about $8 from NAPA Auto Parts Store, part # is AR614 - thanks to Bigal8553 for this find!
  • Misc: Wire Tap Splice(s) and other wiring tools, 10mm socket & ratchet, screwdriver, etc.
Electronics:

Disconnect the battery - i'm told that's important when installing the relay.
Remove the instrument lower panel (undo 2 screws and pull), fuse box cover, then the steering column lower cover. be careful removing the steering column cover, as the clips can break easily.

While you're down there, check the instrument panel fuse box to make sure you already have a 15amp fuse in spot #12, marked "FR FOG 15 A"
insert the new relay:
before:

After:

Locate the wiring harness for the headlight/turn signal lever, found on the left side of the steering column. when this line is connected to a ground, the fogs are turned on. the line is at pin 4 and is a grey wire.

Note: with my ebay fog kit, an OEM style knockout fog switch was included. you can use any automotive switch you want to. mine included an indicator light, which i wired similarly to the euro instructions, which produced a dim light similar to the window control lights. since this OEM method utilizes the fog indicator in the gauge panel, this is not a major issue.
On my ebay switch, it seems the 2 red leads were wired together as ground, the yellow was the main circuit (which got wired into the harness) and the black was for the switch illumination. lie your switch on it's side with the harness connected and see if your scheme matches:

To prep the switch harness for use, remove the wire loom and cut the wires about 2-3 feet from the switch connector, making sure to cut past the point at which the 2 red wires are spliced together.
Tap into the grey fog wire with a Tap Splice, a red 22-18 AWG is best, and insert one end of your fog on/off switch to the circuit. (if your ebay wiring is like mine, this will be the Red wire on the end of the connector.) make sure to zip-tie and secure the wiring cleanly along the OEM wiring path.
Connect the other lead from the switch to a good ground point. (if your ebay wiring is like mine, this will be the Yellow wire.) there's a good grounding spot to the bottom left of the driver's foot-well, just use a self-tapping screw.
If your switch has an illumination light like the ebay, splice the illumination wire into the Green wire on the back of the dash dimmer knockout switch. (if your ebay wiring is like mine, this will be the remaining black wire.)
Install switch in dash and reinstall the previously removed panels.
At this point you have a complete OEM fog wiring setup! if you wanted to slap bulbs on the OEM wiring and reconnect the battery to test, it should all work.

Physical Install:

Pop and prop the hood, and remove this thing - what is it called? You can use a flat head instead of the special tool for the 1 fastener, the other 8 come out real easy...


Unscrew the 2 rubber-shielded bolts and 1 fastener at the top of the front end:


To be safe you may want to use painters tape or similar to protect from scratches as shown. after removing the side fasteners, push back the wheel well pieces to reveal the 10mm bolt (on each side) holding the sides to the top (which were not in the European instructions :? )


Undo the 8 bottom bolts with your 10mm socket, noting for later that the 2 outermost bolts are longer (something i of course didn't notice until later):


Carefully unclip the front end at the side panels and remove the front end, being cautious not to scratch at the sides. it can be done by 1 person without issue. make sure to set it down somewhere it won't get scratched!




Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding in each fog blank:




Add the fog light brackets and bolt them in:


Add the fog lights by sliding the tabs in the inner side and screwing them in at the outer side, as shown. mine had no pre-drilled holes but the screws self-tapped - don't over-tighten!


Unwrap the factory fog light wiring:


Make sure the H11 bulbs are installed in the fog light housings, bring the front end close to the vehicle, and connect the OEM fog light wiring.
Connect the battery and make sure your fogs work! remember to turn on your low beams, then check your on/off functionality.
If everything works, put the front end back in place, snap in the sides, and replace the top fasteners.
I have not tested this for sure, but this is probably the point at which you want to check the aim of the fogs. (mine are unintentionally aimed upwards as of the install, i have yet to aim them) turn the adjustment screw clockwise to aim higher, counter-clockwise to lower:


I'm guessing i'll have to find a right-angle phillips head or try a stubby screwdriver...
Re-attach the remaining bolts, fasteners, etc. by reversing the removal steps.
I think that's it! please, i appreciate any comments / corrections / refinements anyone has for this write-up!

Thanks! 😉

EDITED 11/25/08: updated wiring recommendations based on RUV's research/discoveries - thanks!
Thank you for this write up! Do you have any idea why your pictures aren’t showing up? I’m trying to follow but a but confused on how and what wires to connect my switch too on the interior of the vehicle. I might have purchased a different switch from you.

this is the one I purchased from Amazon:


Any help you can offer is appreciated.
 

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OK, this is still a work in progress. i would like input / feedback from the community to help refine the documentation 😉 TIA!

And of course - be forewarned: i do not work for Toyota, am not a mechanic by profession, and should not be considered an authority on any of the systems dealt with in this write-up - so if you do this, it's at your own risk!

Much of the info and diagrams came from this document: http://techdoc.toyota-europe.com/aimuploads/{B1251A3E-5AB7-7489-25D5-AC4E011E5AB7}/Front fog lamp kit LHD RHD PZ457-X0511-00 AIM 000 539-1.pdf

Project: Add Fog Lights to RAV4.3 using OEM Wiring (USA)
  • Advantages: Simple installation, OEM quality setup, factory behavior - fogs only operate if low-beams are on, plus dash indicator light functions as designed:
  • Potential Disadvantages: factory behavior - if you want the fogs on w/o the low-beams, sorry! and may be more money - OEM relay is ~$50, but NAPA one is only $9...
Parts Used:
  • Ebay OEM Style Fog Light Kit 06+ RAV4: $105 shipped, got mine from
    Seller:Trendgear but at least 1 other seller carries these; at least with this kit the panel switch fits perfectly into the 06+ knockout
  • Toyota Relay: P/N 90080-87026, got it for $48.50 shipped from Greentree Toyota in CT
    OR get a compatible relay for about $8 from NAPA Auto Parts Store, part # is AR614 - thanks to Bigal8553 for this find!
  • Misc: Wire Tap Splice(s) and other wiring tools, 10mm socket & ratchet, screwdriver, etc.
Electronics:

Disconnect the battery - i'm told that's important when installing the relay.
Remove the instrument lower panel (undo 2 screws and pull), fuse box cover, then the steering column lower cover. be careful removing the steering column cover, as the clips can break easily.

While you're down there, check the instrument panel fuse box to make sure you already have a 15amp fuse in spot #12, marked "FR FOG 15 A"
insert the new relay:
before:

After:

Locate the wiring harness for the headlight/turn signal lever, found on the left side of the steering column. when this line is connected to a ground, the fogs are turned on. the line is at pin 4 and is a grey wire.

Note: with my ebay fog kit, an OEM style knockout fog switch was included. you can use any automotive switch you want to. mine included an indicator light, which i wired similarly to the euro instructions, which produced a dim light similar to the window control lights. since this OEM method utilizes the fog indicator in the gauge panel, this is not a major issue.
On my ebay switch, it seems the 2 red leads were wired together as ground, the yellow was the main circuit (which got wired into the harness) and the black was for the switch illumination. lie your switch on it's side with the harness connected and see if your scheme matches:

To prep the switch harness for use, remove the wire loom and cut the wires about 2-3 feet from the switch connector, making sure to cut past the point at which the 2 red wires are spliced together.
Tap into the grey fog wire with a Tap Splice, a red 22-18 AWG is best, and insert one end of your fog on/off switch to the circuit. (if your ebay wiring is like mine, this will be the Red wire on the end of the connector.) make sure to zip-tie and secure the wiring cleanly along the OEM wiring path.
Connect the other lead from the switch to a good ground point. (if your ebay wiring is like mine, this will be the Yellow wire.) there's a good grounding spot to the bottom left of the driver's foot-well, just use a self-tapping screw.
If your switch has an illumination light like the ebay, splice the illumination wire into the Green wire on the back of the dash dimmer knockout switch. (if your ebay wiring is like mine, this will be the remaining black wire.)
Install switch in dash and reinstall the previously removed panels.
At this point you have a complete OEM fog wiring setup! if you wanted to slap bulbs on the OEM wiring and reconnect the battery to test, it should all work.

Physical Install:

Pop and prop the hood, and remove this thing - what is it called? You can use a flat head instead of the special tool for the 1 fastener, the other 8 come out real easy...


Unscrew the 2 rubber-shielded bolts and 1 fastener at the top of the front end:


To be safe you may want to use painters tape or similar to protect from scratches as shown. after removing the side fasteners, push back the wheel well pieces to reveal the 10mm bolt (on each side) holding the sides to the top (which were not in the European instructions :? )


Undo the 8 bottom bolts with your 10mm socket, noting for later that the 2 outermost bolts are longer (something i of course didn't notice until later):


Carefully unclip the front end at the side panels and remove the front end, being cautious not to scratch at the sides. it can be done by 1 person without issue. make sure to set it down somewhere it won't get scratched!




Remove the 3 10mm bolts holding in each fog blank:




Add the fog light brackets and bolt them in:


Add the fog lights by sliding the tabs in the inner side and screwing them in at the outer side, as shown. mine had no pre-drilled holes but the screws self-tapped - don't over-tighten!


Unwrap the factory fog light wiring:


Make sure the H11 bulbs are installed in the fog light housings, bring the front end close to the vehicle, and connect the OEM fog light wiring.
Connect the battery and make sure your fogs work! remember to turn on your low beams, then check your on/off functionality.
If everything works, put the front end back in place, snap in the sides, and replace the top fasteners.
I have not tested this for sure, but this is probably the point at which you want to check the aim of the fogs. (mine are unintentionally aimed upwards as of the install, i have yet to aim them) turn the adjustment screw clockwise to aim higher, counter-clockwise to lower:


I'm guessing i'll have to find a right-angle phillips head or try a stubby screwdriver...
Re-attach the remaining bolts, fasteners, etc. by reversing the removal steps.
I think that's it! please, i appreciate any comments / corrections / refinements anyone has for this write-up!

Thanks! 😉

EDITED 11/25/08: updated wiring recommendations based on RUV's research/discoveries - thanks!
where does the relay go? I can’t seem to see any photosthat you uploaded so it’s making it a bit hard to follow. 😐
 
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