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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)

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Really nice write-ups. These will be a project for this spring/summer.
 

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Really well done. Nice pictures. Just 2 things:

1. I would really recommend putting some medium strength thread locker (blue Loctite) on those bolt threads. They take very low torque (about 80 inch pounds, I think) if you are using the OEM cork gaskets and the bolts will surely loosen up down the road
2. Always choose the cork gasket. The rubber gaskets tend to leak in this application, even if you tighten the bolts to 120 inch pounds.

Let us know if there is any leak in a few weeks since you did use the rubber gasket and no loctite. I hope you'll be fine though.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
thanks for the input! i'll take a look and see, but I'm not worried at this point.
 

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Nice work, I'll bookmark this one for sure. Good photos, makes it less scary to do myself. I think I'm with Vanib, will get the cork gasket and Toyota filter for the tranny, as this will probably be a one and done with my 2009. I do like your thorough procedure--dropping the pan, change filter and then flush, though I have done a series of drain and refills to this point.

Regarding the other maintenances you posted, one suggestion for the rear diff service: I noticed after filling it up while elevated on the jack stands, when I lowered it to ground level, some additional fluid ran out. So if I had capped the fill bolt while elevated, it might have been over-filled, as I believe the spec is to check while level. So I'd recco fill as you desribed, then lower off the stand. With the gen 4.3, it is still possible to scootch under with the car while completely on the ground just to finish off tightening the fill bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
great point about the rear diff - it's tricky filling them with ramps; i.e., my evo's rear diff drain is on the bottom, so it all comes out - on top of that, I have a sight glass that lets me see how filled it is. for the transmissions that have fill and drain on one side, I actually lift and lower one side to get all the fluid out. then I fill it with one side lifted so I can overfill the trans and t-case (they need it).


definitely with the rear on ramps it'll be difficult to get all the fluid out, compared to if all 4 corners were on stands. I'm not sure how the rav4s are but the evos transfer cases almost need to be 'overfilled' - considering jacking the passenger's side to add some more.
 

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Kyoo, I really appreciate the hard work you did in providing these how to's. BUT, I wish you would post them as well as the photos in a separate thread, that way when "r56hs.com" goes away, the information will still be available here on R4W. What has happened many, many times in the past is a great post like yours will have dead links a few years down the line and members are screaming "What happened to the links?" and "I can't view the pictures!"
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Junebug -


Ironically I put it on my site because I didn't trust the forums to store my data -- I have no control over what's kept up or pulled down, and little notice if it happens. That said, I'll be happy to update the first post with the how-to itself in the body
 

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Hi kyoo, just one small query. I can't quite make out how you used a hose only, and not a hose and pipe fitting, like I did? Because the return line hose (on mine) would be very hard to connect to another hose, without using the small piece of copper pipe.
Does your V6 have a drain spigot?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi kyoo, just one small query. I can't quite make out how you used a hose only, and not a hose and pipe fitting, like I did? Because the return line hose (on mine) would be very hard to connect to another hose, without using the small piece of copper pipe.
Does your V6 have a drain spigot?


Bah,


I just stuck the hose into the return line, and zip tied it tight so it wouldn't fall out. alternatively I think if you put the clamp over the portion where the hose is inside it'll hold it tight enough
 
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