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Hi all,

I know a lot of good threads have been killed over the years (a lot due to pictures not working thru the free photo hosting sites negating sharing of pictures) so I'm posting up a new thread on how to do a spark plug install on my 2007 Rav4 3.5L V6 AWD suv.

My spark plugs had 103K on them when I changed them out. They looked worn but not horrible. All the plugs came out ok, I took them all out while the vehicle had been run recently so it was still warm.

I can only upload 10 images for the thread, but I took more 36 total images, they are all located at: https://ibb.co/album/kHeR0a (free hosting site imgbb.com quick link)


Tools:
Some good light sources to see
10mm & 12mm sockets
small and long 3/8" extension
HW5 hex bit socket (got from home depot)
3/8 ratchet
14mm spark plug socket (preferred w/ magnetic holder inside socket)

1.) Remove plastic engine cover



2.) Remove the 10mm bolts holding on the first three ignition coils, and un-clip the ignition coils by pressing down on the ends of the connectors.



3.) Remove all 3 old spark plugs. Use some anti-seize or equivalent lubricant on some of the new spark plug threads before installing in the engine. Make sure the gap is correct if it's not already preset from the manufacturer.



4.) Reinstall the new spark plugs and tighten down with the 3/8" rachet and 14mm spark plug socket after hand threading the new plugs in until they are snug. Then do final tighten with the ratchet.

5.) Mark the 4 vacuum lines if you wish, there is 1 very small vacuum line going from the engine air intake box to the front of the intake manifold, 1 large vacuum from the PVC valve cover to the top right of the intake manifold, 1 large one with a small wire clamp going to the air intake duct, and 1 medium vacuum line going straight to the throttle body. I just marked with tape each vacuum line and the connect point with #1 thru #4 using a pen/marker to make it dummy proof (can't forget with white tape there to hook one back up). Remove all listed lines at the point where they connect to the intake manifold, air intake duct, and throttle body, push them out of the way.



6.) On the intake manifold there is a 10mm nut on either end, and 4 hex bit bolts in between. before you remove those bolts there is one 12mm intake manifold bracket bolt holding the manifold on securely on either far end back side of the intake manifold. Use a stubby wrench or a 3/8" ratchet with small extension on a 12mm socket to remove these first. Also on the passenger top side of intake manifold, there is a electrical connector to unclip.



7.) After removing the two 12 mm bolts (see above two pictures), remove the hex bolts on the intake manifold, and the 10mm nut on either end of the intake manifold.



8.) Loosen the two worm clamps holding the air intake duct to the air filter box and the throttle body. Also, I removed the 4 10mm bolts holding the throttle body on (if you remove these bolts first you can get access to one of the 12mm intake manifold bracket bolts better (the one on driver's side) as well as clean out your TB while your in there changing the plugs. I bought some CRC throttle body cleaner on amazon for a good price.

9.) Remove the air intake ducting provided you loosened the worm clamps enough. Push the throttle body down out of the way a bit if you removed it from the intake manifold. Pull the intake manifold UP and towards you. The brake booster vacuum line is still connected, I just tipped the manifold over on the battery and air filter box on top and left it there.



10.) Wipe the intake manifold rubber gasket mating flange both on the manifold itself and the engine side to ensure a clean seal, and place a towel over top to avoid dropping tools in your motor!




11.) Now that the intake manifold is out of the way, you just need to remove the three 10mm bolts holding each of the rear ignition coils on. Unclip or pull the ignition coils out of the way to remove the last three spark plugs. The ignition coil on the far drivers side needs to be un-clipped due to short wiring, so don't force that one by not un-clipping that particular connector.

12.) Don't forget to also check the spark plug gaps if necessary and lubricate the threads with anti-seize. Snug down the spark plugs by hand before tighening the spark plugs with ratchet and 14mm spark plug socket. Remember, the plugs are tightening down on an alumimum head, a tight snug feel with the ratchet is plenty, don't go crazy!

13.) Reinstall the ignition coils, re-clip all connections, tighten the three 10mm bolts down the ignition coils on.

14.) Reinstall the intake manifold (Make sure the passenger intake manifold bracket there is wiring that can get in the way, make sure that the bracket goes under the wiring there or it won't seat properly on the engine.

15.) Hand thread the two 10mm nuts and the hw5 hex sockets that hold the intake manifold on. Snug down securely with the ratchet.

16.) Re-install the 12 mm intake manifold bolt on either back side of the intake manifold (tighten those down good), re-install the throttle body (TB) if you removed, hand screw the four 10mm bolts back in and tighten down securely. The picture below was some of the gunky oil build up on the throttle body from 103,000 miles. I'd suggest you clean your throttle body also, as well as the throttle plate. I sprayed the TB spray cleaner on a rag, then wiped it out instead of drenching the TB with spray.



17.) Install the air intake duct and tighten down the two 10mm worm clamps on it, doesn't have to be super tight.

18.) Install the four vacuum lines and some have easy wire clamps you can use your hands to reinstall them, no pliers needed.



Double check all the bolts and vacuum lines before putting the engine cover back on. Your done now!

This was my first time doing this, it took me an hour and a half in my garage, not too bad. I recommend getting your spark plug parts from rock auto.com they have cheap parts if you're not needing them the same day!!
 

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Discussion Starter #2
ADDITIONAL IMAGES

I have red markered a few key pictures where some bolts, connectors, vacuum lines are for further clarity. As well as added a few extra pictures.














 

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Your Humble Administrator
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Thank you very much for this, I know it was a lot of hard work. You can create photo albums on your user profile page, and upload all your photos there. Unlike those free photo hosting sites, they will stay with RAV4World for as long as it's around.
 

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Not that it actually matters for this job description but the large black plastic part he calls the manifold is actually the intake plenum. The intake manifold is the aluminum part with the six holes below the plenum. Fortunately you don't have to remove it unless you drop something into it. Do not do that!

I changed my rear coils & plugs the same way but have seen posts saying the rear plugs can be changed w/o removing the plenum. It's a by-feel & mirror job at the expert level but is much quicker with enough patience.
 

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Great post! A shop was looking to charge me 220 for this job not including the spark plugs! Looks simple enough, to tackle for a weekend project. This should be stickied
 

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Check if 90919-01247 fit your model.
Thanks for your reply! I can see I should have been more clear.

I read in a thread (can't find it now) the OEM plugs were Denso plugs. What I meant to ask was the manufacturer part number so I could get them at my local auto parts.

Jeff
 

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Thanks for posting this up. I just got through replacing the plugs in my vehicle. I used the OEM Denso plugs for the project. These required a 5/8 Spark plug socket instead of a 14mm, though.

It also took me a little longer than and hour and a half to complete this. I imagine if I had really been in a hurry, I could have done it faster, but I like to take my time when I'm doing stuff like this.

Jeff
 

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Thanks for the great article. I will tackle this in the near future. The offical manual says you have to remove the cowl...your method seems much easier. The dealer wants 700$ to do this job.
 

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Hi all,

I know a lot of good threads have been killed over the years (a lot due to pictures not working thru the free photo hosting sites negating sharing of pictures) so I'm posting up a new thread on how to do a spark plug install on my 2007 Rav4 3.5L V6 AWD suv.

My spark plugs had 103K on them when I changed them out. They looked worn but not horrible. All the plugs came out ok, I took them all out while the vehicle had been run recently so it was still warm.

I can only upload 10 images for the thread, but I took more 36 total images, they are all located at: https://ibb.co/album/kHeR0a (free hosting site imgbb.com quick link)


Tools:
Some good light sources to see
10mm & 12mm sockets
small and long 3/8" extension
HW5 hex bit socket (got from home depot)
3/8 ratchet
14mm spark plug socket (preferred w/ magnetic holder inside socket)

1.) Remove plastic engine cover



2.) Remove the 10mm bolts holding on the first three ignition coils, and un-clip the ignition coils by pressing down on the ends of the connectors.



3.) Remove all 3 old spark plugs. Use some anti-seize or equivalent lubricant on some of the new spark plug threads before installing in the engine. Make sure the gap is correct if it's not already preset from the manufacturer.



4.) Reinstall the new spark plugs and tighten down with the 3/8" rachet and 14mm spark plug socket after hand threading the new plugs in until they are snug. Then do final tighten with the ratchet.

5.) Mark the 4 vacuum lines if you wish, there is 1 very small vacuum line going from the engine air intake box to the front of the intake manifold, 1 large vacuum from the PVC valve cover to the top right of the intake manifold, 1 large one with a small wire clamp going to the air intake duct, and 1 medium vacuum line going straight to the throttle body. I just marked with tape each vacuum line and the connect point with #1 thru #4 using a pen/marker to make it dummy proof (can't forget with white tape there to hook one back up). Remove all listed lines at the point where they connect to the intake manifold, air intake duct, and throttle body, push them out of the way.



6.) On the intake manifold there is a 10mm nut on either end, and 4 hex bit bolts in between. before you remove those bolts there is one 12mm intake manifold bracket bolt holding the manifold on securely on either far end back side of the intake manifold. Use a stubby wrench or a 3/8" ratchet with small extension on a 12mm socket to remove these first. Also on the passenger top side of intake manifold, there is a electrical connector to unclip.



7.) After removing the two 12 mm bolts (see above two pictures), remove the hex bolts on the intake manifold, and the 10mm nut on either end of the intake manifold.



8.) Loosen the two worm clamps holding the air intake duct to the air filter box and the throttle body. Also, I removed the 4 10mm bolts holding the throttle body on (if you remove these bolts first you can get access to one of the 12mm intake manifold bracket bolts better (the one on driver's side) as well as clean out your TB while your in there changing the plugs. I bought some CRC throttle body cleaner on amazon for a good price.

9.) Remove the air intake ducting provided you loosened the worm clamps enough. Push the throttle body down out of the way a bit if you removed it from the intake manifold. Pull the intake manifold UP and towards you. The brake booster vacuum line is still connected, I just tipped the manifold over on the battery and air filter box on top and left it there.



10.) Wipe the intake manifold rubber gasket mating flange both on the manifold itself and the engine side to ensure a clean seal, and place a towel over top to avoid dropping tools in your motor!




11.) Now that the intake manifold is out of the way, you just need to remove the three 10mm bolts holding each of the rear ignition coils on. Unclip or pull the ignition coils out of the way to remove the last three spark plugs. The ignition coil on the far drivers side needs to be un-clipped due to short wiring, so don't force that one by not un-clipping that particular connector.

12.) Don't forget to also check the spark plug gaps if necessary and lubricate the threads with anti-seize. Snug down the spark plugs by hand before tighening the spark plugs with ratchet and 14mm spark plug socket. Remember, the plugs are tightening down on an alumimum head, a tight snug feel with the ratchet is plenty, don't go crazy!

13.) Reinstall the ignition coils, re-clip all connections, tighten the three 10mm bolts down the ignition coils on.

14.) Reinstall the intake manifold (Make sure the passenger intake manifold bracket there is wiring that can get in the way, make sure that the bracket goes under the wiring there or it won't seat properly on the engine.

15.) Hand thread the two 10mm nuts and the hw5 hex sockets that hold the intake manifold on. Snug down securely with the ratchet.

16.) Re-install the 12 mm intake manifold bolt on either back side of the intake manifold (tighten those down good), re-install the throttle body (TB) if you removed, hand screw the four 10mm bolts back in and tighten down securely. The picture below was some of the gunky oil build up on the throttle body from 103,000 miles. I'd suggest you clean your throttle body also, as well as the throttle plate. I sprayed the TB spray cleaner on a rag, then wiped it out instead of drenching the TB with spray.



17.) Install the air intake duct and tighten down the two 10mm worm clamps on it, doesn't have to be super tight.

18.) Install the four vacuum lines and some have easy wire clamps you can use your hands to reinstall them, no pliers needed.



Double check all the bolts and vacuum lines before putting the engine cover back on. Your done now!

This was my first time doing this, it took me an hour and a half in my garage, not too bad. I recommend getting your spark plug parts from rock auto.com they have cheap parts if you're not needing them the same day!!
 

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i did this last week....its great that you dont have to follow the factory method , which is to remover the whole cowl, wipers, etc. uneccesary. Only hard thing really are the two back screws which hold the plenum and you really cant see them at all....the second time around would be easy now that I know where they are actually located..just requires some patience to get them in by feel.
 

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If you search for the Toyota part number on eBay, you get a boatload of sellers selling a six set of what looks like what you'd get at the dealer. Discovered this while googling to compare prices. Whether they are really genuine or not, who knows. But you get what you pay for is not always the case on eBay. Either that or markup at AutoZone and O'reilly and even RockAuto (for plugs) is the biggest scam, ever. Who's to say the sub $20 price tag is cost+small profit.
 

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I just did this yesterday on my '12 with 91,000 miles. Not a real challenging job (took me about 3 hours) but my Rav fought me the whole time. The electrical connectors on the coils were a real pain to disconnect and I don't think Toyota put any anti seize on the plugs as those were really difficult to remove. The rear coils were also really difficult to get out- the fronts came out easily. The throttle plate wasn't that dirty but I still cleaned it up since it was off. I've done much harder plug replacements (24 valve Ford Taurus) and I think just about anyone with time and patience can do this. Appreciate the write-ups and the video link too.
 
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