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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was looking around the net for any interesting conversation regarding the 3SFE engine and how to make it ROOR. Well here are some dudes from Toyota Nation that seem to know what he is taking about. Check it out and Sound Off, and give your opinion

It is going to be hard to push 200 hp out of a 3SFE. Believe me I was on that path and still am (just don't have a car for it right now). I am a big NA fan so I know how hard it is. As for the 3sge you are not going to prove anything with them since they are they same diameter as the 3SFE ones. If you want to get 200 hp really start with your head and your flow of the ports, then maybe see if you can get some bigger valves and do some combustion chamber work, as for the bottom end I would really just get some stronger pistons but maybe not increase the compression. You don't gain much power from higher comp so you might as well keep it at the compression you have now for a few reasons. One reason so you have a better chance of not blowing the motor. Another reason is the higher the compression the higher the octane and timing adjustment you have to do and if you're using this for the street I don't think you will be able to afford to go to an airport to pick up 120 octane gas because trust me 107 octane will probably be pushing it with the sounds of the compression you want to run. To keep on the bottom end I would lighten things up get some lighter rods made for a 3SGTE(will work on the 3SFE) and either get the crank knife edged or get a lightweight flywheel(don't get both because that is over kill and you need some weight for some rotating mass). Also go ahead and get the cylinders bored no more then 30-40 over (recommend 20 over) along with getting some stronger then stock rings. I would also suggest getting your pistons coated by swain tech to help with the heat. Although this will probably not give you any power it will help with friction and make things more efficient and last longer. Put a metal head gasket on there (you can use one from a 3SGTE). I suggest getting the TRD one and taking a layer off (there are 3 layers) and that will give you another hp or so (makes it a little bit higher compression). (I did this when I rebuilt my motor on my 88 Camry with a 3SFE). Back to the top end. See about getting your cams reground as big as you can get because in NA bigger cams are better. And get some stiffer valve springs (can use the ones from a 4age). Plus if you really want to get into it either get the Toda shimless buckets or have your bucket bores bored to fit the Toyota shimless buckets. The springs and the buckets won’t give you more power but they will lighten things up and will help give you some more RPMs to be able to rev to. Next focus on your intake system. I would suggest sending your intake manifold to extrude hone and have them hone your runners. Then find a way to get a bigger throttle body and port match the intake manifold to the throttle body. Alson with getting a nice intake system like a CAI. Next go to your exhaust and make sure it is free flowing but not to free that you don't have any backpressure. If you went with a header, no cat, 2.25" mandrel bent piping and a free flowing muffler you should be fine. With all that I would say you MIGHT be at 180 hp and that is after it gets tuned properly. And by tuned properly I mean with a stand alone computer. Also I wouldn't worry too much about your fuel system(don't get me wrong look at it and consider some things but this isn't forced induction so you don't have to worry about it as much). Maybe get a Walbro pump and definitely get a fuel pressure regulator but as for injectors and such that I wouldn't worry about the stock ones are fine. Also get oil cooler and see if you can get a cooler thermostat to help out. Trust me I know it is very hard to get power out of a 3SFE.I have been trying for a while and I respect anyone who tries to get power out of it. I am just telling you straight up from a guy who knows it will be hard to get 200 hp out of a NA 3SFE. I am trying not to get your hopes up because you will be disappointed in what you actually end up with. Also it isn't always about how much power you make but how efficient you are with what you have. Being efficient will actually make it seem like you have more power then you do and it will help your engine last longer so you are not always rebuilding it.
 
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Why go for 200hp out of a 3S-FE when you can crank out 500+hp out of a 3S-GTE instead? :twisted:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Because a lot of us don't want to go through the agony of seeing ourselves and our family without a ride for about a month, or even more. If you are single, what the hell. But in some cases [like mine]. Some of you guys speak on your behave, hay man great. Some of us can't have this luxury. As you can see married forum members just do cosmetic fixes on their RAV4. Single members get down a dirty [how much I envy you guys]. Me, well I have to wait until some member of my family take a summer trip. But, hay that is the way life is. Everyone picks what ever he or she wants in life, from life. :lol:
 
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I suppose you'll REALLY have troubles when the dog starts kicking you out of it's house... :lol:
 

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Mensajero, I hope you are making a list of how much you've spent and are going to spend on all the extras..... I know it's good to be safe but some things are just completely unnecessary.. most of the stock parts can handle what you're going to throw at it....

Just think a used 3SGTE averages around 1-1500k.... maybe even less if you get a good deal, USDM or JDM... if I was to do a swap I would go with USDM to avoid less complications.... most shops, well at least around here will drop in a motor for about $500-1000, I have a friend that would do it for $500 :D ... Also, most shops can do it within a few days....so worst case scenario you may need a rental car for a week.... anyways since the motor is supposedly a direct bolt on to the existing tranny and plug n' play with the ECU as long as you get the wiring harness to match the 3SGTE and everything, all you would end up spending is between 2-3k including new belts, and general maintenance stuff.... and would have a completely "reliable" motor since it is factory and you would have the factory ECU to match it..... that is if you use USDM stuff....

Just balance the costs and see if it's really worth spending the extras to build a motor, plus unless you have a spare motor sitting around, you will have more downtime building it then doing a swap... to think first of all you have to pull everything out to rebuild it , then send stuff to machine shops which stuff can take weeks at the machine shop, plus you are in essence doing a swap by pulling the thing out to rebuild it!!!!

Well Andrew and myself and many others on this site try to give you as much help and advice as possible... no hard feelings if we get on your case, but we're only trying to help you out and save you time, grief, and $$$$....

Take care Amigo,

DJ Sueno
 
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