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Discussion Starter #1
Some people claim to be getting 8L/100 km on the highway, but I am getting 10L/100 km.

Should I try a fuel additive? What about replacing the spark plugs?

Oil has been changed, so unsure if there's any fix.

*I have a light touch to the gas pedal and avoid using the brakes.
 

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As long as your spark plug is not over due and your air cleaner is ok then your driving habits will determine your fuel mileage. This car does poorly in the city so if most of your driving is city then you will get poor mileage. If you do all your driving on the highway then you will get good mileage.
 

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Tire pressure, good plugs, properly gapped, fresh oil and air filter, all are the basics which contribute to the best possible mileage. Remember too that these are basically smooth boxes, so as your speed rises, so does your wind resistance. Anyone getting 8.5 L/100 on the highway is going less than 120km/h.

You didn’t state your miles, but if you’re due for transmission fluid that will help too - my fluid at 110,000 km was absolutely tired and spent (LIFETIME fluid my #%€!). I changed it two weeks ago and have seen an increase of 1.0L/100 (city) measured by the dashboard (not accurate overall but ok in relation to itself). I’ve also seen a similar increase on the highway. I’ve just completed the same trip towing my trailer three weeks apart, and noticed a similar 1.0L/100 gain from the first trip, just before changing fluid. I was loaded similarly and wind/temperatures were comparable.
 

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Yes slow and steady on the highway really helps. Sometimes we do 'back road' trips and average around 90 km/hr. Fuel consumption can go down to 7.8 l/100km. On four lanes I try to keep the speed around 115, seems to average 8.2- 8.4. Cold weather, (cold air is harder to push through) headwinds, hills, loading all increase consumption noticeably. City/winter consumption averages around 9.6. Considering the size, weight and shape of the vehicle I'm happy with these numbers. Another thing you can check is the brakes, carefully touch each wheel after a drive, if one is noticeably hotter than the others, the brake might be dragging.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I am in a situation where I am in stop-and-go traffic for 10-15 km and whenever I get a clear laneway, I try to do 120+ km/h. Probably not optimal. When I was driving pure highway without construction zones, I was doing 9.5 or 9.8, can't remember...

Just changed the transmission fluid as I'm at 100,000 km.

When should the spark plugs be changed? Now?

How often should the engine air filter be changed? Is it an easy enough job for me to do myself?
 

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The factory spark plugs are rated for 160,000 km but I did notice a larger gap on mine when I checked them last summer (90,000 km). You could check and reset the gap but I’ve heard this isn’t recommended as it can apparently damage the plug. Never heard of that before but just passing along what I heard. As for air filter, the change interval is in your manual but I don’t recall it myself - I check mine regularly and change when needed. If you’re in the city or on gravel roads, it can shorten your interval. It’s easy to check and change yourself, just two clips on the airbox. Just make sure the lid is in the tabs at the back and fully seated when you close it up.
 

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Some people claim to be getting 8L/100 km on the highway, but I am getting 10L/100 km.

Should I try a fuel additive? What about replacing the spark plugs?

Oil has been changed, so unsure if there's any fix.

*I have a light touch to the gas pedal and avoid using the brakes.
8L/100KM is 29.4 miles/Gallon. Don't know anyone that gets that.

We get about 25mpg which is about 9.5L/100KM. I think this is normal. Are you sure those people do not drive a diesel.
 

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8L/100KM is 29.4 miles/Gallon. Don't know anyone that gets that.

We get about 25mpg which is about 9.5L/100KM. I think this is normal. Are you sure those people do not drive a diesel.
I’ve had n indicated 7.5 L/100 on I75 through Ohio with all 4 of us plus gear, at 70mph. However I take that with a block of salt, not just a grain. Last weekend the car indicated that I got 10.5 while towing my pop-up at 70(110). Don’t know if I believe that but I don’t track manually anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
2.5 2WD definitely can get 8L/km with 300 lbs less weight.

anyway, all told, awesome car. love the sport-tuned suspension and has good acceleration even in 2.5 version (for me).
 

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Last weekend I got only 18 mpg for the last 100 miles of my trip. 4 people. Cargo area loaded with camping gear to the ceiling. 2 small bikes on a rack hanging off the spare. 9' kayak on the roof. 50' elevation to 7500' back to 6000'. Going 70-75 mph. That is pretty good IMO.

At one point I was passing a C7 Vet, at an undisclosed speed. Told my son to look out his passenger side window. "Sick car dad". Then it became a blur in the rear view mirror.
 

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Slower is better. We have had tanks of ~30 mpg in ours. No joke. It's the stop and go and highway that drops the mpg. If you could cruise at 40-45mph, you'd get 35-40 mpg.
 

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Tire pressures in the 40-45 psi range will give you a boost. I replaced the diff/trans fluid with synthetic, removed the balance shafts, and installed a tranny cooler for another ~6mpg. Our fluid was bad, so your mileage may vary. Removing the roof bars will help. A belly pan like hybrids have will generally give 2-4 mpg. A kammback will give another 2-4 mpg. Rear wheel skirts also help with 2-4 mpg. These are ballpark numbers and will change according to driving style/speed.
 

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Tire pressures in the 40-45 psi range will give you a boost. I replaced the diff/trans fluid with synthetic, removed the balance shafts, and installed a tranny cooler for another ~6mpg. Our fluid was bad, so your mileage may vary. Removing the roof bars will help. A belly pan like hybrids have will generally give 2-4 mpg. A kammback will give another 2-4 mpg. Rear wheel skirts also help with 2-4 mpg. These are ballpark numbers and will change according to driving style/speed.
That seems very high for tire pressure. I think the door label says 32psi.
 

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Door pressures are more for comfort. Generally, door pressures will wear the shoulders of a tire and feel squishy in turns. ~40 is a sweet spot. You can do a chalk test to see what your vehicle/tire combo likes best. More rear psi for towing/hauling.
 

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Door pressures are more for comfort. Generally, door pressures will wear the shoulders of a tire and feel squishy in turns. ~40 is a sweet spot. You can do a chalk test to see what your vehicle/tire combo likes best. More rear psi for towing/hauling.
I feel like it is for wear. You are probably bulging your tires and wearing the centers. Thermo scan, tape or chalk your tires to see how it is doing.
 
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