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Hello People,

I've a blown fuse on my 2010 Rav4. The fuse box is located under the hood on drivers side. I've tried to use plier to full out the single blown fuse but it just does not come out and i'm afraid since its made out of plastic i'll just break it into pieces if i try to grab the fuse a any harder... i've tried to unscrew a screw on the left side of the fuse box which seems to be holding it but then also i wasn't able to remove anything.

How can i remove the fuse and is there any special tool i should be using to pull out any fuse from the fuse box? Please help!!

Looking forward for some answers.

thank you!
 

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If you are trying to change one of the fusible links (clear window on top) you must loosen the entire fuse box, turn it over as far as possible and the unscrew the wires attached to it from underneath.
 

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OK, I know this thread is a few years old now and the OP has already fixed the problem fuse by now (I hope), but there still isn't a suitable answer posted that a frustrated back-yard mechanic can Google and find. So here goes my response based on my personal experience. And yes, I hooked the jumper cables up wrong too.
As mentioned earlier, the 120 amp fuse is in fact bolted in on each terminal located inconveniently at the underside of the fuseable link. The fuse box has both an upper and lower cover, both must be removed. While you're at it, remove the battery, the lower portion of the air filter and the module thingy attached to the side of the fusebox. This will make disassembly of the fusebox far easier and will aid you in retrieving the bolts you're going to drop (trust me on this, it'll happen). After you've figured out which tabs to remove to drop the lower cover, you'll find that the remainder of the fusebox snaps together in sections. The section in question for the 120 amp fuse drops to the bottom from the top. Once you've found the tabs keeping it in place and have pushed this section down and out of the cluster, you will see the two bolts in question and will be able to remove them and the fuse. Replace the fuse, put the bolts back in through the eyelets on the wires and into the tabs and reassemble everything in the order you took it all apart from. Hopefully, you won't have lost any parts or have any extras let over from this operation.


I wish there was an easier way to do this, but the way they have engineered this makes any other way impossible. I'm praying for you, we're all in this together. ;^)
 

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where are the tabs holding the section ?

OK, I know this thread is a few years old now and the OP has already fixed the problem fuse by now (I hope), but there still isn't a suitable answer posted that a frustrated back-yard mechanic can Google and find. So here goes my response based on my personal experience. And yes, I hooked the jumper cables up wrong too.
As mentioned earlier, the 120 amp fuse is in fact bolted in on each terminal located inconveniently at the underside of the fuseable link. The fuse box has both an upper and lower cover, both must be removed. While you're at it, remove the battery, the lower portion of the air filter and the module thingy attached to the side of the fusebox. This will make disassembly of the fusebox far easier and will aid you in retrieving the bolts you're going to drop (trust me on this, it'll happen). After you've figured out which tabs to remove to drop the lower cover, you'll find that the remainder of the fusebox snaps together in sections. The section in question for the 120 amp fuse drops to the bottom from the top. Once you've found the tabs keeping it in place and have pushed this section down and out of the cluster, you will see the two bolts in question and will be able to remove them and the fuse. Replace the fuse, put the bolts back in through the eyelets on the wires and into the tabs and reassemble everything in the order you took it all apart from. Hopefully, you won't have lost any parts or have any extras let over from this operation.


I wish there was an easier way to do this, but the way they have engineered this makes any other way impossible. I'm praying for you, we're all in this together. ;^)
Where are the tabs and how many holding the 120 amp fuse section in place, found 2 and released them but it still wont budge!
 

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Where are the tabs and how many holding the 120 amp fuse section in place, found 2 and released them but it still wont budge!
Well, I posted this about a year and a half ago and now my remembery is a bit rusty. I believe there were more than 2 tabs and I think one of them was in the center of the fusebox cluster. Also if memory serves me correctly, you need to remove the cluster from the fenderwell in order to see all the tabs. Toyota didn't make this an easy item to service, but you already know that by now.
 

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I'm confused. My remedy was for the fuse box on the drivers side front fender well of a 2011 RAV4. What you've posted pictures of doesn't look anything like what my RAV4 has in that location.
Trailscout profile shows he has a 2003 model which will have very different looking fuse box.
 

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Battery totally drained for some reason and tried to jump it. Wrongly connected the jumper cables and blew the 120A alternator fuse. Also found couple other fuses that blew but was able to replace those easily, haven't checked the fuses under the steering column yet.

Anyways, trying to replace the 120A fuse seems to be a real pain. Searching doesn't turn up any good help, I saw several old posts but there were no pictures to actually pointed to what I needed to do exactly. I was able to decouple the bottom and top housing of the fuse box but I am stuff there. I was able to see the bolts from the bottom by turning the fuse box sideways a little but that's it. I am able to remove the C module and the three connectors on the bottom. Can anyone suggest anything?

2010 RAV4 Base(4 cyl) 4WD
 

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It has never been well documented because no one wants to update their threads after they fix it. I am guessing the fuse block can only come out in small sections. They look like some parts are joined together that needs to be pulled apart. But since you have to fix it, let us know after you replace the big fuse.
 

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I saw the post but it didn't have much info on how I can get to the fuse. From what I am reading the fuse block might/should come out but it's not clear how.
These are the only related clues from the earlier post:

4. The high-amperage fuses don't 'just pull out' like the smaller ones - you have to pull the fuse box apart to expose the hex bolts securing the fuse leads.
5. Disassembling the fuse boxes can be difficult due to tight clearance around some corners of the box. Take your time, and get some help from a friend to keep lifting the top section as you work to separate the remaining plastic clips, if you can.


If it is like other panels on the RAV, there are plastic clips usually near the corners. Using a pry tool at those tight spots and applying force, (and usually breaking or dislodging some), has been my method. Good luck.
 

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Tried again and am giving up :( It's cold outside and I have spent hours trying to get the fuse block dislodged but just can't get it to go. I put a small piece of wire to bridge the fuse and the car starts. Now the issue is, it won't shutoff even when I pull the keys. Assuming another fuse may have died under the steering column, which is also really tough to get to. Going to bring it to a relative's garage and see if he can at least fix it so I can shutdown the car.
 

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Since the weather was nice, I started looking at all the other fuses and found two more that we're burened. Replaced those and still the car won't shutoff. Also don't have power windows or locks.

Looked at 120A fuse again to see if I can make sense of it and I thought I saw what I was doing wrong. Tried again and was able to replace it. I only took one picture after I was done since I wasn't sure it was going to work. I'll try to post it later with some arrows and steps may help someone else.

Anyway, after replacing the fuse when I tried to start again, it won't turnover. It cranks but won't turnover. I took plug off the battery and it reads at 9/10 volts. Any guidance on what to look for next?
 

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Since the weather was nice, I started looking at all the other fuses and found two more that we're burened. Replaced those and still the car won't shutoff. Also don't have power windows or locks.

Looked at 120A fuse again to see if I can make sense of it and I thought I saw what I was doing wrong. Tried again and was able to replace it. I only took one picture after I was done since I wasn't sure it was going to work. I'll try to post it later with some arrows and steps may help someone else.

Anyway, after replacing the fuse when I tried to start again, it won't turnover. It cranks but won't turnover. I took plug off the battery and it reads at 9/10 volts. Any guidance on what to look for next?
You obviously have a lot of damage to the electrics, but 9 volts won't start the car. A fully charged battery will read about 12.5 volts, so I'd start with that.
 

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Step 1: Open the fuse box cover. Remove the ECU cable from the “metal plate” on the left of the fuse box. Makes things a bit easier. Remove the two bolts (10mm) shown by arrows in picture. You will have lift the ECU plate from the front bolt.

Step 2: Open the bolt (red arrow) and unclip the three(yellow arrows) wire connectors. You will then need to pull the cable up by unclipping the two(orange arrows) plastic clips and over the bolt and out of the housing. The ping outline is approximately what the cable is attached to.

Step 3: You will need to open the plastic clips from around(outside) the fuse box to separate the lower and upper bodies. There are multiple clips and will need to make sure you open all the clips and separate the two halves. You may also want to cut the zip ties with the two large cables coming(top and bottom) into the fuse box.

Step 4: Remove the “C” block(ping by unclipping the plastic clips and puling it up. There are three connectors on the bottom, disconnect those as well.

Step 5: This is the part that is not well documented anywhere. You need to remove the remaining fuse block. The red line is a “wall” that is attached to the fuse box. The fuse box is what is outlined in pink. There are several clips (not easy to see in the picture) that you will need to unclip and then push down on the box. Note, it’s not the clips with the red X.

Step 6: With all the wires it will now a bit difficult to maneuver but you will need to pull the top fuse box housing to the side and pull out the “main” fuse block. There is a 8mm bolt on the top left(yellow arrow) that needs to be opened. Unclip(red arrows) and pull up the small fuse block. You should now have the required access to open the bolts for the fuse link fuses and replace them.

***Pictures in the next post, for some reason I couldn't upload them here.
 

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Good work! The thread title, write-up and photos should replace the existing sticky in the 4.3 Mechanical section, or guess it could just be attached to it?
 

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How to replace the 120amp fuse link (2007 RAV4 I4)

Let me start this out by saying do not hook up your jumper cables wrong. Here is what I had to do to replace the 120AMP ALT fuse link.

Step 1.
Remove 2 bolts from the driver’s side fuse box (1 on the ECM mounting angle and also on the inner fender)


Step 2.
Remove the 2 wire connectors you see out in the photo. Also remove the 10MM nut that the large arrow is pointing towards. Then you can release the 2 clips that the skinny arrows are pointing towards and pull the piece of plastic up and move it off towards the side.


Step 3.
Now you need to cut zip ties to the wire harnesses entering the fuse box 1 in front and one in the back.


Step 4.
Locate and open the 8 clips around the outside of the fuse box (there are 2 on each side) no picture for this. Once you get these opened you can split the fuse box and lift the upper half some.

Step 5.
You can now open the clips that hold the block that has the fuse links and fuses in it. After you open both clips and push down the entire section will slide down and the upper half of the fuse box is able to come up much further.




Step 6.
Now you need to separate the fuse section from the fuse link section. There is one bolt (8mm if i remember correctly) and also 2 clips (red arrows in the picture) that hold this together along with a bolt on the metal bus bar at the firewall side of the assembly. After removing the bolt and opening the clips then you can slide the fuse section to get it out of the way.



Step 7.
Now you have access to the bolts on both sides of the fuse link one is a 10MM towards fender and the other is a 8MM towards the engine.



Step 8.
Get that new Fuse link in there and re assemble this in reverse.


I hope this helps I figured this out on my own before I found another post here in the RAV4 world.
 

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Finally we have the procedures to remove the main 120 amp fuse. Toyota certainly did not make it easy to replace.

In step 7 which one is the 120 amp fuse? I am guessing it is the white one since my car has the 140 amp one.
 

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Finally we have the procedures to remove the main 120 amp fuse. Toyota certainly did not make it easy to replace.

In step 7 which one is the 120 amp fuse? I am guessing it is the white one since my car has the 140 amp one.
It is the white one in the photo.
 
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